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Entries from North Cascades


Shuksan Seminar: Frank & Team Finish Their Week of Training

Hello to everyone following the Mt. Shuksan Seminar. Tonight we are checking in from the North Cascades logging town of Sedro-Woolley, at the foot of Mt. Shuksan. Today was meant to be our summit attempt, but instead we awoke to pelting rain on our tents, similar to the weather we have been struggling with for the last four days. After having a group meeting and considering the options, we decided as a group to forego our summit bid in favor of descending to focus on training tomorrow. The weather forecast called for improving skies, but that has been the case each day and yet it continued to rain. We opted to find a dry place down here to ensure that we we able to finish all the training, rather then take the gamble on climbing and sit in a tent for another day. A hard decision to make, but one that we feel was right. Thanks for following along this week. Best, RMI Guides Eric Frank, Solveig Waterfall, Jenny Konway and the RMI Shuksan Seminar crew
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Shuksan Seminar: Frank & Team Prepared for Summit Bid in the Morning

Hello, this is RMI Guide Jenny Konway calling in from the low camp on Mount Shuksan here with the Shuksan Seminar. We had a great morning of training today out in the fog. It cleared up a little bit, and we saw some blue sky. This afternoon we attempted to go out and have some additional training, but got some heavy rain so we all retreated to our tents and had a good dinner. We are tucked in for the evening, hoping that the clouds we'll part in the morning and have a shot at the summit. So we're keeping our fingers crossed for nice weather. That's it for now. Thanks for following along. Have a good night. RMI Guide Jenny Konway


RMI Guide Jenny Konway called in from the Mount Shuksan Seminar.

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Mt. Shuksan: Eric Frank & Team Arrive at Camp

Hey, This is RMI Guide Eric Frank calling from the south side of Mt. Shuksan on a week long skills seminar. Just wanted to let everyone know that we are in our camp for the night had a great first day. We made it up just to the edge of tree line and it started to rain, so we made camp here. Everyone's doing well. Tomorrow Weather permitting we're hoping to go up to the glacier and do a little training for the day. Wish us luck and thanks for following along!


Eric Frank & Team Checking in from Shuksan Seminar.

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North Cascades: Eric Frank and Team Summit Mt. Goode

Good morning! This is RMI Guide Eric Frank calling from Goat Creek Camp right in the heart of the North Cascades National Park. This is the final day of our climb of Mt. Goode. We couldn't get a signal to call out last night, so we're just checking in this morning. Yesterday we actually woke up to a fair bit of snow on the rocks for our final 5 pitches to the top of Mt. Goode. We had a pretty entertaining time climbing up through mid 5th last climbing with snow on it. We were able to rappel off the the opposite side of the mountain drop down and walk about 10 miles out to this camp. Today we have 20 beautiful miles on the Pacific Crest Trail. We will be out this evening and touch base then. Take Care!


Eric Frank Calling in from Goat Creek Camp - Mount Goode

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Fisher Chimneys: Blais and Team are Shut Down by Weather

Our team got shut down by weather on our summit push, but that didn't stop us from having an amazing trip. The climbing and views on our way to high camp below the Upper Curtis glacier were worth the hard push getting there. The Fisher Chimneys is an incredible route- alpine rock, a pitch of easy ice climbing, and outstanding views of Mount Baker and the Curtis glacier make it a classic! We got out last night and the team celebrated a great, safe and fun trip! Until next year Washington. RMI Guide Zeb Blais and Team
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North Cascades: Eric Frank Calls in from Mt. Goode

Hey, this is Eric Frank calling from high up on the Northeast Buttress of Mt. Goode here in the North Cascades. We are just getting ready to lay down for the night. It's been raining off and on for about the last two hours, but fortunately we're tucked in on a little ledge about 3,000 feet above the glacier. That puts us maybe 80% of the way up the route. Tomorrow morning, hopefully if it's not raining too hard, we should be able to climb up and over and begin our descent down. We're doing well. Had a nice dinner, and we're just floating around in the cloud up here. Take care. Hope everyone has a good night. RMI Guide Eric Frank


RMI Guide Eric Frank calls in from Mt. Goode in the North Cascades.

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Fisher Chimneys: Blais & Team Reach High Camp on Mt. Shuksan

Our team has made it to high camp after a great day of climbing. We're perched just below the Upper Curtis Glacier with outstanding views of Mt. Baker and the higher reaches of our climbing route, the Fisher Chimneys. We're hoping the fair weather lasts long enough to give is a shot at the summit. Despite the gloomy forecast, the team is upbeat and fired up from an exciting day making our way through the Chimneys and up Winney's Slide. The Slide is nearly a full pitch of ice at this point and made for a bit of fun right before camp. We'll check in soon. Wish us luck with the weather! RMI Guides Zeb Blais, Steve Gately and team
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Mt. Baker: Blais & Team Return to Camp

This is Zeb Blais and team checking in from Mount Baker. We had a pretty tough day today. We started out looking at the North Ridge Route. Due to route difficulties and an impending poor weather forecast, we decided to bail on climbing that route. We shifted our focus to the Coleman-Deming and after a long day of climbing, we got back to camp just a few minutes ago. It was a great climb and we only got rained on for a few minutes. We are back in our tents now waiting out some weather. Our plan is to pack up and head out tomorrow morning. That's all for now. RMI Guide Zeb Blais


RMI Guide Zeb Blais calls in from Mt. Baker.

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OK, so you adjusted to weather conditions; I like that! Keep on trekking boys (on your nature bird walk!)!

Posted by: Patti on 8/28/2016 at 7:23 pm


Mt. Baker: Blais & Team Check In from Hogsback Camp

This is Zeb Blais and team checking in from our first camp on Mount Baker. We're gearing up to do a little training this afternoon, and then tuck in early to get to bed. We will make our summit push on the North Ridge tomorrow. We're crossing our fingers, hoping that the weather is going to hold out for us. If not, we have some great fall back plans, but until then we're doing some training and resting up. RMI Guide Zeb Blais


RMI Guide Zeb Blais calls in from Hogsback Camp, Mt. Baker.

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Hope you all had an amazing adventure!

Posted by: Lilli and John on 8/28/2016 at 10:55 am

So excited for you guys… hit that summit and BANG! (In the words of Jay Wright!)

Posted by: Megan on 8/28/2016 at 10:52 am


North Cascades: Ben Liken Leads His Team to the Top of Sahale Peak

Over the past four days the Sahale summit team enjoyed perfect weather and excellent climbing in the North Cascades National Park. As we ascended out of the forest on day one the views kept getting better and better until we stopped to set up our base camp at 5,300 feet. Looking up at the spectacular Boston Basin the team was excited to go up high over the next few days. Day 2 was a training day at the toe of the Quien Sabe Glacier; filled with efficiency techniques, crevasse safety, and rock climbing. After a full day of training we went to bed early to rest up for a summit attempt on the classic peak. Summit day went flawlessly and we found ourselves on top at 10:30 am after some really fun glacier and rock climbing sections. Here are a few shots from the trip. Enjoy! RMI Guide Ben Liken
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Ben - fix the links under the photos! I click on them and they take me to a Mt. Denali expedition.

Posted by: Malcolm Butler on 8/17/2016 at 9:23 pm

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