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Greetings everyone, The team has adjusted to our new home and daily routines. Everyone seems to be feeling well and we are all excited about heading higher. There has been plenty of training on the lower glacier and several acclimatization hikes that leave us feeling we are ready for the next step. Our new goal will be to ascend the famous Khumbu Icefall. We have already had a few small forays into the lower glacier and everyone did great. The Icefall starts just a few feet from camp and ascends a little over 2,000 ft to Camp One. Our goal will be to ascend the icefall as quickly, safely, and comfortably as we can. It won't be a race, but more like a slow, steady climb to camp. We are hoping it takes no longer than 6 to 7 hours for our first trip. If all goes well we will spend a few days at Camp One and might even venture up the Western Cwm to Camp Two. George Mallory himself named the Western Cwm (Cwm being a Welsh word meaning valley). The weather has been interesting these last few days and it's beginning to snow as I type. Hopefully a few days of rest, some good weather and we'll be on our way. Hope everyone is doing great back home and we miss you all (well, most of you anyway!).

Monday, January 17, 2022 - 6:21 am PT

The last few members of the team are arriving back at the refugio after a successful summit of Cayambe!  It was a clear morning, but quite windy above 17,000’.  We will descend to Guachala today for some much needed rest before moving south towards Cotopaxi tomorrow.

Sunday, January 16, 2022 - 9:18 pm PT

On Sunday, we had an excellent day reviewing basic mountaineering skills on the glacier plus starting some advanced skills in the hut.  Currently we are 20 minutes into the climb and it is a clear, calm night.  Let’s hope it stays that way!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Awaiting to board our planes that will eventually bring us home and to the loved ones we've been away from for two weeks we're all excited yet sad to see our big adventure come to an end. That our team is breaking apart is even sadder. We've come to know and appreciate one another to no small degree. Sharing life as closely as we have, and with such warm, generous souls, is a special experience. Plans to climb together again are thrown up and we'll see if they stick. I know right now we'd all like to get back together. As I reflect back on this trip I'm reminded why I've chosen this career and am thankful for the opportunities that have come my way. This trip has been extra special because of the people on it. They are the reason I continue pursuing my craft and livelihood. Thanks team, and thanks to everyone following us on the blog. Until next time! RMI Guide Brent Okita PS As for our last safari, our morning revealed only a few hundred animals, not the thousands we saw yesterday. But, it was a short day to allow some shopping and relaxing before our flights. A nice way to end

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons May 31 - 5 June checked in from Camp Schurman this morning. RMI Guide Walt Hailes and team returned to camp after making their summit attempt. The team reached 13,200' before high winds forced their decision to turn around. They plan to do some additional training today and spend their last night on the mountain. Tomorrow they return to the trailhead and then back to Rainier BaseCamp.

After yesterday's carry up into the thin air of 16,000', the team is enjoying the sun and leisurely pace of a rest day here in Genet Basin. The morning started when the sun came around the ridge, thawing the tents and prying open our closed eyes from a well-earned night of sleep. We headed over to our posh house and spent the better part of two hours making and eating blueberry pancakes with peanut butter and bacon. Movie quotes bubbled up from the crew like water from a fountain, followed by a discussion of other vacation ideas (mostly tropical). We drank hot coffee and generally continued to bond together, enjoying the calm morning. This afternoon, we're planning to head over to a zone known as "the edge of the world," which lies about 20 minutes southwest of camp. The basin in which we're camped drops precipitously away about 5,000 vertical feet at this location, providing outlandish views of the Kahiltna Glacier, Mt Hunter, Mt Foraker, and the vast Alaskan wilderness. This light acclimatization hike will let us flush the lactic acid we accumulated yesterday, stretch sore legs, and soak up more of the beauty that surrounds us. At day 11 on the mountain, thoughts can easily turn to the little things you miss from the lowlands - trees, birdsong, bacon cheeseburgers. But our team is still focused on the ascent, and remains mentally strong and poised to move higher yet. We'll check back in tomorrow, so don't change that channel! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the team

On The Map

We woke up early to a taste breakfast at the hacienda. Quickly loaded the bus and headed out. Our first stop was the vibrant Otavalo Market. The colors of the woven textiles, the aroma of fresh flowers, and the lively chatter of local vendors filled the space. We wandered from stall to stall, picking out unique gift. Some crazier than others.

After a few hours of shopping, we drove south toward Cayambe, passing through rolling hills dotted with grazing cattle. The road twisted and turned, leading us to a spacious hut at the foot of the volcano.

Along the way, we grabbed some hearty sandwiches, some of which were bigger than expected.
Finally, we arrived at the lower hut on Cayambe. The clouds scrouded the mountains most of the day but we did get a quick peak at the snowy slopes we hope to climb.

Nicole taught a master class on climbing knots. Everyone diligently practiced tying while laughing at our mistakes but feeling accomplished as the knots became second nature.

