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Posted by: Mike Walter, Solveig Waterfall, Ben Liken
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 13,600'
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We woke up early to a beautiful morning today: cloudless and calm, but very cold. After fueling up for the day with a good breakfast, we started up Motorcycle Hill in the shade, bundled in warm clothes. Our packs were loaded with supplies to cache up high. The weather couldn't have cooperated much better for us today. After the initial chill on Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill, the temperature was very comfortable on the Polo Fields and around Windy Corner to our cache sight at 13,600'.
We climbed and descended about 2,500 vertical feet today before arriving back at our camp at 11k. We had a big meal and plenty of fluids, and now we're all horizontal for the night. Our next step will be to move camp to 14k. We'll keep you abreast of our progress...
RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team
The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Dave Hahn and Pete Van Deventer reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier today. The groups were greeted with sunshine and light winds of 10 - 15 mph.
Congratulations to Today's Teams!
Hello, this is Mike Haugen checking in from 14,000' on Mt. McKinley.
After a great push to cache our gear up high yesterday, we took today as a rest day. Although we were in the clouds most of the day, the sun was peaking through just enough to heat up the inside of our tents via the greenhouse effect. Thus, our nap-puchinos were glorious. After our naps and some lunch, Elias and I taught the crew some rope tricks that will help us be efficient as our rope teams make our way back up through the fixed lines and the running belays (our protection on steep slopes) that lie on the upper mountain. Our plan is to hurry up and wait for the perfect weather that will allow us to move from 14,000' Camp to 17,000' Camp. RMI's Joe Horiskey promised us perfect weather tomorrow, so send him angry emails if it is snowing or windy.
We will check in again soon.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
On The Map
It sounds pretty romantic, and lots of people envy my job. And, I must admit, I'm pretty happy with what I do for a living, and count my blessings every day. But working as an expedition photographer is not always a piece of cake. This goes for me shooting stills, as well as Gerry Moffatt, Kent Harvey, and John Griber shooting our video footage. While I cannot speak exactly for them, I can give an idea of what my days on the hill are like.
Being a photographer on an expedition does not really put you into a special category. There are no chairlifts or trams waiting for us; we must climb the mountain just like anyone else, acclimating, moving up and down, and capturing images along the way.
Along with the standard equipment all of us - Ed, Peter, Melissa, Dave, Seth - carry on the hill, I also have my photo equipment. I've always been a Nikon shooter, and this is my 6th Everest expedition using Nikon gear. So in my pack is a Nikon D300 camera, chosen for its superior image quality complemented by reasonable size and weight. In addition to the D300 body, I have a handful of lenses: a Nikon 18-200mm, Nikon 50mm, Sigma 10-20mm, and a Nikon 80-200. This selection gives me a fantastic range while keeping the weight reasonable. I also bring along my Nikon SB-800 flash unit and an SC-28 remote cord for filling in faces and dark areas in this contrasty environment. Oh, and of course, extra batteries, cleaning supplies, a variety of filters, and a tripod.
My personal M.O. on all expeditions has always been to disrupt the flow of climbing as little as possible while shooting. Certainly there are times when the environment and risk enable me to set up shots and choreograph the scene. But, more often than not, my style is to catch what I can by moving ahead of the climbers and capturing them in real time, in real situations. (You can imagine trying to ask climbers in the Khumbu Icefall to stop for a few minutes under tons of tilting seracs while I compose a shot - not even nice to contemplate!) This style, while my preference, creates some challenges, as I am in a constant game of leapfrog, setting up a shot, shooting, repacking my gear, and shuffling ahead as fast as possible to get ahead of the climbers and find the next spot for a good image. Not easy, but it is an added challenge I strangely relish.
The other challenge with expedition photography is the need to be constantly thinking, looking around at the terrain with a creative angle, trying to find a new perspective on the environment at hand. While this terrain is so spectacular that pointing and shooting often works, the nut for me to crack is how to find a new perspective, how to tell a different story in a single frame and show what perhaps has not been shown before. This requires constant attention to the task at hand, for moments missed may never come again. But, again, this is a cerebral game which adds depth and enjoyment to the climbing at hand.
When looking at the end of the day, I must admit I long a bit for the days of film. Way back then, in the late 1990s, we'd shoot film during the day, pack it away after sunset, and the day was done- but, no longer. Digital, despite its great benefits, has caused quite a bit more work for us photographers. When the day is done, I now take my compact flash cards into our production tent, fire up my solid-state Asus laptop, download my images onto a hard drive, make a backup copy on another drive, and then edit the day's work. Select images are spotted for dust and blemishes, captioned, resized, saved to a thumb drive, and handed over to our field producer, Cherie Silvera, for transfer via satellite phone with the day's text and video dispatch.
It all makes for a long day, to say the least, but, I wouldn't change a thing about it. I love the honor of capturing the amazing people on our team and the stunning environment, and the chance to share those images and moments with a greater audience. It was, many years ago, images by Ansel Adams, Galen Rowell, Barry Bishop, and other greats of mountain photography that first inspired me to tread in the mountain realm. Their images shared with me a place I could scarcely imagine, bringing a new world to my doorstep in Topsfield, Massachusetts. It was through their lenses that a passion was discovered and ignited within me, and my one hope as I photograph our team and our climb is that I may share that same sense of wonder and enjoyment that hit me long ago.
