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Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 20,310'
Summit Day Recap - Monday, May 30, 2022
Things were clear and calm this morning and it looked the perfect day to go for the summit. We fired stoves early, ate breakfast as the sun rose on camp, and packed our bags. We left for the Autobahn, a long ascending traverse from 17,000' Camp to Denali pass at 18,000'. To get there, we walked back into the morning shade which kept things chilly, but overall really pleasant. From Denali Pass, we climbed past Zebra rocks, still warm and pleasant and in the sun now. As we rounded the Arch Deacons Tower, the wind caught us. Probably 15-20 mph, but biting. We covered our faces and continued on. We were able to get a bit of respite from it on the Football Field, and up Pig Hill. The summit ridge had plumes streaming over it and it was touch and go whether we would be able to traverse the last piece of terrain. We tried and the initial piece was windy, but we were able to move through it and as we crossed over the ridge we got some protection. We summitted at 5:15pm, tagged the top and took a couple hasty photos, before heading back down.
Tomorrow we will pack camp and start moving towards the air strip. We'll stop to sleep for a few hours at 11,000' or the base of Ski Hill and then be in Base camp to hopefully catch rides back to civilization the following morning.
RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team
Posted by: Casey Grom, Hannah Smith
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek
Elevation: 13,950'
We left BC today after a very comfortable and enjoyable stay.The team has enjoyed the trek through the Khumbu, but without a doubt, our BC set up had the nicest dining room, cleanest bathroom, and most enjoyable shower we've experienced.
The team enjoyed a few last views of the glacier and surrounding mountains as we retraced our way back down valley, pausing occasionally to allow the Yak trains to pass with their important cargo that help the expeditions succeed.
We hiked for seven hours today and descended more than 3000’ back to Pheriche. Needless to say, the team is feeling good and enjoying the thicker air.
RMI Guides Casey, Hannah and Crew
We made the all important break from basecamp today. The day began sunny and calm and we were feeling good, so the decision was easy. We began stirring at 9 AM and made it a leisurely morning of packing and sorting. Our rope team of three pulled out of Vinson Base Camp just after 12:30 PM. At first, the sun was strong and we stripped a few layers so as not to sweat, but as we neared yesterday’s high point, some clouds intervened to make it a little cooler again, but not desperately so. Our faces weren’t freezing but we couldn’t lounge around at rest breaks. We took on the sleds full of supplies that we’d stashed yesterday and made the tricky pull up and around the Branscomb Glacier’s big 90 degree corner and made it under the two great ice streams pouring 2,000 meters down Vinson’s West Face. Walking conditions weren’t the easiest, the surface was alternatively rough or super smooth and firm. We put on crampons to gain better purchase, which helped but which isn’t exactly the normal way of things below Low Camp. We made it in to 9,300' Low Camp just after 7 PM and set to work building platforms for the tents, setting up and anchoring tents, and getting moved into them. That and digging a kitchen and dining area in the super hard packed snow/ice took a good chunk of the evening. The sun finally pulled out of the clouds to make our 10 pm dinner a bit more pleasant. This camp gets direct sunshine until 2 or 3 in the morning, making the tents comfy in the evening, but then it gets a seriously cold shadow until 11 AM, making mornings cold and slow. But since we’re in the comfy phase now, we won’t worry about tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checks in from the South Col - getting ready for summit bid.
On The Map
Posted by: Casey Grom, Ben Luedtke, Mike Bennett, Will Nash, Leif Bergstrom, Evan Redman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb with RMI Guides Casey Grom and Ben Luedtke were on top of Mt. Rainier at 6:30 am. It was windy morning, but a good 6 hour and 15-minute climb of the Disappointment Cleaver route to reach the 14,410’ summit. The team is on the descent and in route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations team!
Congratulations everyone! It looks absolutely gorgeous up there. Can’t wait til I get the details from Joseph Rodriguez “Joey”
Again congratulations.
Posted by: Lisa on 7/1/2023 at 7:01 pm
We did it!!!
All team members are safely back to high camp after standing on the “Roof of Africa”.
