Most Popular Entries
The stellar September weather continues as our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Brent Okita and Tyler Reid reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today at 7:05am PST. The teams were greeted with clear skies, no wind, and amazing views. After spending some time on the summit the teams have started their decent back to Camp Muir.
Temperatures at Ashford Basecamp are clear and warm. The Rainier Mountain Festival is in full swing this weekend. If you are in the area come join us.
Congratulations to today's teams!
The Four Day Summit Climb July 29 - 1 August, 2011 has reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The team was led by Leon Davis who reported sunny skies, light wind and cold temperatures on the mountain today. The team was beginning their descent from the crater rim at 7:00 a.m. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise this afternoon.
The Four Day Summit Climb July 12 - 15 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Casey Grom and their teams checked in from the crater rim at 7:40 a.m. PT. They reported clear and sunny conditions with a steady wind.
Congratulations to today's teams!
We are starting to talk about dinner reservations in South America. But realistically speaking, those would be for tomorrow night, since there is a good chance we will be flying back to Punta Arenas during prime dining hours tonight.
Yesterday was spent quietly sitting in the "Guide Tent" with the 25 Vinson climbers, chatting, reading, eating and passing time. The weather wasn't horrible, but neither was it any good for flying, with low cloud and poor contrast prevailing. Today is a different story, which actually defies the forecasts... It is sunny and calm and the ALE folk have "called the flight" Meaning that the Illyusion 76 is being put through its final preparations and it may be off deck and headed our way within the next two hours.
I'll let you know of our progress.
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Northside
Hi from Russia! The whole team and luggage has arrived in Moscow. We just finished a great dinner and are getting to bed so we can enjoy our city tour tomorrow.
Posted by: Raymond Holt, Annie Chapman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
100% Summit Success on Mt. Baker!
Our climbing team had originally set out to ascend Mt. Rainier, but due to unsafe route conditions above Ingraham Flats, they made the smart decision to pivot with us to Mt. Baker.
Led by RMI Guides Ray Holt and Annie Chapman, the team took on the Easton Glacier route—and it was absolutely worth it!
Every climber stood on the summit, rewarded with stunning views and the satisfaction of perseverance and adaptability. The team is now back at camp, resting, rehydrating, and preparing for tomorrow’s descent to the trailhead.
Huge congratulations to the entire team for their flexibility, determination, and summit success!
We unanimously agreed that the temperatures were a bit warmer than the night prior and we all slept much more warmly, although we did find out in the morning that the temps were hovering around -18F when we crawled out of the tents around 9am this morning. Despite the cold bite to the air, the skies had cleared overnight and we set about breaking down camp and preparing to move to Camp 1 (known as "Low Camp" on Vinson). We hit the trail midday and climbed back up the Branscomb Glacier, navigating the first crevasse field again with ease, crossing the long basin above, and reaching our cached gear by late afternoon. The landscape, under clear skies this time, were completely different and we were able to soak in the surroundings: the bulging seracs and icecliffs of the Branscomb to our left and the towering rock and ice faces of Vinson's main Massif directly in front of us.
After reaching our cached gear we transferred the loads from yesterday into the sleds we were dragging behind us and set off toward Low Camp. We made a long arcing turn from east to north facing around a second crevasse field and then set off across the upper stretches of the Branscomb, walking along the base of Vinson's towering walls stretching 3,000-4,000' above us. The glacier was an undulating plateau that felt like a false flat - the perspective lent itself to thinking we were traveling along flat ground but in reality we climbed another 800' over several miles. The constant backward tug of our sleds was a good reminder of why we were working so hard hauling our heavy loads.
By early evening, with the sun still high in the sky, we reached Low Camp and set about establishing camp. Whatever chills we felt from the occasional breeze was quickly chased away by the hard work of shoveling out a tent platform and a place to cook in the thick wind packed snow. We needed saws to hack through the dense snow and had to wield our avalanche shovels with care for fear of bending or snapping the blades. Despite the firm snow, within a few hours we were settled comfortably into camp and enjoying a warm meal. It's now half past midnight and the sun is still high above the horizon, traveling from west to east now. We are crawling into the tent eager for a good night's rest after the long climb with all of our gear but very happy to be up here and staring up at the more exciting climbing above us.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory and team
On The Map
Posted by: Linden Mallory, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Thick clouds rolled into the Alaska Range overnight and when we woke up shortly before 3am, we found ourselves in the midst of a thick fog bank. It was thick enough that we even needed our headlamps to get around camp, an uncommon occurrence in Alaska this time of year. The fog bank acted like a thick warm down comforter, keeping the temperatures hovering around freezing, even at the coldest part of the night. We caught several glimpses of breaks in the clouds above and decided to venture out of camp to see if we could find some colder temperatures and more supportable snow above the valley floor. We set out through the mist, following the track that we scouted yesterday evening, and navigating the crevasse field that guards the entrance to the side valley leading up to 747 Pass.
