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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Turn Below the Summit

Wednesday, June 26th, 2013 We woke up around 7:30 with clear skies and no winds. We set off towards the summit with all of the crew feeling great. We experienced a little bit of wind and clouds at Denali Pass, but that is pretty normal. The climb was going smoothly and the weather was about as perfect as you can get. We were about 150 feet below the summit ridge when the clouds came in and blocked out our sun. All of a sudden we heard a crack of thunder and all of the metal around us began to buzz. We hightailed it down to a depression in a feature called the football field where things seemed to be calm. By calm, I mean a whiteout snowstorm came out of nowhere! We hunkered down and waited to see if things would settle down. When we were certain they would not, we worked our way down the mountain with GPS and some wands that mark the trail. After a fourteen hour climbing day, our whole team is back in camp happy, healthy, and fed having come a few hundred feet short of the summit but without a permanent stutter from electrocution! Our plan is to rest tomorrow and perhaps give the summit another go in the next few days. We will see. Goodnight! RMI McKinley Summit Team 6


RMI Guide Mike Haugen calls in from 17 camp after their summit attempt.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I’m shocked (seriously, no pun intended) to hear about the storm. SO close.  You are all truly amazing and great to hear Mike’s voice.  Cheering you on, thinking about you all, KAC.

Posted by: Kconstantine on 6/27/2013 at 8:02 pm

there will be an other opportunity am sure! glad you are all ok .rest well.lots of love to Lance

Posted by: elisabeth on 6/27/2013 at 5:18 pm


Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Enjoy Christmas Duck in May

Wednesday, May 29, 2013 Today we awoke to another beautiful day at 14,000 camp on Denali. Feeling better about the altitude we cruised down to our cache and back in no time. A cloud rolled in and brought light snow this afternoon which has surprisingly been a welcome change to the hot temps and our sunburned lips from these past few days. We were able to do a little practice with fixed lines in preparation for the real deal in a couple days. Everyone did great, even with monster lobster gloves on! Tonight, Gerald treated us to duck burritos, with duck that came all the way from New Jersey, also a welcome change then to "chicken", resembling tuna from a bag. A shout out to Emma Rose, happy birthday! RMI Guides Leah, Logan, and Brent

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Is that why you got such a big snow blower?

Posted by: Charles on 6/5/2013 at 2:27 pm

Gerald you continue to amaze us!  Stay safe and enjoy the climb

Posted by: eileen & mike meehan on 6/3/2013 at 3:15 am


Mt. McKinley Expedition: Beren & Team at 11,000’

Hello everyone. It’s Jake checking in from Camp 3 at 11,000’ on Mt McKinley. Everyone in our party is strong and doing great, the weather is cooperating and we’re thoroughly enjoying expedition life in the Alaska Range. Our plan is to back-carry tomorrow and pick up our cache at 9,500’, then return to camp at 11,000’ for some R&R. The day after tomorrow we’ll climb ‘Motorcycle Hill’ and place a cache in the vicinity of Windy Corner (13,300’), descend, and once again camp at 11,000’. Camp here will be home for the next two nights, then weather permitting we’ll move up to 14,200’ and establish Camp 4. But we don’t want to get too far ahead of ourselves. So long for now. RMI Guide Jake Beren
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Jake,
Good on ya, missed you @ Muir on june 11th ran into Logan and Tim they said you were up working the DC Route. We were up again earning some turns on the Stokes. Climb High , Be safe. talk to ya soon . Chao Randy

Posted by: Randy May on 6/15/2011 at 3:12 pm

Hey Baz,

We are so glad to hear all is going well for you and the team. We are definitely thinking of you here in TOYLAND as ma likes to call it ha :) Keep positive and stay strong!! Lots of Love from Pearse & Kathryn

Posted by: pearse & Kat Mc Kiernan on 6/14/2011 at 8:49 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Make Difficult Decision to Descend

Wednesday, May 31, 2023 - 10:50 pm PT

Hello trusty readers,

Sorry for the gap in dispatches. Things got a little busy with logistics. We took two rest days at 14,000' Camp figuring out weather and logistics on who wanted to continue up and who wanted to go down. With weather being finicky most of the team decided to focus on getting off the mountain. For those that desired uphill movement it was the weather we needed to figure out. After many ominous forecast with only small windows of calm we decided our best option was to stay together as a team and make our way down the mountain. Its always a hard decision to go down, especially when you still have time. But sometimes, the cards just aren't in your favor. It's been a great trip even without the summit. We have made it back to 11,000' Camp and are taking a quick nap before we make our way to the airstrip. Tomorrow is suppose to be the best weather day so figures crossed we make it off the glacier.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Hannah and Team,
That is a bummer but like you have always said, “its about the experience!”

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/2/2023 at 4:01 am

To go as far as all the teams went is to say they made it to the top…like many who expressed…thank you for your wisdom in playing it safe. So impressed. Bethany ...you did a spectacular display of strength and determination and so many have expressed how inspired they are of your accomplishments. Looking forward to hearing details.
Love M❤M

Posted by: Jan L. Gray on 6/1/2023 at 2:25 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Rester Day

Friday, June 28, 2019 - 8:01 PM PT The 2nd rest/weather/waiting day was even restier than the first. The team is hanging in there and we really hope to head uphill tomorrow. Here are the individual team members best ways to spend their rest days: Ian - eat, sleep, and be merry Wayne - napping! Zach - reading Kerry - texting colleagues about weather forecast and thinking of family! Meghan - Hosting a 14k ft charcuterie and Gummi bear party outside my tent (eat it now or have to carry it down later). Was a hit! Ann - building a snowman, checking return dates of caches around the camp, thinking if I have enough probiotics to handle the spicy dinners

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Side salad and her meat platters. When is she sharing the wine!?!? Go guys, go!

