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Mt. Rainier: Teams Enjoy Walk to Flats

September 2, 2022

Posted by: Steve Gately, Matias Francis, Ben Luedtke, Charlie Harrison, Mike Bennett, Nicole De Petris

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,200'

The Five-Day teams led by Steve Gately and Matias Francis enjoyed a beautiful walk to the Ingraham Flats this morning. The team decided not to climb due to unfavorable route conditions but enjoyed two days of great weather and lots of hands-on training. The teams will pack up camp and head downhill this morning. We expect the teams back at Basecamp in the early afternoon.

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Guide Shack: Anne Gilbert Chase

February 16, 2012

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Categories: Guide News

RMI Guide Gilbert Chase has been guiding for RMI since 2010. An accomplished rock and alpine climber, Gilbert’s winter is busy travelling the world on climbing and skiing adventures. We caught up with Gilbert after her recent Aconcagua Expedition to hear about the climb. RMI: It’s been a busy start to the year for you with an Aconcagua Expedition and a Rainier Expeditions Skills Seminar - Winter. Tell us about it! It has been a very busy start to 2012 for me. I flew down to Mendoza, Argentina at the start of January for my first Aconcagua Expedition. It was a great trip overall. Working with such a great group of folks as well as guides made the trip a very memorable experience. I had spent time in Argentina many years ago, so I was very excited to get back down there and check things out again. Both the mountain and the culture are beautiful and I highly recommend this trip for anyone who wants a challenging but wonderful mountain adventure mixed with great local flavor. I flew back to the states around the 1st of February and within a couple of days I was driving out to WA for a Winter Expedition Skills Seminar on Mt. Rainier. We had high hopes of a winter summit with a high-pressure system in the forecast. However, the reality of winter on Mt. Rainier with high winds and lots of precipitation kept our team at Camp Muir. Despite the bad weather, spirits were still high and we had a great week on the mountain teaching and learning skills to prepare us for future trips. Trying to do crevasse rescue in 40 mph winds with no visibility proved very challenging and very fun for most. RMI: Aconcagua marked your first International Expedition for RMI, what were you’re initial impressions of Aconcagua? Overall, I thought Aconcagua was a beautiful mountain. At 22,840’, it rises out of a colorful river valley to sit high above the surrounding mountains. I am a rock climber at heart, so for me all of the rock on the mountain, although not very good, was amazing. I was constantly looking for different cracks or faces that I could come back and climb. While we were on the mountain, it snowed almost every other day so there was a fresh coat of paint making the mountain look even more striking. I think even more than the mountain itself, I loved the local culture that surrounds every inch. Plaza Argentina, which is our Base Camp, is filled with local porters and cooks making a living by way of the mountain. It is such a unique and cool place to experience. RMI: How do you think Aconcagua compares to Denali? I think Aconcagua and Denali are very similar in many ways. I think Aconcagua is a good first step if people want a little more experience before Denali. Aconcagua is a big expedition but still with a few luxuries, such as great dinners at Base Camp and mules carrying our gear into Base Camp. Summit day on Aconcagua is a long and tiring day that requires not only physical but mental endurance. For me, the weather on my Aconcagua Expedition was way better than Denali, so that made life much easier. We had a pretty warm summit day, although still wearing down pants and down parka, but it is all relative when climbing in the mountains. RMI: Did you find any big difference between guiding an international expedition and guiding here in the U.S.? For the most part, guiding internationally and guiding stateside are very similar. The principles of guiding are the same no matter where you go. I think logistics can be the hardest part of an international expedition, especially when speaking a foreign language. On our expedition, we had an issue with delayed luggage and many phone calls with the local airlines that made our lives much more difficult. However, once on the mountain, I felt at home and comfortable working with clients. RMI: What recommendations do you have for climbers looking to head to Aconcagua? The route we climb on Aconcagua is not a technical route so I do not feel people need a lot of climbing experience before heading on this expedition. Obviously the more time spent in the mountains makes any expedition easier, but everything can be learned while on this mountain. I think being in the best shape of your life is a necessity, as we are carrying heavy loads most days and climbing at high altitude. Being in great shape makes life easier while climbing a mountain, because it is one less thing to think about and allows you to enjoy the experience that much more. I think everyone who is interested in climbing big mountains should head down south to Aconcagua. Not only is it a beautiful, big mountain, but the local Argentine people and culture make this trip very rewarding. Eating amazing beef while drinking a glass of tasty Malbec at 14,000’ after a day of climbing…what more can you ask for? RMI: What will you definitely bring next time you return to Aconcagua? My thermos goes with me on every expedition. It is great to have a hot drink whenever I want and not have to wait for the stoves to boil water at 19,000’. Also I bring my approach shoes on the mountain with me so I can get out of my boots after a long day of climbing. A good book and iPod go a long way as well especially when you are tired of talking with your tentmate about the weather. I pack pretty light so I can’t say there was anything extra I brought. RMI: Do you have a favorite memory or moment from the Expedition? On the long two day walk out from Base Camp, we got some local beta from the Arrieros [local muleteers] about a short cut that would save us a few miles. Although the short cut was a lot more beautiful and exciting it was definitely not shorter - in fact I think it was probably longer. We had to cross a river at some point on our trek out and our “short cut” took us through a very swift thigh deep section of the river. Most of the folks in our group stripped down to their skivvies to wade through the ice cold water. It was a hilarious scene that provided us with a good amount of comic relief for the day. RMI: What does the rest of your winter look like? In two weeks, fellow RMI Guide Jason Thompson and I are flying over to France to ski and climb for a few weeks. We are going to meet up with RMI Guide Tyler Jones who is ski guiding over in La Grave for the winter. We will be skiing and climbing in La Grave as well as Chamonix. They are having an amazing winter so far over in that area so I am super excited to ski some super good powder and climb some sticky ice. We fly back to Montana at the end of March and I will be ready to hang the skis up and dust off the rock climbing shoes. Hopefully, I will head down to the desert for a few weeks of rock scrambling and warm sunshine. RMI: What are your spring and summer climbing plans? Even though spring seems so far away at this point, I am really looking forward to rock climbing for the month of April around the desert towers of Utah and the volcanic tuft of central Oregon. On May 1st I fly up to Alaska to start my guiding season in the Alaskan Range. First I will be working the Alaska Mountaineering Seminar from May 1st through May 11th. This will be my first time working this program so I am super excited to be hanging around Base Camp for ten days and climbing some of the amazing peaks in that zone. After the seminar, I start a McKinley West Buttress Climb on May 15. I have not worked a trip this early on Denali before, so I am looking forward to the cold temps and easy walking on the lower Kahiltna Glacier. I hope the spring and summer finds all of you getting outside and climbing some mountains whether big or small. Enjoy every day and keep a smile on your face.

