Entries from Mt. McKinley
June 24, 2016 - 10:24 pm PT
It began raining at Kahiltna Basecamp around 9PM, and that transitioned to wet snow at about 2 AM. So we didn't go for that Alpine Start we were angling toward. It was still snowing at 7:30 AM when we got up to build breakfast but then it quit and things began to improve. We'd begun to think we'd be stuck in BC for a storm day, but with clearing weather and the knowledge that the glacier was in exceptionally good condition for late June, we decided to make use of the day. As always, it took a while breaking camp and gearing up for this first push. It was awkward rigging sleds into rope travel and it was awkward for some to be on snowshoes with heavy packs. We got out of BC by 10:45 and by then the sky was mostly blue and the sun was mostly hot. After the rain, the surface was a little slushy but not all that bad for travel. We moved down the SE Fork and took a right turn at the main
Kahiltna Glacier. We had things pretty much to ourselves with only the occasional one or two European climbers at a time coming past on their way out. We made steady progress, but we weren't moving fast with the slushy conditions. We decided to quit after six hours of work, which had brought us to just about 45 minutes below the more common camp at 7800. We are out under West Kahiltna Peak. All day as we traveled, we could hear avalanches thundering down the mountainsides, and from time to time we'd look hard enough to find the clouds of ice billowing out from the snowy torrents.
We had a secure camp up by 6 and dinner by 7 PM so that all could get enough rest for another big day tomorrow. Hopefully on a frozen surface with cooler conditions.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 23, 2016 - 10:07 P.M. PDT
At 3 A.M. Mount Foraker was bathed in streaks of pink light and not a breath of wind moved through 11 Camp as we packed our packs to move up the mountain. We climbed efficiently up Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill, around a not so Windy Corner, and pulled into
14 Camp just as the heat of the day began. We found an empty fortress of expertly chopped snow blocks and after a few hours of renovation, moved into our new home. Our whole team
ate and hydrated like champions. In high spirits we're snuggling up for the night under benign skies. Tomorrow will be a rest day - haircuts, Game of Thrones, Uno, and lots of sunscreen await us.
Love from El Siete
On The Map
June 23, 2016 - 9:39 P.M. PDT
First day in our new home...The Alaska Range. We enjoyed a final night in Talkeetna and another great breakfast at the Roadhouse, but then we hustled out to the airstrip. There was no "hurry up and wait" today, more like just plain hurry up. The weather was good and the pilots were ready to go. Stan and Randy each piloted a big and beautiful Otter on skis into the
Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and spit us and our gear out onto the snow...all before 10 A.M. We spent a calm day building camp and reviewing glacier travel techniques. We'd take breaks from time to time to sip water and stare at the giant mountain walls surrounding us. Cloud cover moved in to obscure those walls by our early bedtime. Our intention is to be up at midnight for an alpine start. During the flight in, we could see that the rumors have been spot on. The lower glacier is in excellent condition with very few open crevasses. Even so, we'll go at it early when the surface has the best chance for being frozen solid.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 22, 2016 - 9:29 pm PT
We took advantage of beautiful weather and moved some supplies up to the camp at 14,000 feet. We left camp around 4:30 a.m. so we could take advantage of firm snow and cool traveling conditions. Although we are on a cold mountain, the solar radiation can be stifling later in the day. Our 3,000-foot climb up to 14k took us up several big hills with names like
Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, and Windy Corner. Once we got to 14k, we dug a giant hole and then buried our super cold weather gear, food, and some fuel under 1.5 meters of snow. The team did an amazing job all day and we were back in camp in around nine hours round-trip.
The plan for tomorrow is to take advantage of the good forecast and move our camp up to 14k where we will be knocking on the door of the upper mountain.
That's all for now! We'll be in touch from 14 camp.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 21, 2016 - 9:27 pm PT
Rest days are the best days!
Our team made the most of this one with an extended pancake breakfast, followed by several hours of heated "uno" playing. By mid afternoon though, the team was all business as we sorted group gear and provisions in preparation for our carry to
14 Camp tomorrow. It actually takes a good amount of thought splitting up expedition loads; we want to be sure we won't be carrying tons of weight on our move day, but also need to leave enough provisions at 11 Camp should we get caught in a storm cycle after the carry. But as of now, the packs are packed and we are excited to head up the mountain tomorrow! The solstice sun is shining brightly on us as we nestle in for the night. We'll catch you on the flip side!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 22, 2016 - 12:17 a.m. P.D.T.
