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Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Ben Liken
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
The weather has definitely been improving for us. The winds have calmed, and only light snow has fallen today. The storm produced a little over two feet of snow, with deeper drifts. Hopefully the improving trend continues and we can move camp tomorrow. We're all ready and rested for some more climbing.
That's all the news from up high today.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
The Kautz Expedition Skills Seminar has wrapped things up. We had a fun time in what proved to be challenging weather and we're all happy to be warm and cozy now.
Our trip started in clouds and light precip on day one but due to the fact we had a strong team we were able to set up a great camp for our first night. On the second day we had the best weather of the trip and were able to establish a higher camp at 'the castle'. Here we spent that afternoon digging in and building walls to protect our tents from a forecasted storm.
The storm hit us overnight and we spent the next day in-the-mix as I like to say. Our walls did the trick though and we were in relative comfort as the storm raged all arounds us.
Once the storm broke we hightailed it downhill through over a foot of new snow!
After being pinned down for our climbing bid we were all a bit disappointed but we all agreed that it was a truly remarkable experience. It was all smiles as we said 'cheers' at our wrap up celebration back in Ashford.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
Hello from the Karanga Camp at about 13,000 feet. We had a great climb to get here. Right out of camp this morning is the famous Barranco Wall. We left camp at 9 a.m., which put us in a good spot to avoid some traffic on the steep part of the climb. In a few places you use hands and footholds with some exposure below. While climbing carefully and taking advantage of many photo opportunities along the way, the team got back to more level terrain. For the next couple of hours we enjoyed views of the upper mountain and interesting terrain under foot. We arrived here at 1 p.m. and were greeted to a hot lunch of noodles and sauce. Not a scrap was left on any plate after a great day on the trail. Some cloud cover now but no rain.
We are getting busy with preparing food and gear for the move to high camp tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
On The Map
This is Dave Hahn calling from the last RMI trip on Mount McKinley this season. We are still at Basecamp. We got up again this morning at 1 AM and in fact, this time we got up and had breakfast. We were in clouds, but it didn't seem that bad. Before we were done with breakfast, it started snowing and we had to get back in the tents and it didn't stop snowing for another 5 or 6 hours, and stayed cloudy and inclement for hours after that so we weren't able to move today in a white out and wet conditions. But by afternoon it cleared it up. And this evening things are crystal clear blue sky above and we're really hoping that it freezes up good and solid tonight and then we'll be on our way. Bye for now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Dave Hahn Checks in from Basecamp
On The Map
Hoping that third day lucky worked this time. Best to all as you move up thru the glacier. All well in my world Wayne, loving, Dinah
Posted by: Dinah Rogers on 7/2/2011 at 12:14 pm
Thanks for the update. One bright side in the delay is that everyone will be well rested.
Cheers to everyone on the team!!
~Jennifer
Posted by: Jennifer McKnew on 7/2/2011 at 10:30 am
Our team arrived at Everest Basecamp today around 1 p.m. They left Lobuche this morning on the last leg of their trek. The tents were set up and ready for their arrival. The team spent the afternoon getting moved into their tents, their homes for the next several weeks.
After organizing their gear and getting their barrings around Basecamp, we enjoyed a nice team dinner and everyone has headed to their tents for the first night in their new "home away from home".
Posted by: Tyler Reid
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Chile Ski
Yesterday turned out to be a stormy one on Osorno. With hopes of possible clearing we set off from the hut in weather that felt more like winter in Hokkaido than spring on the volcanoes. After 1200’ of climbing, it became apparent that things would not be improving anytime soon. We skied down, and like clockwork, the skies began to clear. But it was just a Northern Patagonia sucker hole, and soon it was pounding snow once again. We had a nice evening on the lake in the beautiful town of Puerto Varas, a great place to wrap up a very successful trip with a fantastic crew. It’s a beautiful morning as I write this, with Osorno looking proud across the water. A good reason to come back..
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
Dave Hahn with the RMI Everest Expedition. We are without internet this evening, due to forces beyond our control. We are doing fine. It was another waiting day. There was still all of that snow on the ground from the bigger storm and the threat of more falling, but in the end we didn't get that much more today. It was pretty cloudy. Our team went for a climb to the face of the the steep part in the icefall, so we went about an hour to an hour and a half breaking trail to the start of the technical sections in the icefall. We made a good morning of it, and taking it easy this afternoon mostly at camp as we wait and see. Nobody wants to push up through the icefall right now with that possibility for more snow coming. We may have to do a similar program tomorrow- hiking, exercise, training, and then will hope to hit the icefall the following day. At least Sherpas and guides going up to preview it, but that that doesn't seem worthwhile at the moment, but another day or two, we'll see. Everybody is doing well. We'll let you know what happens. Thanks.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Everest Base Camp.
