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Saturday, June 15th, 2013
After another early start, we made our way up to 10,000 feet and cached some of the food, fuel, and gear that we will not need until later. We started walking uphill around 4 a.m. this morning because even though we are camping and traveling on ice and snow, it can be quite hot with the sun beating down and reflecting upon us. We returned to camp just after 11 a.m. Katie and Uchal made some delicious breakfast burritos before we all turned in for our afternoon naps. Don't judge, we worked hard!
The plan for tomorrow is to pack up camp early and head towards our next spot at around 9,600 feet. The mountain is pretty quiet since there are not many teams flying on the mountain right now.
Everyone is happy and healthy. Yvonne, Peter wanted me to let you know he is especially happy and healthy!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
P.S. Congratulations to Tyler Jones and team for their summit!
On The Map
The weather is very comfortable here at 14k- lots of sun, light winds, and reasonable temps; but the winds persist up high. Wind speeds are around 40 mph at high camp, and probably 50-60 mph at Denali Pass and the summit.
We climbed to the base of the fixed lines today (a little over 1000' above camp), just to stretch the legs and get some exercise. It felt good to climb for a couple of hours.
Now we're back at camp, lounging around and waiting for the winds to ease so we can move to high camp and get a crack at the summit.
The team appreciates everyone's comments on the blog...keep them coming!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Hey Mike and Team,
I am back in Denver. I guess Ed, Seth, Mark and I would still be sitting there with you guys. Hang in there and be safe!
Posted by: Kevin Duncan on 5/19/2011 at 12:48 pm
Hi David,
Hope you are enjoying your climbing adventure and that your team stays safe. Liam still talks about your Mt. Hood climb. Wishing you the best from a very flat Chicago suburb. Susan, Dave and Liam.
Posted by: Susan on 5/19/2011 at 7:02 am
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
Hello from high camp!
The clear skies that formed yesterday held throughout the night and we woke to a perfectly bluebird day. Eager to take advantage of the weather, we wolfed down breakfast, broke down camp, packed our backpacks and headed out onto the glacier. Despite spending yesterday off of our feet in camp waiting out the winds we quickly found our climbing rhythm again and made great time as we ascended. By noon we reached our previous high point where we cached on Friday. There we found our gear, covered in a thin layer of ice from yesterday's winds, still lashed down amongst the rocks. A falcon, doubtlessly lured by our treats saved for summit day, was curiously snooping about when we arrived but took off after catching site of our band of Gore-Tex clad climbers. Thankfully the duffel bag that held everything kept the raptor at bay and we loaded the last of our gear into our packs for the final hour's climb into high camp.
As we reached camp the low valley clouds, fueled by the midday heat, swirled up about us, at times blanketing us in a calm fog, other times parting to reveal the rest of the mountain looming above us. High camp sits at 15,200' perched amongst a band of black volcanic rocks running down from the east summit known as Lenz Rocks. Camp is quite exposed to Elbrus' infamous winds so we devoted a good amount of energy to establishing camp. As the clouds danced around us we went to work, chopping the ice out of the tent platforms, bolstering rock walls, and securely anchoring the tents. By mid-afternoon we were comfortably settled in our tents, sipping on water and doing our best to enjoy the rarified air of 15,200' and we had a couple of hours to rest and recover before dinner. As the evening shadows grew long off of the rock pinnacles standing guard above our tents we shared a hearty meal of vegetable lasagna before retiring to the sleeping bags for the night.
Tomorrow we are planning to make our summit bid for Elbrus, leaving camp around first light. We will traverse below the east summit to the saddle at over 17,500' and then climb to the west summit. We are hoping to be standing on the highest point in Russia and all of Europe by around noon local time, about 1 am (Pacific) Monday morning. The team is feeling strong and excited about tomorrow's endeavor. Keep your fingers crossed that our perfect weather holds!
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Another big day out in East Africa. It was tough to leave the comfortable Plantation Lodge this morning, but we had things to do and places to see. We stopped for some plain old tourism in the morning--shopping for gifts and souvenirs. Next up was a visit to a Maasai village. The Maasai are famous among the many tribes of Tanzania for holding onto their traditional ways. The villagers demonstrated their chanting and singing. They showed how high they could jump and invited our team to join in the competition. They brought us into the central corral, built of thorny branches and trees arranged in a tight circle, where their cattle are protected from predators each night. After demonstrating building a fire without matches, they explained a little of how their families are structured and welcomed us into their well-built but very small homes made of sticks, mud and dung. Our team tried bargaining for some of the handmade craft pieces the Maasai women were offering and then we got on the road for Tarangire National Park.
Tarangire is a vast park encompassing three parallel river courses. As soon as we were past the giant baobab trees that mark the park entrance, we began seeing zebra, impala and wildebeest in such numbers that we began taking these animals for granted. We got selective, only wanting to slow down for giraffes and elephants. None of us were casual or blasé about seeing a big sleepy leopard draped over the branches of an acacia tree. He or she (there was some debate) was exceedingly beautiful. We spied a lioness watching the world from a camouflaged clump of brush on a riverbank. And we saw many elephant families of mothers with their young ranging from 6 months to a year or two. We watched them feed and rest in the shade, we saw them using their trunks as straws to pull water from underground. We saw grassy savannas and thickets of trees and palms. Essentially we saw wildlife and wilderness from horizon to horizon. When we were deep within the park, we entered Balloon Camp, our lodging for this, our final evening together. We savored an evening watching sunset, moonrise and “bush television” (a campfire) before dinner.
