I probably shouldn't have accepted the toast from Dave Hahn...after all, red wine with antibiotics to treat a deep-seated chest infection is perhaps not doctor recommended. But, how could I pass it up?
It was nearly 10 years ago that Dave and I and three others - Conrad Anker, Andy Politz, and Tap Richards - stood on a lonely patch of rock at nearly 27,000 feet on Everest's North Face, each in stunned silence, for lying at our feet were the remains of a legend, a hero, a mystery: George Leigh Mallory. He and his climbing companion, Andrew Irvine, had disappeared 75 years before, virtually without a trace, some 800 feet below the summit.
Yup, this is definitely an anniversary worth toasting, antibiotics or not.
That day was, and is now, the most poignant day in my climbing career, far surpassing the fleeting moments I've spent on top of the world, or on top of other peaks around the world. Far removed from personal achievement, our discovery of Mallory was a collision with history, a step back in time, and a humbling, welcome reminder that our goals and accomplishments, successes and failures in the mountains - and in life - are predicated on the efforts of remarkable people who came before. We are, as I wrote in Issue 1000 of Trail & Timberline Magazine, standing on the shoulders of giants.
Indeed, as I sit in my basecamp tent reflecting on May 1, 1999, I can't help but think about my predecessors on this side of the mountain...May 1, 1963, when Jim Whittaker and Nawang Gombu (clad in Eddie Bauer down) struggled through deep snow and blasting winds to stand on the summit of Everest, Jim becoming the first American to reach the top. (Two years later, Gombu would reach the summit again on an Indian expedition, becoming the first person to reach the summit twice.)
Whittaker and Gombu's ascent was made no less impressive by the tracks that came before: Hillary and Tenzin in 1953, the Swiss in 1956 and the oft-forgotten Swiss expedition of 1952, which put Raymond Lambert and Tenzin Norgay within 800 feet of the summit. And, of course, their tracks were only made possible by the reconnaissance expeditions of '50 and '51. And, those, in turn, were enabled by the efforts of the pioneering Everesters of the pre-World War II expeditions of 1938, '36, '35, '33, '24, '22, and 1921. None of those would have happened without Sir Martin Conway, the Duke of Abruzzi, Fanny Bullock Workman, General Bruce, Sir Francis Younghusband, John Noel, and countless others who pushed the limits years before. And...the tracks go back through the ages, each generation standing on the shoulders of the giants who came before.
To some, that may be demoralizing...to them, the idea that someone had climbed the route before takes something essential away from the enterprise today. For me, however, it is far from demoralizing, and rather is invigorating. To look around me high in the Western Cwm, and see hidden in the layers of snow the footsteps of Hillary and Tenzin, the toil of Whittaker and Gombu, the inspiration of those who came before...well, it inspires me to push on against the demon of the day, against the gnawing forces of inertia, lethargy, and the want of comfort, rest, food, and air. Seeing the giants in these hills, the things they accomplished and all they endured, pushes me onward, upward, and forward.
May 1, 1999, was an amazing day, a direct interaction with one of the many giants on whose shoulders we all stand. Tonight, perhaps another toast...
Another day on the trail and today, is one of the longest distances.
What started as a light drizzle transformed into moody cloudy overlooking the vast scenery that Torres Del Paine offers. Baby blue glacial lakes, jagged ridges, and jurassic valleys were the theme of the day as we walked the Patagonian flat trail. To top it off? The Paso de Vientas showed us what it was made of. Just enough wind to make it fun, not quite enough to lift us off our feet like a kite.
Lago Dickson was the destination of the day, and it's like a mirage here. A small peninsula surrounded by the lake that feeds the Paine River. We walked the beach, played farkle (of course) and tried out a new (Alex and Jackie created) card game.
The team goes to Camp Pedro's tomorrow, our most rustic of the trip. We'll get ready for the big climb and descent over John Gardner pass. Wish us good weather and safe travels! So far, the weather has been just our luck, Patagonian perfect.
The team arrived in Mendoza with all of their gear. The first hurdle of any expedition is the logistical hoops one must jump through in order to pack and prepare. It can feel like quite a challenge to ‘feel ready’ when you step on to the gravel at the trailhead, but the team has it dialed in and we’re truly ready for the expedition ahead of us. Uspallatta, a small town a little ways outside the mountain, was our humble abode last night. We took the time to enjoy the creature comforts of the hotel after packing our bags for the journey ahead. Laying in grass, reading our respective books, and taking naps is how we spent our time after the work was done. The night wasn’t complete until the team and other hotel guests were singing and dancing in a Congo line with live music to boot. Expedition life can be so tough sometimes. Today we leave the comforts of hotels and head out on the trail for our first mountain day. We will do one more pack in the town of Penitentes and prepare our gear for the rigorous journey up the Vacas Valley to Plaza Argentina. Wish for tailwinds, scattered clouds for shade, and cool temps for the trek into Basecamp!
Thanks for following along!
RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli, Jack Delaney and Jess Wedel
Very comfortable night out in the bush. Not until sunrise when the bird alarms went off did anything but a lullaby come from our surroundings. A couple hours of game driving brought us out of the park but not before some lions, elephant, giraffe to name just a few bid us farewell. Fpur of the team stayed for one more night at Balloon Camp while the rest of us are back at Arumeru Lodge getting ready for a transfer to the airport. Another fine expedition is now in the books.