The team did a great job climbing and stayed positive, even though it was tough at times. It was slightly chilly, and the route was busier than we would have liked. However, our early departure saved us from the more than 100+ climbers all stuffed together. We even had the summit to ourselves for a little while!
We spent about 30 minutes on the summit celebrating, taking photos and even made a few phone calls to loved ones back home.
We are headed down the mountain to our final camp in the thick warm air at 10,000’ where we’ll have dinner then head off to bed for some well-deserved sleep.
Casey and a happy Kili team!
Way to Live your dreams!! We are so proud of you Cory and Team!!
Love Auntie Jugee
Posted by: Julie Anne Hoegger on 9/18/2022 at 11:45 am
You did it! Congrats! See you tomorrow. Love all of us.
Posted by: Tabetha Kallsen on 9/18/2022 at 9:10 am
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Ben Ammon reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. It was a cool morning until the sun came up. Ben reported a cloudless sky with very light winds. The team is in route back to Camp Muir and will return to Paradise in the early afternoon.
Congratulations Team!
Congratulations to Andrea and Matthew and the whole team!
Posted by: John and Kate on 8/7/2022 at 2:13 pm
Hope you are having a great adventure Kassandra and Chris!! Can’t wait to hear about it!!
Posted by: Lisa Tapia on 8/7/2022 at 7:20 am
Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Elevation: 18,491'
We met yet another stray dog friend today- oh wait, that’s not what this blog about! We are incredibly happy and proud to say that every single team member stood on top of North America’s 3rd highest peak, Pico de Orizaba, today! What a day it was too! We awoke for our alpine start to find that the sky was clear, the wind light, and the temperatures still warm from the previous day. The route takes us up an old aqueduct, then up a rocky slope for a couple of hours until you reach a feature called the labyrinth, aptly named. That is when the weather started to turn from warm and windless to bitter and howling. Up we went, navigating the labyrinth with all its ice, mud, and rock and to the base of the of the Jamapa Glacier. A team member described the glacier as “walking up a descending escalator”, never ending and relentless. On we pushed, with perseverance stretched to its limit we crested the caldera ridge and on to the true summit where we met back up with our 2 other rope teams and embraced.
We are back down now, safe and sound, about to jump in our showers and wash up before dinner, our last one as a team. Seems surreal for it to be over so soon, but we look forward to seeing everyone in the mountains again. This is the Mexico climbing team signing off.
Except there is the picture of our dog friend walking us down to Base.
RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli, Abby Westling and Team
Congratulations, Team! What an incredible trip! So very proud. The smiles on the summit say everything… AND BONUS DOGS?!? Amazing.
Posted by: Raeanna Anglen on 2/20/2022 at 6:35 am
Posted by: Win Whittaker, Mike Uchal
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
See you at Paradise with Rainier! Hugs to all!
Posted by: Candace Weisser on 7/18/2019 at 9:32 am
Sending prayers for safe climb and return to base camp.
Posted by: Marilee Adams on 7/18/2019 at 8:08 am
RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in from Advance Base Camp on Shishapangma.
Hey Jake, congrats to you and Elias on your summit of Shishapangma without o2 and sherpas - a bit late but I just read about it.
Thanks again for the great trip up Rainier this past July (ALA climb)!
Posted by: Lance on 12/7/2011 at 5:00 pm
Hey Jake, good to hear you’re all safely down. Climbing in the Himalaya must be incredible. As you told our group on Rainier last year:“The mountain will always be there”. Sounds like everyone used good judgement.
Learned a lot from you and Billy during Rainier expedition skills trip last September and trained differently for second attempt. Made it to the top this past August with Paul, Maile, and Cody as guides. Thanks for what you contributed to my mountaineering education. Be well and I’ll hopefully be climbing with you in South America or Mexico next winter.
Best regards,
Tom Falvo
Posted by: Tom Falvo on 10/19/2011 at 5:40 pm
Congrats to all !!
Carl, maybe Aconcagua next?
Posted by: Ron Jackson on 6/2/2022 at 3:30 pm
Congratulations to Matt and the rest of the team!
Posted by: Tucker M on 6/1/2022 at 7:00 am
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