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Friday, June 23, 2023 – 12:33 am PDT
As usual, the weather didn't look all that great when we got up at 11,000’ Camp, so we dragged our feet while getting breakfast and packing up and watched things evolve.
We eventually committed to moving up and hit the trail at 11:20 AM. Hard work, as usual, but the team handled it all quite well. We had good luck in that Dominic Cifelli’s RMI Team was ahead of us breaking trail. It was fine to see RMI Guide Andy Bond's and crew coming down and we wished them a safe trip out.
We pulled in to 14,000’ Camp at 5:30 PM and began the tough work of building another camp. We ate outside this evening but will have the dining tent completed for AM.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team
Today we started our day at 6:30 feeling good and refreshed after a much needed night's sleep. We had breakfast, then enjoyed some goodbye songs and dance from our amazing African crew of porters, cooks, and local guides numbering 37 to our team of seven. We finished the little celebration by handing out their well deserved tips and then hit the trail one last time.
It took just under three hours to reach the park gate where the team had lunch then hopped aboard our awaiting bus for the ride back to the lodge.
Finally we are all safe and sound, cleaner, and smelling fresh after an exciting seven-day journey up and down Kilimanjaro.
Stayed tuned, Safari starts tomorrow!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kilimanjaro crew
I am thrilled to announce that yesterday at 6:45am, three members of our Ecuador climbing team successfully reached the Whymper summit of Ecuador's highest peak,
Chimborazo. Myself and our local guide Peter were the two guides leading the summit rope teams and I will say without question it was in the top five most difficult summit days of my guiding career. From our high camp at 17,300', the route made a moderate traverse underneath a giant rock feature called el Castillo translated as "The Castle". The team moved together with good style through the rocks to the exposed ridge above. It was here the route began to steepen. From the top of El Castillo at 18,000' to the crest of the Ventimilla Summit at 20,450', you could literally follow the line of ascent by holding a pencil out in front of you and the track would not deviate from its vertical alignment. No other mountain I have ever guided posses such a steep, unrelenting route as Chimbo. I'm not sure why the local guides down here have such a disdain for switch backs but on all the mountains, not just Chimborazo, the routes take the most direct line possible.
Unfortunately this type of route doesn't bode well for tired legs which have seen two giant mountains in the last five days.
By 19,000', half of the team had decided to return to camp, which secretly I was most jealous of. After waking up at 10:30, powering down some instant oatmeal while standing outside freezing, then preparing for a climb we know is going to hammer us, the thought of camp always sounds better than the alternative.
Back on the route, the snow conditions began to change for the worse. Thank God for Peter Piston Legs who, without complaint, post holed, kicked steps and blazed the trail though an old track that was literally blowing in with snow by the time each climber reached steps kicked in by the rope team in front.
Through freezing temps, difficult snow and growing fatigue, we all continued upward. Once we gained the Ventimilla Summit, we thought the kilometer traverse across the summit plateau was in the bag. But nope, not at all.
We had heard that climbing teams were reaching the lower summit but no one had been to the true summit in over two weeks! This left us breaking trail at 20,500 feet, which not even Peter found enjoyable. With the only complaints coming in the form of gasps, we marched on planting our ice axes on top just as the rising sun formed an outrageous pyramid shadow stretching for miles into the waking countryside. With hugs and high fives we all felt a great sense of accomplishment to have knocked off the hat trick of
Ecuador's three highest peaks. Something I have never done in one trip.
After a hard descent we made our way back to the Refugio and then onto a beautiful lodge where we eased the soreness away with good food, wine, beer and stories. It was a great closing to two incredible weeks of climbing together.
We all have now just gotten to our hotel rooms in Quito. The Internet is alive and well worrying some and pleasing others. Work for most is unfortunately never far around the next corner.
As we prepare for our final meal together I can't help but feel a bit bummed. This group has been truly great. I would climb with any one of them again.
From Quito this is
Adam Knoff and
Jordan Cargill signing off.
Thanks to everyone who followed along.
Muchas Suerte.
Monday, July 7, 2014 - 12:05 PM PT
Well, the team is currently experiencing deja vu here at
11,200' camp on Mt. McKinley. Before arriving here in deja vu land, the team did an AWESOME job packing up high camp and descending to 14,200' camp. At 14,200' we were met by Dave Hahn and his team who treated us to lots of hot water and quesadillas. Delicious and just what we needed!
Descending to 11 camp required all of our attention as we re-acquainted ourselves with sleds, experienced some post-holing, and walked (as best we could) through less than exciting weather. Now to the deja vu part of the story...a snow storm at 11,200'. We thought the weather gods had released all of the snow on us already but we were wrong. We are doing a weather dance right now so we can continue our descent and make our dreams of warm showers, cold beers, and loved ones a reality. Until then, we will keep you posted.
RMI Guide
Adam Knoff
We visited
Ngorongoro Crater conservation area today. It's around two million years old and is home to an abundance of wildlife. The big five live there year round and we saw four of them. Rhino, elephant, cape buffalo, and lions but no leopards. We are hoping to see one tomorrow and we're still looking for a cheetah too. It was a long day that started early and thoroughly wore us out riding around in our land cruiser standing up in the intense sun.
