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Posted by: Mike King, Dominic Cifelli, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 10,550'
Aconcagua team reaches Casa de Piedra. Yesterday we had a nice overcast four hour day into Pampa las Lena's. This has been a windy and rainy trip so far. We had a nice asado last night and to celebrate New Years. We'll enjoy a quiet/unstaffed camp. We are hopeful that the rain holds off for tomorrow as we head to Plaza Argentina basecamp.
RMI Guide Mike King
Posted by: Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Saturday June 11, 2022 – 10:54pm PT
Hello bloganeers or whatever you call people who read blogs!
We went to bed with a nebulous forecast and thankfully awoke to optimistic looking skies! Looks like the weather would allow us to climb high and sleep low. We feasted upon a southern favorite, grits and pop tarts for breakfast. Then we racked up our gear and headed towards the fixed lines.
A couple hours of slow but steady walking and we arrived at the gaping maw that is the bergschrund at base of the fixed lines. The team locked and loaded and soon we were climbing up the steep snow and hard blue ice. Shouts of “This is awesome!” and “My fingers are cold,” were heard at various times during our ascent. Topping out the fixed lines rewarded us with beautiful views of the West Ridge of Denali and everyone and everything below us. We dug our cache, tossed in our excess gear and took a couple deep breaths of 16,000-foot air before beginning our descent.
Fleet feet and sturdy arm wraps meant a quick trip back to camp where a large meal of mac and cheese and cheesecake was enjoyed by all! Tomorrow, we let the winds up high blow while we gain strength and acclimate here at 14k camp.
Thanks for tuning in blogadors!
Well, I am definitely a bloganeer! Iook forward to reading this blog and staying up to date with you and your incredible teams progress. Thank you for sharing your journey with all of us. You guys are incredible and you impress all of us with your passion, persistence and endurance! Go team! A special shout out to Heather Hart and reminder that your CBJD Family is here cheering you on! We’ve you so much xoxo
Posted by: Janine Paradiso on 6/13/2022 at 6:18 am
Blogadore here! Please keep them coming and congrats team - you all are making great time!!! Michael know you are having the best time ever!!! Safe travels team and enjoy that Mac and cheese!!!
Kim and Jim
Posted by: Kim on 6/12/2022 at 11:07 am
Yesterday, we woke at 7am just before our welcomed friend, the sun, hit our trailhead camp. After finishing the last of our packing that was put on hold from the thunder and hail the previous night, we had a warm breakfast and donned our climbing packs for the first time on the trip. Conditions were mostly snowy and cloudy on the trail to Campo Alto, but the team managed to make good time nonetheless. In 4.5 hours we arrived, ready to set up tents before the afternoon hail storm set in. Taking shelter to cook in the Refugio, we had the camp to ourselves and enjoyed warm ramen and quesadillas. The team then got their climbing kits ready and took to the tents early to maximize rest for the upcoming summit push tomorrow.
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Nikki Champion
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Nikki Champion climbed into a cloud cap with rain and wind, this forced the team turned at 13,200' on Mt. Rainier. Despite turning before the summit due to weather, the sunrise at the top of the cleaver was very rewarding!
The team is back at Camp Muir and will be descending soon.
Congratulations Team!
Howard and howie so amazing and your awesome. Get back down safely
Posted by: Favorite sister and Jim on 8/7/2021 at 10:32 am
Congratulations to all the climbers!
Posted by: Katie on 8/7/2021 at 9:57 am
Posted by: Drew O’Brien, Nick Sinapius, Arianna Drechsler, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland, Stella Johnson, Claire Pennell
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb July 15 - 18 led by RMI Guides Drew O'Brien and Leif Bergstrom reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 7 am. The team reported a warm morning with low winds and cloud deck below near 6,000'. The teams spent a bit of time on the summit before starting their descent. Once back at Camp Muir the climbers will repack and continue the remaining 4,500' to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
PC: Drew O'Brien
Congratulations! Was this via DC route? I’m assuming the ladders are back up now on that route? Thank you!
Posted by: Johnny on 7/19/2024 at 6:08 am
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Adam Knoff, Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Shishapangma
Elevation: 19,500'
Is the climb over? Reports done from the mountain?
Posted by: Jeff Olson on 10/4/2016 at 7:22 am
We can not imagine how are you feelling right now.
Just send you all our power.
Posted by: Martín de Andrés on 10/2/2016 at 8:05 am
On The Map
Go Team Nugent!! Billy - excited to follow your progress on this trip. I should have gotten my stuff together last week and gone with you guys. Hopefully Cotopaxi with you in June. Safe travels in the meantime
Posted by: matt wilburn on 2/6/2012 at 5:20 pm
Big Bruce -following you here in hot Northern va.Guys at S&H worldgate also. Any chicks with you!
Posted by: ED Gramm on 2/6/2012 at 6:29 am
Posted by: Mike King, Jess Matthews
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
In the midst of a great trip with a wonderful group, one of the hardest parts of a guides job is to make the decision to turn a group around and head back to the hut, knowing some climbers will continue up and likely summit.
Last night we woke to a thin cloud and light snow at 15,874’. The group got ready and was optimistic due to the warm air and fresh snow that would make walking the first 1.5 hours on rocky trail easier. However, we had a similar experience on Cayambe that resulted in an electrical storm.
With over 70 people setting out from the hut to climb we got out mid pack and made our way to the toe of the glacier to put crampons on. During this first stretch the moon was bright, reflecting moonlight off the white snow so headlamps didn’t have to be turned on.
As we ascended the glacier, the new snow accumulation had increased from 3” at the hut to 1 foot + at 17,800’. As we pulled into our second break the guides had begun chatting about snow stability and while at the break dug 2 snow pits to better assess what we were traveling on top of. The results were a foot of new snow overnight on top of a 2 inch consolidated snow layer that moved with enough energy early on in the test to reconsider climbing higher. There had been a meter of new snow in the last week without much sun or heat to help consolidate the snowpack.
The terrain above us consisted of larger crevasses and steeper slopes, when combined with new snow avalanche conditions this made for hazards that we could not safely manage. We showed the group a second test and explained our concerns. The guides and climbers are naturally disappointed to have missed another summit and safety has to take precedent. In talking with the Ecuadorean guides, this month has been wetter with more unstable weather patterns then historically seen in December.
We are currently heading back to Quito for showers, packing and flights later tonight. We’ll wrap up a fun trip in that new friends were made, we saw lots of beautiful scenery and spent time in the mountains. We’ll also look forward to the unfinished summits of Cayambe and Cotopaxi on another trip. Thanks for following along.
RMI Everest Expedition Leader, Dave Hahn, calling in from Camp 1.
On The Map
Phantastic and best wishes to all of you!
You passed the first barrier and I hope you arrived safe in Camp 2! It´s really great to follow your climb!
Sunny weather and good health to everybody - Ute
Posted by: Ute Novak on 4/24/2015 at 7:21 am
Dave & Team - absolutely fascinating following your journey. I wake up at 2 AM to read the blogs now. They are becoming very interesting—passing the icefalls and making high camp. :) Be safe.
Posted by: Mary on 4/24/2015 at 6:35 am
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike Uchal, Zeb Blais
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
On The Map
John and crew, Stay strong! I am pulling for the weather to begin to work in your favor. You have been so patient ....hang in there! love, dee
Posted by: Deann on 7/7/2012 at 12:46 pm
Nelson, sympathy for Mother Nature at 17,000 camp. I know you toughed out cold and wind, and I hope you can recharge and warm a bit at 14,000 camp. I know you may be disappointed, but few have ever been to 17,000 on Denali. Hang in there and maybe the weather will break and reward perseverance. Love you, stay safe. Dad
Posted by: Bill on 7/7/2012 at 10:10 am
Happy New Year! Glad the weather has changed for you.
Wander is missing you but had a few good runs at the Cary trails. XO Momma & Dad
Posted by: Momma on 1/1/2023 at 11:29 am
Happy New Year!! Took the tree down today- pine needles everywhere haha! Missing you, Alison! Xoxo Lydia, Matt & Wilhelmina
Posted by: Lydia on 1/1/2023 at 11:26 am
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