Entries from Mt. McKinley
June 18, 2014 - 3:00pm PT
RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Lindsay Mann, Andy Hildebrand and Team have arrived in Talkeetna, AK to start their 2014 Mt. McKinley Expedition. Everything is going as planned for the team. They have completed their equipment check, met with the National Park Service and with good luck plan to fly onto the
Kahiltna Glacier tomorrow.
Follow along on the RMI Expeditions Blog for updates on the team!
June 18, 2014 - 3:42pm PT
Hello again from
14k camp! Today we are taking a well-earned break to recharge both ourselves and our electronics before hopefully heading uphill tomorrow. Yesterday we took a quick trip up to the top of the fixed lines to work the kinks out of our systems and get in some acclimatization. The crew was treated to their first views of Mt. Hunter and Mt. Foraker poking out through the clouds, and everyone performed admirably on both the ascent and descent of the fixed lines.
Looking forward, we have a tentatively favorable forecast for the next few days. We hope to make a push uphill tomorrow pending the weather, but in the meantime, we are doing our best today to rest and eat lots of food in preparation for the work ahead!
Cheers,
RMI Guide
Katie Bono & Team
June 18, 2014 - 12:24am PT
Today we got some news that a window may come our way in the next few days! We woke with the sun warming us. Granola and coffee got our day started at
14k camp. We saw fairly good weather throughout the day, yet a forecast for another big pulse of heavy snow for the near hours! Our equipment, attitudes, and stoke for the future are high and our methods of getting there are well calculated.
We wait another day hanging in there for the final push up the mountain. This season has not given many opportunities for a summit push but if we try and give it our whole effort we may just succeed! Tomorrow we will make our final preparation to stay or plan our departure Keep your eye on us and think high pressure weather.
Cheers,
RMI Guides Garrett, Tyler, Geoff and the No Troubles Team
June 17, 2014 - 11:00 pm PT
A rest day on Mt. McKinley! And well earned. The weather has been kinda funky; we woke this morning to around a foot of new snow but things steadily improved over the course of the day. Eventually, the sun broke and we enjoyed some turbo-tanning for much of the afternoon. But now the flurries are back and the flow has shifted from southeast to westerly. We briefly got a view of the tundra over Kahiltna Pass with a wall of large cumulus clouds headed our way. We are now in those clouds but they haven't hit with much wind so camp is still pretty pleasant. The gang is packing up for tomorrow's forward carry where we are hoping to get a cache in around Windy Corner, setting us up for a move to 14,000' if the weather cooperates.
We will talk to you later,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
June 17, 2014 - 7:14 pm PT
Once again the weather turned nasty overnight. We woke up to howling winds, snow, and low visibility. We waited until later in the morning and the weather began to get better. We decided to do our back carry since the weather was just good enough to travel. We made great time getting back down to our cache at 10,000'. We dug up our cache and were reunited with much of the food and gear that we will not be using until higher up on the mountain. As we were headed back up to camp, the skies cleared somewhat and the weather was downright pleasant the rest of the day.
Our plan for tomorrow is to cache much of the same food and gear up
towards 14,000'. This will take some of the weight off from our move day and help us acclimatize to higher altitudes.
Climb high and sleep low.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and "The Ocho"
On The Map
June 16, 2014 11:31pm PT
Happy Monday from all us sinners up here at 14 Camp! Today we rested and trained for our foray up the
fixed lines. After a bit of afternoon rest we then spent some time fortifying camp. It's been great up here so far and we are lucky to be surrounded by the other RMI teams. Everyone had been super hospitable and helpful getting settled in. If the weather allows, we will try a mission to the top of the fixed lines. If not, a day of rest sure wouldn't hurt.
That's all from 14!
RMI Guide
Jake Beren & Team
June 16, 2014 11:05pm PT
Well, the Rolling Stones hit the nail on the head with this one. We've sort of adopted it as our theme song of the day, as the weather continued to thwart upward movement for our team. Temperatures and wind in camp were more conducive to resting inside than hanging around outside, and the team spent most of the day relaxing in our posh, eating pancakes and sharing stories with the other climbers who stayed in camp.
