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Posted by: Mike King, Jess Matthews
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
In the midst of a great trip with a wonderful group, one of the hardest parts of a guides job is to make the decision to turn a group around and head back to the hut, knowing some climbers will continue up and likely summit.
Last night we woke to a thin cloud and light snow at 15,874’. The group got ready and was optimistic due to the warm air and fresh snow that would make walking the first 1.5 hours on rocky trail easier. However, we had a similar experience on Cayambe that resulted in an electrical storm.
With over 70 people setting out from the hut to climb we got out mid pack and made our way to the toe of the glacier to put crampons on. During this first stretch the moon was bright, reflecting moonlight off the white snow so headlamps didn’t have to be turned on.
As we ascended the glacier, the new snow accumulation had increased from 3” at the hut to 1 foot + at 17,800’. As we pulled into our second break the guides had begun chatting about snow stability and while at the break dug 2 snow pits to better assess what we were traveling on top of. The results were a foot of new snow overnight on top of a 2 inch consolidated snow layer that moved with enough energy early on in the test to reconsider climbing higher. There had been a meter of new snow in the last week without much sun or heat to help consolidate the snowpack.
The terrain above us consisted of larger crevasses and steeper slopes, when combined with new snow avalanche conditions this made for hazards that we could not safely manage. We showed the group a second test and explained our concerns. The guides and climbers are naturally disappointed to have missed another summit and safety has to take precedent. In talking with the Ecuadorean guides, this month has been wetter with more unstable weather patterns then historically seen in December.
We are currently heading back to Quito for showers, packing and flights later tonight. We’ll wrap up a fun trip in that new friends were made, we saw lots of beautiful scenery and spent time in the mountains. We’ll also look forward to the unfinished summits of Cayambe and Cotopaxi on another trip. Thanks for following along.
Posted by: Peter Whittaker, Seth Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Elevation: 15,000'
On The Map
Posted by: Jeff Martin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Posted by: JM Gorum, Grayson Swingle, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 7,300'
Tuesday, May 25, 2021 - 11:33 pm PT
We had another great day here on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Not a cloud in the sky and balmy temperatures made life easy. We woke up a bit earlier today, around 6, ate a quick breakfast and started breaking trail up towards our first climbing objective. Radio Control Tower is a peak located just outside of Base Camp. We made good time getting up to the ridge, and put a lot of different climbing techniques to use.
We got back to camp and hid from the sun in our tents for the early part of the afternoon. Once it cooled off a bit we practiced some crevasse rescue systems around the tents, with the hopes of finding a suitable crack to practice around tomorrow.
Everyone is adjusting quite well to glacier life. We’ve already got a book club in the making, and our nightly live-broadcast podcast is really taking off. Everyone sends their best to the folks back home! You’ll hear from us again tomorrow.
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Andy Bond, Ben Luedtke, Dominic Cifelli, Jack Delaney, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 13,000'
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Andy Bond led their team of climbers on the Five Day Climb May 3 - 7 to 13,000' today before deteriorating weather forced them to turn around.
The team completed their Mountaineering School on Tuesday and ascended to Camp Muir yesterday for their first night at 10,080'. They will return to Camp Muir today for their final night on the mountain. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp tomorrow.
A valiant climb made by all! Good work, climbers. Sorry you did not reach the summit, but glad for your safety. <3
Posted by: Lauren Kraft on 5/7/2021 at 9:20 am
Bummer.
Hope they get the chance and make the summit.
Posted by: Don West on 5/6/2021 at 9:56 pm
On The Map
Thank you for telling about your climb to the summit of Kala Patar…it sounds like something I would like to summit for the awesome view of Mt. Everest. I’m adding it to my list of things to do when I do my EBC trek…as long as it’s not a technical climb.
Posted by: Lynn Via on 3/31/2013 at 7:36 pm
Mt. Everest will be forever blessed now that you have flown the Notre Dame Leprechaun and McMunn’s flags, as you promised. So proud of you, Billy.
Posted by: Dee Brown on 3/31/2013 at 7:33 pm
On The Map
James
I see you made the plane flight. How was that landing?? good luck man.
Posted by: Wayne on 3/27/2013 at 9:45 am
all the best as you journey to high places!
Posted by: michelle on 3/26/2013 at 6:59 pm
On The Map
Keep at it Jeff,
You are a continued source of inspiration! Stay safe and enjoy each moment!
Our love and thoughts,
Erik and Meredith
P.S. Got the postcard-love it. Cheers!!
Posted by: Erik on 5/18/2011 at 10:20 pm
David,
Paul and I are sending good weather vibes your way! Have a safe climb!
Laura
Posted by: Laura Piccard on 5/17/2011 at 1:44 pm
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Adam Knoff, Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Shishapangma
Elevation: 19,500'
Is the climb over? Reports done from the mountain?
Posted by: Jeff Olson on 10/4/2016 at 7:22 am
We can not imagine how are you feelling right now.
Just send you all our power.
Posted by: Martín de Andrés on 10/2/2016 at 8:05 am
On The Map
Hey everyone, hope your still killing it up there and telling some good jokes (hopefully not canadian related). You guys are the best and I can’t wait to hear about the trip, I miss you all alot!
O, before I forget… lee here is an intro to the north-dakota jokes i’ve come across.. many more to come.
Q: Why did North Dakota raise the minimum drinking age to 25?
A: They wanted to keep alcohol out of the high schools!
Q: How do you know the toothbrush was invented in North Dakota?
A: If it was invented anywhere else, it would have been called a teethbrush.
Take tons of pictures for me on the summit!
Lots of love from Calgary,
Sasha
Posted by: sasha selby on 6/23/2012 at 11:57 pm
Great post and update! Good job everyone….Guides included. We would not get very far without our awesome mountain guides! I am not paid to say that by the way. :)
Posted by: Mark on 6/23/2012 at 10:15 pm
A book club in the making. Now THAT is not what you’d expect to learn is happening up on a glacier. Shows the balance of working both body and mind though. So rock on!
Posted by: Melanee Strootman on 5/26/2021 at 12:17 pm
Way to go team, keep up the good work. The view looks amazing.
Posted by: Frances Shaw on 5/26/2021 at 7:22 am
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