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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Looking to Tomorrow

June 2, 2014

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Sunday, June 1, 2014 11:34 pm PT The best laid plans are always subject to change. Our first view out of the tent this morning was of blue sky, but when we turned our gaze towards the summit, we found a large lenticular cloud spinning over the mountain, with jets of snow shooting up into the sky. Needless to say, we spent another day in camp. Our prospects look good for tomorrow, with a favorable forecast of high pressure for the next several days. We've said this before, and some are wondering how much longer we can wait; the team made the decision today that Tuesday would be our definitive up/down day. On the plus side, a slew of independent climbers made the jump to 17,000' today despite the winds, so that should alleviate some of the congestion tomorrow. We redecorated our posh tent today with a sun painted in Gatorade, a hockey player's face (looking towards the Stanley Cup), and the quote "we're doin' it". Spirits are still high despite the waiting, and we have a lot of hope that tomorrow will deliver for us. For now: off to bed to rest up for the fixed lines and West Buttress tomorrow! RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team

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Hey Team Lowry might do the line dancing yet! Keeping my fingers crossed for all of you. Go go go gang.

Posted by: Frank Haasbeek on 6/3/2014 at 4:23 am

Hoping Team Lowry had the opportunity to go up…can’t wait to read your next entry and hear the good news.

Posted by: Nick Spanakis on 6/3/2014 at 4:16 am

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Kilimanjaro: Team Arrives in Arusha, Tanzania

August 8, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Greetings from Tanzania, The team has gathered at the Dik Dik Hotel in Tanzania. Sometimes the toughest part about starting a trip like this is getting out of town and sitting on a plane for such long time periods. Now that those things are behind us we can begin to focus on our adventure. We enjoyed a beautiful day at the Dik Dik Hotel mostly napping, resting and eating then had to do a little work to get ready for our climb of Kilimanjaro. We went through a thorough gear check and discussed how to pack our bag and packs for the mountain. A team meeting to discuss our plans for the next few days and coordinating with our mountain staff to assure all our gear is packed, weighed and ready to go. This is the first trip to Africa for all of our team members and they are fired up for the climb which begins tomorrow. We have planned for an early breakfast and then will make the 90 minute drive to the Machame Gate, our entrance to Kilimanjaro National Park. We start our climb with a 6 to 7 hour hike to our first mountain camp, Machame Camp. We will send updates throughout our climb and hope you will follow along. Everyone is excited to get started! Uusiku mwema (good night), RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Mt. McKinley: Linden Mallory & Team Fly on the Mountain

June 24, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

The skies above Talkeetna were broken this morning with a light gray patchwork of clouds hanging low in the sky. We packed up our bags from the hotel and walked over to the Roadhouse Café for another hearty breakfast, keeping an eye on the skies through the window. By the time we finished the clouds were breaking apart so we hurried over to the airstrip to see what the pilots thought of the flying weather. Sure enough they gave us the thumbs up and we went into hyperdrive, packing the last few items and loading our bags into the planes. By 10:30am we were airborne, the team split between two turbo prop planes outfitted with skis. As soon as we climbed above the last remanants of that low hanging cloud layer the Alaska Range reared into view, gradually filling the windshield of the plane with a white mass as we approached. Before long we left the green forest below and crossed above the moraines and glaciers of the Southern Alaska Range. Making a big turn around the southwest side of Mt. Hunter - the third highest peak in the Alaska Range - and entered above the Kahiltna Glacier. Another giant sweeping turn brought us into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna and Chris, our pilot, gently touched the plane down onto the glacier. Stepping out of the plane is always an overwhelming experience as the sheer scale of the surrounding landscape is brought into perspective. Soon the planes took off again, leaving us standing at Base Camp with a massive pile of gear and food sitting beside us. We quickly set to work, establishing camp and unpacking and resorting our gear from the flights. The rest of the afternoon slipped by as we reviewed our glacial travel skills, set up crevasse rescue systems, and played with various snow anchors. In the evening Kel pulled together some phenomenal burritos and then we settled in for some rest. We are waking up again in a few hours to move to Camp 1, taking advantage of the coldest part of the night when the snow is frozen and supportive to walk across the lower stretches of the Kahiltna Glacier which is riddled with crevasses this time of year. We should arrive in Camp by mid morning tomorrow. The team is doing well, excited to be here, and eager to begin the climb. We will check in tomorrow from Camp 1. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Mike Walter and Team’s Rucu Pichincha Hike