The final RMI Expeditions
Denali trip of 2016 is kicking off. The team assembled in Anchorage today, with a few reunions and a few introductions, and made the traditional pilgrimage to Talkeetna. Bill, our Denali Overland driver, got the van out of the Anchorage rush hour traffic and out onto the open road with big views of the Chugach foothills and the Talkeetna Mountains. After a last stop for provisions in Wasilla, we cruised on up to epic views of the Alaska Range itself just before pulling into Talkeetna. We settled our climbing gear at the airplane hangar and checked in to the venerable Talkeetna Motel. Some of the team ventured out to sample local beer and appetizers, some went straight to the mattresses after long days of prep and travel. We'll dial down on pre-climb details tomorrow morning...Tonight it was unwind and get settled in the land of the midnight sun.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
June 20, 2016 - 11:11 P.M. PDT
Few things are as satisfying as watching a storm clear and being able to once again see the mountain you are trying to climb. Our stormy weather did just that, allowing us to do a rapid pack and move up to our 11,200 ft. camp.
We spent the afternoon digging in and letting our tents dry out, and everyone is looking forward to a well deserved day of
rest and acclimatization tomorrow. It was a stunningly beautiful evening up here, watching the clouds roll over Kahiltna Dome and streaks of solstice sunlight streak Mount Foraker. Fingers crossed for good weather to come.
Love from,
RMI Guide
Mike Haugen and Team El Siete
On The Map
June 19, 2016 - 8:33 pm PT
Happy Father's Day!! We love all our dads, and hope they're having a great day wherever they may be- enjoying breakfast in bed, playing golf, sunbathing on Ping Island, or beekeeping.
The weather went from bad to worse over night. We took turns every hour tightening guy lines and shoveling snow from around the tents to prevent any wind incidents or tent buryings. The crew was in great spirits as we ate our way through the day staying comfy in the tents. We had a great Ramen and veggies meal to which we added sriracha sauce and called it Mountain Pho.
The weather seems to be improving a tiny bit and we are hopeful that tomorrow will bring sunshine, rainbows, and the ability to move up to our next
camp!
Send us your best weather vibes,
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
June 18, 2016 - 8:58 pm PT
Remember how yesterday we told ya'll that despite the high clouds and other warning signs of low pressure that the weather was holding? Well, it sure isn't anymore. We delayed our departure from Camp 1 by a few hours and caught a lull that lasted long enough for us to travel to
9,600 Camp comfortably. We established camp and chilled the afternoon away as the winds and snow built. We are well fed, warm, and snuggled in for the night, hoping that the weather allows us to travel to 11,000 Camp in the morning. Only time will tell, but for now the psyche is high.
Love to everybody,
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
June 18, 2016 - 7:51 pm PT
We woke up this morning at 3:00 AM to a wet snow fall on the lower
Kahiltna Glacier. I personally stayed up all morning waiting for it to taper off. Finally at 6 we decided to push to the runway and see if we could get a flight out today. After a couple hours of walking we turned the corner and started up the Southeast Fork, aka Heartbreak Hill. At this point we heard some planes began landing and with the shear excitement of beer and burgers we made our way up to the landing strip. The weather was in and out so we didn't all get flights out immediately but throughout the early afternoon we all got off the glacier and flew back to Talkeetna. We are currently having dinner at the West Rib and preparing for a big night of celebration.
RMI Guide Geoff Schellens
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Go Robin and team! Sounds like some tough going up there and cold! It’s nice and warm and muggy here in NC. We’re all thinking about you and wishing you and the team the best of luck as you all get further along! Russell
Posted by: Russell Moore on 6/25/2016 at 5:32 pm
Hola! Superbub, Tatto, The Pake and kiddos here! Giving a shout out to the Guy Lard Boof Tard! aka Mike Waters. Wishing the best to you and your team and praying for good weather!
Posted by: Bub on 6/25/2016 at 11:25 am
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