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RMI Guide
Steve Gately checked in from camp after a successful summit and descent of
Mt. Shuksan's Fisher Chimneys route. Steve reported a great route and an even better team. The team will stay overnight in camp and begin their descent back to the land of good food and cold drinks tomorrow.
Congratulations to the Fisher Chimneys crew!
Good evening again from Yanapacha moraine camp. We're turning into our sleeping bags after an incredibly successful day. We turned our acclimatization day into a summit; weather was good, and spirits were high, so after our training session on the glacier, we decided to put things into practice right away.
Yanapacha provided a short but steep glacier that definitely challenged the team this early into the stages of acclimatization, but now that it's under our belt, and with another night here, at its high camp, we're sure to get the most out of this rotation. Every one did an outstanding job, and the views from the summit are the new favorite for this guide. We'll descend tomorrow to base camp to the food of our cook and the rest that the thicker air will deliver. Stay tuned for more!
Elías and team
We got an early start to our summit day. The first section is a steep scree slope, a big bite to chew when you wake up at midnight. As we gained the ridge we were surprised by the amount of snow, making for efficient climbing. The weather was warm for 15,000’+ and light winds allowed us to wear a few layers and stay comfortable while winding up and down the five false summits of Ixtaccihuatl.
With the city lights glowing in each direction and shooting stars across the horizon the Team kept plugging away until we reached the summit.
So many climbs ascend with the sunrise to thier backs. The unplanned benefit to summiting in the dark was that we descended into the rising sun with stellar views of Orizaba poking through the clouds. Alpineglow on the snow flanked sides of Ixta was a nice reward.
We are back down and headed to Puebla for a day of rest, culture and tacos al pastor. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir reached the crater rim at 7:30 am.
RMI Guide Mike King reported no wind, a great route and a beautiful morning! With such amazing weather, the team stayed on the summit until 9:00 am and will check in once they are back to Camp Muir. They will stay one more night at Camp Muir and descend from the mountain tomorrow.
May 21, 2014 - 12:28am PT
After yesterday's blustery winds, snow, and ground blizzards, we woke up to silence. No shaking tents, no rumble from the ridge above, just a clear blue sky. Excited to move, we were the first team out of camp, cramponing up perfect styrofoam snow on Motorcycle and Squirrel Hill, then breaking trail through 5 or 6 inches of fluff on the Polo Field. The sun grew strong and bouncing off the fresh white snow, we were soon stripping layers. We cached 10 days worth of food and several gallons of fuel at
13,5k that we'll retrieve in a couple days after we move to 14 camp. It was a perfect day in the Alaska range, and everyone was excited to keep pushing forward. We were back in camp with several hours of sunshine left to dry sleeping bags and clothes. Hopefully tomorrow we 'll be packing up camp and making our way to 14.
We'll let you know how it goes.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Josh Maggard, Robby Young & Team
We spent last night here at 16,000', and today we are resting and getting used to the rare air up here. We will head out to the glacier soon for a little training-review of cramponing, ice axe arrest, and other climbing techniques. We will get and alpine start and head out for the summit some time around 1:00 am tomorrow morning. I will be in touch when we return!
Hi, this is Linden checking in with the Island Peak Team from High Camp on Island Peak.
We packed up camp this morning and climbed to just shy of 18,000', to our High Camp here on Island Peak. We are camped about 1,500' feet below the glacier and will have some more moderate rock scrambling to get up to the approach to the climb.
We went up this afternoon to get the route fixed in. Everything looks good and we are planning to leave tomorrow morning about 3 a.m. for our summit bid. Our plan is to climb to the summit of Island Peak and then descend to High Camp and Base Camp and head back to Chukung.
We will give a call tomorrow night from Chukung hopefully with good news. We had a little bit of wind today so keep your fingers crossed that it will hold off until we are back at High Camp. The team is doing well and everyone is excited for the climb. We are about to head off to bed and we'll check in again tomorrow.
Our team arrived at Everest Basecamp today around 1 p.m. They left Lobuche this morning on the last leg of their trek. The tents were set up and ready for their arrival. The team spent the afternoon getting moved into their tents, their homes for the next several weeks.
After organizing their gear and getting their barrings around Basecamp, we enjoyed a nice team dinner and everyone has headed to their tents for the first night in their new "home away from home".
Buenos dias from Ecuador.
Yesterday we traveled into Cotopaxi National Park; en route to the climbers' hut we were lucky enough to see six Andean Condors! They were very close to the road and were defintely an impressive sight, with wingspans of more than 6 feet.
Upon arrival at the end of the road, we shouldered our packs and hike 45 minutes to the climbers' hut on Cotopaxi. The rest of the day was spent resting, eating, drinking, playing cards, and telling stories ...the time spent here, at nearly 16,000' will help us get used to the (even)thinner air that awaits above.
This morning we are getting ready to head out to the glacier, in order to stretch our legs and review ice axe and crampon skills. The weather is very nice and we're looking forward to our summit attempt tonight. We will likely leave the hut around 1:00 am, and hopfully we'll be on top at 6 ot 7. We'll be in touch, and I'll send pictures when we have access to the internet in a couple of days.
Hasta luego
Hello again everyone.
Yesterday the team made an executive decision and took advantage of the helicopters flying gear into base camp and hopped a ride from Gorak Shep to Namche. This short but scenic ride provided a spectacular view of the route and surrounding mountains as well as saved our legs from 20+ miles of hard hiking.
You would not believe how amazing 11,000 ft could feel after spending eight days above. But wow, it was delightful and the warmth was easily welcomed. We stayed the night and once again awoke to beautiful clear skies in Namche.
So today we finished the trek out to Lukla, where we started this journey after a nine hour hike. It was surreal to descend into the trees and see all of the flowers and rhododendrons that seemed to have come to life in just two weeks.
Everyone is doing great and refreshed after all the thick and humid air, and the super hot showers didn’t hurt either. We wrapped up the evening with dinner and handed out our tips to our amazing porters, and guides who worked incredibly hard to help us on this adventure. Without them it would be nearly impossible.
We are hoping for good weather tomorrow morning so we can catch our heli’s back to Kathmandu.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the BC crew!
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If this summit of Shuksan happened on July 22, 2019 between 9am and 10am, I have photos of 3 on the top. I would like to share them. Quite amazing shots considering how far away I was. I was on the roadway leading to Artist Point. The Big Glass gets the results!
Posted by: Brit Reese on 7/28/2019 at 6:06 pm
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