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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Reach the Summit!

What a perfect day for a summit! And so, what better way to spend the day high on Denali than to go for a little walk. First to Denali Pass still shrouded in the cold morning's shade. Then, bang a hard right followed by a sweeping left towards Archdeacon's Tower. Over hill and dale to the Football Field, then up Pig Hill for a final but kicker and onto the summit ridge. We finally reached the summit at about 5:30, wearing our big down parkas to protect us from a rather chilly breeze. What a day! Unfortunately we were missing a couple of key members of our team, a consequence of not taking a rest day after our big push up from 14,200' camp. But we all discussed the gamble of taking advantage of a perfect day on your first morning and agreed on the strategy. So, Clay and Frank, having reached their personal high point of 19,000' today, will have another chance at the summit tomorrow if the weather holds up along with their motivation. These two have probably earned the right to summit as much as anyone due to their hard work for the team, selflessness, and good nature. Maile, Leon and I, along with the rest of the team, are completely committed to helping these two amazing individuals reach their goals. We're all looking forward to a good night's sleep, so until next time... RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Maile


RMI Guide Brent Okita checks in after reaching the summit of Mt. McKinley with his team.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Frank - awesome. What a fantastic accomplishment; to think that I personally know someone who scaled Mt Mckinley. Can’t wait to hear the story and see pics.

Lou (Adam’s dad)

Posted by: Lou Lenz on 6/4/2011 at 5:20 am

Been looking for your name Uncle Frank!! Good Luck, hope all is well!! We’re thinking of you and sending you the best weather ever!

Posted by: Britain on 6/2/2011 at 7:40 am


Kahiltna Seminar: Gorum & Team Put New Skills to Work on Radio Tower

Tuesday, May 25, 2021 - 11:33 pm PT

We had another great day here on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Not a cloud in the sky and balmy temperatures made life easy. We woke up a bit earlier today, around 6, ate a quick breakfast and started breaking trail up towards our first climbing objective. Radio Control Tower is a peak located just outside of Base Camp. We made good time getting up to the ridge, and put a lot of different climbing techniques to use.

We got back to camp and hid from the sun in our tents for the early part of the afternoon. Once it cooled off a bit we practiced some crevasse rescue systems around the tents, with the hopes of finding a suitable crack to practice around tomorrow.

Everyone is adjusting quite well to glacier life. We’ve already got a book club in the making, and our nightly live-broadcast podcast is really taking off. Everyone sends their best to the folks back home! You’ll hear from us again tomorrow.

RMI Guide JM Gorum

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

A book club in the making.  Now THAT is not what you’d expect to learn is happening up on a glacier.  Shows the balance of working both body and mind though.  So rock on!

Posted by: Melanee Strootman on 5/26/2021 at 12:17 pm

Way to go team,  keep up the good work. The view looks amazing.

Posted by: Frances Shaw on 5/26/2021 at 7:22 am


Denali Expedition: Haugen and Team Visit the Edge of the World

Thursday, June 27, 2019 - 9:45 PM PT Not much to report from 14k. We woke up late, ate breakfast burritos for brunch, and relaxed. We did stretch out our legs and walk out to an area called the Edge of the World. As suggested, the Edge of the World is a huge drop of that overlooks the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We all got our hero shots from this spectacular viewpoint. We are going to spend at least one more day at 14k to see if we can let some wind clear out before we return up high to 17k. It has been so nice at 14k that we feel a bit spoiled! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Joan. A tope. Aqui desde las azores marta y yo te damos animos como si estuvieramos juntos en Islandia last year. GO FOR IT and come back save with your family…

Piensa que en barcelona estan a 40 grados celsius!!!!! .

Love you Ana

Posted by: Ana prats on 6/28/2019 at 10:21 am

Wind, wind, go away,
so we can get underway,
any day would be OK,
this isn’t exactly a holiday!

Thinking of you and wishing you calm days. Go Tym!  Go Team!!

Love Mom and Zeppelin

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/28/2019 at 10:03 am


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Reaches Disappointment Cleaver Before High Winds Turn the Team Back

The Four Day Climb, led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Sam Hoffman, reached the top of Disappointment Cleaver early this morning. After a strong alpine start and steady progress through the night, the team made excellent time ascending from Camp Muir.

As they approached the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier, the team encountered increasingly strong winds with gusts above 60 mph. Despite the group’s strength and determination, the guides made the prudent decision to turn the climb at the top of the Cleaver.

Reaching Disappointment Cleaver is a significant accomplishment, especially in challenging weather. The team demonstrated strong climbing skills, sound judgment, and excellent teamwork throughout the expedition.

Congratulations to all the climbers for their effort and perseverance. Well done!

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Mt. Rainier: May 25th Update

Expedition Skills Seminar: May 20 - 25, 2012 The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides J.J. Justman and Jake Beren have enjoyed several days of training at Camp Muir. The team members received instruction on crevasse rescue, avalanche forecasting, building snow anchors and much more. Weather and snow conditions prevented the team from making a summit attempt. They began their descent from Camp Muir at 10 a.m. Pacific Time. Liberty Ridge Climb: May 20 - 25, 2012 The Liberty Ridge Climb led by RMI Guides Tyler Reid and Elias de Andres Martos began at the White River Trailhead on Tuesday, May 22. Conditions on the mountain prevented them from attempting the Liberty Ridge climb. They did make a summit attempt via the Little Tahoma route but were turned by deteriorating weather. The team will return to Ashford this afternoon.
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Mt. Rainier: June 22, 2013 Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Walter Hailes called as they reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier at 6:59am this morning. The teams have clear weather with light winds, but cold temperatures. They spent some time on the summit before starting their descent back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams! RMI Guide JJ Justman's team was awarded with a beautiful day of climbing up to Camp Muir. The team is keeping their fingers crossed for good weather tomorrow morning!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What an awesome journey you have just completed. Walking by the full moon in the wee hours of the day to stand on top of the world must have been exhilarating and inspiring. Your hard work was admirable as you put your energy into reaching your goals. I bow gently in respect for all of you. Now…What’s next?

