The final Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir of the 2015 climbing season is wrapping up their final day on Mt. Rainier. Yesterday, the Seminar led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Billy Nugent made a summit attempt. The teams reached 13,300' before increasing winds and deteriorating weather conditions prompted their descent. Today the teams are descending from Camp Muir to wrap up their week of climbing and training. We look forward to welcoming all of the climbers at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford this afternoon.
It was a cold night here at Low Camp last night. Frost formed on the edges of our sleeping bags from our breaths and we woke up to rings of frost crystals around us. Once the sun poked over the ridge line things began to warm up and before long we were moving about camp without too much chill. The plan was to carry a small load of food and fuel to high camp to prepare for our summit bids. Since our loads were manageable and we are nursing what rest we can at lower altitudes, we worked in tandem with a group from ANI and Penn and I made the carry to high camp while Jon traversed the glacier to a col on the far side of the valley.
We set off in the early afternoon with (relatively) warm temps and no wind. We skinned up the base of the fixed lines that ascend a broad face to a ridge line that leads to the upper portions of the Vinson Massif. Transitioning at the base of the fixed lines, we put our skis on our backs and strapped crampons on and began climbing. We spent the next several hours climbing the ~3,000' face, watching the glacier shrink away below us and the mountain tops above loom larger as they drew nearer. As we neared the top of the fixed lines a low but sharp wind kicked up and the temperatures instantly plummeted. We bundled up and climbed the final hour or so into high camp doing our best to conceal any bit of skin from the biting winds. The winds died as we reached high camp and we were able to warm up a bit as we stowed our gear in preparation for our move up there. It was a spectacular evening, the glaciers below us flowed out into the low hanging clouds below while to both sides of us the rugged ridge lines of the Massif reared up from below. Above us a half full moon hung above the summit of Mt. Shinn, Vinson's neighbor, and looked so close that is seemed like only a quick detour would get us to it and back again.
With our packs emptied we strapped on our skis and started back down. The skiing was slow and conservative right out of high camp as we picked our way through the wind affected snow, finding a line through the tall curls of snow carved out by the Antarctic gusts. The snow was firm and smooth along the top ridge line of the fixed lines and we chose to belay ourselves down that to keep ourselves safe. Once onto the face the sun had softened the surface and we were able to link up great turns for several thousand feet all the way down to the Branscomb Glacier below.
We returned to camp by late evening and quickly set about cooking dinner and sharing our observations and insights about the route above with Jon. With our gear in place, we're hoping for a decent forecast tomorrow morning to make our move to high camp and shoot for the summit in the following days. We're back in the tent at Low Camp enjoying the warm midnight sun (as ironic as that sounds) and burrowing into our sleeping bags in preparation for another chilly night down here.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory & team
PS: Roll tide!
Great work, guys. So amazing to get a phone call from Camp 1 last night! Tell us more about the temps (highs and lows) and keep it up. Love to all from Aspen
June 22, 2014 - 2:46 am PT
What a great day in the mountains yesterday! I'd reckon we had one of the nicest summit opportunities of the season and it was a real treat to be in position to make the most of it. We topped out on Denali with spectacular views in all directions and made it back to camp with as close to a solstice as you can get. The sun was still in the sky for an amazing sunset as we pulled into camp after a job well and safely done. Nice work everyone!
This morning weather rolled in from many directions and we chose to stall a bit before heading down the Buttress. The blowing snow let up a little in the afternoon and we made the most if it, getting down to 14K Camp and having dinner before some shut eye. Tomorrow we will keep the momentum rolling downhill if the weather allows and get just a little closer to coming home.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
June 19, 2014 - 8:43 pm PT
Hello, this is Leon, Katie and Jake up at 17K Camp. We moved today up the Buttress. We dealt with a little wind and a little bit of snow, but the team did super well. We're all buttoned up tight hoping to go for it tomorrow if the weather allows. That's all from 17K, we will be checking in tomorrow.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Jake Beren calling in from Mt. McKinley's 17K Camp.
Sunday, June 1, 2014 10:42 pm PT
We went to bed last night with clear blue skies fueling hopes for a good chance of flying onto the Kahiltna glacier today. When we woke this morning, the clouds dampened our hopes, and we slowly made our way to breakfast. After another hearty round of Roadhouse delights, we made our way to the hangar and settled in for a morning of discussion.