June 23, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Today we enjoyed our first acclimatization hike, climbing the ~15,500’ Rucu Pichincha, a volcano whose flanks form part of the western perimeter of Quito. In order to access the hike, we rode a gondola from Quito to ~13,500’. The hike begins at the top of the gondola and heads west, gradually climbing up a broad ridge. Dramatic views of Quito were afforded, a few thousand feet below us. The weather was great for hiking, with only a light breeze and comfortable temperatures. As we neared the top of Rucu, the trail steepened, climbing up to a col; from here a quick rock scramble led to the top. Views from the top were limited, as we were in the clouds at this point. But as we descended, the clouds dissipated a bit. Everyone did great on this high-altitude climb, especially considering that most of us were at sea-level a day or two before this! Once we got back to Quito, we had a couple of hours of free time to rest before we headed out for a well-deserved meal where we sampled typical Ecuadorian cuisine, including shrimp ceviche, chicken, pork, and even baked cuy, or guinea pig—a classic dish from the Andes. Tomorrow we’re headed north for our second acclimatization hike to Fuya Fuya, a small mountain near the town of Otovalo. We’ll touch base again tomorrow. Hasta luego! RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Reaches Summit!

May 30, 2025

Posted by: Brent Okita, Henry Coppolillo

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Climb with Brent Okita and Henry Coppolillo reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Brent reported a clear, calm, and beautiful day on top.

The team spent time on the summit signing the summit registry, taking pictures, and celebrating before starting their descent back to Camp Muir.

Congratulations Team!

Everest Base Camp Trek: Grom & Team Visit Climbing Legend in Pangboche

March 17, 2025

Posted by: Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 13,950'

Hello again everyone.

What an amazing day we had here today in the Khumbu. It started off with views of Everest right out our dining room window at breakfast.

We then hit the trail and headed uphill to old Pangboche to visit a friend and climbing legend Ang Kami Sherpa. As we sat and had tea with him and his wife, we learned he has 18 Everest summits, and has also climbed K2, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Shishapangma, Manaslu, Makalu, Ama Dablam 16 or more times, on over 45 Himalayan expeditions. Obviously, we were all totally impressed, especially by his humble demeanor. It was an honor to share time with him for all of us.

If that wasn’t enough, we visited the Pangboche monastery built in the 16th century and home to a supposed Yeti skull and hand. If you believe in that sort of thing, it was shocking to see, although we have a few doubters in our group.

We then slowly made our way uphill while walking right under Ama Dablam shining above us the whole way. Ama is considered the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas” and is a proud step climb at 22,500ft. Although small by Himalayan standards, she (Ama means mother) is often considered more difficult than many of the other 8,000 meter peaks.

The team is currently relaxing in Pheriche sitting around the yak dung burning stove warming our bones.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the trekking crew!

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Everest Base Camp Trek, March 9, 2025

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Ecuador Seminar: Weather Forces Knoff and Team Turn on Chimborazo

January 19, 2020

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Dustin Wittmier

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 18,000'

Deja vu happens to people all the time. A familiar face, feeling or experience happening in the present that one is sure has happened in the past. Most of the time this strange phenomenon passes quickly and the day continues on its normal path. Today was a different type of deja vu.

