Most Popular Entries
Hi from High Camp on
Mt. Elbrus. The weather forecast is looking pretty good for a summit bid tonight! We'll be up around midnight, shooting for a 1:00 AM departure.
Today was pretty relaxing with a late breakfast followed by some avalanche transceiver training. Once that was complete we went for a short hike before lunch. After lunch we took a break and then prepped our gear for the summit push.
If everything goes as planned we should be on the summit between 6 and 7 AM our time. Hopefully I'll be calling from the top for my next check in.
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
On The Map
June 16, 2014 11:05pm PT
Well, the Rolling Stones hit the nail on the head with this one. We've sort of adopted it as our theme song of the day, as the weather continued to thwart upward movement for our team. Temperatures and wind in camp were more conducive to resting inside than hanging around outside, and the team spent most of the day relaxing in our posh, eating pancakes and sharing stories with the other climbers who stayed in camp.
While the forecast isn't the greatest we've seen, we're still hoping for a window of high pressure for a summit attempt this week. We are getting close to a go/no go date, but spirits remain high and the stoke for the experience is strong. Keep sending the positive vibes and we'll do our part if the mountain cooperates!! Cheers from a well-lived-in
14K camp,
RMI Guides
TJ,
Garrett,
Bryan and the No Troubles Crew
Hey, this is Solveig checking in for Billy, Mike, Tim and Drew from Mt. McKinley. Yesterday we packed up camp at 14,000’ and had a great move to our high camp at 17,300 feet. The first part of the move we enjoyed calm winds and warm sunshine. It was a lot of fun to be climbing in such great conditions. However, about two-thirds of the way up to high camp we were hit by 30 -45 mile per hour winds which persisted all the way into camp. There were a lot of teams camped at 17,000’ when we arrived but we found an area to build our camp and spent the next three hours digging ten platforms and building walls to protect our tents. One particularly strong gust knocked over our completed wall.
We began cooking dinner and settling in and the winds subsided. We enjoyed a calm evening inside the protection of our tents and surrounding sturdy walls.
Today we are eating and resting and enjoying light winds and good weather.
Tim wanted to wish his mom a “Happy Birthday”.
RMI Guide Solveig Garhart
We walked for seven hours today… of course we did take a leisurely lunch break in Phakding, so it was less. But it felt like a big day. We lost about 2,000 vertical feet in the first hour, coming down the Namche hill. That was significant, since it meant we were then working at low altitude (around 9,000 ft) which was easier than so much of what we’ve done in the last week. It was a cloudy day, but there was an amazing amount of helicopter traffic overhead. And there were plenty of trekkers, porters and pack animals on the trail. It is prime time in the Khumbu. Still, we had some fine peaceful moments gazing at waterfalls and flowers and children playing on small farms. We bounced across a bunch of cable bridges and finally we climbed uphill for the final 90 minutes to reach Lukla. We’ll spend the night and see if we get lucky with clear weather for flying in the morning.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
It’s day four of our Aconcagua expedition. Our first rest day for those at home following along. We all got a good sleep in and enjoyed an extended breakfast of eggs, pancakes, and lots of coffee this morning while discussing the itinerary of the next few days. Even though we call it a rest day, there is never a day on a mountaineering expedition when we are doing nothing. While the group enjoyed plenty of down time a good portion of the day was spent packing for our carry tomorrow, sorting group food, going on a short hike to stretch the legs and the lungs, and getting in our park-mandated doctor visit to make sure all climbers are adjusting to the new altitude appropriately. Spoiler alert! Everyone in the group passed their physical and the doctor gave us all the thumbs up to keep cruising up hill. Tomorrow will be the toughest day for the group so far as we shoulder packs and climb to Camp 1 at 16,400ft to cache some of our gear before descending back to basecamp to continue the acclimatization process. I have no doubt this determined group of climbers will perform their task without trouble. Everyone is feeling great and ready for more!
RMI Guide Nick Scott
RMI Guides Eric Frank & Robby Young and their teams of
Four Day Climbers reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They enjoyed some time in the crater on a beautiful morning and began their descent from the crater rim a little after 8 AM. The teams will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise. From there an RMI Shuttle will deliver them to Rainier BaseCamp. Their program will conclude with a celebration and cheers to their accomplishments over the last few days.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Groundhog day again. We woke to better weather but there was still enough weather in Talkeetna to keep the plane grounded. Some of us were in the tent sleeping when we got the word that K2 planes were inbound. The team rallied quickly and moved gear to the runway and by early afternoon we were back in town. Typical Alaska weather for us but a great introduction to the team. What a great group of people to share time with in the Alaska range. One of a kind collection of personalities and memories to carry with us forever. Thanks for following!
RMI Guides Leon Davis, Mike King and Jessie Poquerusse
We unanimously agreed that the temperatures were a bit warmer than the night prior and we all slept much more warmly, although we did find out in the morning that the temps were hovering around -18F when we crawled out of the tents around 9am this morning. Despite the cold bite to the air, the skies had cleared overnight and we set about breaking down camp and preparing to move to Camp 1 (known as "Low Camp" on
Vinson). We hit the trail midday and climbed back up the Branscomb Glacier, navigating the first crevasse field again with ease, crossing the long basin above, and reaching our cached gear by late afternoon. The landscape, under clear skies this time, were completely different and we were able to soak in the surroundings: the bulging seracs and icecliffs of the Branscomb to our left and the towering rock and ice faces of Vinson's main Massif directly in front of us.
After reaching our cached gear we transferred the loads from yesterday into the sleds we were dragging behind us and set off toward Low Camp. We made a long arcing turn from east to north facing around a second crevasse field and then set off across the upper stretches of the Branscomb, walking along the base of
Vinson's towering walls stretching 3,000-4,000' above us. The glacier was an undulating plateau that felt like a false flat - the perspective lent itself to thinking we were traveling along flat ground but in reality we climbed another 800' over several miles. The constant backward tug of our sleds was a good reminder of why we were working so hard hauling our heavy loads.
By early evening, with the sun still high in the sky, we reached Low Camp and set about establishing camp. Whatever chills we felt from the occasional breeze was quickly chased away by the hard work of shoveling out a tent platform and a place to cook in the thick wind packed snow. We needed saws to hack through the dense snow and had to wield our avalanche shovels with care for fear of bending or snapping the blades. Despite the firm snow, within a few hours we were settled comfortably into camp and enjoying a warm meal. It's now half past midnight and the sun is still high above the horizon, traveling from west to east now. We are crawling into the tent eager for a good night's rest after the long climb with all of our gear but very happy to be up here and staring up at the more exciting climbing above us.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory and team
On The Map
In the North Cascades, RMI Guide
Lindsay Fixmer and team reached the summit of
Forbidden Peak via the West Ridge. Lindsay reported perfect weather during their summit bid and good route conditions.
Way to Climb!
June 6, 2014 - 11:30 pm PT
70 years ago there was a landing much different than ours in a far away land. We are grateful for those past sacrifices.
Our landing was quite pleasant, leaving Talkeetna early and spending the morning packing up to head down the the Main Fork of the Kahiltna and make that crucial right turn towards
Denali. The team did well and we made camp at the base of Ski Hill under clearing skies, alpenglow of the high mountains and a just past halt moon. Nice way to start it off.
After setting up shop, the crew is hunkered down for some well earned rest and if the weather smiles on us again, we'll go higher tomorrow.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
Previous Page
Next Page
Good luck Seth. Hope you and the boys from Barcelona get good enough conditions for a shot at the top.
Posted by: Art Muir on 6/29/2016 at 12:04 pm
View All Comments