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Cotopaxi Express: Wittmier & Team Hike to summit of Rucu Pichincha

November 2, 2021

Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Matias Francis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 15,354'

November 2, 2021 - 6:33 am PT

Yesterday we did our first serious acclimatizing by hiking Rucu Pichincha. It is a fun hike that includes a gondola ride to 13,000' where we began our ascent to Rucu Pichincha, with an official summit elevation of 15354'. The entire team made it to the summit after a few hours of hiking and a short scramble. We then hustled down to avoid the afternoon rains and arrived back at the gondola before getting wet. This morning we are headed to Iliniza to make a summit attempt on Iliniza Norte tomorrow!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

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That is Awesome Dustin!!! Best of luck to you and the team!!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 11/3/2021 at 4:05 am

Nice hike to the summit of Rucu Puchincha. Keep up the good work.

Posted by: Joel Cline on 11/2/2021 at 8:16 am

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Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche: Team Returns to Kathmandu

April 8, 2022

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Hannah Smith

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche

Day 16-17

Waking into Namche this round through was much different than the first time. Despite our sizable group, we were by no means the largest on the trail.

This place is now in full swing with Everest climbers, international trekking teams and yak trains going up the valley towards Everest Base Camp.

Even though the traffic resembled more of a US interstate than a single-track trail, we were pleased to land back at camp de base where we were welcomed with hot showers, Nepal Ice “extra strong beer” and the comforts of nice rooms with personal bathrooms. The hike was roughly 8 miles from Pangboche consisting of many ups and downs but nothing the seasoned team couldn’t handle.

After a normal 7:30 breakfast the following morning, we set our sights on Lukla, home of the infamous dead-end runway and gateway to Everest. Eleven miles and 6 hours after leaving Namche we strolled in with time to spare before dinner so naps all around became the team activity. The clouds were thick as pea soup by 7 pm so our flight status was a bit unknown. With fingers crossed we went to bed. When our alarms ripped us awake at 5 am the disheartening presence of this fog was still lingering out the window.