Thanks for following!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Dave Hahn with the RMI Everest Expedition. We are without internet this evening, due to forces beyond our control. We are doing fine. It was another waiting day. There was still all of that snow on the ground from the bigger storm and the threat of more falling, but in the end we didn't get that much more today. It was pretty cloudy. Our team went for a climb to the face of the the steep part in the icefall, so we went about an hour to an hour and a half breaking trail to the start of the technical sections in the icefall. We made a good morning of it, and taking it easy this afternoon mostly at camp as we wait and see. Nobody wants to push up through the icefall right now with that possibility for more snow coming. We may have to do a similar program tomorrow- hiking, exercise, training, and then will hope to hit the icefall the following day. At least Sherpas and guides going up to preview it, but that that doesn't seem worthwhile at the moment, but another day or two, we'll see. Everybody is doing well. We'll let you know what happens. Thanks.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Everest Base Camp.
Nice to hear your voice live from Everest Base Camp. Bet some of the men are going through a mini Internet withdrawal. I won’t mention any names….haha. Glad you are all making the most of the conditions. Sending good thoughts for sunny days ahead. I know there is no such thing as bad weather just the wrong clothes. Love you all madly, Bonny
Hey everybody out there in RMI adventure blog land. Billy here, I'm checking in with our group from Pampa de las Lenas after our walk down from Base Camp today. Hot and sunny, lots of river crossings, sore feet but some of the mule drivers are cooking up a steak asado dinner for us tonight, and then we'll hit the sack. Tomorrow we'll continue our walk out of the Vacas Valley and hit the road, and then head back to Mendoza. So the next check in, we'll be saying hello from the hotel in Mendoza. And that's all for now.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Hello to you from blog land! I am so sorry the weather didn’t cooperate- I cannot imagine how frustrating that must have felt. I also cannot imagine having the strength and determination and skill to climb 20 thousand plus! Please accept a heartfelt congratulations for all that you did, and perhaps more importantly, all that you didn’t do. It takes tremendous courage to make smart choices.
Sending you all laughter, foot massages, delicious food, sweet rest, comfort and lots of Love,
BB
Things are getting pretty darn exciting here. Our team is packed and ready to go! Everyone had a casual morning catching up on some well-deserved sleep.
After a hearty breakfast and for me...one too many cups of coffee, we packed our personal gear in two categories. One, we arranged our mountain duffels, which will be carried by our team of porters. This duffel holds all the items we don't need until we get to camp. And two, we packed our day packs we will carry on our backs as we trek. It's nice to have a lighter pack full of water and a few clothing items. Hey! Don't judge. It's just the way we do things on Kilimanjaro. And believe me, we put the luxury, in luxury travel.
We are super excited to hit the trails and enjoy the beauty of Kilimanjaro. For now it's another great gourmet meal at the lodge.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Jambo!
We had a great first day and night on Kilimanjaro. We awoke this morning to perfect climbing conditions. After our team breakfast we packed our bags and set out for our next camp on the Shira Plateau.
We ascended to 12,000' traveling through the "Giant Heather" zone to our camp over looking the majestic Great Rift Valley. Before reaching camp the afternoon rains began so we grabbed our rain gear and continued on. With our dining tent and all our sleeping tents set up by our great mountain staff when the team reached camp, we have remained dry throughout the afternoon and evening. We will have a nice team dinner before retiring to our tents for the evening.
The weather already looks like it is starting to clear so we'll hope for clear skies by morning when we set out on the trial again.
We will check in again soon!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Dr. Fletcher…everyone at work is asking about you and if I’ve heard from you. I’ve shared the info on this blog and we’re ALL SO EXCITED! Can’t wait to hear all about it when you return. Go Tucker & Team and GO PIRATES!!
Posted by: Sandy Nobles on 7/28/2011 at 8:47 am
...sounds like you are having a great climb so far…shout out from middle tennessee to dr fletcher…:o)...
Travel day to Altzimoni hut.
The roads were great as we drove from La Malinche to Amecameca to do a little final food shopping and check out the colorful local market.
Then we finalized our approach to the Altzimoni hut and spent the afternoon sorting our gear, setting up tents and taking a walk to scope our route on Ixtaccihuatl.
Tomorrow we will move to our high camp and prepare for our summit attempt.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
It was a bright and beautiful morning. We sat in silence, slurping our coffee, and enjoying the last bites of our final basecamp breakfast. Our last for the foreseeable future. We embraced our basecamp staff members with smiles on our faces and set out to begin our official climb on Cerro Aconcagua. "¡Buenas Suerte!" they said, as we waved goodbye. "¡Hasta luego!" we said, as we know we will get to see them again.
As we journeyed up the trail to Camp 1, we could still feel the cool breeze from the early morning freeze. It wasn't long, however, before the high altitude sun warmed us. It was another tough day getting to our destination, but we arrived in high spirits and indulged in some much needed rest. We again witnessed a stormy spectacle as we ate tasty bites for dinner. Now we're settled into the warmth of our sleeping bags, excited to see what all the hooplah is about at Camp 2 tomorrow before returning to Camp 1 for another night.
Patience is a virtue….
Posted by: Ken Nelson on 4/15/2015 at 6:01 am
Nice to hear your voice live from Everest Base Camp. Bet some of the men are going through a mini Internet withdrawal. I won’t mention any names….haha. Glad you are all making the most of the conditions. Sending good thoughts for sunny days ahead. I know there is no such thing as bad weather just the wrong clothes. Love you all madly, Bonny
Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 4/14/2015 at 3:00 pm
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