Patience is a virtue….
Posted by: Ken Nelson on 4/15/2015 at 6:01 am
Nice to hear your voice live from Everest Base Camp. Bet some of the men are going through a mini Internet withdrawal. I won’t mention any names….haha. Glad you are all making the most of the conditions. Sending good thoughts for sunny days ahead. I know there is no such thing as bad weather just the wrong clothes. Love you all madly, Bonny
Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 4/14/2015 at 3:00 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Our Kautz Expedition Skills Seminar team arrived back to RMI Basecamp in Ashford, Washington, yesterday evening. We enjoyed excellent weather during the six day program, and we took advantage of it to spend lots of time climbing and training in the mountains.
We trained on a variety of skills, including various knots and hitches, anchors, crevasse rescue, and ice climbing.
On our climb, we moved camps up the mountain and went for our summit push. The Kautz Route was in a very challenging condition, and our climbers did a great job of managing the terrain. The Kautz Ice Chute was at least eight pitches (150’ rope lengths) long, with some additional steep climbing above it. The ice presented challenging climbing at high altitude, and pushed our limits. Due to the challenging nature of the ascent and a technical descent ahead of us, we opted to turn our climb around at ~13,000’, at the top of the Wapowety Cleaver. It had taken us ten hours to get to this point and only a couple of hours of glacier travel stood between us and the summit of Mount Rainier. But, we knew we had our work cut out for us to safely descend the Ice Chute and return back to camp. Everything went smoothly and it still took us ten hours to descend.
A huge 20-hour day in the mountains is very challenging, and I’m proud of our climbers for staying strong throughout the entire journey. I hope everyone has enjoyed a shower, cold beer, and flip flops…
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Mike/Ben/Leon/Nick, thanks again for a great week! George, Thomas and I are amazed by your ability to manage the risk on that route and show us what true mountaineering is. I look forward to continuing to build on the skills you taught us and hope to climb with you all again.
Climb strong!
Erik
Posted by: Erik on 8/21/2014 at 4:05 pm
Today was a big day for the team. Our 9 a.m. launch saw us cruising down the Relinchos Valley in good style and at a good pace, with a little bit of swagger in our step. The first river crossing was enough to wake up the feet, and by the time we hit the bottom and started across the Vacas River we were in full stride.
After a nice foot/leg bath in the cold and swift Vacas River, we were on the good track that runs down and out the valley. It was a long hike, and while the scenery helped occupy some of the time, by the 9th hour most folks were ready for the welcome sight of Pampa de Leñas, our campsite for the night.
We arrived and promptly set up tents. Good thing, too, as a rain squall passed up the valley and forced our crew into the small stone shelter next to the guardaparque hut. The rain couldn't dampen our spirits or our appetites, though, and we feasted on fresh asado (beef grilled over wood coals) and vegetable salad, washed down with delicious red wine.
The expedition is almost over, and the laughter drifting out of the cramped little shelter told the tale of new friends made, challenging experiences shared, and a bond that has turned this group of strangers into a strong, cohesive team. We'll finish the last little hike tomorrow, head into town, and rejoin the ranks of the civilized folks. Thanks for watching our progress, and keep it tuned in for the last of our updates.
RMI Guide Garrett Stevens
So proud of you Stefan and all the team. Have enjoyed this blog so much. Knowing you have been safe and having a good trip has taken a lot of stress off everyone here at home. Can’t wait for you to get back so we can hear all the stories. See you soon friend.
Posted by: Martha on 1/15/2014 at 4:15 am
This morning we packed up our bags, checked out of our hotel, and headed north. The first stop was at La Laguna Mojanda, a high alpine where the trailhead for our second acclimatization hike is located. We drove through clouds and rain to get there, but when we arrived we where above the clouds and could see the day's hiking objective, Fuya Fuya. Fuya Fuya is a peak that is situated on an ecological reserve, north of the town of Otovalo. The clouds moved in and out throughout the day, and we climbed up through the high-altitude grassland with periods of rain, hail, and wind. The most challenging part of the climb was staying on your feet, as the volcanic soil became quite slippery in the rain. The final 200' of the climb included a fun rock scramble to the summit. Everyone did great, and rose to the challenges that the weather presented.
Now we're warm, dry, and comfortable at the beautiful hacienda San Luis. A big dinner and a good night's rest is on tap for tonight. Tomorrow morning, we'll head to the Indigenous town of Otovalo, and spend a large part of the day enjoying the world famous Otovalo Market. After a leisurely day at the market, we'll head to the climbers' hut on Cayambe for the night. We'll spend two nights there during our summit attempt.
Ciao for now,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
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GO BRO! Your Razorback crew is praying for a safe and spectacular climb for Uncle John and the team.
Posted by: Jane on 7/29/2011 at 8:06 pm
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