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Namaste from Lobuche!

At the beginning of the trip I told the team that no trip would be complete unless we saw a baby yak and today we saw lots of BABY YAKS! Just as we were leaving Pheriche early this morning we got lucky and saw the cutest things in the whole world roaming the valley floor.

We then headed up across the toe of the Khumbu glacier where we stopped for honey ginger lemon tea and crackers in the village of Thukla. We took our time knowing today was a little shorter! After tea, we headed uphill (once again) to the climber’s memorial. It’s a beautiful area honoring climbers that we have lost in the mountains.

We continued to follow the moraine of the Khumbu glacier up to Lobuche village. On the way, we had amazing views of Lobuche the mountain and got to see the route we will take to high camp and the summit in just a few days.

We’ve had so many laughs along the way and today was no different. One of my favorite moments was when I looked up and Jangbu, one of our Sherpa guides, was carrying Diego on his back. They’ll do anything to help us out!

Jess and the Lobuche team

When the alarm clock went off last night we were already intermittently awake, listening to the winds blowing up the Ruth Gorge and pelting our tent with snow. Sure enough, when we poked our heads out of the tent it was hard to see more than a dozen yards through the snow in the beams of our headlamps. We knew that again today wasn't a summit day so we crawled back into our sleeping bags for a few more hours of sleep. When we woke up around 5:30 the conditions hadn't improved much so we set about making breakfast and breaking camp at a leisurely pace, hoping that the clouds would lift a bit before we were done. Unfortunately, that never happened and with our packs and sleds fully loaded with our gear, we set off back up the Ruth Glacier into the fog, snow and wind. The return to Mountain House went smoothly, although the views were lacking a bit. We spent most of the time walking through the Gorge navigating by compass, GPS, and a bit of sheer reckoning. By the time we entered the Amphitheater and rounded the north side of Mt. Barille, the clouds began to lift enough for us to get a look around and we even caught glimpses of some sunshine as we made the final ascent to the landing strip at Mountain House. Once at Mountain House we set up our camp and then took advantage of the clearing in the weather to go for a short ski tour above camp before the clouds settled back in. We are back in camp now and cooking up dinner. Tomorrow morning if the clouds lift we'll get another short ski in above camp before we catch our ride in a ski plane back to Talkeetna. Keep your fingers crossed that the clouds lift enough for the plane to get in and get us! RMI Guide Linden Mallory & Team

Buenos Dias from Plaza de Argentina (4,200m). We had a wonderful rest day. Sunshine, salad, and Christmas movies have kept us entertained. But don't forget the very important medical check up. The top notch doctors at base camp checked out the group and of course everyone is healthy and ready to climb. In light of the Christmas spirit the group was given the gift of a shower to clean off the dust from the long trek in. A hot shower and clean socks are a hot commodity down here. Tomorrow we will carry some gear to camp 1. We're all looking forward to stretching our legs and seeing more of the mountain! RMI Guides Leah Fisher & JJ Justman

On The Map

The last RMI Denali team of the 2013 climbing season is in place in Talkeetna. All people (12) and all baggage (24 plus) made it to Anchorage without delay. We met at four in the afternoon and shortly thereafter we'd connected with Bill, our Denali Overland shuttle driver and we began the shuttle to Talkeetna. We got to feel the much discussed heat wave... It was hot. We took a short break in Wasilla, to take on final provisions, and then Bill took us up to Talkeetna town. Most elected to take it easy on this jet lagged evening, settling down to a comfy night in the Talkeetna Motel. Work starts tomorrow. (And there will be pictures) Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

We packed up our luggage this morning, checked out of our hotel in Quito, and headed north, towards the town of Otavalo. As much as we enjoyed our time in Quito, I think we all are very excited to leave behind the hustle and bustle of car horns and traffic, get out into the mountains, and enjoy the views of the snow covered peaks of the Ecuadorian Andes. That is, after all, why we’re here. We summited our second peak today on our final acclimatization hike. Fuya Fuya was the objective this time. At just over 14,000’, the old volcano is lower than yesterday’s climb of Rucu Pichincha but the climbing was consistently steep, from the trailhead to the summit. The trail gained elevation quickly as it climbed thru high Andean grasses, culminating in a short rocky scramble to the summit. Although the summit was in the clouds once again, the weather was terrific for the climb. We were treated to stunning views of the Laguna Mojanda below us, a large lake formed in an ancient volcanic crater. Our team also caught a brief glimpse of an Andean Condor soaring in and out of the clouds around Fuya Fuya. Now we’re all settle in at our tranquil hacienda, Casa de Sol. We’ll have a relaxing morning tomorrow, visiting the Otavalo market, before heading up to the climbing hut on Cayambe for a couple of nights. We’ll keep you posted as always... RMI Guide Mike Walter

