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RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from the summit of Pico de Orizaba
Posted by: Dave Hahn, James Bealer, Mitch Valaitis, Nicole De Petris, Rosie Hust, Miles Watson, Stella Johnson, Nina Bridges
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
The Four-Day Climb from May 26–29, led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and James Bealer, was unable to make a summit attempt this morning due to sustained high winds and stronger gusts. The teams remained safely sheltered at Camp Muir and will begin their descent to Paradise later this morning.
Posted by: Casey Grom, Dominic Cifelli, Josh Geiser, Seth Burns, Avery Stolte, Will Ambler
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,300'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Dominic Cifelli reached 12,300' on Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reached the mid-point of Disappointment Cleaver, but the strong winds of 40 - 50 mph forced the team make the decision to descend safely back to Camp Muir. They will return to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford later this afternoon.
Congratulations Team!
That photo looks like something out of a movie—pretty otherworldly.
Posted by: Some guy from Puyallup on 5/25/2024 at 10:06 pm
Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Ben Luedtke, Michael Murray
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 19,600'
Today began with a team meeting at breakfast. Last night there was a possibility that mud slides in the Vacas Valley would prevent us from coming down the mountain the way we came. Fearless leader Dom confirmed we would not be able to backtrack the way we came and instead would go down the other side of the mountain to the Mulas base camp, a route known as the "360." Since we would not be able to go back to our original base camp, we'll have one of the helicopters pick up our duffels and bring them to us at the Mulas base camp.
Our carry day to Camp 3 today brought many us to new high points, with Camp 3 at nearly 19,600ft. Since we would have to carry all our gear up and over the mountain, as opposed to caching it at Camp 2, we all had pretty heavy packs. As we climbed today, the air got thinner and thinner, for most of us requiring a breath every step. Even though we have been at 18,000ft for almost two days, it still required significant fortitude to keep climbing.
High elevation does a number on your body. As you climb higher, the decreasing oxygen makes it difficult to even do the very basic tasks, you loose your appetite and have to force yourself to eat, and for most climbers there is a point where they need start taking Diamox to help prevent high altitude pulmonary and cerebral edema.
After a few days at a particular elevation, we get acclimatized and start feeling good. But we can only bring so many supplies and we have only so many days to get to the summit and back. So our schedule keeps us moving to a new higher point just as we were getting used to our current camp. This is mountaineering and one of the many things that makes it so difficult and the act of doing it so rewarding. Getting to a rest stop on a hike or the next-higher camp on a carry or move day brings a sense of relief that is hard to find in any other activity.
As we approach our last uphill move day, and followed soon after by our summit bid, it's important to remember what a great feat we have accomplished so far, and how lucky we are to be up here with the best climbing team you could ask for.
Climber Andy Green
New Post Alerts:
Aconcagua Expedition January 12, 2024
This just got even more exciting. Mudslides, helicopter transport and an alternative route. You’re all so close!
Posted by: Ed DaPra on 1/25/2024 at 7:19 pm
Amazing! Difficult! Rewarding! And the VIEW!
Personally could have done without some of the detail on the altitude challenges on the body Dr. Green. I trust the spirit of the team to check on each other. Difficult day for sure.
And, best of all, The Summit is Just There!
Posted by: Michelle DeMers on 1/25/2024 at 4:04 pm
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Elevation: 10,000'
Today we are headed to Ixtaccihuatl via a several hour bus ride from the La Malintzi resort. It was a restful evening feasting on a parrillada and watching the Superbowl on a Spanish telecast. A well-deserved restful evening after successfully summitting La Malinche, which is hit or miss and dependent on how much argument (in Spanish) you’re willing to engage in with a heavily armed police officer. This time they left us alone, perhaps because it was such a nice day with no threat of lightning or rain.
Now we are in transit to Amecameca for some last-minute supplies. Today is mostly a travel and organization day, not quite a real rest day yet. We will update via InReach from the mountain so you can follow our progress!
perfect weather and summit dogs?! what a great start!! congrats Anne and Lauren (and the rest of the crew!) wishing you more successful summits both this trip AND alaska when we get there! :)
cheers, Corey
Posted by: Corey on 2/14/2023 at 6:09 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Nikki Champion, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Wednesday, June 30, 2021 - 6:26 pm PT
The winds and clouds from yesterday and last night disappeared and we woke to crystal blue skies this morning. After breakfast we loaded our packs with food and fuel and headed out of 14K Camp, up towards the Headwall. The first two hours were in the shade, and chilly, which made for great climbing weather. We were finally in the sun by the time we hit the fixed ropes and the temperature was downright pleasant.
We ended up putting our cache in at around 16,400' and headed back to camp, beating both the heat and the many climbers descending from high camp.
Back in camp a little after 2pm, we had plenty of time for a nap before dinner. Now we're set up with our cache up high. We'll take a rest day tomorrow and then wait for a good weather window to head up to high camp and hopefully have a chance for a summit bid.
Following along with you Aaron! Great photos and I may paint a few - enjoy the snow it’s HOT here! We love you
Mom and Dad
Posted by: Mom on 7/2/2021 at 8:53 am
On The Map
Greetings from the chilly blizzard region of New Hampshire! Congratulations to all for reaching Base Camp! That’s excellent news and you all bring inspiration to those of us watching your adventure. Please pass on my “congrats” to Ken Young and a high-five! It’s dumping buckets of snow on us here in NH…hoping for clear weather on Aconcagua!
Posted by: Renee Ciulla on 2/8/2013 at 4:54 pm
Posted by: Jake Beren, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,600'
I’ve been to Mordor (Tolkein modeled Mordor from Bloemfontein, South Africa, apparently), and this was worse.
Posted by: Suman on 9/13/2012 at 5:55 pm
The Camp Muir telemetry shows gusts to 80mph, but who is measuring wind speed when you are staring into the depths of Mordor! Speaks volumes about the leadership and confidence inspired by the guides. Great experience all around.
Posted by: Pete on 8/30/2012 at 12:20 pm
Posted by: Linden Mallory
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside
“scheduled” rest day- we all know that means Mike’s party went on a little too long. Happy Birthday Mike I’m sure you and Bruce are having a great time just remember when things get hairy think Stallone- Cliffhanger. 60% of the time it works everytime
Posted by: Mark on 2/12/2012 at 10:03 am














That’s an awesome job ... safe travels home!
Posted by: Jon McHenry on 2/20/2011 at 9:03 am
Congratulations on a brilliant climb! Now y’all get right down from there immediately…
Posted by: Christina Doren on 2/19/2011 at 1:27 pm
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