We started our day here pretty early, meeting in the hotel lobby at 5:30am. After checking out of the hotel we had a short ride to the domestic airport were we weighed all of our duffels and backpacks before getting tickets and slipping through a very laid back security check. Normally there’s a little bit of waiting before heading out, but today things moved along pretty quickly.
We opted for helicopter flights to the Lukla airport and avoided the small planes that require land on an uphill runway. After we touched down, we connected with our local Sherpa guides hired a few porters that will be carrying our duffles throughout the trek. We made a brief stop at a local tea house to have breakfast and get situated before hitting the trail.
We hiked for about four hours today with few stops to rest and to take in the beautiful scenery. We arrived at our camp for the night in a village called Phakding just in time for a well earned lunch. The team got settled, had naps, or explored a little before walking a short way to one of the many Monastery’s here in the Valley. Luckily for us the Monks were having a prayer session and allowed us to sit in while they chanted and blew their horns. It was very surreal and a wonderful way to start this adventure.
Following a rainy day on Fuya Fuya yesterday, we were able to dry out and take hot showers at La Casa Sol. We had the place to ourselves and enjoyed a quiet stay. Today we spent a couple hours at the Otavalo Market, the largest outdoor craft market in South America. It was a fun and slow way to start our day which included a bus ride and long 4x4 ride to the Cayambe climber’s hut. The team is settled in for the night and we will train on the glacier tomorrow, reviewing basic climbing skills and learning how to build snow anchors. Thanks for staying tuned and cross your fingers for good weather the next two days!
As climbers we make every effort to be as lazy as possible. We seek to accomplish our goals and objectives with as little effort as necessary, and will cringe at the idea of making something harder than it needs to be. This may seem contrary to the image of climbing as an extreme activity during which many people find their physical and mental limit. However, a we often choose objectives that are at the peak of our abilities and thus we are required to maximize efficiency in our effort if we are to succeed. What I refer to tongue-in-cheek as laziness is in reality efficiency: efficiency, which can be found in every aspect of mountain existence. Whether it be the way a rock climber positions their body on a route or an alpine climber packs for an expedition, success in the mountains involves high levels of efficiency.
There some methods of efficiency that don’t directly involve the physical act of climbing but rather things you can do prior to and while climbing that can give you a leg up. I refer to these as “putting money in the bank.” I think that saying came from a high school teacher referring to gimme questions on an exam, but for me “money in the bank” means any techniques or tricks that can give you an efficiency advantage in the mountains. I would like to share some of the things I’ve learned from my time in the mountains with a specific focus on climbing Mt. Rainier:
A great place to start improving your efficiency in the mountains begins with your equipment: what equipment are you using and does it work for you? Place a high priority on critical items such as boots and or packs, and worry less about items such as a fancy headlamp or spork. For me, a well-fit boot that is designed for the type of climbing I am doing is imperative. A good boot can mean the difference between a successful summit and a failed attempt; blisters and cold feet should never thwart a climber’s chance at the summit. In addition, find a climbing pack that carries weight well and fits you properly. Forget all the fancy features and pockets; a simple and minimalist pack that fits and carries weight well is what I look for. You might be able to get by with an old pack or a warm weather climbing boot, but why chance it? Having the right gear for the task makes for one less thing that could slow you down.
Maintaining your gear makes a big difference too. I regularly spend a few hours taking care of small issues that have cropped up with my equipment to make sure that everything is going to work well when I need it to and not fail when it really counts. I trust my life to my equipment and so do others. For example, I frequently re-waterproof my gloves and Gore-Tex jackets. A headlamp is no good if your batteries run out, and a boot will not work as well if the laces snap. Not every piece of equipment needs to be new, but it does need to work properly. Climbing is too much fun to be hampered by equipment issues!
With the right gear and everything dialed in, you need to pack it all up. As guides, we seem to have a magical ability to pack 50 liters of gear into a 30 liter pack, but what may seem to be magic is really just some good common sense. My favorite metaphor for packing is “brick and mortar.” Some of your items are going to be bricks (eg: sleeping bag in stuff sack) and some are going to be mortar (eg: puffy jacket). When packing, also consider multi-use items. A 1/2 liter nalgene makes for a great coffee mug and can also carry an extra 1/2 liter of water when you need it. You want to maximize space and value in your pack. Crampons don’t need a crampon case, since quite often wrapping them in your gaiters works just fine and saves space and weight. Putting some time and thought into a well-packed kit can often fit in a smaller pack. Smaller packs equal lighter packs, giving you a little more money in the bank.