We made our way anyhow, walking to the airport to check in and hope for the best. After waiting for ten hours to fly on the way in, we were not hoping for a repeat. Two hours in we were beginning to get a bit worried and then the first plane landed. Ten minutes later we were loaded up and, in our way, back to Kathmandu!

Now we are clean, fed and content, celebrating a fun and successful trip. I can’t thank this team enough for a great few weeks in Nepal.

This wraps up the Everest Base Camp and Lobuche expedition. Thanks for following!

RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Hannah Smith and Team

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Amazing trip. Would do it all over again. This trip changed the trajectory of my life. Thank you for your expertise guidance and comeraderie

Posted by: Eva on 4/9/2022 at 3:17 am

Congratulations! If you are in southwest Idaho, look us up!

Posted by: Molly Knoff Vaughn on 4/8/2022 at 10:01 am

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Unable to Summit, Reach 12,300’

August 31, 2022

Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Seth Burns, George Hedreen, Jenna Burkey, Joey Manship

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,300'

The Four Day Climb August 28 - 31 led by RMI Guides Avery Parrinello and Jack Delaney were unable to summit today. Climbers reached 12,300, the top of Disappointment Cleaver, before deciding to turn back due to unfavorable route conditions and warm temperatures. The teams were back to Camp Muir just after 7 am. They took some time to repack before beginning their descent from Camp Muir back to Paradise. We expect the groups to be at Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

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Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche: Knoff, Smith & Team Arrive at Everest Base Camp

March 31, 2022

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Hannah Smith

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche

Elevation: 17,575'

Today was not unlike most of our others the last week. Breakfast, packing then walking. Except today we would finally reach Everest Base Camp. It is almost agonizing to see the bright yellow tents in the distance and feel like they are not getting any closer. But three hours of steady walking landed the entire team safely at the Base Camp rock. We were greeted upon arrival by our gracious Base Camp Staff with cookies and hot tea. The views of the Khumbu icefall, Mt. Everest and Nupste were incredible the entire morning. After our entrance greeting, we hiked the final 30 minutes to our camp site and enjoyed hot showers, a great dinner and interesting sounds of far off avalanches.

Everyone is now tucked into their cozy tents ready for a good nights rest. We will report tomorrow after our hike back to Lobuche.

RMI Guide Hannah Smith

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Hey Hannah and Adam!!!
This is So Cool!!!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 4/2/2022 at 11:12 am

Congrats on hike well done! Glad weather is your blessing. Best returning.

Posted by: Jane on 3/31/2022 at 12:05 pm

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Denali Expedition: Bond & Team Land a Double Pancake Flip on Rest Day

June 17, 2023

Posted by: Andy Bond, Jack Delaney, Joey Manship

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 16, 2023 11:38PM PT

On this glorious morning, we awoke to partly sunny skies and light snow showers (for those who don't know, this means mostly cloudy.) As temperatures warmed, we all gathered in the posh for another round of pancake Hibachi. Yours truly went for broke and landed a double pancake flip (that is one pancake flipping twice). Unfortunately, the blast wave of this extreme maneuver broke our big strong Andy's fork.

To make the most of our relatively mild weather and rest day, we headed out of camp and practiced fixed line travel and clipping pickets. The team did great and is ready for whatever gloves the mountain throws at them.

Famished, we made our way back to camp to gorge on snacks, mainly cheese. This helped quell our toilet paper crisis for the near future.

After dinner and a sweet treat of Jack's cheesecake the team retired to hopefully sleep deep and oxygen rich.

- Clown Fish/Joey

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Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche: Knoff, Smith & Team Summit Lobuche

April 3, 2022

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Hannah Smith

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche

Elevation: 20,075'

We are happy to announce that the Lobuche climbing team successfully reached the summit this morning at roughly 10 am. It was a much more demanding climb than originally thought but everyone pushed hard and gave it all they had resulting in 100% of the team making it to the summit. Because the day was so challenging, we got down much later than expected so we are currently still at High Camp. We will descend in the morning to hot showers, wi fi and beer! All of the guides are proud of today's efforts. Stay tuned for a more detailed description later.

RMI Guide Hannah Smith

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CONGRATULATIONS!! Safe descending and travels!

