Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Awaits a Perfect Weather Window

June 14, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Sunday June 14th 12:00 a.m. PT The weather has turned and things in the Alaska Range are looking up. All day we lounged under blue skies and made our final gear decisions. It appears from the forecast that tomorrow and Monday will be our best opportunity to climb. We anticipate leaving in the morning and starting a 72-hour cycle of nearly continuous movement, punctuated with some periods of sleep, that will hopefully take us to the top and all the way back to our plane ride to Talkeetna. RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Kim- in the immortal words of Diana Ross “way to go Kim & the rest of your group”!! Oops I mean, “ain’t no mountain high enough”- good luck on the big climb!!
Michael

Posted by: Michael on 6/14/2015 at 3:15 pm

Kimapotamus- exciting news about your trip!!! Good luck with the big climb-you will totally rock-it!!!!
Lora

Posted by: Lora on 6/14/2015 at 3:11 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Half Day Cache Day

June 14, 2015

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Saturday June 13th 11:15 pm PT In days of yore when men where men and battles raged across the lands and glory rose in the mountains, there came upon the mountaineering stage a great climbing team called "el siete". This fellowship of dynamic professionals hailed from all corners of the great U.S. of A. and even called on brethren from distant Norwegian lands to converge here below "Ski Hill" at Camp One on Denali (which is French for "The Nali"). The determined team worked to achieve the glory of their pursuit by trudging upward to 10,000 feet to strategically deposit in their mountain bank expedition supplies for safe keeping. Nestled in their beds the great team awaits a strong move in the wee hours of the morning to 9,600 feet. Stay tuned for more adventures of the soon to be mountaineering legends know as "el siete." Stay classy lower 48 - and Norway! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Welcomed to the Neighborhood at 14K

June 13, 2015

Posted by: Jake Beren, Christina Dale, Andrew Kiefer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday June 13th 7:15 pm PT Today has been fantastic. We left 11 Camp early this morning and enjoyed perfect conditions and weather on our way up to 14 Camp. The team climbed very well and we were again treated to supreme hospitality by the other RMI teams at 14 Camp. Plenty of water and some pre-made tent platforms will make us soft if we aren't careful. Now for some well-deserved rest before dinner. Tomorrow we will handle some training and wish our friends good luck as they move into position for their time in the stratosphere. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Kevin, wishing you luck with your summit, and hoping the weather stays clear and beautiful, for tons of views, pictures and memories. Mom and Dad Larson

Posted by: warren larson on 6/18/2015 at 5:21 pm

Looks like an awesome time. Sure does look different from the bottom of the mountain to what you are seeing.

Posted by: Tammy Gjerde on 6/14/2015 at 8:03 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Ready to Move

June 13, 2015

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 13, 2015 4:31pm PST The final day of waiting and preparation... We hope! Today is a calm and sunny day at 14 camp, although the small plumes of snow still sail above us on the West Buttress ridge and upper mountain. With groups of climbers from around the world stacking up over the last week of poor weather, the headwall and fixed lines were crawling with dozens of folks on the move -- Making for one full boat on the route today. Our decision to stall and let the hoards move on and winds continue to die down will hopefully give us a smooth and ultimately safer move. We want to work smarter not harder and like a raven sailing on the afternoon thermals give our team the best and smoothest climb we at RMI can offer. Thank you all for the comments, wish us luck and we hope to check in from high camp tomorrow! Cheers! RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team

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Ken, you guys are so close! Sounds like you have a. Dry smart guide and a great team. I know you are all about working smarter and not harder. We learn a lot together at work, i can’t wait to all of the life lessons and self discover you must be experiencing on this trip. Praying for clear ski so you and your team can work smart and make it to the top.

Posted by: Dennis Canevari on 6/13/2015 at 9:40 pm

D.G., Prayers for success and safety to all. Ted has his fingers crossed. Love you, Mom

Posted by: Caroline Clayton on 6/13/2015 at 7:46 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Reach Camp 1

June 13, 2015

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Friday June 12th 11:25 pm PT Upon our late arrival at Base Camp the weather started turning nasty, so we set up tents and burrowed into our sleeping bags. Lo and behold, upon awakening the skies had cleared and the mountain beckoned! We broke camp and descended the Southeast Fork Kahiltna to the Main Fork, turned up-glacier and headed toward Camp 1. The glacier route is in prime condition and we reached our camp in several hours taking in the spectacular mountain views around us. Everyone in the team is doing great and looking forward to our next objective, Camp ll. More later! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Checks in From 14K Camp

June 13, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Friday June 12th 10:30 pm PT A blog post brought to you by Kim, Pete and Phillip: We awoke to clear blue skies and stellar views of the Alaska Range. It was followed by an exquisite breakfast of fluffy blueberry and granola pancakes, topped with a wild cherry compote. Then we made a six-feet deep hole and went to "The Edge of the World". Weather is looking better and we are hopeful that we will move up the mountain this weekend. We are looking forward to moving higher up on the mountain, since we are all rested up having slept more in the past few nights than we have in the last month. Clearly we are enjoying the mountain lifestyle, but ready for the next challenges. Viele Grüße vom Berg, cheers The Gang P.S. Hi Sophia! XO love Aunt Kim

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Glad all is going well. We had dinner with the family tonight. We all are very excited for you.
Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: MaryAnn and Arthur on 6/13/2015 at 6:47 pm

Hi Aunt Kim!!! Thanks for giving me a shout-out on the mountain- now I’m famous!! Good Luck with your big climb!!!
Xoxoxo
Sophia
PS I wouldn’t want to be with a bunch of boys- they may have cooties!