With packing complete, there are still a few more things you can do before a climb that will get you ahead. For me this starts with my nutrition and hydration. On Mt. Rainier, I’ve found that from the time I leave home in the morning to the time my team is hiking out of Paradise (approx. 1.5 hours), I can easily sip down a liter of water. Don’t chug water, but slowly sip a liter in the morning and on the bus ride to Paradise. This will help make sure that you are hydrated for the beginning of your climb. Pre-hydration, which can start as early as the night before, allows me to bring less water during a climb (less weight), and helps prevent dehydration. I can recover more quickly, and can focus on other aspects of the climb instead of staving off dehydration.
With regards to nutrition, my best suggestion is to learn your own body. I know how much fuel my body needs at a high level of activity, which is less than some of my friends but definitely more than others. For two-day trips such as Mt. Rainer, I try to be as precise as I can with the amount of food I bring. Start by factoring around 200 calories per break and then adjust from there to your specific needs. In addition to that, bring foods you enjoy eating and can eat while exercising. I love pizza, but definitely wouldn’t want a slice in the middle of a climb. Remember; when we climb at altitude the effort is roughly similar to how our bodies feel during a slow jog. Focus on foods that hold a lot of caloric value. By bringing the right food and bring only the food you’ll need, you’ll save space and carry less weight.
Lastly, be efficient with your time. When taking a break, maximize your time resting and recovering. Get your self-care chores done early and quickly so that you get as much time off of your feet as possible. This applies to getting to camp also. Take care of business first so that you spend a maximum amount of time recovering later. Use momentum to your advantage: we take short breaks so we do not lose our momentum, and when you roll into camp use that same momentum to set up and settle in before you are too tired to do the things you should have done. This might be setting up camp or dealing with a pesky blister; the sooner you get it done the sooner you can rest. Keep in mind that even if we feel great we still need to recover!
These are just a few theories on how to be more efficient while climbing. Climbers are constantly in opposition with gravity and time, so a light pack will allow us to expend less energy, and quick recoveries will make us stronger for the next day. Every bit of money in the bank you can save will give you a better chance of success on the mountain, and will be one less issue to worry about. Learn from others, and learn what works best for you. Take the time to find the right gear, pack well, eat and drink right, and maximize your rest because the climb is not getting any easier and the mountains are not getting any smaller!
_____ Billy Haas guides trips on Mt. Rainier, Mt. McKinley, and abroad for RMI Expeditions. When not traveling to mountains around the world to climb or ski, Billy guides backcountry skiing and teaches avalanche courses in Salt Lake City, UT.
Questions? Comments? What are your suggestions for staying efficient in the mountains? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
We got together after a relaxing breakfast in our tropical garden of a lodge and we talked about going up amongst the glaciers of Kilimanjaro. It was a morning of going over the plan of attack and for discussing gear and best practices for staying healthy in this part of the world. The middle of the day was spent getting the gear and clothing sorted and by afternoon the team enjoyed a bit of free time to wander about or to nap. The wanderers didn't have to go far before they could see Kilimanjaro floating in the distance. The nappers surrendered for a short time to the jet lag we all feel.
The team enjoyed seeing groups of monkeys swinging through the trees of our compound as well as listening to strange birds call out as they cruised overhead.
We enjoyed a group dinner and some storytelling for the evening. It will be hard to leave this luxurious and laid back setting, but the thought of getting walking on the flanks of the largest freestanding mountain in the world is pretty enticing as well.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
We had a beautiful hike down to Lukla today. Lots of greenery and local folk working away in the gardens that abound down here in the 10,000' region. The airport was shut down early this morning due to clouds but as we approached there were a few flights that went in the afternoon. John and Kim are set for the second flight tomorrow weather permitting. The commute from our lodging for the night to the entrance of the airport is about thirty feet, no excuse for missing the flight.