One year ago at this very time of year, I was on Chimborazo guiding a team of climbers motivated to ascend this beast of a volcano. We were camped at the same camp, had the same tent sights and experienced the same weather. Unfortunately this weather was the kicker. From well below the mountain, a mean looking cloud cap obscured the summit and it was clear that wind, whipped up from the volatile tropics had a grip on the upper mountain with no intention of loosening it. Today, everything from our parking spot to the cloud formations was the same.

We reached high camp at 17,400' at the 3:00 p.m. This section of the climb was actually much more pleasant than expected. Beautiful backdrops of our climbers were framed against the moody upper mountain and the deep red volcanic rock making for amazing color contrast and Kodak moments.

Once at camp, things began to change and the wind began to pour down the mountain making our tent houses flap. Through dinner the wind didn’t let up. Then around 8:00 p.m., as we were tucked in, things went calm. Exactly like last year. With this sign, I knew what was coming.

By 9:30 p.m. the atmospheric fan was turned to high. Dust found every tiny opening in the tents covering our sleeping bags and getting into our eyes and mouths. From here on we knew it was going to be an uncertain climb.

At 2:00 a.m. we left our camp with winds so strong we needed to collapse our tents and put rocks on them to keep them from getting destroyed. Last year that’s what happened. Unfortunately an hour into the climb, having been protected by a large rock band, we turned a corner and were greeted with the full force of Chimborazo. With all the local guides urging us to turn back, we were left with little choice. Having only climbed 600 feet, we turned the group around.

Sometimes the house deals some bad hands. Unfortunately on this trip, two out of three were not winners. Although we didn’t summit Cayambe or Chimborazo, we were blessed with a perfect day on Cotopaxi. We all feel psyched to be heading home soon but a bit disappointed we couldn’t get higher. All in all we had a great journey learning a lot while making life long memories.

Now we are enjoying a welcome afternoon of football before heading back to Quito and ultimately back home. Thank you all for following our Ecuadorian adventure.

Hasta Luego!

RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Dustin Wittmier and Team

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Good Luck Sue!! Wishing you and your fellow climbers a safe and successful climb!

- Mychal (Mexico climb teammate)

Posted by: Mychal Wooldridge on 1/20/2020 at 1:14 pm

Glad you are safe! Sorry that the wind blew you off the summit! Packers also were blown out!

Posted by: Jane on 1/20/2020 at 5:03 am

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Ascend the Fixed Lines

June 1, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 31, 2014 - 11:21 pm PT The weather cooperated, sort of, for our big day climbing the infamous fixed lines to 16,200'. These are ropes fixed in place on a steep part of our route that offer security to our team as we climb it. As seen from camp this headwall is particularly impressive, and intimidating. The winds had calmed down completely by the time we got up, and the day was looking good. However by the time we actually started walking clouds had rolled in obscuring our views and the route. But the sun could be seen through this layer giving us confidence that we'd climb out of it. And we did. The headwall itself was challenging, but our training yesterday helped immeasurably. We all made it to 16,200' where we cached the supplies we carried up and took a well-deserved break. Our descent was slow on the icy terrain, but we managed it fairly well. By the time we got back to camp, the team was deservedly happy to have climbed this much anticipated part of the route. And now it's bed time. We're all looking forward to sleeping in and being lazy tomorrow. All for now from 14,200', RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick

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Hello Team! Soooo jealous! Brent, Leah, Nick and what I read so far about the rest of the team all I can say is I’m looking forward to your summit pic’s:). Believe me anyone with any doubts dial them back YOU can do this! Just listen to Brent,Leah and Nick stay focused on the goal and sucess is soon within your reach!

All the BEST!!!!

Last year’s team memeber,

Gerald!

Posted by: Gerald Flynn on 6/2/2014 at 8:56 am

Dear Daniel and Team,

Sounds like you are making great progress and so is the weather forecast:)! With your positive team spirit and awesome strength you will be ready to summit very soon. Sooo proud of you all!

Love you lots!

