Breakfast came early this morning at the BW Majestic Hotel, located in the heart of the world's second largest city. By 7 am the group was assembled on the Majestic's top floor where the restaurant is located and to our surprise, we could clearly make out the glaciated peak of Ixta far out to the south. This was indeed confirmation that Mexico really does possess snow and ice. A fact most North Americans are unaware of. With our excitement clearly building we loaded the waiting van and headed straight to- oh ya! Wal Mart. Yup, glaciers and Wal Mart, these go hand in hand on successful mountain climbing trips. After we saved a bunch of pesos on today's everyday low price, we gunned it to La Malinche where we moved promptly into our dorm style cabanas and motivated for our first acclimating hike up the flanks of La Malinche itself. With the summit laying a hop skip and jump out of our reach, the team took its final rest break at 13,700 feet and quickly descended. Nothing better to toughen one up! We are now off to dinner and preparations for tomorrow's move to Ixta. Team Orizaba out.
RMI Guides JJ Justman & Adam Knoff
The rain was borderline torrential in Quito last night, but as we got closer to our acclimatization hike, it let up for us. We had a great hike today, topping out on Cerro Fuya Fuya at over 14,000 feet! The team again did a great job climbing up this mountain and making the most of our time up high. Tomorrow we will head to Otovalo and do a little exploration of the market town. Afterwards it's up to the Cayambe hut! So far so good down here.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Union Glacier camp was a busy place this morning. There were snowcat sledge trains and big-wheeled vans and tracked vehicles and snow machines of every sort and size zipping from A to B, plowing things flat, and simply hauling freight and people. Fuel drums were being fed to the Twin Otters and names were being written on luggage tags. The ALE staff were in overdrive and sixty outbound climbers and Antarctic enthusiasts were pleased, mellow and smiling. It was "Ilyushin Day".... Out with the old and in with the new on a grand scale.
My successful climbing team packed their bags and knocked their tents down in about five minutes... Ready to go home but also a little sad to be leaving this cold paradise. Around 1:30 PM, the big four engine Russian jet touched down with a great roar of reversed thrust out on the ice runway. My old gang got in one big offroad van with Seth Waterfall and headed for the plane and Punta. I'd shaken their hands and advised them to have a heck of a victory feast in town. They'd earned it. I stood for a while watching all the action and before long another big offroad van pulled up with my new climbing team.
Nicole, Brian, Joe and Bart were snapping pictures in all directions and smiling broadly. We got acquainted and oriented, waited a bit and then hurried up for a flight to Mount Vinson. By then it was dinner time and the Union folk felt bad about kicking us out of camp without a big feed, but clouds were closing in and we needed to get to the mountain. Mission accomplished (with a big pan full of hot pigs-in-a-blanket for inflight food) despite the encroaching storm, there were still a few thousand peaks to be seen out the windows of our ski plane. We landed at Vinson Basecamp around 8 PM and built our tents in our new home. My climbers haven't yet seen their mountain as it is cloaked in mist and light falling snow, but they will see plenty of the big hill, soon enough.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The Four Day Summit Climb September 21 - 24 is our last Summit climb of the 2012 season. This morning they reached the crater rim of Mt. Rainier just before 8:30 a.m. RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Leon Davis reported clear skies above 13,000' with light winds. The teams will spend a bit of time on top before starting their descent to Camp Muir. After a short break to re-pack their gear and re-fuel, they will continue down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing the teams this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulation to today's teams!
Hey RMI, this is Linden Mallory calling from the Everest Base Camp Trek. I am calling from Everest Base Camp. We weren't able to push out photos and a written dispatch today so I'm calling from the SAT phone instead. Just to let you all know that we are all doing well and made it to Base Camp and everyone is so happy to be here. Keep your eye out for the dispatch tomorrow. We'll do our best to get it out if conditions allow. Besides that the weather's gorgeous and we are looking for to spending some time up here. Take care.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Linden Mallory and team arrive at Everest Base Camp.
Wow!!! What an accomplishment! I am proud just to know all of you. It’s great to see all the hard work and planning pay off.
Posted by: Carter Sr. on 3/26/2012 at 7:33 am
Way to go girls!! Following your trip through the blogs has been amazing. Just got back from a walk in the pollen soaked air - tried to imagine I was breathing the clear air you all are, no matter how thin, and seeing your gorgeous views. Enjoy every moment, you all are truly blessed. We are all cheering for you back home!
After a quick breakfast in the Hotel Geneve, we said goodbye to the bustling streets of La Zona Rosa at 07:40 to get some much needed time to acclimatize in preparation for the objectives that lie ahead. We were greeted with sunny skies and mild morning weather on our hike of La Malinche which tops out at 14,640. The trail was in good shape and feral dogs were good company at times. After moving into our Cabana and just missing the evening thunder and rain, we are on our way to enjoy an nice family-style meal of carne asada, complimented with hot sizzling veggies and queso to end a great first day.
RMI Guide Peter Whittaker and his entire climbing team stood on the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Peter reported an excellent climbing route and great conditions on the mountain. The team has started their descent and will be celebrating here at Ashford Basecamp this afternoon.
Congratulations Team!
Tuesday, June 4, 2013
We were excited this morning as we awoke to a windless day which followed an equally windless night, a far cry from our first night here. With the sun just lightly obscured by some high clouds things looked reasonable for a summit bid. It was even relatively warm at camp, though our team mate from the South might well disagree with that assessment.