While the forecast isn't the greatest we've seen, we're still hoping for a window of high pressure for a summit attempt this week. We are getting close to a go/no go date, but spirits remain high and the stoke for the experience is strong. Keep sending the positive vibes and we'll do our part if the mountain cooperates!! Cheers from a well-lived-in
14K camp,
RMI Guides
TJ,
Garrett,
Bryan and the No Troubles Crew
June 16, 2014 - 8:03 pm PT
We arrived at our
11,000' camp in the late afternoon today. Our plan was to leave early this morning to head up here, but the weather was pretty terrible. White out conditions and strong winds kept us in the tent all morning. Just after noon, the weather started to get a bit better and we got word that the conditions were better higher up. We heard a couple of planes that take people on scenic tours overhead, so our suspicions of clear skies above were confirmed. We packed up our camp in record time and headed uphill. The conditions grew steadily better the higher we went and the traveling was actually pleasant.
We arrived in camp way earlier than we predicted as our team has been very steady and strong as we travel up the mountain. We built a storm fortified camp and are just finishing up a well earned meal.
Our plan for tomorrow is to do a back carry. This means that we will go back down to dig up our 10,000' cache and bring those supplies up to our new camp. We will hopefully have the weather to complete this task early so that we can rest up for our days at higher altitudes.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and RMI Team "The Ocho"
On The Map
June 16, 2015 - 6:07 pm PT
Snow, wind, sun... Repeat. That's been the story of our day today with rapidly changing weather that seems to change every twenty or so minutes. Despite the moderate weather our team was able to descend to the cache at 9,600' in a total whiteout, retrieve it, and climb our way by Braille back to our
camp at 11. For a lot of our guys it was their first experience in not so perfect weather so it served as good training for the inevitably bad weather we'll endure higher up. Even though it was a little crummy, we made short work of the back-carry and are settling back in with a planned rest day on the docket for tomorrow.
Also wanted to make a brief shout out to all the dads out there... Sorry I forgot to mention it yesterday but out here you lose track of what day it is at all. Happy belated Father's Day!
More news as our saga unfolds,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
June 15, 2014 - 11:35 pm PT
Well, the weather keeps us down in from higher altitudes. Though a short window during this morning allowed us to venture out to one of the best view spots in all of the
Alaska Range, The Edge of The World. We took pictures and told stories as the clouds came in and out, enjoying the company and scenery. But we'd like to give some personal shout outs from each of the folks here, so keep reading:
Happy Father's Day Dad, Ken, and Frank! Love you guys! Nicole, Emma, and Baby Jake- love and miss you guys! Mom- I am warm and happy. You can sleep now :) all of my love! Aunt Marie and Uncle Kelly- thanks for the prayers! Houston Nicole, thanks for all of the comments! Wish you and Shaun were here. Have a great trip Wade! Thinking of everyone down there! -Jen
Hope all is well at home, can't wait to catch up. Hopin for good weather as the clock is ticking. Happy Father's Day a little late. The views are great as is the food. Missing my little lady a lot. See u all soon.
-jake
Hi Oz, I love you and miss you. So happy and proud to be your father. See you soon.
On this Father. Day at camp 14 I'm thinking of my father. When you were alive. you would say you didn't ever want to know when I climb McKinley. I'm so glad that you are my gaurding angel on this trip. Dave Johnson
Happy father's Dad and Tommy! To all the other dads in my family! Love you all. Ty
Happy Father's Day dad! Thinking of you from a frosty 14 camp, hope you're enjoying a sultry southern Sunday! Love, Garrett
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens & Bryan Hendrick
On The Map
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Andy, hoping you have good weather and snow conditions for your epic climb! We will be following you on your blog. Get er done!!
Posted by: Jerry Hildebrand on 6/20/2014 at 9:33 am
Hope you guys have a safe trip to the glacier have a great climb!
peter
Posted by: Peter Williamson on 6/19/2014 at 10:11 am
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