We awoke at 11pm at the Cayambe hut to get an alpine start on our climb. Unfortunately, when we took a look outside we encountered sideways rain. We continued to monitor the weather throughout the night with hopes of getting a late start on the climb. Finally, around 5 am the wind and rain subsided enough for us to get out of the hut and do some climbing. By that time our we could not reasonably make it to the summit and back. We climbed up to 17,000 feet and did some training in the morning sun. That was a new high point for most of the team! Resting today in a beautiful hacienda outside Quito. Here we’ll learn crevasse rescue and set out sites on the next volcano, Antisana.
Today was our last day in Mendoza before heading closer to the mountains. At the thought of leaving the comforts of civilization all the climbers made sure to indulge in one last cup of gelato from the corner tienda. After ice cream we were required to complete one last covid test while in town before we would be approved to enter the park. Don’t worry! Everyone on the team was negative. With climbing permits in hand we moved higher into the mountains through the deep valleys of the Andes. We left the hot and dry Mendoza valley behind and entered the beautiful, lush village of Uspallata where we were relieved to find much cooler temperatures and a bit of afternoon rain. Soon after arriving at the Grand Hotel Uspallata, we got to work packing our expedition duffels for the mule team that would ferry our heavy gear up to basecamp for us. After many hours of packing and sorting group gear we sat down to a wonderful group dinner, our last indoors for awhile, before turning in for some much needed rest. Tomorrow we start our trek to basecamp and the first leg of our journey to the summit. Wish us luck and stayed tuned for the next episode of Aconcagua 2022!
Wednesday, July 10, 2013
Last night's snow shower turned into the "heavy fall of snow" that we've been promised on a daily basis by our forecasts these last ten days. It snowed, it snowed and then it snowed some more here at 14,200 ft. We estimated that it was coming down at a rate of 3 inches per hour. Zeb got out at three to rally a shovel brigade in retaking the camp from the tent-bending powder deluge. We could hear great avalanches roaring repeatedly down the steep and icy flanks of the West Buttress. It didn't ease until around nine in the morning, by which point we figured about 24 inches had fallen overnight. Needless to say, today was not a climbing day for us. The wind was still pulling huge streamers of snow off the route we'd hoped to trace along the crest of the Buttress. And the slopes leading to the ridge were now all suspect in terms of snow stability. So much snow falling so quickly doesn't give the stuff a chance to settle. One of the ways it settles on a mountainside is to avalanche. There was plenty of visual evidence (when the clouds parted for a minute here and there) that a number of avalanches had already occurred on the route to the fixed ropes, but there were also still vast stretches of undisturbed deep new snow. We needed a hot and sunny day to glue things in place and to make it all safe again. But you can't always get what you need. Our day was mostly cloudy with light snow showers. Zebulon gave a great lesson in basic snow science, demonstrating how to identify weak layers in the snow pack, how to compare the hardness of those layers, and in how to conduct a "compression test" on an isolated column of snow in a study pit. Our climbers then dug their own pits and made their own observations as a way of understanding our challenge in these next few days. We need to figure out the level of hazard that exists on the slopes above us without exposing ourselves to that very hazard. And we don't have much time to do it in. We only have a couple more days of food available. Our greater cache of food is now the one sitting above the suspect slopes... In perfect position for our summit bid, but out of our reach until we determine that the avalanche hazard has diminished. Lots to figure out on Denali. We aren't alone though. The other teams, mostly at 17 camp have similar dilemmas What we all need, first and foremost, is a break from continued bad weather. As is normal, we need a little good luck. Despite the challenges, the team is still in good spirits. Today, we went over the blog comments together. We can't surf the web with our setup, but the RMI office was kind enough to cut and paste the comments into an email for us. Thanks, from the entire team, for keeping us in your thoughts.
Best Regards
Dave Hahn
Buenas Noches from Quito!
Today was a great day by all accounts. We hit the trail early today, catching a ride to the teleferico for the first can up the mountain. A quick ride and we were perched well above Quito, looking down from 13,500 feet above the sea. As we readied ourselves for our hike, Cotopaxi even graced us with an appearance. Solid start to a day.
Walking towards Rucu Pinchincha we spent a few hours ascending to 15,500 feet. The team did a fantastic job today, brushing up on some skills and generally impressing Ben and I. A great day of acclimatizing is never complete without a cup of coffee for the ride down to town, so we obliged happily.
After an afternoon rest it was dinner time and we enjoyed our best meal so far, carbo loading like champs in fine style and waddling home to rest up for our trip to the Illinizas tomorrow. Off to a great start over here.
RMI Guides Jake Beren & Ben Liken
Hi everyone we are on top of the Barranco Wall. The team is good aside from a few stomach issues. We'll get a nice long rest this afternoon at Karanga Valley. Wish us luck.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Tom, Bob and Eddie - you know that Jim Citrano is referring to your mother’s genetics! But it is also a tribute to your determination and training. Hopefullly, you and your colleagues all make it to the top. Everyone below is rooting for all of you.
Dad
Posted by: Thomas Leonard on 8/6/2012 at 7:29 am
I love checking in on what you are doing with this blog! Amazing!! Quite inspirational! I hope you are enjoying every second of it…and I hope your stomach isn’t one of the issues. Keep on kicking ass Tamara!!!
XO
ALICIA
Last night, after the snow firmed up enough for efficient travel, we packed up camp and moved up to our new camp at 9600'; this included tackling Ski Hill, our first big hill of the trip. Everyone did a great job hauling sleds and heavy packs up to camp. We slept in this morning (8 hours of sleep!) and had a relaxing brunch in our newly constructed cook tent. We are planning to lounge around a bit, rehydrating and resting, in preparation for our next move up to 11,200'. The weather is nice right now, with partly cloudy skies and a moderate wind out of the north. We'll be in touch again soon, hopefully nestled into a cozy camp at 11,200'.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Wishing everyone a continued safe hike. Please pass on to Dr. Riester that we wish him a wonderful time, and a continued safe adventure. Keeping everyone in our prayers. Enjoy the beauty of nature !!!
Posted by: Lisa VanNostran on 6/19/2012 at 7:22 am
Wow, and we are going to be in the 90’s in Vermont.
Have a wonderful time and we will watch for news!
Posted by: Helen and Toons on 6/18/2012 at 12:02 pm
Lulled to sleep by rock and icefall, what a night at Everest Base Camp. A few comments that it was the best dinner since arriving in country. Short lived this time, we are already back in Pheriche gearing up for Island Peak. Should be deep sleep tonight here in the thick air of 14,000 ft. We'll bid farewell to the Trek team in the morning. As usual a whirlwind tour for the group. Lots of firsts for all. Once again the mountains provided fantastic views with perfect weather. Times like these are what bring you back to challenge the physical and mental. In time the photos will overshadow the tough conditions you are subjected to on trips like these. Maybe Hawaii next time, but I bet down the road another adventure of this type just can't be avoided.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
L & P- A Dream realized!....and you are changed forever!! Kudos. YEA!!
You epitomize YMNTBP!! Our Congrats to the entire team!! Thanks again, Mark…yes we think more Adventures will be in the offing!
Much love M & G
Posted by: Gretchen & Mike on 4/2/2013 at 9:06 am
just love following “team tucker”!!! what an adventure!!! safe trek to pheriche!!! tons of hugs buzz…Nancy
It's Casey and Billy checking in from down south! We've been hanging out in Quito for the last couple of days and the whole crew is already having a blast, and being situated at over 9,000 ft, we've already begun our acclimatization for our climbs. The first day around town was excellent. After a great breakfast at "Spicy" aka the hotel restaurant, we hit the town on a city tour to get a dose of history and colonial architecture. We had the chance to visit the Basilica, Presidential Palace, among other incredible buildings dating back from Spanish colonial times. This place is OLD, compared to American cities. Quito was founded in 1532! After the city tour, the group split. Half of the team headed to the Plaza de Toros and the other half went to a cool museum along the equator. The crew at the plaza had the fortune to witness a series of bullfights. Definitely barbaric but also a unique cultural experience unique to countries with Spanish influence. The other team enjoyed the interesting exhibits and experiments at the equatorial museum. The evening brought a lively night out for the team. After reuniting back at the hotel everyone went out for an amazing dinner. Local music and dancing was a great addition to the dining experience. Filet Mignon, Malbec? Who knew that you could acclimatize in such style!
Day 2 has thus far been a blast as well. The entire team headed up to the volcano Pichincha for a little exercise to help with the acclimation process. After a 40 minute gondola ride we were deposited high on the slopes of the volcano and were greeted by sweeping views of Cayambe and the city below. The high point for our hike brought us to approximately 14,300 ft.; nearly the summit of Mt. Rainier! The whole team is climbing and acclimating well thus far. Tonight, being Sunday, will hopefully turn out to be a bit quieter than the previous but we still plan to have another nice meal out on the town! Tomorrow we will to leave the city following an early wake-up and head out to the Illinizas for some more training.
We hope all is well back home and will check back in as the trip progresses.
Viva Quito!
We continue to wait and be patient as less then ideal weather hangs onto Denali. Another breakfast of bagels and locks was well received by the team and has helped to keep spirits high. Waiting and being patient is an often overlooked skill necessary for expeditionary climbing. Our team is leaning wholeheartedly into this. After more rest the afternoon was filled with fixed line training In preparation for our continued ascent. Hopes are high for an opportunity to carry and climb above the fixed lines.
Go Steve!!! Good luck!
Posted by: Kristi on 1/10/2022 at 4:20 pm
Good luck, stay safe I will be following your progress
Posted by: Stephen WAHMAN on 1/10/2022 at 7:02 am
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