Posted by: Molly Knoff Caughn on 4/3/2022 at 3:10 pm

That is Very Cool!! Congratulations!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 4/3/2022 at 11:20 am

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Mountaineering Training | The Motivation Factor

May 26, 2014

Posted by:

Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training

A crux for improvement in most any athlete lies in maintaining motivation; maintaining the drive to begin, practice, and persist at a task until you have reached your goals. In a 2009 piece in Psychology Today, Jim Taylor wrote that there are three factors that affect performance: Ability, Competition, and Motivation. Motivation is the only factor over which you have control. Ability (both physical, tactical, and mental) is something that you are born with. Other outside factors influence performance as well such as the away game crowd in sports, or temperature, weather, wind, and conditions in mountaineering. Again, these factors are all beyond our control, and can only be anticipated and dealt with as they appear. This leaves motivation as the key component to success. When we are motivated, we train and practice in order to maximize our given abilities. This probably isn’t news to anyone, but how do you maintain motivation day after day in a training process that can take well over a year to reach its culmination? How do you maintain your motivation in the face of cold and wet conditions in the winter, hot and muggy in the summer, or when other elements in your life are pressing in and tempting you to skip a day of training? This is the point that sports psychologists refer to as “the grind”, the point at which training and practice cease to be fun or pleasurable and begin to sap at your motivation. How you respond to the grind is what separates a top performance from a mediocre one. When you feel your training and motivation beginning to suffer, be willing to admit it and decide what direction you are going to take. You can continue on your current trajectory, or you can redirect yourself toward your goals and redouble your efforts. Once you decide on a path, dedicate yourself to it and recognize that your training needs to hold a place of priority in your daily schedule. At the same time, take a moment to evaluate your training and decide what is working and what isn’t. If running is hurting your knees and causing you to dread your workouts, reduce the number of running workouts in your training and shift those workouts to a lower impact activity such as cycling. When the gym becomes claustrophobic, take your core workouts outside to the local park or woods. It’s something of a cliché to say that the difference between athletes and great athletes is their dedication to the game. Pelé once said that, “I used to train very hard. When the other players went to the beach after training, I was there kicking the ball.” While most climbers don’t have the time to dedicate themselves singularly to climbing like Pelé did, try to practice that same mental dedication. Ask yourself in the morning what you can do that day to improve and give yourself the best chance on Rainier or any other peak. Before you head to bed, ask yourself if you did everything you could that day to achieve your goals. Finally, if you have a novel trick that you use to stay motivated, post it in the comments below. Your trick may be just the ticket for another climber! Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!

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First, I just want to say I am looking forward to meeting everyone on this climb! I hope we will be able to summit and the weather doesn’t stop us from achieving that goal.

Kevin M.-when do you and your brother fly in to Seattle? I live in Washington and might be willing to pick you both up at the airport if you arrive at a decent time. Let me know.

See you all in July. Safe travels to you all.

Steph

Posted by: Steph on 6/13/2014 at 2:53 pm

Hello all, My brother and I are coming from out of town for this climb but we are running into issues with getting out to Rainier. I’m curious, How are the rest of you reaching the park? and also, would any one be willing to carpool?

Posted by: Kevin M. on 6/9/2014 at 9:48 pm

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Ecuador Seminar: Team Rests and Prepares for Chimborazo

February 17, 2024

Posted by: Dustin Wittmier

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 13,123'

Friday, February 16, 2023 | 5:38 PT

This morning everyone reported having slept soundly. As it turns out, even climbing half of Antisana is still hard. We're recovering and now looking forward to Chimborazo, which has been giving us quite the show this evening. We're staying at the Chimborazo Lodge, an historic mountain lodge run by Marco Cruz, a climbing legend in Ecuador. It sits at about 13000' right at the base of the southwest flank of the mountain. There is no cell reception and no wifi, giving us a chance to unplug and hone our focus towards the task at hand, climbing another massive volcano. With any luck and a lot of trying hard we may have a chance to visit a truly majestic summit. Stay tuned!

-- RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

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Most Popular Entries

Mt. Rainier: Teams Enjoy Walk to Flats

Guide Shack: Anne Gilbert Chase

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Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche: Team Returns to Kathmandu

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Unable to Summit, Reach 12,300’

Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche: Knoff, Smith & Team Arrive at Everest Base Camp

Denali Expedition: Bond & Team Land a Double Pancake Flip on Rest Day

Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche: Knoff, Smith & Team Summit Lobuche

Mountaineering Training | The Motivation Factor

Ecuador Seminar: Team Rests and Prepares for Chimborazo

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