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Lying in the tent, legs sore but oddly relaxed, it seems hard to believe that we climbed Aconcagua today. This morning we launched before dawn, making our way higher and higher into the troposphere as the rising sun cast a shadow of our mountain deep into the Andes. Everyone on the team got a chance to test their limits today and I'm proud of everyone's effort. It takes a few weeks to get to where you can try to stand on top and everyone's hard work really paid off with a safe day in the mountains. Good work team and thanks to all the wonderful people back home for their support. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

We had a near perfect day to make our carry to Camp 1 (16,200'). Waking early to beat the heat, we bumped a load of food and equipment a few thousand feet higher on the mountain. This will allow us to move to Camp 1 with reasonable weight so that we aren't too spent by the time we get there. The team managed the carry well today and our plan is to patiently rest tomorrow and recover for our upcoming rotation up high. Another day to build our acclimatization so that when we move higher we are prepared for the effort to climb this beautiful mountain. RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team

Our day began differently than what we've been used to. The seemingly eternal sun had hid herself away behind a thick veil of clouds, and a dusting of snow fell during the night. Finally, the cold of Antarctica was showing us its stuff, and I for one was impressed. Loading up packs, we all sorted through our things, deciding what could be left at High Camp and was needed to stay to keep us warm and happy down here at Low Camp. There's always a desire to bring as much as possible up on a carry in the hopes of having a lighter pack when you finally do move up. But, the worst-case scenario must always be considered, and generally it's better to leave less the first time, and carry more the second time, ensuring you have what you need if the going gets tough. So, we all had heavy packs, but not too bad. The move up to High Camp on Vinson is a fairly expedient one, taking a steep line up the Branscomb Glacier headwall. It's steep, but not overwhelming, and fortunately gains altitude quickly. The entire team moved well, and the cloud cover was actually a blessing in disguise, keeping the temperatures reasonable. Step after step, foot after foot, we climbed upward into the clouds, dusted with snow from time to time. Eventually, the fixed lines gave way to a windy ridge and gentler terrain leading to High Camp. As we moved up the final 1000 feet to camp, the mountains decided to show us some scenery. The clouds lowered a bit, and Mount Shinn, the third highest peak on the continent, reared up from the ether below. A stunning sight, and a nice culmination of a hard day's work. We're now all safely back at Low Camp. The weather is socked in, with a light snow falling on the tents. Antarctica has finally showed us her cold side; we're all hoping she warms to us again soon. -Jake Norton

Thursday, June 22, 2023 - 8:27pm

Yes! After experiencing days of snow and wind delay, the team was blessed with a sufficient weather window to depart the 11,000’ Camp and resume climbing. The objective for today was to cache food stores for future retrieval once the 14,000’ Camp is established. Morale was high as the team stepped off smartly after consuming an amazing breakfast of toasted bagels topped with cream cheese and bacon.

A smooth pace was set up on the significant incline of Motorcycle Hill.  The snow was not too deep for crampons. At the top, the team turned right and proceeded up Squirrel Hill, admiring the beauty of Father and Son Walland, the impressively sharp drop off of Peters Glacier.  Intermittent gusty winds had already exposed some patches down to the blue ice beneath, but our crampons, ice axes, and ropes kept everyone safe and secure. Next came the crossing of the Polo Fields where the snow was quite deep and powdery. Our guides elected to cache a bit short of Windy Corner today. Everyone unloaded the group and personal food for burial in the snow.

The reverse route going downhill was surprisingly quick and in no time the team was back in camp.  Hopes are high that we will have an opportunity to move up to 14,000’ Camp tomorrow and continue our acclimatization for the higher altitudes yet to come. It was a great day!

RMI Climber Rick Sturckow & Team

The July 20 - 23 Four Day Climb Team was turned around by high winds today. RMI Guide Walter Hailes and team reached approximately 13,400' before making the decision to abort their summit attempt and return to Camp Muir. The teams will continue their descent to Paradise later this morning.

Ouray, CO is a small mountain town located near the ski resort of Telluride, CO and in the heart of the San Juan mountains. Ouray has become the preeminent destination in the U.S. for ice climbing, and is known throughout the world as well. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens has spent his last five winters climbing and guiding ice in Ouray, and gives his top five reasons to visit the small, exciting mountain town this winter. 1. The Ouray Ice Park: Located two minutes from town, the Ouray ice park is the largest man-made ice park in the world. With over 200 established routes ranging from beginner to difficult ice and mixed climbs and immediate in-town access, the park is the place for any climber to hone their skills. Managed by the Ouray Ice Park staff who turn on nearly 100 showerheads every afternoon to rebuild ice for the next day and keep the park in tip-top shape, this unique playground is free to the public, though donations are much appreciated. The ice park is open seven days a week from mid December to late March. 2. Back Country Ice Climbing: The San Juan Mountains surrounding Ouray are home to many of the best backcountry ice in the US. From roadside multi-pitch climbs on Camp Bird Road to long alpine style ice in Eureka and Telluride, one can find amazing ice and beautiful Rocky Mountain solitude within an hour drive. Famous backcountry routes including Stairway to Heaven, The Ribbon, Skylight, and Bridal Veil Falls are just a few of the sought after classics in the area. 3. The Town of Ouray: This small mountain town has a rich climbing culture. It is not uncommon to see world-class climbers grabbing a pint at the Ourale House or coffee and decadent treat at Mouse’s Chocolate and Coffee following a day on the ice. With over 130 years of history, the town of Ouray is an eclectic blend of new and old. There are a plethora of unique restaurants, coffee shops, and hotels where climbers reconvene with stories from the day’s escapades and plans for tomorrow’s adventure. 4. The Ouray Hot Springs: Located in the heart of town, the Ouray Hot Springs is a public soaking spot not to be missed. Hosting four pools ranging in temperatures from 88º to 106º, the hot springs provide a wonderful way to relax those sore muscles after a day of ice climbing. 5. The Ouray Ice Fest: Typically falling on the second weekend in January, the Ouray Ice Fest is the event of the year. During the day, clinics like ‘Intro to Ice’, ‘Steep Ice Techniques’ and ‘Speed and Efficiency on Ice’ are hosted by world-class athletes and guides. In the evening, slideshows, presentations and events such as the Petzl party are held in town. Don’t be too engrossed to miss the highlight of the weekend: the ice climbing competition. Top climbers from around the world come to test their skill on the difficult competition wall. For anyone interested in learning to ice climb, or looking to take their skills further, Ouray is the perfect destination. The density of available routes, across the spectrum of difficulty, means that there is something for everyone in Ouray. Join one of our Ice Climbing programs this year, and let Geoff or another of our exceptional guides share the excitement of ice climbing with you! _____ Geoff Schellens is a senior guide at RMI. An AMGA certified rock guide, Geoff guides exciting mountain adventures around the world for RMI. Geoff will be guiding Ice programs in Ouray this winter, before starting off his summer season leading an expedition on the West Rib of Denali and then on to Alpamayo. Let Geoff share his wealth of ice climbing knowledge with you this winter!