Enjoy the images, and climb on, wherever your trail may lead...
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Just writing a quick note before we start cooking dinner. The whole crew is in excellent spirits, not to mention in great physical shape, and we plan on making our summit attempt on Pico de Orizaba sometime late tonight or early tomorrow morning. We had a great training hike today to a spot well above 15,000 ft where we cached some of the technical gear we will need higher up on the glacier. The weather is starting to look a little iffy but if the patterns we've been seeing for the last week or so, we'll probably be waking up to clear skies: stars and a nearly full moon!
Well, that's it from your team high in central Mexico. Wish us luck and keep your fingers crossed for good weather!
Billy, Fernando, John, Ryan, Bob, Pam, and Robin.
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita, and Joe Hoch climbed to Ingraham Flats, but were unable to go further due to high avalanche risk. The team enjoyed a beautiful sunrise, and will be back to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford this afternoon.
Congratulations Team!
Wow! That pic is stunning!
Bummer you weren’t able to summit, but good to be safe!
Cheers to everyone!
Posted by: Katie Hernandez on 6/7/2024 at 11:34 am
Beautiful Pic! Sorry the climb had to turn back but clearly Safety First !
Posted by: Doug Thompson on 6/7/2024 at 10:39 am
It was cold and windy today on our gear bump to 18,000' with most of the team climbing in all our insulating layers. The sunny skies kept us moving and everyone did great! The views from Camp 2 inspired the team as we breathed the thin air. We are back at Camp 1 now ready to devour some Mac and cheese.
RMI Guide Ben Liken
On The Map
Dave, I promise you a cheese cake when you come home! We miss you. Be safe!
Posted by: Nancy Hicks on 2/9/2017 at 8:39 am
Hello from Barafu Camp,
We had another gorgeous morning when we woke up. Since it was a fairly short hiking day we took our time packing up camp and had a nice leisurely breakfast. We walked out of camp at 9:00 and made very good use of the trail to continue working on our rest stepping, pacing and breathing so we will be ready for tomorrow. The group did great and we made it to camp in just over two hours.
We took full advantage of our afternoon by talking about all the details of the climb ahead as well as discussing what gear to bring and what gear can stay at camp.
Now we are getting ready for an early dinner so we can be in bed by 7:00. The alarm clock is set for o'dark thirty and the plan is to be walking out of camp at 1:00 am. Hopefully we will be calling in from the summit of Kilimanjaro around 8:00 am.
The entire team is strong and healthy and doing well. We all appreciate the comments that have been posted on the blog, thank you for sending the encouraging words.
Best regards,
RMI Guide Jeff Martin
On The Map
Almost there Daddy (Rob)!! I’m so excited for you!
Posted by: Samantha Golomb on 2/2/2014 at 5:55 am
Posted by: JJ Justman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
RMI Guide JJ Justman and his team spent today at Ngorongoro Crater viewing some spectacular animals on day two of their safari. Check out JJ's video below.
nice to see you arrived and are on your way. have a great climb. wishing you all great weather.
Dawn
Posted by: Dawn Pearson on 8/8/2013 at 3:18 pm
So glad the 3 Meffes are stateside- we all can’t wait to hear about your awesome adventure!
Susan
Posted by: Susan Clayton on 8/8/2013 at 9:13 am
Capitalizing on a break in the weather the high winds subsided just long enough to allow us to move up to 17,000 feet for our high camp on Denali. After moving in last night we hunkered down with some full bellies and awoke to a little bit higher winds than we were hoping for, but we're in good shape sitting tight up here at 17 just sort of waiting and watching the weather, so that's all from 17K camp. And I will be checking in soon. Alright. Bye.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Jake Beren checks in after the team's move to 17,000' Camp
On The Map
Jake, I was just thinking about your BIG day tomorrow and checked in to see if you were still up on the mountain… looks like you are holding strong up there. Sending you some sunshine and awesome weather tomorrow. Hopefully a summit and down for steak and cake soon :) Happy Birthday! hugs, C
Posted by: KC on 6/25/2011 at 9:10 pm
Jake! Happy Birthday!! Once again you’re on a mountain top at the time of your birthday—so no presents for you, my Beemish Boy. I hope your clients are aware that they lucked out, when they drew you as a guide. How does the the iPad respond to the cold? Stay warm!
Love,aged P’s
Posted by: Richard Beren on 6/25/2011 at 6:41 pm
Hi gang. My in-box is full (thanks to you). You know the old saying: good weather follows bad. It will definitely clear at some point. Once it stabilizes, the route should be in terrific condition. I don’t want to see you guys break my record of 33 days on the mountain and no summit (May, 1972). Keep thinking positive. Be safe and enjoy your time on Denali (some of you will be back to the rain in WA soon enough). Joe
Posted by: Joe on 6/29/2011 at 2:41 pm
Hey K, whole team in the heart room concentrating on your blog rather than the redo mitral valve we’re supposed to be doing. The pictures from the team summiting June 29 are awesome. Seems you guys are at 17,000 feet. Incredible. How you doin? Love and kisses from the girls in the heart room, and Chris. Miss you, Buddy. Hope all is well. You’re not missing anything here. Have fun. Be safe. The Heart Team and Kyle
Posted by: Kyle enslin on 6/29/2011 at 10:31 am
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