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Friday, June 15, 2018 - 6:00 PM PT
And it is a wrap up!
The
Alaska Alpine Climbing program came to an end. After 7 days of straight climbing with no rest or weather days, we flew out on time to beat the bad weather without risking getting stuck on the glacier. All in all, success all around! A changing weather morning made us pack up quick and the word was out from our pilots at K2 Aviation that heavy winds might delay our pick up; other areas were shut down for flying! In a record time we dismantled our camp and we were pulling our last load into the Pika Glacier Runway as the plane showed above us. A bumpy ride to Talkeetna brought us to the land of beer and pizza (and showers!) and after unpacking and cleaning our gear, the team enjoyed a nice meal as we shared the best moments of the trip. We already made it to Anchorage, and everyone is off to home. As for the guides, we're already looking forward to our next expedition in 2019!
RMI Guide Elías de Andrés Martos
On The Map
The
Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Alpine led by
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Chase Nelson were able to fly off the Pika Glacier yesterday evening during a break in the weather. Despite the weather, the team had several great days of climbing including successful climbs of Lost Marsupial and the Middle Troll.
Congratulations climbers!
We can't complain about the two days of bad weather that prevented us from flying on when it is this beautiful at base camp. The weather here is stellar and watching the sun track across the greater Alaska range has the team in awe. Distant Avalanches off Mt. Hunter and Foraker provide awesome viewing in between skills training. Today we traveled up the SE fork of the Kahiltna for an attempt on
Horiskey's Hump (Radio Tower) but poor slope conditions turned us back. Not as much snow sticking to the slopes here this year and firm conditions on steep terrain forced us to make a conservative decision. The team is very thankful for the chance and they learned a great deal about themselves.
Tomorrow we train and prepare for an attempt on Kahiltna Dome!
RMI Guide
Leon Davis and Team
Hi, this is Seth writing you from the Everest Bakery and Cyber Cafe in Namche Bazaar. It's a beautiful day in the Khumbu.
Our schedule calls for a rest day today in order to allow our bodies to adjust to the altitude here. It's kind of strange to have to acclimatize to a location that is a fully functioning town. But a slow and steady approach to basecamp is necessary to keep us healthy for the upcoming climb.
Namche is a beautiful village located in a high amphitheater surrounded by craggy peaks. The town is bustling with trekkers from all over the globe which give it a very cosmopolitan feel. It's the Sherpa capital and it's cool to see all of the guys moving through town on their way to basecamp. It must be climbing season.
The team is doing well and everyone is enjoying the trek so far. A few of us were able to get a glimpse of Everest this morning, which was great. It's as big as I remember!
Tomorrow we are taking a day hike to the village of Kumjung and hopefully we'll be able to get views of Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Lhotse and of course Everest.
Hello again everyone
The team had a good nights rest last night and today just a short 2.5hr hike up to 15’000ft to our high camp. It started out looking like we might have some sun, then luickly clouded up. Thankfully we arrived at camp right before a little squall blew through bring snow/hail.
The team has just wrapped up lunch and discussed in great detail the plan for tomorrow’s climb. Everyone knows what we’ll be wearing, what will be in the pack, as well as the schedule.
Our game plan will be to wake at 11pm and have a quick breakfast at 11:30, then hopefully hit the trail right at midnight. The team has been doing great thus far and I’m expecting us to reach the summit in 7 to 8hrs if things go according to plan.
I’m also going to bring our Satellite phone to hopefully make a few calls from the summit. One lucky trivia winner will get 2. This winner is a big fan of gymnastics!
So everyone back home please keep your phones handy and if you receive a call from a strange number please answer. We are 8+hrs ahead of the east coast time zone.
Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kili Crew
It's here! The final RMI
Aconcagua expedition of 2014! The team of climbers and Guide extraordinaire Katrina and myself are set to go. We had a great time in Mendoza and Penitentes and we are revving to go. We have a day of sunshine ahead of us to get to our first trek camp at Pampa de Las Leñas. Follow along to see how much fun we have on Aconcagua.
RMI Guide JJ Justman
On The Map
Hello again from Russia!
We woke to clear skies and cool temps which made for nearly perfect hiking conditions on
Mt. Elbrus. After a wonderful breakfast of porridge and mini pancakes prepared by our friendly Russian cook, we set out on another acclimatization hike. The team did great and reached an altitude of just over 15,000' in a little under 4 hours. On our descent the clouds came in and almost like clockwork began sprinkling on us right as we pulled back into camp. Lucky us!
We had another delicious lunch and some of us played a little cribbage, while others retired for a nice siesta.
Everyone is in good spirits and looking forward to having a rest day before our upcoming climb.
RMI Guide Casey and crew
On The Map
Saturday, June 8, 2013
Waking early this morning we shouldered out packs and made a bid to move some supplies higher on the mountain. Mild but cold enough temps kept the walking comfortable and we were able to cache at 11,000' camp before the sun came out in force. The team did great, and we made it back to our camp at the base of
Ski Hill before the heat really turned on.
Now we are hiding in whatever shade we can find before an early dinner and bed. If the weather holds or at least remains workable, we will fire for 11 Camp in the wee hours tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
On The Map
We went to bed last evening to a blue bird sky after nearly 8 inches of new snow during the day. Today we woke to the same, blue bird weather and light wind. The crew broke camp at 14K fairly early, in good fashion, and headed on our way to the fixed lines. The clear sky made for a bone chilling morning until the major work up the lines started and we were greeted by the welcome rays of the sun, which warmed our souls. The West Buttress was windless and by far provided us with the best views and exposure the team has faced. The clear day gave us views over 10,000' below to the lower Kahiltna Glacier, while Denali stood proud and urged us higher. It was as good as it gets; in fact several folks said it was their best day climbing ever. We climbed for more than six hours so the the team is definitely enjoying some down time while trapping some evening heat in the tents.
With a bit of luck from the weather and wind we will shoot for a summit in the AM on the 17th. Thank you all for the warm wishes - the team has greatly enjoyed all the comments. Keep the positive vibes. We will report back soon.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones and team!
On The Map
Greetings from Basecamp,
The team that is now at Camp One for a night or two, will complete the first rotation of the climb when they return to Basecamp.
Great weather here, but strong winds up at the 22,000 ft level created tough conditions for the team working on putting new ropes up the Lhotse Face. They were still able to place some five hundred meters of fixed line, a great start to a very crucial and difficult phase of the climb, good job men!
Twenty years ago today I was on the North side of Everest with the International Peace Climb. Our goal was to summit on Earth Day, April 22, we pushed hard but the weather shut us down. To avoid trouble you have to be patient. Two weeks later the first group of our expedition stood on top.
Happy Earth Day.
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Hey Team. Conrad and I were there 2 yrs ago!! My birthday!!!
Casey and Crew!!! The absolute best!!!!!
God speed See all 5 on safari!!!!
We saw 4!!! Ouch. Missed the leopard!!!
Go get him/her!!
Enjoy. Monumental!!!
Posted by: Stanley Golovac on 1/28/2020 at 3:41 pm
I cannot even believe my own, amazing mother just called me from the summit of Kilimanjaro to tell me that they made it and that she loves me. I teared up a little bit just realizing that they set this goal so long ago and now they’re finally accomplishing it.
I am so proud of you mom and you too Sheldon. I love you both very much.
Love, Sienna :)
Posted by: Sienna Brane on 1/25/2020 at 7:58 pm
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