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Friday, June 4, 2021 - 3:09 pm PT
After our dry run yesterday, we got to do the real thing today. We landed on to the Kahiltna at precisely 10 am, and boy was it already hot! We were hoping to hit the ground running, but talking to teams coming off the lower Kahiltna and looking at the temps we decided to take the day to review skills, dig a cache and organize.
Due to the hot temps we are switching to a night schedule so we will sleep through the heat of the day today and depart when things firm up! Morale is high and we are super excited to be on the mountain!
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and team
The
Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams reached the summit! They topped out at 8:38 am on a pleasant weather day. The teams are currently working their way back to Camp Muir and we look forward to congratulating them this afternoon at Rainier Basecamp.
Welcome to the start of the RMI Aconcagua Expedition!
Everybody in the group is in Mendoza and we are very excited. Our plan is to have dinner and try the great Argentinian beef! Tomorrow morning we will get the climbing permits and do some shopping for lunch food and other last minute items. After that we will drive three hours through the Andes Mountains and arrive at Los Penitentes (8200-8500 feet) to spend our first night at altitude and start with the acclimatization.
We will be checking in tomorrow.
-RMI Guide Gabriel Barral and the RMI Aconcagua Expedition
January 17, 2024 - 5:50 am PT
Our team reached the summit of Ixta via Ayoloco route. We are descending to high camp and will post a full update once in Puebla.
RMI Guide Mike King
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Mexico's Volcanoes January 13, 2024
This morning we got out early ahead of the other groups and were rewarded with phenomenal 360 degree views of the lush converging valleys and glaciated peaks. Usually the clouds hang between the trail and these tall mountains due to our proximity to the cloud forest. As we wrapped up our time at
Phuyupatamarca Pass, 12,130’ the clouds began to rise from the Urubamba River and the glaciers were hidden.
The day was filled with great views, warming temperatures and elaborate ruins. In particular the terraces of Intipata and Winaywayna captured the groups attention due to the scale of such a project completed on the side of a steep and heavily vegetated mountain. We are all looking forward to walking into Machu Picchu at sunrise, getting a shower at the hotel is a close second.
RMI Guide Mike King
Geese gabble on the banks of the Crooked River as it winds around the cliffs of lithified volcanic ash that make up our classroom here in Smith Rock State Park, Oregon. It's day nine of ten on the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Rock Guide Course, a program focused on multi-pitch rock guiding and rescue techniques in fourth and fifth class terrain. This course is the first step to becoming certified by the AMGA in one of three guiding disciplines - rock, alpine and skiing.
In the days leading up to this we have worked through systems on the ground and on the cliff, and have guided each other while maintaining a play-by-play discussion to ensure that each participant learns from the mistakes and successes of the others. As participants, we are here to transition from competent recreational climbers to facilitators of climbing in a professional setting. There are myriad new techniques and subtleties that I have been exposed to in the last eight days.
Today is framed as a mock exam in which participants are put in the driver’s seat for a few pitches of climbing and descending. I do my best to put it all together - to select the best new tool in my tool box and implement it successfully. Throughout the exercise I notice how much more comfortable and confident I am with this process since the first time I was given the reins only a few days ago. I now feel equipped to enter the realm beyond recreational rock climbing.
My participation in this course was made possible by the
RMI Guide Grant, and I cannot express my gratitude enough.
RMI Guide Hannah McGowan
Happy Valentine's Day from Karanga Camp. The Barranco Wall is now well behind us and the group powered right up it without any issues. We decided to switch gears a little with our departure time today. We opted to let the other climbing groups leave before us so we could take our time climbing up the Barranco Wall. It was the right call for today. As a result of the later start, we got to sleep in this morning, not rush through breakfast, and all enjoyed a little extra time in camp. Starting out, the trail is pretty steep, and there are a few rock sections that require some basic scrambling, but once through this section, it is very straightforward walking. We took a quick break about an hour up, then we took another 30 minutes before we were standing on top, looking down at our old camp 900' below. The clouds were blocking most of the views, but no one complained as we were very lucky to have only clouds and not rain. This would be our high point of the day, and then we continued traversing east towards
Karanga Camp. Along the way, we met a group of climbers called Kilimanjaro Warriors. It is a group of ten climbers, six of which are disabled veterans. Seeing these climbers today was both humbling and truly inspiring. For anyone to make this climb is a big accomplishment, but to do it without one leg, or even both legs, is remarkable. We wish them the best of luck with their climb.