Kim here. . . wow, this has been quite an experience. It was an amazing adventure that I won't forget anytime soon. There were some hard days, some disappointing days, and some really wonderful days. Overall, it was definitely a worthwhile experience. Thanks to all for the comments and good wishes. I'd like to spend my last blog opportunity answering the questions posted yesterday and March 31st from Mrs. Hartman's and Mrs. Jerome's classrooms:
Q: How high are you? A: We were at different altitudes each day. Today we are back in Lukla where we started which is about 9,900ft. The highest we got was about 19,000ft. That was on Island Peak. Q: Did you summit? A: We did not make it to the summit. I am disappointed about that since I was the one who could not make it. The air was very cold and each time I tried to breathe deep, it hurt my lungs. So, I couldn't get enough air to have the energy I needed to keep going. The rest of the team decided to turn around with me. Q: How high is Island Peak? A: Island Peak is 20,300ft, so we still had a long way to go. Q: Have you used your ice ax and climbing harness? A: We did not use our ice axes or crampons on Island Peak because we didn't get high enough, but we did use them during our training session at Everest Base Camp. I'll try to include a photo from that for today. We did have our climbing harnesses on. Q: Which is higher, Island Peak or Everest Base Camp? A: Island Peak is higher than Everest Base Camp. Island Peak is about 20,300ft, Everest Base Camp is 17,575ft. Q: How are you feeling? A: I was feeling pretty sick up high. It is common for people to not feel good when they get that high because of the lack of air pressure and limited oxygen. I am feeling much better now that we are down low again. Q:How many tea houses have you been in? A: Too many to count. We stopped at one or two each day for lunch and afternoon tea. Then we stayed at one each night. Q: What was your favorite dish to eat? A: It depended on the day. Up high, the only thing that sounded good to eat was popcorn. So, I have been eating a lot of that. Down lower, we all like the chicken chilly (spicy chicken. . .spelled differently on every menu). We also liked to eat daal bhat with pappad and veggie curry. Tell Ranish that I like the curry fine, but I prefer it to be a little more spicy than they make it up here. I also forgot to mention the dumplings that are popular here called mo-mos. We had a lot of veggie mo-mos. Q: Are you staying warm? A: I was SO cold many days up there. It was the coldest I have ever been. . . especially while on Island Peak and at Everest Base Camp. I am warmer now that we are lower. Q: Are you having fun or do you wish you were home? A: Both. I have had lots of fun, but when I was cold and sick, I was wishing I was someplace else. I am still very glad that I went to Everest Base Camp, though. It was an amazing place. Q: Are yaks carrying your bags? A: No. Porters are carrying our bags. Those men are really strong. I am impressed by their strength and speed. Q: What is the name of the peak behind you in the photo from today (4/9/12)? A: We all looked at the photo and we think that was the side of Ama Dablam. We have seen so many peaks, it is hard to tell for sure.
Hopefully we will fly out to Kathmandu tomorrow and then to India for a few days after that. Again, thanks to all for your good wishes and your support. We have enjoyed reading your comments the few times we have had internet service.
John here: It's been a while since I made an update. Too long to try to recap the last few days. Like Kim, this has been an experience of a lifetime for me. The Nepalese people are so genuinely warm and welcoming and the scenery is unmatched by anything I have ever experienced. Kim mentioned that we didn't summit Island Peak. While that is a disappointment for all of us, Kim and I did reach a new high. Along the way I learned a lot about myself, my abilities and what's really important. There will be other peaks in our future and we'll both be better prepared to face them.
We hiked out from Namche Bazar today. It was bittersweet. While it meant this part of our journey was coming to an end, it also meant we had hot showers and clean clothes to look forward to. We also have all the wonderful experiences and memories that we worked so hard over the last few weeks to create. Thanks to Tuck we've also met tons of folks along the way, all who added to the texture of the experience.
Thank you to all of you who followed our journey, we look forward to sharing our experiences and pictures with you when we get back. Pop some corn - we have LOTS of pictures.
Namaste.
Hello from the Ngorongoro Wildife Lodge,
We were driving down into the crater at 7:00 am this morning for a full day of game viewing. We saw at least 10,000 animals today, mostly zebra, wildebeest, cape buffalo, and gazelles. But the two black rhinos (mother and baby) is what stole the prize. We first saw them way out in the distance, but they continued to travel in our general direction and so we waited patiently. They ended up crossing right in front of us, about 100 yards away, and we were the only group to see them. Timing is everything when it comes to safari.
We also saw lions, a cheetah, hyenas, a serval cat, and elephants. It was quite a day. After spending the majority of the day in the crater, including a picnic lunch, we headed back up the road to the crater rim. At the top, we stopped at a traditional Masai village to learn about their culture and how they live off the land. It was a lot of fun getting a tour of their huts and watching them perform their traditional dances.
It was then time to head back to our lodge to grab a drink and head out on the patio to watch the sun go down over Ngorongoro Crater.
Tomorrow, we travel to Tarangire National Park where we plan to spend another full day game viewing. The only animal left on our "Big Five List" is the leopard. We have heard that our chances are good that we can see one in Tarangire.
- The Kili Team
Hello bloganeers or whatever you call people who read blogs!
We went to bed with a nebulous forecast and thankfully awoke to optimistic looking skies! Looks like the weather would allow us to climb high and sleep low. We feasted upon a southern favorite, grits and pop tarts for breakfast. Then we racked up our gear and headed towards the fixed lines.
A couple hours of slow but steady walking and we arrived at the gaping maw that is the bergschrund at base of the fixed lines. The team locked and loaded and soon we were climbing up the steep snow and hard blue ice. Shouts of “This is awesome!” and “My fingers are cold,” were heard at various times during our ascent. Topping out the fixed lines rewarded us with beautiful views of the West Ridge of Denali and everyone and everything below us. We dug our cache, tossed in our excess gear and took a couple deep breaths of 16,000-foot air before beginning our descent.