We have just finished a great meal here at the plantation lodge and everyone is doing well.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Our Four Day Summit Climb Team led by Casey Grom, and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Paradise reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. A cap covered the top of the mountain today making visibility low with wind gusts of 30 – 35mph. The teams started their descent back to Camp Muir at 7:26am PST.
Congratulations Teams!
The Four Day Summit Climbs lead by Win Whittaker and Jason Thompson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. It was a clear and cold morning with light winds at about 10mph. Congratulations to the teams!
BIG NEWS OF THE DAY (Dave Hahn to Mark Tucker via radio)
Our sherpa team carried everything needed for Camp 3. Tendi and the boys made it up in two hours from Advanced Base Camp (ABC) to Camp 3. We watched other sherpa going all the way to the South Col. The two halves of our team, the climbing members, met at Camp 2 for breakfast before Casey's team of four returned to Camp 1 for their final night. My four ventured up to the base of the Lhotse Face for exercise.
We reached 22,000 feet in our acclimatization effort. I was stunned to see such dry conditions on the upper section of the Western Cwm. The weather continues the normal pattern of clear in the morning and snow showers in the afternoon. We are excited to have the entire climbing team sleeping at ABC tomorrow night.
Hello from Elbrus -
The almost full moon shone brightly last night, transforming the rock morraine in which we are camped into a vague silvery landscape of shapes and shadows. By the time we awoke they were all gone, replaced by long morning shadows and the warmth of the early light. After breakfast, we packed up our packs, donned our crampons and harnesses and headed out onto the glacier.
The climbing out of Camp 1 is a long, gradually steepening ascent straight towards Elbrus' East Summit. We climbed well, the team falling immediately into the rhythm of climbing as a rope team. By midday we had navigated our way through a small series of crevasses, switchbacked up the broad northeastern shoulder of the mountain, and reached a small outcropping of rocks at an elevation of about 14,200'. From there we were witness to impressive views of the eastern Caucasus, catching glimpses of jagged snowcapped peaks that straddle the border with Georgia. Above us, the clouds and winds that scoured the upper reaches of the mountain all day held their distance and we were treated to a calm break. Amongst the rocks we cached the food and fuel we will need for our upcoming summit bid before heading back down the mountain, chased by the clouds and wind from above that just nipped at our heels, never fully engulfing us.
Back at camp, we relaxed in the warm sun for the rest of the afternoon, watching the fascinating cloud cap on Elbrus appear over the mountain's twin summits. With the weather coming straight out of the south today the wind was splitting when it hit Elbrus, pushing clouds down both the east and west sides of the mountain. From our perspective on the north side the clouds appeared to literally boil out of Elbrus' top before flowing down the sides of the mountain and dissolving. It was an incredible sight.
The winds picked up a bit in the evening as we wrapped up dinner and headed for the tents. As we turn in for the evening the tent walls rattle and shake, making the warmth of a down sleeping bag that much more inviting. Tomorrow we are planning to move to high camp in preparation for a hopeful summit bid the following day. Keep your fingers crossed for good weather!
Chimborazo Summit!
We have now traveled much of Ecuador's "Avenue of Volcanoes", visiting some of the highest mountains in this country and having the fortune to stand on top of a few:
Rucu Pichincha (15,354') - A warm-up hike that often sets a new altitude record for someone on the team
Cerro Fuya Fuya (14,039') - The first agenda item after leaving Quito, another acclimatization hike
Cayambe (18,996') - Wow, the weather almost stopped us and we were the only team to summit that day
Chimborazo (20,561') - A perfect sunrise summit this morning
Tonight, we find ourselves in the city of Riobamba, recovering from a third alpine start within a two-week vacation. As it turns out, even with built-in rest days, that is a demanding schedule. On top of climbing, there are the long bus rides and the never-ending duffel shuffle. Every member of the team has two large duffels full of mountaineering gear and general travel items that are continuously being unpacked, repacked and subsequently toted around. Hacienda and hotel staff always get a chuckle when they see how much stuff we have.
As for last night's climb, the weather worked out perfectly. It has been several days of wind and humidity on Chimborazo, which has been regularly stymying climbing parties' attempts. Even yesterday, right as we arrived at camp the clouds moved in and there was hail off and on for a couple of hours. However, in the late evening the sky cleared and it was a calm, clear night and morning. It was the perfect way to cap a trip that saw us turn around on Antisana for some pretty intense weather. We can go home with a couple big summits and start thinking about our next trips!
RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier
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Summit team and all congrats! I am in awe!
Posted by: Karen Norris on 1/12/2018 at 5:50 pm
Congrats to a great accomplishment in the beginning of 2018!! Wishing a restful few days before you start climbing again. Prayers for safety and success. MOM
Posted by: Jane Knoff on 1/12/2018 at 2:41 pm
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