Within 2 hours, we had finished chatting and were dispersing around Talkeetna for rest and lunch. Some of us were still at the hangar when the K2 Aviation staff came out and started packing up our kit - it was on! We called the team in and got our clothes changed, boots on, and stood anxiously waiting for the green light to load and go.
Soon, we were in the Otter plane and flying towards the heart of the Alaska range. We landed amid the giants of snow and rock that characterize this special range, high-fived with RMI Guide Mike Walter and his crew and waved them goodbye as they headed back to the luxuries we've left behind. The team had a good early dinner and are now in bed, resting for the work to come. Stay with us as we climb towards our goal!
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, and Bryan Hendrick
Greetings from Barranco Camp.
We are enjoying great weather and everyone did well last night. We had a nice hike today and the team is doing great. From our camp we have beautiful views of the summit and the Barranco Wall. We gathered in the dining tent for our afternoon snack of tea, fresh popped popcorn and hot peanuts. This is the life!
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Shuksan Team has spent the last week in the North Cascades with one day spent on Mt. Erie learning basic rock climbing. And the remainder of the week on Mt. Shuksan to complete alpine mountaineering skills training. These techniques include anchor placements, various self and team crevasse rescue techniques, steep technical ice climbing, belays, rappelling, knots, route finding and fixed rope travel. The team then attempted the summit of Mt. Shuksan, but were forced to turn at the base of the summit pyramid due to poor rainy weather. The team is breaking camp and will be hiking to the trail head this afternoon.
Congratulations to the Team on a great week of climbing!
Incredible experience! We had a great team and fantastic leadership from the guides. I learned so much of the basic mountaineering skills needed for future climbs. Thank you RMI for an amazing trip!
Posted by: Beechard McConnell on 9/14/2019 at 12:01 pm
RMI Guides Brent Okita & Chase Nelson led their Five Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Brent reported a beautiful day on the mountain with clear skies and a light breeze. The team began their descent from the crater rim shortly before 7 AM PT. The team will return to Camp Muir for a brief break and to repack before continuing down to Paradise and concluding their program later this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Sunday June 14th 8:50 pm PT
Today we wished our dear friends "Bon voyage" as the other RMI teams moved up on the West Rib and Buttress. Good luck everyone!
As for our esteemed crew, we spent the midday training to be as agile as the mighty wolverine when we tackle the fixed lines. It was great to see everyone both excel at the training course and take the time to enjoy the absurdly beautiful views of Hunter, Foraker and the Kahiltna Glacier. It was a stunning day up here.
Tomorrow we hope to carry goods higher up to prepare for moving when the weather allows. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Jake, you’re killin’ me! It’s been over 48 hours since your last post. What’s happening? How’s the weather? Is everybody OK? Did you guys summit already?
Posted by: Norm Vork on 6/16/2015 at 9:58 pm
Hi,
I hope you’re having a good time AJ.Good work till now,keep up the spirit.Take care see you soon at sea level. :)
Hey everybody. This is Casey Grom checking in from the Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak Climb. Wanted to let you know we are all down, safe and sound. Two of us were able to reach the summit yesterday. Tried to give a call last night, but could not get reception in this little valley that we are in. As well as there is still no cell service or wifi up here. Apparently they have been having technical difficulties down valley. But everyone's doing great after our climb, which was a cold one, we descended back down to Chukung and spent the night in a tea house and everyone is feeling fantastic this morning. Beautiful day again here in the Khumbu. Our plan is to hike down to Pangboche today. All of the trekkers should be catching their flights today from Kathmandu and headed home. We certainly miss those guys and I'm sure you guys back home do too. They should be there very soon. The team is great here and looking forward to getting down to some thicker air and before too long, Kathmandu. So that's all for now. We'll check in again hopefully with some pictures when we get into some service or wifi. Thanks you guys. Good bye.
RMI Guide Casey Grom
RMI Guide Casey Grom calls in after Island Peak Climb.
.jpg)
.jpg)
Sorry you did not make it to the Summit. We hope the experience was still worth the challenge!
Good job to all the climbers!
Posted by: Beth n Tyler on 9/26/2015 at 7:23 pm
An amazing feat, inspiring and beautiful. Congratulations on your ambitious drive!
Posted by: E J FIsher on 9/26/2015 at 8:37 am
View All Comments