Today was everything you could ask for on a rest day during a mountaineering expedition: we stayed burrowed into our sleeping bags until the sun hit the tents at Base Camp and then enjoyed a leisurely breakfast, speculating about the outcome of the weekend's games that we missed and drawing out our meal well into the mid-morning. Taking advantage of the perfect weather, we spent a few hours spreading out our equipment and once again going through our gear, culling the unnecessary items and making sure that we had everything we needed for tomorrow's move to Camp 1. In the afternoon we wandered across the moraine to an old hotel built decades ago. Now boarded up, the stone and wood structure sits awkwardly in the middle of the landscape of rocks, glaciers, and snowfields. Despite its current state of neglect, it offers phenomenal views of Aconcagua's west side and while we stood there we were fortunate to have not a cloud in sight. By late afternoon the long shadows crept back over Base Camp and the temperature immediately began to fall as we wrapped up dinner. Base Camp's 14,400' elevation is starting to feel less challenging and we are feeling well rested and ready to move up the mountain. Tomorrow we will climb to Camp 1 at 16,600' and set up camp. While we've enjoyed being at Base Camp, we are ready to move onto the next portion of the climb, we'll check in tomorrow evening from higher up! RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Buenas tardes from Plaza de Mulas, the Base Camp on Aconcagua's western side! Plaza de Mulas sits on a big rocky glacial moraine, near the eastern side of the amphitheater that makes up the head of the main Horocones Valley. Sharp summits surround us in every direction, the deep red color of the mountains here occasionally interested with striations of yellow and grey. Most of the peaks still hold snow from last winter snowpack and fields of penitentes - sharp snow spires that form from the intense sun - are emerging in the snow patches that still reside in the shallow gullies running alongside Base Camp. The panorama is framed by the massive cliff of glacial ice of Horocones Superior to our north and the hulk of Aconcagua rising immediately out of camp to our east. From this low on the mountain the majority of our route is obscured from view by the scree covered flanks running into camp, but far above us the steep cliffs that guard Aconcagua's twin northern and southern summits occasionally emerge from the clouds. Despite the relatively non-technical nature of this route, we still found ourselves craning our necks to look up at the mountain from Camp. After reaching camp we quickly set up our tents and unloaded our gear that came in by mule. It was a relief to see that our gear made it unscathed after bouncing up the valley on the back of what seemed to be semi-tamed mules (whatever you do, don't stand in the trail and play chicken with an oncoming mule train!). With our camp established we explored around camp a bit before settling into our tents for some R&R right as the afternoon clouds spit a few sporadic snowflakes down on us. The team is doing well and we are all very happy to be up high, finally eyeing the route above us and contemplating the next few days. If weather and acclimatization hold strong, we hope to carry a portion of our gear and supplies needed for the upper mountain to Camp 1 tomorrow. The sun is just starting to sink behind the ridge lines that separate us from Chile and the temperatures are getting chilly as we head off to dinner. We'll check in tomorrow after our day. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Mark Tucker here, calling from Chukung. My third attempt coming outside here. The satellites have not been too nice to me tonight. Ch-ch-chilly. So we had an unbelievable day. Just everything was going at us. We gave a great shot going for the summit. We were a little bit shy. But we had an awesome time! That mountain is incredible. And we're all down safe and sound. A lot of our staff is going to go to the right and we are going left, headed to Namche tomorrow. It is cold out tonight. Everybody's happy and we're doing well. We'll check in again. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

We walked for seven hours today… of course we did take a leisurely lunch break in Phakding, so it was less.  But it felt like a big day.  We lost about 2,000 vertical feet in the first hour, coming down the Namche hill.  That was significant, since it meant we were then working at low altitude (around 9,000 ft) which was easier than so much of what we’ve done in the last week.  It was a cloudy day, but there was an amazing amount of helicopter traffic overhead.  And there were plenty of trekkers, porters and pack animals on the trail.  It is prime time in the Khumbu.  Still, we had some fine peaceful moments gazing at waterfalls and flowers and children playing on small farms.  We bounced across a bunch of cable bridges and finally we climbed uphill for the final 90 minutes to reach Lukla.  We’ll spend the night and see if we get lucky with clear weather for flying in the morning. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn