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Mt. Everest Expedition: Hahn & Sherpa Team Make Another Attempt to Get to Camp One

April 20, 2015

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 17,575'

Another early morning, another attempt to get through the Khumbu Icefall. Thwarted. We were still hoping to accomplish a recon/carry and so I headed out with our Sherpa climbing team at 4:30 AM. As we started, the Sherpa teams ahead of us formed a solid parade of headlights, snaking up through the glacier in the darkness. We made fine progress though, easily passing our highpoint from the other day. That last time the weather was poor, and this time it was perfect, so we could see everything we needed and wanted to see about the climbing route. Our luck ran out near the top of the technical difficulties when we skidded to a stop at 7 AM at the tail end of a monumental traffic jam. We spent 90 minutes inching upward, stomping our feet to stay warm (we were still in deep and cool shadows), and alternately eyeballing the ice towers hanging over our heads and the nearby site of last year's tragic avalanche. Finally, with perhaps a hundred Sherpas at full stop between ourselves and a fairly difficult wall climb, we determined that we'd pushed our luck far enough. We descended, cached the load at the icefall's midpoint and got ourselves out of the line of fire and on our way back to Basecamp. Sherpas and climbers did eventually make camp one and even camp two on this day, but the missions took perhaps three times as long as they should have, with much of that time spent at risk... Not for us. We reached sunny and safe Base Camp shortly after JJ Justman had departed with our team for a Pumori Camp One hike. The route needs more work and we conveyed this idea as best we were able to the Icefall Doctors and their administrators. In general terms, it takes a safer path than the routes of recent years, but more work needs to be done and more ladders need to be fixed in order to handle the Sherpa traffic, let alone the less skilled foreign climbers who will soon hit the climb in great numbers. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Don’t we go to the mountains to get away from traffic jams! You exhibit that all important combination of dogged determination with prudence that is so important up there. Glad the weather is moderating, which I hope will facilitate more progress soon. A special hello to J J and thanks for the birthday greeting to my son, Zac (Zeke).

Best wishes to all for a safe, successful ascent.

Posted by: Everett Moran on 4/21/2015 at 7:45 am

Glad you are a safety guy. Hate to think of the frontline team in the risk zone while awaiting a traffic jam. Be well. Sending my best. xo

Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 4/20/2015 at 2:48 pm

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Dhaulagiri: RMI Guides Spend a Night at Camp 1 and are Back in Basecamp

April 12, 2014

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News

Elevation: 15,584'

Hello, this is Dhaulagiri climbing team on Saturday, April 12th. We have come back to base camp. We had made a move to Camp 1 and spent last night up there. We were forced to move down because of the bad weather. However that was pretty much the plan after moving up there and caching some gear and spend at least a night for acclimatization. We have about a foot of snow at base camp and we got about 1 1/2 feet at Camp 1 last night. Looks like the trend is going to be like that for the next couple of days and we are going to wait it out down here. We'll keep you posted on the move. So far the "mountain of storms." We will see what happens. Hope everyone is doing well and we'll check in later. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Dhaulagiri Basecamp.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

STAY SAFE, my brave caballeros!

Posted by: nsb on 4/18/2014 at 11:35 am

Elias: Fingers crossed that you and your team get some good weather in the coming days. Hang in there!!!

Chris Palmer

Posted by: Chris Palmer on 4/13/2014 at 6:37 pm

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team at High Camp

January 27, 2014

Posted by: JJ Justman, Steve Gately, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 19,600'

Unrelenting! That is the word that describes our weather on Aconcagua. Last night we received 10 inches of snow. When we awoke this morning the winds had scoured most of that snow off the mountain leaving several deep drifts around camp. Thankfully the weather settled down a bit and we were able to break camp and pack up. The scene looked more like Denali in Alaska than Aconcagua in the Andes. The team did great in the harsh conditions. It would have even made The Godfather of Denali, Joe Horiskey, proud as the team worked together in cold, blustery winds. We are now sitting in silence at high camp enjoying the sun at 19,600 feet. The team has run its final days. Tomorrow is our only shot. Then we have to head downhill. As luck I believe has it, the forecast is for light winds on top. We will touch base tomorrow, keep your fingers crossed, it should be from the top! RMI Guide JJ Justman