In the spirit of Valentine's Day, here are a few wishes from
Kilimanjaro:
Happy Valentine's Day to my family, Tom and his family! Thank you for all the support. Sarah Sending love from Kili! Happy V-day J.W., family and friends. It's more beautiful than I could have ever imagined - of course I've cried every day. Ha!Ha! Tracey Thanks everyone for all the comments. They really help. We are feeling strong and looking forward to summiting in 2 days. We'll send our love from the top. xoxo. Have to go stretch now (Adam). Chris, Holly, & Eric.
Happy Valentine's Day Mom & Dad! Thanks for the good genes! Sue Still breathing! Happy Valentine's Day Meg! Don
Thanks again for all the comments. We will send an update from high camp tomorrow.
Best,
RMI Guide Jeff Martin
On The Map
Our Five Day Summit climb led by Seth Waterfall made a successful sunset summit of Mt. Rainier last night and are now resting back at Camp Muir. Our Four Day Summit climb led by Adam Knoff made it to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The Four Day team was 100% to the top. Both teams had clear skies and light winds.
Congratulations to today's teams!
It was plenty cold at low camp last night. Namgya bravely got out of the tent at 11 AM to fire up the stoves, even though we were still in the cold shadow. The weather held, with little cloud cover getting in our way. We watched a blanket of thick cloud fill the valley below and we could see wind tearing at the mountaintops, but we lucked out with calm and sunny conditions for our five hour and ten minute climb up to high camp.
Willie Benegas and Vern Tejas managed to get their teams to the summit deespite the winds and both were back just after we got our tents built and kitchen dug out, around 8:30 PM. Vern is the new world's record holder for Vinson ascents, with 27. I have a chance to tie him tomorrow if the weather cooperates and if my climbers are feeling fine. They seem to be. Leif Whittaker, who turned 25 the day we flew out of Punta Arenas, is cruising along as if he did this sort of thing all the time. One can't help just assuming that it is in his blood, since his Dad is Big Jim Whittaker -the first American up Everest. Sashko Kedev, our cardiologist from Macedonia was thrilled with the day on the ropes today and obviously can't wait for tomorrow. Tim Amos, our producer from New York City, has been strong and steady all along. Brent Huntsman is the team geologist from Ohio and when we slow down enough to permit conversation (not often), he explains the wild "chevron" folds in the rock we are seeing.
It is calm now (12:30 AM) at high camp, we want it to stay that way.
Not so much to report today. We were up early and off to the airport to begin our Gokyo trek. But it was raining as we passed through the streets of Kathmandu. It turned out that it was rainy and cloudy at our destination -Lukla- as well. Our gear was loaded on the helicopter and everyone and everything was ready… except for the weather. There were periods of clearing at either Kathmandu or Lukla, but never at both. And ultimately, by 2 PM (we’d been at the airport since 6 AM) the weather was still bad at both ends and getting worse. We called it quits for the day. So we finished back at the comfortable -and increasingly familiar- Yak and Yeti hotel. We’ll give it another try tomorrow.
Best Regards
RMI Guides Dave Hahn
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Kyle & Team: We’re thinking of you and wish you the best. You’ve got this! -Jonas and everyone in Anchorage.
Posted by: Jonas Walker on 6/6/2021 at 9:45 am
Happy to hear about you progress. Sounds toasty. Use that sunscreen,
Posted by: richard loftus aka Kiira's Gramps on 6/5/2021 at 2:54 pm
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