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Vinson Massif Expedition:  Team #2 Flies to Union Glacier

We had an early wake up call this morning and were down in the hotel lobby by 4:30 am. The word was that the weather was cooperating and the flight would go as scheduled. We loaded up into the bus and headed out. We had a few more climbers to pickup on the way to the airport and then we went into the terminal for the standard boarding process. As we mentioned yesterday, there was going to be a stop en route to Union Glacier to re-fuel. This was the first time that this was done by our outfitter and it went very smoothly, only adding a little more time the flight. The group landed at Union Glacier around 2:00 pm local time. Now they are settled in and are enjoying their first night on the ice. The plan now is for the team to spend a day or two at Union Glacier and then fly to Vinson Basecamp where they will meet up with Dave Hahn. We might not get a dispatch out while the team is at Union Glacier, but will definitely dispatch once they start their climb. Best regards, RMI Guide Jeff Martin
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Mt. Rainier: September 9th - Summit!

"It's another beautiful day here on the summit of Mt. Rainier with no wind" was the radio call from Tyler Jones this morning at 7:42am PST as he and Billy Nugent successfully led another Four Day Summit Climb Team to the top of Mt. Rainier. The teams were able to spend some time on the summit before starting their descent back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to Today's Teams!
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Mt. Rainier: August 11, 2011 - Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climbs led by Brent Okita and JJ Justman were standing on Columbia Crest at 7:05am PST this morning. According to Guide Brent Okita “It’s a beautiful and clear morning up here with a chilly breeze from the north." The teams will be spending some time on the summit before they make their descent back to Camp Muir. Our Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise led by Adam Knoff also checked in this morning their training is going very well. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today for his 100th time! Congratulations to our Four Day Summit Climb teams and a special congratulations to Seth Waterfall!
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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Dave Hahn & Team Ready to Fly

Our climb has had a flawless beginning thus far. True, we haven't actually hoisted a pack, walked uphill or even set foot on a glacier yet, but that will all come soon enough. First things first... yesterday the climbing team came together down in Anchorage and shuttled on up to Talkeetna. Today was actually jam-packed with orienting provisioning and preparing for our climb. If all goes well, we hope that K2 Aviation will be able to fly us on to the Kahiltna Glacier tomorrow morning. It seems the weather has been a little sloppy of late, although it did break long enough today for planes to get in and out of Kahiltna Basecamp a few times, retrieving the RMI team led by Jake Beren. It was great to chat with his guides and climbers as to current conditions on the hill. Combined with the briefing we received from the National Park Service this morning and what we've gathered from other acquaintances in the streets and eateries of Talkeetna throughout the day, we are feeling quite knowledgeable as to what we may find. Next step is to go and see for ourselves. We had a fine dinner at the busy West Rib Pub before retiring -with fingers crossed for easy flying conditions- to our comfy beds in the Talkeetna Motel. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Gokyo Trek: Hahn & Team Finish Their Journey

Everything went like clockwork this morning, smooth and easy.  We ate a last trek breakfast and walked toward the Lukla heliport at 7 AM.  There were clouds, but there were also plenty of aircraft coming and going already.  After a short wait and weigh-in session, we were ushered out and into a running A-Star B3.  The pilot went right to work and we cruised out over farms, ridges, rivers and terraces.  He took us around clouds but there were always plenty of open avenues.  After 45 minutes we’d reached the busy Kathmandu airport.  Within minutes we went from being a famous and well above average trekking team to just another van full of tourists in a big city.  We checked back into the comfy Yak and Yeti and headed for the showers.  It was a day for catching up, for mingling with other trekkers and climbers and for getting ready for the next phase… the big travel chore.  But first, we went over to Thamel, the busy tourist and trekker Mecca for a last relaxed dinner together at the New Orleans Cafe.  We toasted a fine journey… one that wasn’t always easy, but one that seemed very much worth the trouble. 

Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mexico’s Volcanoes: Westling & Team Summit Orizaba

All who attempted had a successful summit of Pico de Orizaba today!

Starting at the alpine hour of 1AM, the stars let us know we had a clear morning to climb. Everything went seamlessly as we ascended through steep rocks to the start of the Jamapa glacier. We roped up with our ice axes in hand and climbed to the summit, enjoying the sunrise and shadow of the mountain stretching far across the landscape from 18,491’. 

Although this mountain takes a lot out of us climbers, everyone was in high spirits afterwards, knowing our trip was successful and complete. 