Posted by: Sophia Rose on 6/13/2015 at 3:29 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Build Their Fortress

June 13, 2015

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Friday June 12th 10:10 pm PT Fortress at 14k on Mount McKinley! Today was a clear day but the winds raged as the high pressure slowly comes our way! The fortress of snow-block walls now fully encloses our tents and cook house with an entry straight from stone hedge! A giant block caps the archway leading into our dojo! The wind still whips as plumes of blowing snow briefly create little to no visibility in camp. A blue bird day that is hampered by a ground blizzard. If you ask me this is what the experience of Denali is all about. In the next few days the wind will likely subside and crystal clear skies, warm and breathless air will remain. Fingers crossed we will get our perfect day to climb and stand atop the highest point in North America. Till then we'll hang low in our tents basking in our BO stir fry;). RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Arrive at Base Camp

June 12, 2015

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

After some long trips from our respective homes, our crew arrived in Anchorage and formed the super team, "El Siete" (RMI Team Seven). We made the journey to Talkeetna, AK the day before yesterday and started to prepare for our flight onto the mountain. We spent yesterday packing in the hanger. The weather did not seem to be on our side and the probability of us flying into base camp on time seemed very small. We figured we would be joining all of the other teams that had been doing the "Talkeetna Wait" for days. We woke up today anticipating that we would not fly this morning and we were not wrong. After a good breakfast, lunch, and a few wanders around town, we planned on getting a pizza and watching the NBA finals. As soon as the crew started to get into the game, the flight service called and told us there was a small window for us to fly. So here we are on the glacier ready to climb the big one. If you did not get a call from us before we left, we were in a mad rush and we will get back to you after we summit! RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team

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Keep the pictures coming. Glad all is going well.
Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: MaryAnn and Arthur on 6/14/2015 at 11:47 am

Not sure first e-mail got to you. Stay warm, stay safe and have a great time
Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: MaryAnn and Arthur on 6/13/2015 at 6:57 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Carry to 14’ Camp

June 12, 2015

Posted by: Jake Beren, Christina Dale, Andrew Kiefer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

June 11, 2015 11:17pm PST What a day! We woke early to begin the day's nowcasting (real time weather) to see if it was workable to put a cache higher on the mountain. Motorcycle Hill stayed more or less visible throughout breakfast, so we decided to give it a shot. As we climbed higher the weather smiled upon us. Little wind and some good reports from our friends up at 14 Camp and we just kept on trucking. Arriving at 14 Camp was a real treat. Hugs from the other RMI teams as well as a pre dug cache hole made for a solid foray to our future home. Thanks again guys! Now back down in camp at 11, we are about to sleep. Tomorrow we plan to rest. With any luck our forecast for improving conditions (thanks guys) verifies and we hope to move higher soon. June 12, 2015 3:52pm PST Ahhhh. It has been a great day today. So far we have had a leisurely brunch followed by some excellent chatting in our kitchen tent. Then some spice sampling followed by headstand yoga practicing. Now the team is napping and reading. The weather has been quite pleasant here in camp, but sure looked windy up high this morning. All in all a perfect day to sit tight and recover after a few big days of climbing. With any luck Denali will let us up a little higher tomorrow. If so, we'll be ready. RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Here’s hoping the great weather continues—sounds like a wonderful experience although I’m not sure about “headstand yoga”? Bill—I know she’s so much smaller but seeing Rainier in the sun down here reminds us of your adventure up there.

Posted by: Wolf & Leilani on 6/13/2015 at 3:25 pm

Really great work Meredith and the whole team! I’m so in awe of this epic effort being put forth. Miss you back home but I love picturing you rockin’ in out up there.
Keep up the great job!

Posted by: Geoff on 6/13/2015 at 1:20 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Train at 14,000’

June 12, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 11, 2015 10:02pm With unsettled weather upon us we slept in this morning had a nice brunch and spent the afternoon reviewing some technical skills. We discussed some of the techniques we will use and practiced removing and stowing various types of gear as we climb. The team is anxious to get climbing but there is nothing we can do until the weather improves. For now we are enjoying long meals, funny stories, and some good naps. That's all for now. Thanks for following along and keep your fingers crossed for some good weather up here on Denali. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Kim & Co.!!! I am no Al Roker but surely things must be getting better in your neck of the woods!!! Fingers crossed that the snow is done for the time being!!! Btw Sophia is auditioning for the role of Flounder on Monday (Ariel’s sidekick)...
Hugs &kisses;
Ron the Potato, Jerome, Adam Richman, Mark Klein & me

Posted by: Lora on 6/12/2015 at 7:30 pm

Hi Kim, I hope there is a dramatic improvement in the weather so that you & the team can move upward! Hopefully, tomorrow (Saturday) will be the “big’ day where the snow will stop,the sun will shine & the winds will be calm!!! I am sending positive weather vibes your way! Travel safe & stay well! Love, Dad

Posted by: SHEL on 6/12/2015 at 4:58 pm

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Awaits a Perfect Weather Window

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Half Day Cache Day

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Welcomed to the Neighborhood at 14K

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Ready to Move

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Reach Camp 1

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Checks in From 14K Camp

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Build Their Fortress

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Arrive at Base Camp

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Carry to 14’ Camp

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Train at 14,000’

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