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Sunday, June 16, 2013
We woke this morning to another unbelievable day at 17,200' camp on
Mt. McKinley. The sun was shining, there was no wind blowing, and folks were comfortable in soft shell coats eating their grits and Pop Tarts. If you don't have a frame of reference for how unbelievable that kind of weather is, it's more typical for people to be wrapped in every puffy coat and pant that they brought to the high camp, while the wind threatens to blow you right off the mountain. Needless to say, we were psyched.
We started walking down the buttress route soon after breakfast, and make excellent time across the knife-edge, exposed walking from camp to the top of the fixed lines. A short, technical descent down the lines had us all sweating by the time we reached the bottom, and we stripped down to base layers for the moderate descent back to our cache at 14,200'.
After we grabbed all the group food and gear, we loaded heavy packs and headed down in the scorching sun towards our old stomping grounds at 11,000'. We arrived in calm, clear skies, and we quickly got up tents and got out of the sun. We're drinking a ton of water, looking forward to the group food fry of leftover cheeses, meats, and breads this evening, and getting ready for the 3am launch down the glacier tomorrow morning. Hopefully we'll have the weather to fly back to showers, greasy burgers, and cold beer tomorrow.
Until then, stay tuned for the latest and greatest from the team!
Hasta luego,
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens and the sore but happy team
On The Map
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by
Casey Grom and the
Five Day Summit Climb led by
Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported windy conditions up top. Both teams will descend to Camp Muir, pack up and then continue to Paradise.
We look forwrd to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Kathmandu!
It's been quite the adventure the last few weeks. Today the team left the beautiful and peaceful Khumbu and caught our morning flight back to the busy city of Kathmandu. The team spent the day lounging by the pool, resting in our rooms and catching up with emails and news.
Everyone is doing well and excited about returning home to family and friends. We finished the day off with pizzas and long fresh salads.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
On The Map
Buenas noches from Hacienda Chilcabamba.
We just moved into our rooms after enjoying a stunning sunset on the drive out into the campo [wilderness]. The hacienda sits right on the edge of Cotopaxi National Park, and with any luck we will get a view of where we hope to stand in a few days.
Today was the big market day in Otavalo, so we braved the crowds and headed into the thick of it. The theme of the day was bargaining, and everybody had a chance to practice their Spanish in order to come away with some authentic souvenirs.
The team is well rested and excited for another climb. We'll check in tomorrow from the Cotopaxi hut.
RMI Guides Casey Grom & Maile Wade with the Ecuador Team.
Our weather changed a bit for the worse today, but not before we were able to get our work (and play) accomplished up on the West Buttress. As we started stoves a little before 8 AM, there was already an upper cloud layer above the mountain and a fairly thick blanket below. But there was no sign of wind on the upper ridges so we felt pretty comfortable in gearing up to climb after breakfast. Two hours of steady uphill trudging got us to the slightly more interesting terrain of the bergschrund and the headwall above. We latched onto the fixed ropes and made our way up the 45 degree slopes. Conditions were excellent as there were staircase-quality footsteps in the steep snow. We topped the ropes in good time and it was obvious that everyone was game for going higher, but as we rested at 16,200' it began to snow and so we buried the supplies we were carrying (to protect the food from greedy ravens) and we beat feet back down to 14,200'. We weren't away more than six hours for the round trip but even so it was a significant effort and we were proud of our accomplishments. Three or four of the team broke personal altitude records. We rested away the remainder of the day as snow showers came and went. Tomorrow is a rest day for our team anyway, so we don't mind if a little unsettled weather plays through... but just a little. We are already getting excited for a move up to high camp.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
The final four just topped out on Aconcagua!
Ben Luedtke reported that it took the team 7 hours 20 minutes to reach the summit. The winds were blowing at 35 mph and it was cold.
They will report more on their summit day when they return to High Camp.
Congratulations Team!
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New Post Alerts:
Aconcagua Expedition January 31, 2025
RMI Guide Alex Barber begins his solo / nO's attempt on Annapurna:
The 24th of March around mid-day I made a turbulent landing into Kathmandu for my fourth 8000m expedition. The forecast for the next five days is showing two meters of snow… That combined with a large snowfall in late February has me nervous. I worry that I will arrive to a dangerously loaded mountain, a mountain known for its frequent avalanches. But as of now I am sending my bags ahead to Tatopani. Tomorrow morning (27th) I'll be taking a helicopter from Kathmandu to Tatopani and if weather permits I'll be in base camp tomorrow afternoon.
For now, the focus will be to survive the congested streets of Kathmandu, as I make last minute purchases like fuel, food, lighters, etc.
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide
Casey Grom and the Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide
Linden Mallory reached the summit of Mt. Rainier earlier this morning. The teams got an early start this morning in order to take advantage of the cooler overnight temperatures and
beat the heat today. While on the summit, the teams found it to be incredibly warm with calm winds. They are also enjoying a clear sky with views in all directions.
The teams will descend to Camp Muir where they will refuel before continuing their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford later today.
Congratulations!
The
Four Day Summit Climbs August 12 - 15, 2013 led by RMI Guides Eric Frank was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Strong winds and precipitation prevented the teams from climbing. The teams checked in from Camp Muir shortly after 7 am where they were safe and warm in the Muir hut. The teams will descend from Camp Muir to Paradise this morning.
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos was unable to summit this morning also. They will spend today training on the mountain. Tomorrow they will descend to Paradise and complete their program.
We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp.
Tuesday, June 18, 2013
We are getting beautiful weather day after beautiful weather day! We retrieved our cache from 10,000ft. We are now set to bring a load up to around 14,000ft. This will be great for our acclimatization since it fits into the climb high and sleep low model.
The team has really been doing a great job of taking care of themselves. We are doing a lot of sport eating and drinking as we sit around camp. I am usually a hydration nag, but this crew is on top of it!
Stay Classy North America!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
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way to go james! cant wait to see all your pics and hear all your stories!
Posted by: tina on 6/17/2013 at 7:04 pm
Hello Googoo and the rest of the climbers, our prayers are with you all, we are proud of you, keep it up and come back safe, love you, Areg
Posted by: Areg Abramian on 6/17/2013 at 6:29 am
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