Tonight, we celebrate our trip and our last night as a team!

RMI Guide Abby Westling

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Knoff & Team Continue Their Acclimatization

Yesterday as our team of acclimating, moth parenting, cloud touching gringos strolled up Rucu Pichincha, a storm was unleashing 40 miles to the south.  In Espanol they might say it was raining perros y gatos, but luckily we never felt a drop.  Ever since the team arrived, our weather has been a bit squirley leaving us to wonder if we might actually get wet somewhere along the line.  

As we packed Victor’s magic bus today, the clouds swirled above but not as noisily as the traffic around us.  Forty-five minutes after departing our gracious hotel hosts, we gathered speed around a four lane roundabout and were literally shot out of the city like something breaking free from a strange orbit.  Three hours and 50 miles later we found ourselves at a beautiful crater lake named Largo Mojanda.  As Americans we want to pronounce this with a true "j" sound, making this lake sound like some kind of volcanic jelly, but in Espanol, the "j" sounds like an "h" and the "o" is long giving it a more majestic feel. 

The mountains we climbed don’t take as much tutoring to figure out.  Fuya Fuya is the name of the twin peaks we ascended leaving only images and not so much phonetics to the imagination.  Much like yesterday, the weather held and we were blessed with another summit and beautiful vistas of the deep blue lake and surrounding peaks.  The climbing wasn’t difficult but watching Jerome plunge into the frigid water was.  When he asked me it it was okay to swim, I looked at him and said, “I don’t know, is it?”  I certainly wasn’t risking my skin against fresh water volcanic flesh eating trout.  He went in but came out quicker. 

From the lake we descended the bumpy cobble road to our favorite lunch spot and then to the hacienda for some rest, packing and preparing for tomorrow’s big move to 15,000' on the flanks of Cayambe.  This is a big jump so wish us luck.  But, before we go to the mountain we will go shopping!  All faithful blog followers get a gift.  

Stay tuned.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome job guys. Sounds like you have an extremely strong team. Wishing everyone a safe and successful summit.

Posted by: Kevin Durbon on 1/27/2020 at 4:29 am

Glad to hear the weather has been good for your journey. Enjoying the pictures that are posted. Save up your energy. Sounds like you all have lots of hard work ahead. Remember…lots of people are cheering for you!!! LUMTA 1TF

Posted by: Geri Kuehn on 1/25/2020 at 10:13 pm


Mt. Elbrus: Grom & Team Summit!

Casey Grom and his Mt. Elbrus team reached the summit! Everyone is down safe and they will check in later today. RMI Guide Casey Grom

On The Map

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Wow. Looks like a clear sky and beautiful weather. Good for you. Congratulations!

Posted by: Fernando de Aragon on 8/2/2014 at 6:33 pm

Congratulations !!! Great summit picture. Thanks to the guides for everything.  Enjoy your. success.

Posted by: Josie on 8/2/2014 at 9:41 am


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Send Poetry from 11,000’ Camp

June 25, 2014 - 10:42pm PT Here I sit in my tent Wondering where the day went A rest day at eleven camp for the team With people in and out of their dreams Mike Haugen and troupe passed through Delivering a pee bottle to Adam -- woohoo! For breakfast we had chocolate and pb pancakes (booya!) While we watched the snow flakes. For now the wind is pretty strong, and hopefully we won't have to shovel all night long. RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Lindsay Mann and Andy Hildebrand
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Tell Dave Schick he is drinking too much water… :)

Hope the weather cooperates for a nice summit bid.

Best,
Jack

Posted by: Jack on 6/27/2014 at 9:38 am

Hope all is going well and the Team makes the camp today!

Love to my sis!  And all my best to the team!

Posted by: Carolyn on 6/27/2014 at 8:52 am


Aconcagua: Nugent and Team back in Mendoza

Thanks to everyone that have followed along... The team is back in Mendoza and enjoying some of the finer things in life: food, wine, sunshine, hanging by the pool, etc. We had a great team dinner last night and are now hanging out and lazing around while we wait for our flights back to the states and Canada. Despite not getting the summit we had a ton of fun and a hell of an adventure. I'd like to take this opportunity to thank the group for being fun, hard-working, and determined. 'til next year, RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Walter Hailes and Katrina Bolemsma
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Hi—

We’ve loved following your journey, team. Thank you for sharing it : )

Posted by: Rocky the climbing pup (and Kendra) on 1/22/2014 at 6:46 pm

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