The scene was awe inspiring while we climbed the valley. As a flat light began to illuminate our surroundings, we passed the foot of huge rock faces that stretched vertically into the air above us until they disappeared into the clouds. At the head of the valley loomed the headwall and seracs that mark the top of the pass. The views would come and go with the clouds, occasionally spitting hail and almost rain on us. After climbing a little more than a 1,000' up that pass we were dismayed to find that the temperatures had not cooled and we were sinking to mid thigh in the soft isothermic snow when we climbed the steeper pitches. Around us running water ran down the cliff faces, telling us that even the snow slopes high above had not frozen overnight. With more clouds blowing in and spits of rain coming down, we knew that today wasn't our summit day as the conditions made for exceedingly slow progress and the warm temperatures and rain increased the chance for rockfall and snow sluffs above us while also weakening the snow bridges that allow us to cross the heavily-crevassed glacier.
We pulled our climbing skins from our skis and descended back down our route, making a few fun turns in the soft, punchy snow and returned to camp. We spent the rest of the morning catching up on the few missed hours of sleep from our early start, reading, and keeping a general light-hearted banter going in the tent.
By mid afternoon the clouds lifted a bit and we decided to stretch our legs with a little tour across to the east side of the Ruth Glacier before returning to camp for the evening.
We are hoping that the clouds will continue to lift and bring in some cold temperatures to provide a good freeze for the glacier. If we get a cold night and a good freeze of the snow surface, we will make another attempt on Mt. Dickey tomorrow morning. If the weather stays warm we'll pack up camp and move back up the glacier towards Mountain House to get some ski touring in on some of the more gentle slopes in that area.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory & Team
Posted by: Linden Mallory, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
A thin covering of clouds rolled into the Ruth Glacier last night just low enough to brush the summits of the surrounding peaks. The clouds acted as an insulating layer, preventing the previous day's heat from fully dissipating overnight and we awoke early to relatively mild temperatures. The warmer temps softened the blow of waking up early and breaking camp - not the most pleasant experience when the thermometer hovers in the single digits - and soon we had everything packed into our backpacks and sleds and were skiing down the Ruth Glacier as the first ray of sunlight reached us. We spent the day traveling downhill, dropping from Mountain House northwards into the center of the Ruth Amphitheater before veering to the east and making a large 180-degree turn until we were eventually headed south down the Ruth Glacier and into the heart of the Ruth Gorge. This early in the season the glacier is still covered in a thick layer of winter snow, smoothing over the crevasses and undulations in the glacier and among the travel very smooth and straightforward.
Soon we entered the Ruth Gorge proper, a "narrow" stretch of glacier (still almost a mile wide) that is reported to be close to 3,000' deep, and walled by massive rock walls on both sides, the highest being the East Face of Mt. Dickey which rises an impressive almost 5,000'+ above us, whose summit remained shrouded in clouds. We traveled down the Gorge, occasionally stopping in awe to admire the landscape around us, until we reached an altitude of about 4,600' at the entrance to a side valley that is framed by "747 Pass" - a gap in the rock walls purported to be large enough to fly its Boeing namesake through. Here, we established our camp, just as the temperatures warmed enough to begin softening the surface snow and slowing our progress across the glacier. We spent the remainder of the afternoon establishing our camp in the center of the flat glacier that runs through the Gorge and brushing up on various climbing skills and techniques. If the weather holds, we are in a good position to make a push through 747 Pass and climb the glaciated West Face of Mt. Dickey tomorrow morning before returning to our camp here in the Gorge.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory & Team
RMI Guide Mark Tucker checking in from Camp 3 Barranco camp on Kilimanjaro. Yet another beautiful day of hiking and climbing for the group, lucky, lucky, us. We are at about 12,800 feet now. We did get up to almost 15,000 feet today and broke a lot of people's altitude records. Everyone did just fine. We are staring up at the Barranco Wall which we will tackle in the morning. It's actually a very fun part of the climb, a little bit of scrambling. For tactical beat we are going to drag our feet a little bit in the morning. There are a few other teams up here so we will let them get a head start and hopefully have the wall pretty much to ourselves which will be great photos and just a bit more fun. It will be a little bit of a shorter day tomorrow getting to our next camp. Some of the folks on a six day climb will push all the way to high camp tomorrow. But we'll go ahead and split that into two days. It really helps out for the success ahead. So, its a beautiful night outside. I am staring up at the glaciers, what's left of them - they have been dwindling, but who knows that could change. I can't ask for a better group of folks, we are having a fun time and everyone is just doing really well. So fingers crossed, couple of more days of this and we will be heading for the summit. Can't wait.
Previous Page
Next Page
RMI Guide Mark Tucker checks in from Barranco Camp at 12,800 ft on Kilimanjaro,
Se tenir au chaud… d’accord?
Posted by: M. Homme on 11/29/2014 at 6:04 pm
Cool Stuff! (literally and figuratively)Jon, 65 F in Tuscaloosa today…
Roll Tide!
Posted by: Tom on 11/29/2014 at 9:57 am
View All Comments