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

You can do it! Saying prayers for good weather for you and will sacrifice something to the weather Gods for you. You are the best. Very proud of you!
Cutter dog says Hi!
Love,
Mary

Posted by: Mary fox on 1/28/2014 at 7:31 am

Incredible! You guys have dealt with an unbelievable amount of varied weather conditions! Looks like the mountain is giving it everything she has to you guys…well done for doing such an excellent job! We are so proud of you, dad (Lew Smith)! I know this is the toughest climb you’ve ever done, but from what it sounds like, you and the team are doing awesome! Just like I did in the Marine Corps, you remember your training. When the poo poo hits the fan, your hard work and training kicks into gear, and I’m quite sure that’s what it has been doing for you while on Aconcagua. Keep it up, dad! You guys are so close. I pray that you have good weather conditions, so that you have a window of time to go for the summit. We will see what Aconcagua will do; if she will allow you and the team to stand on top. I hope so! Best of luck and climb on!!!

Love ya,

Kyle and Steph

Posted by: Kyle A. Smith on 1/28/2014 at 5:32 am

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Aconcagua: JJ & Team in Los Penitentes

January 5, 2013

Posted by: JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 9,000'

We have arrived in the quaint little ski town of Penitentes. It was nice enjoying the "good life" in Mendoza. However, it's a refreshing change getting into the high desert mountains near Aconcagua. The team organized our gear to be carried in by the mules. Then it was quickly off to dinner at Hotel Ayelen. I'd like to joke that it was the team's last good meal. However, we have several kilos of filet mignon and fresh chickens to grill and I'm planning on making my 2001 award winning homemade pesto served over hand made angel hair pasta. Sorry, we won't send photos of that, don't want to make you too jealous. RMI Guide JJ Justman

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Give er hell Greg, safe trip, take thousands of pictures!

Posted by: Kim on 1/6/2013 at 2:40 pm

Happy Hiking Uncle Greg. - K
Hi(gh) - T

safe hiking bro - cb

Posted by: Tianna and Kiera on 1/6/2013 at 11:18 am

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Mt. Elbrus: Team Waiting Out the Wind

August 30, 2012

Posted by: Seth Waterfall, JJ Justman

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside

Elevation: 12,500'

What to do when the wind is blowing 70 mph at Camp 1 on Mt. Elbrus? That is the question. And the answer is tough filled with so many choices. Read my book? Nope, forgot it at base camp. Read Seth's Harper magazine? Done. Drink hot drinks? Check! The team was productive today at Camp 1. We secured our tents for the heavy winds and during a lull we went down and retrieved our cache at 11,500 feet. We now are sitting on a stockpile of food and fuel so Bring it On wind! Everyone is feeling great at 12,500 feet. And a little adversity does a body good. I just hope my iTunes movie hasn't expired on my iPhone! RMI Guide J.J. Justman

On The Map

Aconcagua: Cifelli & Team Moving to Guanacos Tres (Camp 2)

January 31, 2023

Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Jack Delaney, Jess Wedel

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Monday, January 30, 2023

It takes the sun seven minutes to send its rays to Earth. It likely took the same amount of time for those rays to wake up the team once the sun was shining upon camp. We awoke to sapphire blue skies with out a cloud to been seen. The temperature quickly began to climb as the solar radiation has little to deflect it at this altitude. We too would soon be climbing but not quickly! Here on this mighty stone sentinel, we are but turtles, slowly but surely heading uphill. A symphony of grunts, moans and creaking joints was heard as the team emerged from their tents. A most excellent breakfast of bacon, eggs and bagel sandwiches was served slowly, giving everyone time for their coffee to kick in and to slowly stretch and limber up their bodies. Today is our third day on the move and the team is feeling the repeated days of exertion at these high altitudes. This continued movement uphill with no rest days since basecamp is not a punishment for poor expedition behavior, but instead a strategic move. Getting to Camp 2 (also known as Guanacos Three) will put us within striking distance of Camp 3 and the summit. We will rest here, acclimatize, and wait for the best possible summit day to appear. Tonight we will settle into our new altitude, enjoying each others stories during dinner while we sit outside basking in the pleasant weather, taking in the magnanimous views of the Argentinian Andes laid out below us, as far as the eye can see.

With much love from high above,

RMI Guide Jack “Gator” Delaney and the team.

Ecuador Volcanoes: Knoff & Team’s Acclimatization Hike on Rucu Pichincha

January 23, 2020

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Dustin Wittmier

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 15,400'

Today our Ecuador Volcanoes team set out on the first of many uphill travels planned for the next ten days. We like to think that our strategic planning plays a big role in our future success, which is why I ordered up some nice weather and arranged for a cable car to whisk us from 10,000 feet to 13,000 as to not over stress many sea level lungs.

Our goal today was to ascend the 15,400 foot Pichincha Rucu volcano, a stone's throw outside the city in order acclimate for bigger objectives down the road. With a starting zone of 13,000 feet, this hike is usually very manageable from the top of the cable car in five hours, give or take. Upon arriving at the upper station the weather, unsettled for the last two days, showed signs of grumpiness but played nice as we prepared go. A wild hitchhiker latched onto Jerome’s shirt and hand, quietly calling daddy, daddy, but after five minutes of hiking changed his mind, flying to Willie thinking his orange pack looked more suiting than Jerome’s yellow shirt. Both would make fine fathers.

Once on the trail we could not have asked for better walking conditions. Thick clouds kept the temps down which was nice but obscured our view of the upper mountain. The steep parts weren’t too slick so the entire team made good and steady progress upwards until there was no more up to be had. After a cloudy 20 minutes on top we descended down with no issues and still no rain which landed us back at the hotel around 4:00.

We ate a great meal and then prepared for the upcoming climb tomorrow. Stay tuned for more sports action.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey everyone…Just want you all to know I did write a comment yesterday. In fact I wrote it twice as best as I could remember what I said. I didn’t see it anywhere so Whynde…don’t think mama forgot you and the group. Today I can see my Comment so I’m thinking it’ll be good from now on. Wish I would have printed yesterday’s words of wisdom but…onward and upward. LUMTA 1TF

Posted by: Geri Kuehn on 1/24/2020 at 1:26 pm

Hello everyone…I sure hope you’re getting my words of encouragement to all of you. Love the group picture. I have a book titled “Believe in Yourself”. Today’s profound words of wisdom are thanks to Erma Bombeck. Most of you are probably too young to even know who she is. She took life with a grain of salt and a smile.

There are people who put their dreams in a little box and say, “Yes, I’ve got dreams, of course, I’ve got dreams.” Then they put the box away and bring it out once in a while and look in it, and yep, they’re still there. These are great dreams, but they never even get out of the box. It takes an uncommon amount of guts to put your dreams on the line, to hold them up and say, “How good or how bad am I?” That’s where the courage comes in.

Have a great day!!! Make good progress!!! Remember it just takes one step at a time!!! GOOD LUCK TO ALL OF YOU!!! LUMTA 1TF

Posted by: Geri Kuehn on 1/24/2020 at 1:18 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Get Ready in Talkeetna

June 27, 2013

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Zeb Blais, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 358'

Wednesday, June 26th, 2013 The climbing team ate a hardy breakfast at The Talkeetna Roadhouse. We talked climbing and safety as we chewed bacon and swilled coffee. Our excellent meal prepared us for a giant day of packing and organizing to fly on to Denali. Longtime legendary NPS climbing ranger Roger Robinson gave our pre-climb briefing at the ranger station, after which we trooped on out to the K2 Aviation hangar to get into the nuts and bolts of getting our gear ready for the mountain. We worked through some unbelievably hot hours, checking tents, stoves, ropes, pots and clothes. Massive cumulonimbus clouds formed as the day went along and thunder boomed, but the storm never really hit Talkeetna. We enjoyed a great dinner together at the popular West Rib Pub and then turned in. All were intent on resting up from this big and busy day to be ready for a bigger and busier day tomorrow, hopefully one that gets us onto Denali. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

To Max and my Dad: Wanted to let you know that although the wifi here is limited, I’m still able to check up on the blog at least once a day. Thinking of you and wishing you the best! Have a safe climb!