RMI Guide Walter Hailes

Well our trip has come to a close! We are all loaded up for one last bus ride back to Mexico City. The mountain is looming behind us, standing above golden fields of fall corn, looking crisp and fresh in the morning air. Everyone got one last look at Orizaba on our way out of town. It has been a great trip with incredible food, company and climbing. All climbers are excited to get back to their families to share stories of their Mexico Volcanoes Expedition! Enjoy a few pictures of our climb yesterday. RMI Guides JT Schmitt and Grayson Swingle

For those of you that know me, you are aware of my love affair with Argentina and Aconcagua. For those of you that don’t know, let me explain. It was 1998 when I first visited Argentina and it didn’t take but a few hours from stepping off of the plane to say to myself, "I love this place!" The first thing you notice while in Mendoza is how beautiful the city and the countryside are. As you walk along the wide city sidewalks that are lined with cafe after cafe, you can’t help but sit down to order a double espresso and watch people. As you sit and watch you notice a different atmosphere that rules Argentina as a whole. That is, people enjoy living! At one table there is a group of businessmen taking a break from work. At another table sit a group of old men in a heated debate over Argentina’s favorite sport, futbol. Of course coffee isn’t the only thing consumed in Mendoza. The region is best known for its wine production, as Argentina is now regarded as one of the largest producers of quality wine in the world. That leads me to another reason I absolutely love Argentina: no, not the wine per se, but the amazing food and restaurants that inhabit the culture. Whether it be the amazing steak that leaves every single person saying the same thing – "that’s the best steak I have ever had!" – or authentic Italian cuisine, if you are a "foodie" like me Argentina is amazing. Sure, Aconcagua is supposed to be all about climbing; however, as an international adventure, an expedition to Argentina could not start or finish any better than in a city like Mendoza. Now, for the climbing part: Aconcagua of course is one of the seven summits and at just under 23,000 feet it is the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas. It is the perfect mountain for climbers who want to get a start at expedition style climbing. The climb starts in the rugged, high mountain desert landscape where temperatures can be very warm. Mules carry our climbing gear the three day trek to base camp at Plaza Argentina. That means a couple of things: One, you get to trek into base camp with a light backpack; two, you get to hang out with the cowboys, also known as Arrieros, every night at the campfire; and perhaps most importantly, you get to experience a true Argentinian Asado as the cowboys cook steak and chicken over the campfire under the stars. Once you arrive at base camp, most climbers are pleasantly surprised at how civilized it is. It’s very reminiscent of Everest Base Camp in that there are dining tents, toilets, and even showers. Since acclimatization is very important on such a high mountain, it certainly is nice to have some creature comforts and incredible support from a great base camp staff. The climbing above base camp is physically demanding. When I first climbed "The Stone Sentinel" in 1998 we only made two camps above base camp. Today RMI makes three camps. Camp One sits at 16,200 feet. Camp Two at 18,000 feet and Camp Three at 19,600 feet. With 20 summits of Aconcagua I have seen the success rate go way up due to the more strategic nature of making three camps. This acclimatization schedule helps to make our climbing teams much stronger, but the climb is still a lot of work! I would love to explain to you how amazing the world looks up high on summit day, but it’s like every mountain I climb: you cannot fully explain the beauty of the high alpine world until you see it for yourself. As you stand on her summit and gaze out, you see a world that never ends; mountains beyond mountains as far as the eye can see. While you contemplate, it doesn’t take too long to begin to smile knowing that as soon as you get down, you are returning to the beautiful city of Mendoza to enjoy the hot weather and swimming pools, after an evening of dining once again on the most amazing food you’ll ever have in your life, that is!

June 27, 2014 - 11:11 pm PT At 8 PM this evening we were blessed with the first glimmer of sun in two and a half days. This isn't completely out of the ordinary for this neck of the woods but more surprising, even to me with eight Denali expeditions, was the amount of snow that fell during that sunless stretch. Four feet would about do this storm justice but when you are living in a nylon house that can collapse under a moderate burial of drifting snow it felt more like ten feet. This morning at breakfast while in the posh house, a one pole pyramid cook tent set up to fit the entire team, shook and sagged under the constant loading of falling flakes, Jay Lampas asked if this snow storm qualified as "epic" yet? I didn't want to sound too fragile and make him believe this was the "storm of the century" but I did have to concede that four feet in two days was a touch "epic". Of course the main worry of the team is how this massive blanketing will effect our upward progress. I didn't have an exact answer but I do know we will be sitting still on Saturday no matter how brilliant the weather because of the avalanche hazard that awaits above us. Safety is always the number one priority so we will move to 14,000 feet only when we know it is safe to do so. Hopefully our dwindling lunch food and Cosmo magazines can hold us out until we can get to the cache of food we left at Windy Corner. We are all looking forward to a night with no 2 am wake up calls for shoveling duty. Maybe full dreams will be of the upper mountain. All the best from McKinley Team Knoff.

On The Map

Hello from the Sulphide Glacier on Mount Shuksan! The team and I are at camp, located at 6,000' on the Sulphide Glacier. We had a mix of rain, sun, mist and fog on our hike to camp today. It's currently overcast but no precipitation while we get ready to eat dinner. The hike took us 6 1/2 hours to get here and everyone is doing well. Tomorrow's itinerary includes practicing some mountaineering skills to prepare for the upcoming summit bid. RMI Guide Mike Walter