The adventure isn’t finished just yet, we still hope for new discoveries in the morning...but everyone has airplanes to catch at some point tomorrow.
Best Regards,
Dave Hahn
Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Adam Knoff, Billy Nugent
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Hi there, we are having a great summit day! We left Camp Muir at 4 am and reached the summit at 9:15. The weather has been very nice. We are making our way down the mountain now. We'll check in when we get back to Camp Muir.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Congratulations! Welcome Home!
Posted by: Gary & MaryJohnson on 5/30/2014 at 1:25 pm
Dear Bob!!
Be Safe & Good Luck!!!!!!
Will Reed
Posted by: Will Reed on 5/30/2014 at 12:35 pm
Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 348'
May 21, 2014 - 7:12 pm PT
The day before flying on to the mountain is always an incredibly full day. At breakfast we discuss our expedition goals, strategy, schedule and everything else under the sun. This is followed up by our orientation with Denali National Park. And then on to the hangar of our air service where we spend half the day making certain we have everything we need to survive the weeks on the mountain. The other half of the day is spent putting this incredible amount of gear and food in some semblance of order so that when we actually fly on to the glacier we can pick up and go.
It's been a long day, but one well spent. Tomorrow we're all set for the flight on to the mountain. But tonight, a final dinner where we can relax with a burger and a beer. A well deserved treat after such a busy day, and one we'll be dreaming of in the not to distant future.
RMI Guides Brent, Leah, and Nick
Great pics of the team! We are so proud of you Daniel and we follow you and your team every step of the way - to the top!!! Go, go, go….We love you! Mom & Rob
Posted by: Lena Akerman on 5/23/2014 at 7:13 am
Way to go Steve Hart!! Good luck to you and the team - Speedy and safe climb!
A warm rehab room and a cold beer awaits your return!!
Brett and team
Posted by: Team Fairway on 5/23/2014 at 5:59 am
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Pete Van Deventer, Walter Hailes, Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Congratulations to the Four Day Summit Climb team led by Adam Knoff! They reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning! The team left Camp Muir with clear and pleasant weather. As the climb progressed a front moved in and the team experienced some light snowfall and 10 mph winds. They spent some time on the summit and began their descent at 9:15 a.m.
It was great climbing with you all and thanks to all of our guides.
Posted by: Josh on 5/22/2013 at 7:22 pm
YAY good job daddy!!! and happy birthday!!! Keith Hutchinson!!!!!
Posted by: Nate Hutchinson on 5/19/2013 at 4:45 pm
Our team woke to a beautiful morning after our first night at 15,300' Refugio Cayambe. Inspiring views of the glaciers and rugged landscape made our day of mountaineering skills amazing. The team is strong and we're all looking forward to a great summit day. We're hoping for good weather and climbing conditions as we make our summit push tonight.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Dobre Veycher,
The morning again broke perfectly clear, only a faint trace of wind and blowing snow visible on the summit of Elbrus. After a leisurely breakfast we decided a little adventure and relaxation was in order so we headed back down to the top of the tram where we hopped a ride back down to Azau. Taking a couple of hours at lower altitude we enjoyed a quick shower, the chance to shoot a quick email home, and a fantastic order of french fries. It was a spontaneous little side trip and a welcome treat before the climb.
Returning to the mountain we went on a short hike to stretch our legs and then spent the rest of the afternoon preparing our gear for the morning and resting. Tomorrow we will wake up early for our summit bid, planning on returning to the Barrels by midafternoon.
The weather remains unchanged and the group is feeling strong and excited for our climb tomorrow. We will check in after the climb and let you know how it goes.
Today dawned with crystal blue skies and high energy for the team at the hotel in Penitentes. We made our way to a delicious breakfast of bacon, eggs, cheese and ham, washed it all down with coffee and orange juice, and headed over to the staging area for last-minute preparations.
Within a half hour, we had the duffels fully locked and loaded, trekking packs ready, and were on our way. Everybody was ready for the exercise after a couple of days of bife de chorizo and Malbec, and within the first half hour we had hit our stride. Steady hiking took us further and further up the Vacas valley, along the west side of the turbid and roaring Vacas river.
The scenery and stories kept our minds off the strong sun, and within a few hours we arrived here at our first camp, Pampa de Leñas. A few other folks have moved in next to us. They are friendly and excited as we are to be here in this beautiful place. We are currently watching the sun slide behind the mountains, with dinner the next immediate goal. Everyone is healthy, strong, and stoked to continue up the valley tomorrow.
Thanks for watching our progress; stay tuned!
RMI Guides Nick, Ben, and Garrett
Happy New Year from NYC!
Although it is great to bring the New Year in the Big Apple, nothing can compare to be in Aconcagua right now!!!
Happy 2014 to the team…
Matilde
Posted by: Matilde on 12/31/2013 at 6:04 pm
Hey G Good luck on the climb - wish I was there again and remember FILTER the water!!!!
Jeff
Posted by: Jeff Hall on 12/31/2013 at 8:22 am
Enjoyed meeting you’all in Talkeetna. I am happy to hear you all are safe and sound. We had a “standard” at the Roadhouse and a couple of Ice Ax Axes at the West Rib in your honor this afternoon. Heading home tomorrow. Good luck on the mountain, and I hope you all summit.
Posted by: Papa Haugen on 6/16/2013 at 4:52 pm
Happy Fathers Day, Q! Jack and I miss you, hope you are having a great time!
Posted by: Liz Landers on 6/16/2013 at 1:58 pm
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