There is something about ice climbing in a crevasse that is just mind blowing. Today the group got to experience ice climbing and how much fun it is. We headed for the foot hills of Mt. Francis to find a deep crevasse suitable for great climbing. Big smiles all day long. Tomorrow we are getting ready to go climbing Radio Tower. The team is excited to climb higher tomorrow and are doing well! RMI Guide Andres Marin

Congratulations to the Four Day Climb team led by RMI guides Brent Okita and Will Ambler for reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier!

With clear skies and breathtaking views, today’s climb was nothing short of spectacular. Huge kudos to the team for their determination and teamwork on this unforgettable journey.

Wow! The close to expeditions happen so quickly. After spending two weeks working our way into position, and then waiting for our summit window, the descent flew by. After a day of waiting for winds to die to leave 17k, we left camp in much more moderate winds, but with moderate snowfall added to the mix. The group did a great job of working down the exposed sections of the West Buttress and down the fixed lines to 14k. We ran into Dave Hahn's group there, and traded stories while sorting and organizing our cache, and then continued on our way down to 11k for the evening. Once again the weather moved in, and we arrived at 11k with a chilly wind and snowfall. We set a hasty camp, dug our cache, and ate a hot dinner, before heading to bed. With snow in the forecast for the next day, and hoping to have some visibility, we opted to wake in the dawn hours of morning. The day turned out to be perfectly clear and calm, and we walked out under warming conditions, arriving at Basecamp just in time to see five K2 airplanes land to take out 24 climbers that had been waiting to leave for several days. We were next in line, but spent the day on standby, as K2 launched plane after plane to come get us, only to have to turn around due to clouds and obscured visibility in the passes that allow access to the Alaska Range. Finally, at 8 pm, we got word that the last flight for that evening had turned around and that we would spend another night on the glacier. We set a hasty camp, and cooked up a big dinner out of all of the tasty looking ingredients we could pull from our remaining meals. The next morning dawned clear, calm, and warm, but again, clouds hung in the passes, preventing planes from making it to us, until later in the afternoon. Finally, we had planes on the runway, but the pilots hurried us along, saying it wasn't going to last, and sure enough, as we headed out, pass after pass had shutdown with big white banks of clouds. As we rounded the corner of the Pica Glacier towards Pica Pass, we say the hole we needed and scooted through, with gray rock and white glaciers giving way suddenly to bright green forest and bog lands. Landing in Talkeetna is always a shock to the senses, as smells of grass, trees, pavement, jet fuel, and everything else come flooding in. We stepped off of the planes Tuesday evening to a warm, bright, scented scene, excited to be off the glacier, and gratitude to K2 for trying so hard to get us off. This trip brought together seven climbers who previously had never met to attempt and test themselves on the tallest peak in North America. The group did an amazing job quickly coalescing into a very functional team. We moved over the mountain efficiently (critical for the weather we would see in the second half of the trip), set camp quickly and solidly, and everyone supported everyone else. It was a pleasure for the three of us guides to work with the group, and their dedication showed as the conditions became more challenging, and everyone persevered despite. Thanks for tuning in and watching our adventure progress. Until next time, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young, and team signing out!

Our team is hunkered down at the 11,000' camp still, as the weather has progressed to become a pretty significant storm. Snow is falling and winds are howling as we sit tent bound for the majority of the day. Save for breakfast and dinner, and some quick forays to the bathroom, there is really no reason to leave the relative comfort of our tents today. We're all doing well, albeit a bit eager to go climbing. Hopefully the weather breaks soon so we can get up the the 14k camp. That's all the news from this end... RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Climber Michael D. posted a great account of his recent RMI Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter on Mt. Rainier last month. It's a great read and good insight into the challenge of climbing Mt. Rainier in the winter! Read his story here See Michael's pictures from the trip here!