Sunday, July 15, 2018 - 12:56 PM PT
This afternoon we received a dispatch from RMI Guide Zeb Blais on Forbidden Peak in Washington State's Cascade Pass. The team reported beautiful weather and a successful climb. They will spend some time on top before beginning their descent of the technical West Ridge.
Congratulations climbers!
Update January 5th at 3:30 pm PT
This is the day that all the hard work, both at home and on the mountain, are for and it is always the hardest day of the trip. Thankfully, we made it to the summit and back to camp safely and in great style. With an early dinner in our bellies we will all sleep well tonight.
Thank you for all your thoughts and prayers for our safety.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes[Call from the summit audio transcription]
Hello, this is Walter from the summit of Aconcagua with our team. It's a beautiful day up here, blue skies, a little breezy- probably about 20 (mph) on the top. We did go through some pretty heavy wind down below, maybe constant 40 to 50 in some of the little saddles, but we made it! We're happy and it's sunshiny. Everybody's tired, so we're looking forward to the downhill. We'll call or send a dispatch out when we get there so you know that we arrived safely. Over and out from Aconcagua.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes calls from the Aconcagua summit
June 16, 2014 - 8:03 pm PT
We arrived at our 11,000' camp in the late afternoon today. Our plan was to leave early this morning to head up here, but the weather was pretty terrible. White out conditions and strong winds kept us in the tent all morning. Just after noon, the weather started to get a bit better and we got word that the conditions were better higher up. We heard a couple of planes that take people on scenic tours overhead, so our suspicions of clear skies above were confirmed. We packed up our camp in record time and headed uphill. The conditions grew steadily better the higher we went and the traveling was actually pleasant.
We arrived in camp way earlier than we predicted as our team has been very steady and strong as we travel up the mountain. We built a storm fortified camp and are just finishing up a well earned meal.
Our plan for tomorrow is to do a back carry. This means that we will go back down to dig up our 10,000' cache and bring those supplies up to our new camp. We will hopefully have the weather to complete this task early so that we can rest up for our days at higher altitudes.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and RMI Team "The Ocho"
Hello again from the 11k camp on Denali!
We decided to take another day to rest and acclimate to the altitude. We spent most of the day lounging around, reading, listening music, napping, and telling lies, all the while getting stronger for our forays up higher.
The weather was cloudy, cooler, and windier today, and a trace of snow fell overnight. But as I lie in my sleeping bag typing this dispatch, a cloudless sky sits above us. We're hoping for good weather tomorrow so we can carry supplies up to around 13,600'. We'll stay in touch.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & team
We had a really great week! Lots of super successful training!
I wish we could have gone to the summit on the first day because it was such a spectacular day to be in the mountains, beautiful, sunny and not a breath of wind! We couldn’t, though, because we hadn’t completed our basic mountaineering training yet, and then the weather just closed the window.
The winds seemed to have hammered the slopes pretty hard prior to our arrival as everything was sporting a windslab. Nothing had released naturally, but we saw several releases propagated by icefall.
We really focused on our training and spent a lot of time outside. Avalanche hazard awareness, beacon searches, and the decision-making process of travel in avy terrain dominated much of the week. We also spent quite a bit of time on camp craft – building bomber snowcaves and setting up expedition-style camps. Of course, rope and anchor work, fixed line travel, crevasse rescue systems and other Denali-prep skills kept us busy as well.
A great week!
Hey!! We got flown off Denali this afternoon. It was our 21st day on the mountain and it began with low cloud and unflyable conditions. We cooked up a casual breakfast on the glacier and waited patiently, checking in hourly with K2 Aviation via sat-phone. By mid-afternoon, the sun was trying to peak through and our visibility had improved a great deal. K2 was having some difficulty with thick cloud blocking the approaches on their side of the mountain, but they kept on trying to find holes. At three PM their perseverance paid off, in came the airplanes and out we went. The gang is getting together one last time in just a few minutes. Time for a triumphant feast at the West Rib and a few toasts to a good mountain, good luck and good friends.
Good weather today and perfect route conditions. We carried a load of food, fuel and gear to "low camp" and then returned -as planned- to VBC. Five and a half hours up, about thirty minutes to cache the gear and bask in the high altitude sun and then two and a half hours down. All did well, all are cheerful... More tomorrow.
It was an early morning today for our carry to 13,500' to cache gear. We were the first to leave 11,000' Camp as we headed up Motorcycle Hill. It's not a casual start as it's quite steep and contains some cracks to step over. Once onto Motorcycle Hill, we preceded to go up Squirrel Hill and then walked across some flatter terrain called the Polo Fields. At the other end of the Polo Fields is Windy Corner and that leads us to our cache. It was a fantastic day with good weather and beautiful views. Words and pictures never do it justice. Once we dug our hole and offloaded our gear it was back to camp. It was a long day and deserves a rest before we break down camp and move to 14,000' Camp. Weather seems to be holding with chances of snow but for us some rest will set us up for success later on. Fingers crossed for good weather Thursday on our move. For now we are going to enjoy some down time in our tents and plenty of opportunity for snack consumption.
Just like that… we woke up in Talkeetna and the clouds were gone. We scrambled on over to the airstrip at 8 AM and started putting on the big mountain boots. By a little after 9, we were up in the air in two glorious DeHaviland Otters… prop driven ski planes built in the 1950’s. The Alaska Range was visible in full from the moment we cleared the Talkeetna tree tops. Denali was spectacular and seemed bigger and steeper than in previous years. We flew straight at the peak and then moved a little West as we crossed into the mountains. Our K2 Aviation pilots eased the planes down on to the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier at 7100 ft and we slid to a stop at basecamp. A few minutes of shuffling and shuttling loads in mushy snow ensued. We built our camp and got settled in before a day of light training and a review of glacier travel techniques. As the day proceeded, we went from hot sunshine to cool overcast, but the clouds didn’t rob us of the magnificent views of impossibly big and steep mountainsides. We watched a handful of ginormous avalanches drop off various surrounding mountains. We capped the day with a burrito dinner and an early bedtime. Our hope would be to get up in the night and climb in the cool part of the early morning tomorrow.
Saturday, July 20, 2018 - 1:50PM PTRMI Guide Zeb Blais checked in from the Fisher Chimney's route of Mt. Shuksan today. The team had just made it back to high camp after a summit day with 100% success! They reported beautiful conditions and good climbing. They will spend tonight at high camp and descend back to the trail-head tomorrow.
Congratulations Climbers!
Hi Sue and team;
Keep up the good work. Following you daily!!!
Safe and fun travel!
Patty
Posted by: patty on 1/8/2015 at 9:41 am
Way to go Colin! That is unbelievable! I can’t wait to hear all about your adventure!
Posted by: Morgan Moore on 1/6/2015 at 1:46 pm
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