Posted by: Jan Alexander on 6/22/2013 at 5:45 pm

Outstanding pic! Can’t wait to se the videos.

Posted by: Tom Buser on 6/22/2013 at 1:25 pm


Mt. Elbrus: Mallory & Team Acclimatize at Base of Mt. Elbrus

We woke to the steady patter of rain falling on the village of Cheget this morning. The clouds hung low in the valley, all of the mountains above still obscured. But to the west the clouds were thinning and the rain let up as soon as we finished breakfast. We left the hotel and walked over to the base of the ski lifts to catch a ride higher into the mountains. We hopped onto the lift, each chair painted a different color, and slowly rose into the clouds. At one point the lift stretched across a high point and all we could see was the little yellow and red chairs bouncing along into a sea of grey. By the time we passed the switched lifts at the mid station the clouds began to part and soon the views were improving. Near 10,000' we unloaded from the lifts and began hiking above the resort towards the summit of Peak Cheget. We navigated the narrow climbers' trail, scrambling across the big rock slabs and over boulders, quickly gaining altitude on the narrow ridge. The weather continued to improve and we were soon shedding our rain jackets in favor of sunglasses. Close to 11,500' the skies briefly parted and we caught our first views of Mt. Elbrus across the valley. The view was fleeting, as the window in the clouds quickly closed, but we were able to see our entire route to the summit. By midday we reached the summit of Peak Cheget near 12,000'. The change in altitude from Moscow (~500') was noticeable, but everyone on the team felt strong. We stayed on the summit for a few minutes before descending back down the trail to the lifts and returning to town for the afternoon. We spent the rest of the day sorting and organizing our gear in anticipation of moving onto the mountain. Tomorrow we head up to our hut along the edges of Mt. Elbrus' glaciers where we will spend the next four nights. We are excited about getting on the mountain and looking forward to trading our hiking shoes for climbing boots and crampons. We will check in tomorrow from the Garabashi Hut. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Planning to spend some time with heavy-drinking Russian soldiers on this climb? Or was that a one time thing? Is there a plan to introduce those chairlifts on Denali?

Posted by: Madhu Rao on 7/14/2012 at 4:56 pm

Have a great time. Be safe, have fun and drink soup at the barrels, and catch a fish! Bill M.

Posted by: Bill McGahan on 7/13/2012 at 2:16 am


Mexico’s Volcanoes: Westling and Team Arrive in Mexico City

Last night some of our team arrived in Mexico City and were welcomed by the beautiful, lit up statues in the city center. 

Today, folks had the opportunity to explore and rest for the rest of the trip ahead. Some enjoyed a walk through Chapultepec park, where tree lined sidewalks provide a nice reprieve from the bustling city. Others explored the city streets and food while also taking the day to rest. 

This evening our team finally gathered to meet and discuss our adventure ahead. 

Welcome to our Mexico's Volcanoes blog!

RMI Guide Abby Westling and Team

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Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Move to 11,000ft Camp

Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 11:31 pm PT

Cold temps and wind greeted us as we began our move to 11,000' Camp, our Camp 2 this morning.  The climb warmed up as the sun hit us and we enjoyed stellar views. The day remained windy with blowing snow but our team powered through it.  Arriving at 11,000' Camp, we settled in and built our camp in fine alpine style.  We were pleasantly surprised to run into the rest of our RMI teams here at 11,200'. Hopefully the reunion will be short as those teams progress up the mountain while good weather remains over the range.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Someone said there is no WiFi in the mountains, but you will make your own connections! Enjoy it all!

Posted by: Maxine Kay on 5/24/2021 at 7:09 pm


Mt. Everest: Teams Watch the Weather

Well, the summit buzz is starting here at Everest Base Camp. A few teams had planned on heading up this morning but a pulse of snow in the early morning hours shut most of them down. Everyone has been milling about camp trying to piece together what the other teams are doing. It's all pretty exciting. The main focus for everyone is on the weather forecast. There is a tropical cyclone in the Bay of Bengal and that could mean a lot of snow if it comes our way. Everyone is hoping that it dissipates over the next several days of course. As for us we're not rushing up the mountain just yet. We're still healing up a bit and being in the first big wave if summiteers was never in our plan. Better for us to hang back a few days, wait for a solid forecast and hopefully get the summit without a big crowd. So its at least a few more days of Base Camp life for us. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey guys you all look pumped! We are extremely proud of your achievement’s thus far! Stay strong for your summit and we look forward to your safe arrival home. Dan you really are a “Mountain Man”. :-)

Posted by: Ann, Jerry & Michelle on 5/15/2013 at 3:54 pm

Hey Dan, nice beard.  Brenda & I hope your feeling strong.  Sounds like your getting close.  All the luck brah.  Paul and I are going to open your pool on Saturday so when you get home you can fall right in.

Posted by: Rick Sanderson on 5/14/2013 at 5:18 pm

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