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We had an amazing night to climb the highest peak in Mexico, 18,491’. The skies were clear, near full moon and warm air in the first 2 hours out of Piedra Grande Hut.
By the time we got done meandering through the labyrinth there was a cold breeze and the temps dropped as we neared the toe of the Jamapa Glacier that dominates Pico de Orizaba’s Northside. The Team got their crampons on and up we went for what seemed like forever. The climbing is similar to Rainier’s glaciers. There had been some new snow in the last 10 days and a rain event that was proceeded by a lot of wind and a cold front. The result was a thick ice crust on the lower glacier. The guides had begun talking about turning the climb due to the inability to arrest a fall in these conditions if they persisted in the steeper slopes. Fortunately the snow softened and the team reached the summit around 8:15 am.
During the descent the clouds came in and we descended to the hut. With wet clouds rolling through camp and temperatures dropping we loaded up and road down the bumpy road to Senior Reyes’ climbing hostel. Beers, showers, beers, food, packing and sleeping in that order gets us to the airport tomorrow afternoon. It’s been a fantastic Mexico Volcanoes trip with a great group of climbers.
RMI Guides Mike King & Dustin Wittmier
On The Map
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter reached 12,300 feet on Mt. Rainier before being dead-ended by a crevasse. Despite the crevasse, the team has been enjoying excellent weather on the upper mountain. The team will descend back to
Camp Muir for the night where they will continue their skills training.
We will spend the day taking showers in our Cabelas shower tent, ordering pizzas and perfecting the art of chillaxing. Finally, the sun is out in full effect so we are also charging phones and iPads. Tonight will be a marathon session of The Wire.
Today's rest really isn't needed. Our team is doing great! However, at this altitude we can recover back to 110% before we move to
Camp 1 at 16,600' tomorrow. Stay tuned and please keep posting comments! The team appreciates it.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
Hello again everyone.
We had a early departure from the Dik Dik Lodge and drove east for about two hours to reach
Kilimanjaro National Park. Our drive took us through the rural country side of Tanzania which is full of banana and coffee plantations, markets and plenty of people headed between home and the local water well. It was very surreal to see so many folks who depend on these wells for their water, especially watching them walking with 5 gallon jugs carefully balanced on their heads.
Once at the gate we took a short break to sign in and allow our team to arrange all the loads and hire all of our porters for the seven-day climb. Our team started with 11 climbers and quickly grew as we acquired all the support of cooks, waiters, camp crew and porters and we ended up at a total of 68!
Just before 11 a.m. we set off on the trail that ascended through the forest and slowly climbed all the way up to just shy of 10,000'. It took the team a little over four hours to reach our camp and everyone did fantastic and enjoyed the hike.
The team just finished dinner and are all comfortably resting in our warm sleeping bags- thanks to the hot water bottles our gracious crew prepared for us.
Not quite roughing it yet!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
The weather is very comfortable here at 14k- lots of sun, light winds, and reasonable temps; but the winds persist up high. Wind speeds are around 40 mph at high camp, and probably 50-60 mph at Denali Pass and the summit.
We climbed to the base of the fixed lines today (a little over 1000' above camp), just to stretch the legs and get some exercise. It felt good to climb for a couple of hours.
Now we're back at camp, lounging around and waiting for the winds to ease so we can move to high camp and get a crack at the summit.
The team appreciates everyone's comments on the blog...keep them coming!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Hello from high camp!
The clear skies that formed yesterday held throughout the night and we woke to a perfectly bluebird day. Eager to take advantage of the weather, we wolfed down breakfast, broke down camp, packed our backpacks and headed out onto the glacier. Despite spending yesterday off of our feet in camp waiting out the winds we quickly found our climbing rhythm again and made great time as we ascended. By noon we reached our previous high point where we cached on Friday. There we found our gear, covered in a thin layer of ice from yesterday's winds, still lashed down amongst the rocks. A falcon, doubtlessly lured by our treats saved for summit day, was curiously snooping about when we arrived but took off after catching site of our band of Gore-Tex clad climbers. Thankfully the duffel bag that held everything kept the raptor at bay and we loaded the last of our gear into our packs for the final hour's climb into high camp.
As we reached camp the low valley clouds, fueled by the midday heat, swirled up about us, at times blanketing us in a calm fog, other times parting to reveal the rest of the mountain looming above us. High camp sits at 15,200' perched amongst a band of black volcanic rocks running down from the east summit known as Lenz Rocks. Camp is quite exposed to Elbrus' infamous winds so we devoted a good amount of energy to establishing camp. As the clouds danced around us we went to work, chopping the ice out of the tent platforms, bolstering rock walls, and securely anchoring the tents. By mid-afternoon we were comfortably settled in our tents, sipping on water and doing our best to enjoy the rarified air of 15,200' and we had a couple of hours to rest and recover before dinner. As the evening shadows grew long off of the rock pinnacles standing guard above our tents we shared a hearty meal of vegetable lasagna before retiring to the sleeping bags for the night.
Tomorrow we are planning to make our summit bid for Elbrus, leaving camp around first light. We will traverse below the east summit to the saddle at over 17,500' and then climb to the west summit. We are hoping to be standing on the highest point in Russia and all of Europe by around noon local time, about 1 am (Pacific) Monday morning. The team is feeling strong and excited about tomorrow's endeavor. Keep your fingers crossed that our perfect weather holds!
Hi there, we are having a great summit day! We left Camp Muir at 4 am and reached the summit at 9:15. The weather has been very nice. We are making our way down the mountain now. We'll check in when we get back to
Camp Muir.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
We had a near perfect day to make our carry to
Camp 1 (16,200'). Waking early to beat the heat, we bumped a load of food and equipment a few thousand feet higher on the mountain. This will allow us to move to Camp 1 with reasonable weight so that we aren't too spent by the time we get there. The team managed the carry well today and our plan is to patiently rest tomorrow and recover for our upcoming rotation up high. Another day to build our acclimatization so that when we move higher we are prepared for the effort to climb this beautiful mountain.
RMI Guide
Jake Beren & Team
Saturday, June 15th, 2013
After another early start, we made our way up to 10,000 feet and cached some of the food, fuel, and gear that we will not need until later. We started walking uphill around 4 a.m. this morning because even though we are camping and traveling on ice and snow, it can be quite hot with the sun beating down and reflecting upon us. We returned to camp just after 11 a.m.
Katie and
Uchal made some delicious breakfast burritos before we all turned in for our afternoon naps. Don't judge, we worked hard!
The plan for tomorrow is to pack up camp early and head towards our next spot at around
9,600 feet. The mountain is pretty quiet since there are not many teams flying on the mountain right now.
Everyone is happy and healthy. Yvonne, Peter wanted me to let you know he is especially happy and healthy!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
P.S. Congratulations to
Tyler Jones and team for their summit!
On The Map
Our team woke to a beautiful morning after our first night at 15,300' Refugio
Cayambe. Inspiring views of the glaciers and rugged landscape made our day of mountaineering skills amazing. The team is strong and we're all looking forward to a great summit day. We're hoping for good weather and climbing conditions as we make our summit push tonight.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
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good luck Doni n Pepi
gunna b wet n cold
b safe
have fun
Posted by: Donato Arguelles on 5/10/2015 at 9:55 am
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