Posted by: Ellie on 6/27/2013 at 12:26 pm

Dave Hahn and Team -

Sounds like that warm weather is still hanging around up there. I’ve followed some of the previous RMI teams and they were all hit with hot weather at some point during their climbs.

I bet the lower Kahiltna has opened up quite a bit and you will have a severe zig-zag path through that area.
Have a safe climb!

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/27/2013 at 8:07 am

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Mt. Elbrus: Mallory & Team Settle in at 12,000’

July 11, 2012

Posted by: Linden Mallory

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Elevation: 12,000'

The thick rain clouds that have been covering the region for the last several days began to dissipate overnight. Leaving our hotel this morning, the sky above was a patchy mix of clouds and blue sky. We loaded our mountain gear into our van and made the ten minute drive up the valley to the tiny village of Azau. In Azau we hauled our gear from the van and through the base terminal of the tram station. A few minutes later the red cabin dropped down from the station above and we piled our team and gear into the tram. We made two tram rides, going from the green valley floor to the top station, sitting on a rocky morraine along the edges of Elbrus' glaciers. To get our gear the final 700' we took turns loading our duffels, packs, and climbers onto a little single seater chairlift. Despite the slow moving chairs it was still a tricky transfer to put on and pull off the bags from the chairs as they swung by. Nevertheless, it was a smooth process and by midday we were settled into out bunks in the Garabashi Huts, a series of old diesel tanks that have been converted into bunk rooms. Despite the long cylindrical shape, they are quite comfortable inside, especially when the hail and rain starts up outside. After a great lunch of borsch, meats, cheeses, and French toast we set off on an acclimatization hike. The clouds once again settled onto the mountain, although with no moisture in them. We climbed for a couple of hours, ascending the glacier right above the hut and getting used to hiking in climbing boots and traveling on snow. After reaching just over 13,000' we turned around and descended back to the hut. We are resting in the huts now before dinner. Everyone climbed well today, making the transition from low elevation trails to the high altitude snows well. After close to a week of traveling to reach this mountain, we are happy to be here and comfortable in the huts. Tomorrow we are planning on making our final acclimatization hike up to Pastuhkova Rocks at 15,000' before resting on Friday. We will check-in when we return from the hike. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

On The Map

Aconcagua: Team Moves to High Camp

February 13, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 19,600'

Hey everybody, it's Billy checking in for the entire crew. We woke up this morning to beautiful blue sky and calm winds and finally the storm broke for us. So we packed up our stuff and left Chopper Camp. We just moved in here at Camp Cholera and looks like this weather is gonna be holding for us through the evening and tomorrow and that makes tonight our summit attempt so will be getting up pretty early in the morning tomorrow and if all goes according to plan, we’ll be standing on top of the Americas, the summit of Aconcagua. We will give you guys a phone call and check in tomorrow at the end of the day and let you know how things went. Wish us luck. Talk later. Ciao. RMI Guide Billy Nugent

RMI Guide Billy Nugent talks about the planned summit attempt for tomorrow.

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Most Popular Entries

Mt. Everest Expedition: Hahn & Sherpa Team Make Another Attempt to Get to Camp One

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team at High Camp

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Aconcagua: JJ & Team in Los Penitentes

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Mt. Elbrus: Team Waiting Out the Wind

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Aconcagua: Cifelli & Team Moving to Guanacos Tres (Camp 2)

Ecuador Volcanoes: Knoff & Team’s Acclimatization Hike on Rucu Pichincha

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Get Ready in Talkeetna

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Mt. Elbrus: Mallory & Team Settle in at 12,000’

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Aconcagua: Team Moves to High Camp

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