Fleet feet and sturdy arm wraps meant a quick trip back to camp where a large meal of mac and cheese and cheesecake was enjoyed by all! Tomorrow, we let the winds up high blow while we gain strength and acclimate here at 14k camp.
Well, I am definitely a bloganeer! Iook forward to reading this blog and staying up to date with you and your incredible teams progress. Thank you for sharing your journey with all of us. You guys are incredible and you impress all of us with your passion, persistence and endurance! Go team! A special shout out to Heather Hart and reminder that your CBJD Family is here cheering you on! We’ve you so much xoxo
Posted by: Janine Paradiso on 6/13/2022 at 6:18 am
Blogadore here! Please keep them coming and congrats team - you all are making great time!!! Michael know you are having the best time ever!!! Safe travels team and enjoy that Mac and cheese!!!
We had a busy day here in Kathmandu preparing for Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak adventures. We spent the better part of the morning discussing the plan, logistics, and gear needed for the trip, making the final preparations and sort of our gear before loading it all into our duffel bags in anticipation of tomorrow morning's departure. After weeks spent collecting all of the gear we need and thousands of miles of travel to get it here, it is exciting to have everything packed and ready to go.
After lunch we plunged into Kathmandu to visit several of the city's renowned UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Stopping first at the Pashputinath Temple, we walked between the small shrines and many temples dotting the banks of the Baghmati River observing the activities of Nepal's most holy Hindu cremation site. Deep in the heart of this city of 4 million, the temple grounds were bustling with families and ceremonies.
Moving across town a little ways, we then spent some time exploring the Boudhanath Stupa, the largest Buddhist Stupa (temple) in Nepal and the starting point for any pilgrimage the Nepalese Buddhist undertake.
Spanning an area the size of a football field, the sprawling stupa's white washed walls are constantly circled by streams of visitors and worshipers.
We then climbed the long set of stairways to Sawayambunath Stupa.
Nicknamed the Monkey Temple by Kathmandu's hippie visitors in the '60s, the temple grounds sit atop a hill overlooking the city and true to its name, is home to a large number of monkeys that swing from the strings of prayer flags and scramble across the golden roofs of the shrines, all the while waiting patiently for the misattention of a visitor to grab their snacks or drinks.
After the tour we headed into Thamel, the throbbing center of Kathmandu to get dinner. Navigating the narrow streets packed full of shops selling knock-off outdoor gear, taxis, visitors, and street vendors hawking local jewelry, we ate at one of my favorite restaurants in Kathmandu before turning in for the evening. We have an early ride to the airport tomorrow morning for our flight into the mountains to the village of Lukla.
We will check in tomorrow from the Khumbu!
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Jambo to all.
Well we did it, all the “Tucklings” to the top. We tried to give a call from the summit but I’ll tell you, it was cold and breezy, and a half battery wasn’t enough, the charge wasn’t there. But I’m back down here as well as the rest of the team at our high camp, Barafu at 15,000’.
We are going to toute suite out of here. I’m going to have to start poking a few of them with my ski pole, to keep them moving. But we’ll get another 5,000’ to descend to the Mweka Camp. Pretty easy to crawl into the bag and here and take a nap. But, the old machine may seize up so I'm going keep pushing them along.
Everybody did just fantastic. Of course there were a few issues here and there and people were challenged. Half of them said it was probably the hardest thing they’ve ever done in their life physically. And the other half, you know they were lying. So, all is well. I'll try and get this iPAQ thing working again and do a dispatch once we get down to Mweka Camp. I appreciate you guys all checking in. Cheers from Kilimanjaro, Uhuru Peak!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker reports on the team's summit day
Hey, this is Dave calling from Denali. We moved from 17,000' to 11,000' today. There was a lot of new snow down below and we were post holing through deep snow all the way down the West Buttress, down to 14,000' and all the way to 11,000' breaking trail. It all went really well. Today was a nice day, nice, calm and sunny.
Now we are camped at 11,000'. We hope to get up in a few hours and make our way to the airstrip and perhaps be there and ready to fly out tomorrow morning. So, I'll give a call if that happens. Today is Monday so that would be Tuesday morning that we would be at the airstrip if all goes well on the lower glacier. Talk to you soon.
Step by step, up, up and away! Good luck all!
Posted by: John Buckett on 3/17/2023 at 5:50 am
We’re living vicariously through you. So fun to see the pix, and read the stories!
Barry and Nancy Otterholt
Posted by: Barry Otterholt on 3/16/2023 at 7:31 pm
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