Mom & Rob

Posted by: Lena Akerman on 6/2/2014 at 8:52 am

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team’s Good Living at 14,200’

May 30, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

May 30, 2014 - 11:12 pm PT The view from the vestibule this morning was not what I'd have called heartening. Clouds and snow dominated the picture, adding visual texture to the soft but incessant howl of the winds coming from the Buttress above. We could still see most of the landmarks around camp, but in the shadow of the early morning it didn't look promising for our carry. So, after talking with Leah and Nick, I happily crawled back into my warm sack. We later awoke at the more reasonable hour of 9:00 to get the stoves fired up and start our day. No one complained about not climbing. I think having a real rest day was welcome by all. So what do we do on these days? First of all, we hang out in the Posh an extra hour or two, then we cut a few snow blocks to further reinforce the walls we built around our tents yesterday. It was impressive seeing the team rally and build some really good walls. I think everyone was feeling good and happy to be doing something. Twelve hours in a tent can do that to a person. But a rest day is a rest day and some good tent time is a must. A group was playing an animated game of BS next door to us in the Posh. Others were catching up on things on the radio. Naps are never a bad thing, and in this tent a few games of cribbage were contested. We even got in a bit of rope craft review and knot tying practice. Such is life for the climber hanging out at 14,200' waiting for Mother Nature to offer us a little friendlier weather to continue our climb up the flanks of one of her most beautiful mountain creations. We're all doing well and happily waiting this little set back out. Cheers, RMI Guides Brent, Leah and Nick

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Proud of you dad, hope you make it all the way to the top. Make it count. Get ready for some seriously hot and humid weather back in Jupiter.
Love you.
Ali

Posted by: Ali on 6/1/2014 at 10:25 am

Hope you are doing well.Love seeing the blogs and your progress. I Love& miss you.Girls are doing good.It’s been a good trip here so far. Who knew that the girls like to fish.Scottie has taken them fishing a lot.You calling me on my birthday made my day.I had so much more to say.Love you.Good night.

Posted by: Robin Wagner on 6/1/2014 at 2:28 am

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Kilimanjaro: Martin & Team Ready for Summit Bid

February 15, 2014

Posted by: Jeff Martin

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Elevation: 15,000'

Hello from Barafu Camp, We are at our high camp and ready for our summit attempt tomorrow! The team did great again today and everybody is excited to be here at 15,000'. Today was a relatively short hiking day, climbing about 2,000' in just under three hours and reaching camp before noon. This is another great benefit to the Machame Route. Having a short day right before summit day allows us plenty of time to rest, hydrate, pack and get to bed early all in preparation of tomorrow. We'll have dinner at 5:00 and then hopefully be in bed by 6:30 at the latest. Most of us probably won't sleep much, but our bodies will get enough rest we need for the long day ahead. The alarm is set for 11:45 pm, and the plan is to be walking out of camp around 12:45. About seven hours later, we should be standing on top of Kilimanjaro. Wish us luck and we will try and give a call tomorrow from the summit. Best regards, RMI Guide Jeff Martin

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Sarah,. . . this is a totally wonderful and thrilling achievement! Congratulations!
We can’t wait to hear all about it. Love Dad & Susan

Posted by: Richard on 2/16/2014 at 10:28 pm

Way to go! Good work, Sarah and team! Thank-you for the blog, comments, etc. Sarah, you have the genes!

Love,
R&C

Posted by: Rondi Saslow on 2/16/2014 at 9:00 am

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Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer and Team Looking to Tomorrow

Kilimanjaro: Team Arrives in Arusha, Tanzania

Mt. McKinley: Linden Mallory & Team Fly on the Mountain

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Mike Walter and Team’s Rucu Pichincha Hike

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Reaches Summit!

Everest Base Camp Trek: Grom & Team Visit Climbing Legend in Pangboche

Ecuador Seminar: Weather Forces Knoff and Team Turn on Chimborazo

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Ascend the Fixed Lines

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team’s Good Living at 14,200’

Kilimanjaro: Martin & Team Ready for Summit Bid

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