We knew today was by no means a sure thing, and went into it with our eyes wide open. And, as you might have guessed by now, we did not tag the summit today. But we did get to Denali Pass, 18,400', which was a huge accomplishment! Unfortunately, the weather up over the summit was not particularly inviting, and we had a light but annoyingly cold wind at the Pass where we are obliged to take a break after over two hours of climbing.
So, we spun it. But we all got so much out of it. The route had quite a bit of snow on it so it was good to kick in the trail. Also, just doing that first part of the route will help everyone the next time we go up it. And, that could well be tomorrow.
Some people suggest that tomorrow might be the nicest day of the period. We're definitely ready for a return to beautiful blue skies, even though the weather forecast reads: more of the same, that is low pressure bringing with it snow and clouds.
The team is ready to go back up tomorrow.
And so am I!
RMI Guides Brent, Logan and Leah
Congratulations Gerald and to the entire team! Hope you enjoyed the view from the sumitt. Safe travels down!
miss ya!
P.S. Aliki passed the being “faithful” test we talked about while you were gone ;)
Posted by: john azua on 6/6/2013 at 5:18 am
Gerald, well it is tomorrow night here (June 5) and the suspense is just too much! Whatever the outcome of the day just know everyone back home is wishing you and your team all the best. You HAVE gone in the direction of your dreams and you most definitely are living the life you imagined!! So, so, proud. Stay safe, stay focused and climb strong. Love and miss you. Aliki, Riley & Charlotte
The day is coming to a close and things are back the way they were at the start of the trip. Our tents are laying here and our sleeping bags in the thick, moist air. It's tough to imagine that we were at 20,320 feet just the day before yesterday.
Thank you for all of your continued support as we took on Denali successfully. I realize how much it took both on the mountain and at home. Again, thank you. The amateur summiteer.
Thanks to all who continue to support my crazy adventures!! Your positive vibes and supportive thoughts mean more than you'll ever know! I return from the highest peak in North America simultaneously proud and humbled!! Michael C
Thanks to my family and friends and especially my wonderful wife Megan for supporting me in this adventure. It is difficult to describe the feeling of humbleness inspired by the the grandeur, majesty and (not least of all) weather of the Alaska Range. The seasoned judgment of TJ, Eric and Logan truly kept us alive and (mostly) comfortable. I cannot thank them enough. MJB
Thanks to all the friends and family for the awesome support! Despite the fact I was unable to make the summit the trip was amazing and will certainly be unforgettable. Much appreciation goes to the best guides anywhere for their judgement. "climbing mountains ain't easy"... The mountain won this time but I'll be back again! CPL
Thanks to all my family, friends, and business associate for supporting my " habit". The summit of North America is an amazing place. Our RMI guides are the best - Tyler, Eric and Logan !!!!
LWS
Belle expedition. Merci RMI. Merci a tous pour vos blog.
N
Now that the day is coming to a close, things are looking eerily similar to the way they did before we left. Tents and gear have been dried. Gear is slightly dirtier, but once again prepared for air travel. It would seem to the unknowing observer, that nothing has happened other than a few mild sunburns.
As the warm rain arrives in Talkeetna, the group runs for cover indoors. It's nice to be dry when it rains and warm when it's cold outside without to much effort. That said, there was something nice about even the coldest days on the mountain. As guides, we hope out clients feel the same way. Like proud parents, we have enjoyed the time we spent with the team as they grew. We have seen the group grow together and grow as individuals. We hope that this growth will have some relevance even in the dry and warm front country.
Thanks to our clients for their time, energy, patience and passion. The guide team hopes to work together and with members of our 2012 Denali trip soon. Weather this trip was the first big expedition or the last, we hope team members will keep trying new things, keep climbing mountains, or at least stay in touch.
The summit was great, but the team was better. Thanks guys,
RMI GuidesTyler Jones, Eric Frank and Logan Randolph
Hey there, it's, Billy calling just wanted to give you guys an update and let you know where the crew is. After our summit day we descended from 17 down to the 14 camp and ended up spending the night there. Then got an early this morning and made the march all the way to base camp. Right now, everybody is sitting pretty at Kahiltna base. We have set up the tents. It is kind of socked in and cloudy so we are just hoping for planes at some point tomorrow morning. Forecast is kind of iffy so,we’ll see. We may be sitting here for a couple of days. But everyone is down safe and sound. So, will call and check in again one more time when we get back to town and off the mountain.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
RMI Guide Billy Nugent checks in from Kahiltna Base Camp.
Gibert:
I want to congratulate you and your team on successfully summitting Mount McKinley. No matter what hemisphere you are adventuring ... you seem to make it all the way to the top. Congratulations! What’s next?!
Fred Klingbeil
Aconcaqua (January 2012)
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 6/6/2012 at 11:22 am
Hi- Bran and team..
U must have had been so thrilled when u reach the summit!! I know I was so thrilled and so was Dad, I think I txted and called everyone.. Now it time for u and the team to celebrate!!! Thanks Bill Nugent, u r a awesome Guide..
Love Mom & Dad
Thanks for the video. Cute dogs. Do they live up there or someone bring them with?
Posted by: Kris on 3/4/2013 at 6:03 pm
Hey team Orizaba! Bill’s wife here. Glad to hear it’s going well. Good luck on Ixta! I teach 4th graders and am showing my class your blogs.
Posted by: Kris Westberg on 3/4/2013 at 10:19 am
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