Posted by: Shannon Henn on 6/30/2019 at 12:32 am

Rest while you can. Cool tent photo! Step safe

Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/29/2019 at 9:54 pm


Denali Expedition: Haugen and Team Visit the Edge of the World

Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 9:45 PM PT Not much to report from 14k. We woke up late, ate breakfast burritos for brunch, and relaxed. We did stretch out our legs and walk out to an area called the Edge of the World. As suggested, the Edge of the World is a huge drop of that overlooks the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We all got our hero shots from this spectacular viewpoint. We are going to spend at least one more day at 14k to see if we can let some wind clear out before we return up high to 17k. It has been so nice at 14k that we feel a bit spoiled! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Joan. A tope. Aqui desde las azores marta y yo te damos animos como si estuvieramos juntos en Islandia last year. GO FOR IT and come back save with your family…

Piensa que en barcelona estan a 40 grados celsius!!!!! .

Love you Ana

Posted by: Ana prats on 6/28/2019 at 10:21 am

Wind, wind, go away,
so we can get underway,
any day would be OK,
this isn’t exactly a holiday!

Thinking of you and wishing you calm days. Go Tym!  Go Team!!

Love Mom and Zeppelin

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/28/2019 at 10:03 am


Mission Saipal: RMI Guide Hannah Smith & Team Continue Descent and Family Visit

We ate cookies for breakfast in a smokey room with tea. Shortly after we said goodbye to Laxmi and started our walk back to where we left our duffles. The only communication in these parts in by a messenger, word of mouth. When we left our duffles, the plan was that some duffles would keep going to Chainpur and our trekking duffles would be left waiting for us. We also thought the rest of our team would be there waiting. But the plan has clearly changed with no message for there were no duffles where we left them and all the porters and team members gone. We aren't sure exactly where they are or when we will see the rest of our team and duffles. But for now we are staying at another homestay. We will all sleep up in the attic and enjoy a home cooked meal of Dahl baht and chapati bread with black tea. From day one this journey has been fluid and unpredictable, so we will see what tomorrow brings. Goodnight, RMI Guide Hannah Smith
Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Descend to 14K Camp

This is Adam calling in from 17,000’ on Denali. We woke this morning to continued snow and wind, with a major low pressure system forecast to dominate the region over the next several days. We have endured this weather at high camp since Monday and have decided to descend back to 14K camp. Even the approach route, between 14,000’ and basecamp, can be a bear to navigate in foul weather, and we need to stay strong and focused. We’ll begin our descent of the West Buttress and the infamous fixed lines to reach Advanced Base at 14,200’ where Dave Hahn’s RMI party is encamped. We’ll check in tomorrow and advise everyone of our plans and progress. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

John and crew,  Stay strong!  I am pulling for the weather to begin to work in your favor.  You have been so patient ....hang in there!  love, dee

Posted by: Deann on 7/7/2012 at 12:46 pm

Nelson, sympathy for Mother Nature at 17,000 camp.  I know you toughed out cold and wind, and I hope you can recharge and warm a bit at 14,000 camp.  I know you may be disappointed, but few have ever been to 17,000 on Denali.  Hang in there and maybe the weather will break and reward perseverance.  Love you, stay safe.  Dad

Posted by: Bill on 7/7/2012 at 10:10 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Enjoyed a Rest Day

Once we decided not to move for the day, the team slept late and gorged ourselves on a breakfast of toasted bagels with cream cheese and lockes. The rest of the morning was spent getting camp in order and digging out our walls. Expedition life is a funny mixture of hard days of climbing and long days of sitting in the tents trying to avoid boredom. Today was the latter. We spent the afternoon avoiding the sun while we napped, read books and told stories. Being able to entertain yourself in the tent is a crucial skill on big expeditions. Tomorrow, weather permitting, we plan to make a push up towards the 11k camp for more acclimatization and rest before we push higher on this magical massif, Denali. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck guys. Hope you got lots of rest.

Posted by: Megan Berge on 6/5/2012 at 12:14 pm

Chris and all the team….Happy trecking, and safe return . We are all thinking about your adventure and you.

Posted by: Voula Likourgiotis on 6/5/2012 at 11:58 am


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Upper West Rib Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

Hello, this is Adam Knoff and the Upper West Rib Team. We are settled in nicely here at 14,000’, Advanced Base Camp. We moved up today in the harsh winds but pushed through, maintained, got here in good style and everyone here is doing great. We have coined ourselves a new team name that being “The Family Style West Rib Team”. Because back in Talkeetna we decided we were going to fit 5 people in a 4 man tent on our expedition. Courtney Scaife being a good old fashion Wisconsin girl said “This is just like family style camping” and now we will refer to ourselves as the Family Style West Rib Team. The weather here is cloudy but calm and relatively warm for this altitude. We will be taking a rest day tomorrow, with the exception of climbing down about 500’ below camp to retrieve our cache . The following day we will have a full rest day. So a nice, leisurely couple of days coming up compared to the seven solid days of movement we’ve had the last week. We will be checking in tomorrow and let you know how our rest is going. RMI Guide Adam Knoff


RMI Guide Adam Knoff checks in from 14,000' on Mt. McKinley.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go Courto!!!!!!  Keep on making the Cheeseheads proud.  You are a super rock star - kind of scares me actually as I sit on my mommy butt drinking beer and watching reality tv.  I know you are also super embarrassed reading this right now so I guess my current mission has been accomplished.  The Thompson 5 love you.  Sus

Posted by: Susannah Thompson on 6/3/2011 at 1:01 pm

Buen dia rucho, te amo mucho…acurucaaaa! jaja… feliz aventura…

Posted by: Anita on 6/2/2011 at 3:35 pm

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