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It's week three and all is well here at Everest Basecamp. Some of the team members have climbed through the icefall and camped at Camp One. A few of us have been fighting colds and coughs, but plan on heading up hill in just a few days. Being under the weather here is a big difference from being under the weather back home. First, it takes a lot longer to heal at 17,500'. Second, failing to take it easy when our bodies need it could lead to feeling worse or needing to descend to a lower altitude to recover.
Everyone has been doing a good job of taking it easy though. There has been plenty of hot showers, doing laundry, watching movies, and too many card games to count. The weather seems to be stable with crystal clear skies in the morning to cloudy in the afternoon with light snowfall. Looking forward to walking up hill soon and feeling better.
Casey
PS - Rob Suero would like to wish happy birthday to his daughter. Happy Birthday!
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
There is no way around it: there are some days where fitting my planned workout into my schedule is impossible. On the days when chores and errands catch up with me and I don’t have much time to do a workout, I have a go-to workout that I know I can do in 45-50 minutes. On a day when life feels too busy and I’m tempted to blow my workout off, having a quick workout ready helps me to stay motivated and get out the door.
My workout involves a short, 10 minute running warm-up, 15 minutes of short intervals, a 5-10 minute cool-down, and a short series of core exercises. Depending on what phase of training I am in and what my goals are, I may alter the pace, number, or duration of my intervals. During my aerobic building phase, I might run at a tempo that is slightly slower than my 5k race pace for 2 minutes, recover at a light jog for 1 minute, and repeat 4 more times. This bump in pace helps to mix up my tempo and keeps my legs feeling a bit quicker, but the effort isn’t so hard that I’m building up large amounts of lactic acid. Later in the season during an intensity phase, I might push the pace of those intervals right to my threshold, or do shorter 1 minute, all out efforts, with a full minute of recovery in between. This helps to build my anaerobic threshold, and develop my ability to recover as well. The warm up and cool down are really important for preventing injuries, and I try to resist the temptation to skip or cut short either.
The light core session to close doesn’t necessarily build a lot more strength, like a dedicated strength session would be designed to do, but it gives me maintenance. I mix up the exercises, but an example workout might be:
- 3 sets of 50 crunches
- 3 sets of 20 pushups
- and 3 sets of 20 dips
- 100 crunches (feet on the ground, curling my torso towards my knees, but not a full sit-up)
- 50 sit-ups to the side (alternating sides)
- 25 leg raises (some straight on, some to either side)
- and 100 more crunches to finish
Posted by: Mike Walter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Our Kautz Expedition Skills Seminar team arrived back to RMI Basecamp in Ashford, Washington, yesterday evening. We enjoyed excellent weather during the six day program, and we took advantage of it to spend lots of time climbing and training in the mountains.
We trained on a variety of skills, including various knots and hitches, anchors, crevasse rescue, and ice climbing.
On our climb, we moved camps up the mountain and went for our summit push. The Kautz Route was in a very challenging condition, and our climbers did a great job of managing the terrain. The Kautz Ice Chute was at least eight pitches (150’ rope lengths) long, with some additional steep climbing above it. The ice presented challenging climbing at high altitude, and pushed our limits. Due to the challenging nature of the ascent and a technical descent ahead of us, we opted to turn our climb around at ~13,000’, at the top of the Wapowety Cleaver. It had taken us ten hours to get to this point and only a couple of hours of glacier travel stood between us and the summit of Mount Rainier. But, we knew we had our work cut out for us to safely descend the Ice Chute and return back to camp. Everything went smoothly and it still took us ten hours to descend.
A huge 20-hour day in the mountains is very challenging, and I’m proud of our climbers for staying strong throughout the entire journey. I hope everyone has enjoyed a shower, cold beer, and flip flops…
RMI Guide Mike Walter
(Voicemail from Linden)
We left Pheriche early this morning and trekked our way through Thokla, this sits on the terminal moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. We climbed to the top of Thokla Pass to view the climbers' memorials draped in prayer flags. By midday we had arrived at our tea house in Lobuche.
We spent the afternoon relaxing and acclimatizing at our new altitude of 16,200'. Everyone is acclimatizing very well. We will spend one day here hiking and relaxing and enjoying the great views.
As we move through Lobuche and onto Everest Base Camp, communication can be difficult but we will do our best to keep in touch. Tell everyone at home "Hello" we are having a great time and are very excited to be so close to EBC!
Linden
Yesterday morning at Chilcabamba we awoke to beautiful weather: clear skies, no wind, and excellent views of Cotopaxi. After driving into Cotopaxi National Park, we hiked up to the climbers' hut on Cotopaxi at nearly 16,000'. Today there are some scattered snow showers and inntermitent clouds, but nothing too serious. We enjoyed a short hike to the glacier, and a review of ice axe and cramponing skills. This afternoon we're lounging around the hut. We'll hit the sack early tonight, in order to rest enough before our alpine start--we'll most likely leave for the summit in the middle of the night.
I'll be in touch tomorrow. Hopefully the weather treats us well.
Wanting to make the best of our closing weather window, I managed to convince our team to forego our rest day today and go for our third summit in three days, Villarrica. Our alpine start began with a three-hour drive, arriving at a socked-in trailhead. Was this a good idea? It didn’t seem like it until the early afternoon when we popped above the clouds. The mental fatigue of skinning in a whiteout gave way to nice views and general alpine enjoyment, even as the wind increased. We tagged the top, peered into the active crater, and 5,500 feet later were drinking beer in the parking lot. Tomorrow the storm arrives, and we rest.
RMI Guide Tyler Reid
The day dawned clear and sunny again but with wind tossing a little snow around up high. We ate a farewell breakfast at high camp and got packing. The team was roped up by 11:15 AM and ready to climb down. Considering our heavy packs, the long and steep fixed rope section went quite well. With no particular difficulty we reached low camp and got busy shuffling and resorting gear, food and garbage for hauling sleds on the lower mountain. Travel was easy then, on a well-packed snow trail and we reached Vinson Base by 4:30 PM. Up went the tents, one more time. Although the weather was fine for flying, ALE's planes were elsewhere and engaged with other missions. We are told that prospects are excellent tomorrow for getting not only to Union Glacier but all the way to Punta Arenas, Chile. If that holds, then perhaps JJ's steak dinner over camp stoves tonight was our last meal together. If so, it was an excellent and peaceful gathering. We've shared success and plenty of hard work these past weeks. The team loved hearing the "blog comments" that the RMI office emailed to us (we don't have the ability to surf the web ourselves). It helped a great deal to know so many were following our progress. Thank You.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Congrats on a successful trek. Look forward to getting John back home.
Posted by: Dudley on 12/7/2014 at 5:42 am
Thank you for all your updates! It has been awesome reading and great pictures. Looking forward to Chris’ stories.
Love, Mom
Posted by: Carol Colleran on 12/6/2014 at 10:39 pm
Hello everyone, this is Elias and the Alpamayo Climbing team Thursday the 24th. It is 9:45 local time and we are calling from Camp 2. Guess what? We just summited this morning. We didn't have a chance to call from the summit, it's a pretty gnarly ridge, pretty exposed and there were some winds. We were a six person team, all the climbers Tony, Kenzie, Parker and Peter made it up. So pulling the sat phone out was a little bit out of the question. But we are psyched. We had an awesome climb. These guys were super strong and climbed really, really quick and efficient. Like I said we are back at camp, safe and sound.
We are looking forward to starting our descent. The plan is now to take a couple hours rest here and pack it up and initiate our descent to base camp where our cook, Emile, we hopefully be waiting with a nice meal, really well earned.
That is pretty much it for now. As an antidote, we would like to share that, we had a chance, to high five reknown Swiss climber Ueli Steck who was climbing here in the Cordillera Blanca and happened to climb Alpamayo today. It was pretty nice to see him climb next to us and, of course, smoked us on the way up. But hey, he's a different league, and we feel pretty satisfied with the job done. We were the first one's out of camp, the first one's on the summit and the first one's down back to camp.
We are reporting incredible weather, incredible views and everybody is psyched.
And if you stay tuned we will be checking in tonight when we arrive back at Base Camp, out of the glacier and ready to return to Huaraz tomorrow. That's it from me right now and thanks to all of you who have been following us. We will check in tonight when we are out of the mountains.
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos checks in after reaching the summit of Alpamayo.
After a nice evening of sunshine, we awoke again today to light snow and wind, and very limited visibility. Again, this is fine with us as we could use another rest day before moving to high camp at over 17,000'. The weather forecast this morning indicated that we may see some significant snow tomorrow, before this system moves out later in the week.
We're all enjoying some down time, but we are eager to climb higher also. Patience is paramount as we sit in this holding pattern. We'll keep you posted with our progress with regular updates. If anybody out there can pull some strings and hook us up with perfect, sunny and warm weather for our summit bid, we'll buy you a beer when we get back to civilization!
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Stan et al—Snow! I would love to see snow, right now! I hope you are not too bored and are able to read and rest! The scenery looks very nice. We are fine. Take care, love me
Posted by: Betsy on 6/26/2012 at 1:04 pm
We are watching and hoping for more sun and clear weather. Patience is a good thing…wish I had some but you are making great progress and soon you will summit! Love from your Vermont buddies.
Posted by: Helen and Mike Bridgewater on 6/26/2012 at 11:19 am
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Sleeping in has never felt better! Today there were no calls for hots while the temps outside hovered near the 0 degree mark. We got up when the sun warmed up the inside of the tent and the frost on the tent walls and ceilings started dripping on our foreheads.
Today was a day to linger over our brunch of smoked salmon, bagels and cream cheese. Have a third cup of something, and just relax. Yes, at one point we did feel obliged to fortify camp as all smart climbers would, but many hands made for short work of this chore.
We also hosted our successful RMI team led by Billy and Solveig to some fine bacon and cheese bagels. These guys were on their way down the mountain to catch a plane off the glacier.
So far the weather looks good for us to move camp up to 17,200'. We're all excited for the move, seeing how it will put us in great position to finally make our summit bid. We'll try to catch you tomorrow for an update, but given the tremendous amount of work we have in store, it may be delayed.
Good night,
RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Maile
I hope this is the right team! I wanted to give a shout out to Frank Saunders! I am watching progress here in Memphis at Armstrong! What an incredible experience! So proud of you! Have fun and can’t wait to hear all about the details when you get back!
Posted by: Monica on 5/31/2011 at 6:46 am
sounds you you all had a great deserved day of rest. Maile I know how much you like to have your nap so I hope you got one in. Hope the weather holds for you guys Miss ya girl xoxo Mom
Posted by: ginny myers on 5/30/2011 at 6:42 am
Mike/Ben/Leon/Nick, thanks again for a great week! George, Thomas and I are amazed by your ability to manage the risk on that route and show us what true mountaineering is. I look forward to continuing to build on the skills you taught us and hope to climb with you all again.
Climb strong!
Erik
Posted by: Erik on 8/21/2014 at 4:05 pm
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