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Mt. Rainier: Paradise Seminar Reaches the Summit

RMI Guide Grayson Swingle topped off the Paradise Seminar week- literally.  They are on the Mt. Rainier summit right now!  The team spent the week on the flanks of Mt. Rainier learning valuable mountaineering skills. Yesterday they moved to Camp Muir where they started their summit bid early this morning.  We look forward to congratulating them this afternoon at Rainier Basecamp.

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Vinson Massif: Departure for Antarctica

Hello from Punta Arenas, We had the call this morning that we were on standby for our flight. Union Glacier was cloudy, but the report was that the weather was starting to improve and they would re-evaluate at 12:30 pm. We all crossed our fingers that the team could get going towards Vinson. The second call came in right at 12:30 and we were told that the bus is coming to pick us up at the hotel at 1:25 pm. The flight is a go! There were several other groups to pick up on the way to the airport, but the plane was loaded and ready for passengers. After an abbreviated security check, the bus pulled up right next to the plane and 15 minutes later everybody was on board and ready to go. It's about 4 1/4 hour flight down to Union Glacier . They carry enough fuel so that if they get down there and are unable to land, they can turn around and head back to Punta Arenas. Hopefully not the case for this flight. Once they land on the glacier, they will meet up with Dave Hahn, and if the weather is decent, the plan is for a quick turn around at Union Glacier, switching planes, and heading directly to Vinson Basecamp. The next dispatch will be from Dave and the crew on the ice. RMI Guide Jeff Martin
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Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Set To Fly

Seven in the morning and we are out at the airport in Punta Arenas, through security and ready to fly to the Ice. 

Lots of excited and oddly dressed people.  There will be eighty people on the flight.  Some climbers for Vinson, some skiers for the South Pole, some Emperor Penguin lovers and some eclipse watchers. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Flight of the Climbers

My little team began to combine in Kathmandu yesterday afternoon. Jeff Martin met my flight into hot and dusty K-Du at around one o'clock. As my boss at RMI, Jeff has already been over here for nearly a week, chasing down logistical details and getting all the arrangements arranged. My climbers, Bill and Sara McGahan, beat me into town by about an hour, having flown East out of Atlanta, while I circled West from Taos. Long, long flights no matter how you slice it.... a passel of time zones and bad airplane food. I had time for a quick shower back at the hotel before Jeff and I taxied our way over to the Ministry of Tourism. I scribbled my name a half-dozen times and shook a bunch of official hands... swallowed the obligatory cup of sweet tea and voile!! we walked out with an all-important Everest climbing permit. We retreated to the hotel to join Bill and Sara for dinner. Despite the fun reunion, we got yawning and fading fast... hopelessly jet-lagged we stumbled off to our rooms. Linden Mallory is already up in the Khumbu, we'll get together with him about a week into our trek, and Mark Tucker will join us at about the same time to complete the team. For now it is just four of us, which made today pretty easy when it came to a final gear check and packing session. We enjoyed an interview and conversation with Bili Bierling who is helping the legendary Elizabeth Hawley with the monumental task of keeping track of climber statistics in the Nepal Himalaya. Then we each made a few forays out into the streets to track down odds and ends -our version of sightseeing at this busy point in the expedition. We need to be ready to fly good and early tomorrow morning, up from 4,000 feet in Kathmandu to 9,200 feet in Lukla before the air gets cloudy and turbulent. My clock is set for 4:15 and my bags are packed once again... with luck we'll be walking in mountains by mid-morning. RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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I am constantly amazed at the determination of the human spirit, regardless of age. The Olympics is a great example.  Our 17 year old luge racers travel 80 mph, our 14 year old uneven parallel bar competitors risk life and limb, 16 year old downhill skiers speed at 90mph! on two skinny boards! on ice!  Some die from it.  However, over half of the US population is unable to find their ass with both hands (despite their extensive “life experiences”).  So, if some 18 year old wants to train and discipline themselves to conquor Everest, I salute them.  No offense intended Michelle

Posted by: Bart Miller on 3/30/2011 at 10:53 am

I have to question the motivation/reasoning behind allowing kids under 18 to climb Everest.  No matter how mature they might be, there just isn’t the life experience to draw upon in my humble opinion.  While I think Dave Hahn is a very accomplished climber, it makes me lose some respect for him in his choices to accept clients such as this.  Money talks I suppose.

Posted by: Michelle on 3/29/2011 at 9:55 am


Vinson Massif: Hahn & Team Descend from High Camp, Return to US

What a difference a day makes.  Yesterday morning we woke at Vinson high camp and finished the “day” around a campfire in Miami, Florida. 

We packed camp on another cold but beautiful Antarctic morning and started climbing downhill at 11:30 AM.  Getting down the steep “fixed rope” section was the tricky part, but we managed it without great difficulty and pulled into low camp at 1 PM.  We switched gears, pulling off crampons and rigging sleds for the lower angled glacier walk to Vinson Basecamp.  There were some low clouds about and a forecast for more to come, so it wasn’t certain that we’d be able to fly out.  But we didn’t think too much about that as we walked the amazing walk down the Branscomb Glacier to VBC.  We pulled in at 4 PM… minutes after Russ landed his ski equipped Twin Otter.  We were greeted at VBC with fist bumps, champagne and COVID tests.  We did the duffel shuffle into the plane and shared a last cocktail with the top notch ALE staff.  Bidding Scott and Hannah goodbye, we loaded up and flew to Union Glacier.  Our timing being perfect, as always, we showed up at 6:30, just in time for an excellent dinner -sitting in chairs at a table in the comfortable dining tent.  By then we knew our Bombardier jet was inbound and so we simply extended dinner for a few hours to sit and talk and mingle with the other adventurers.  Nimsdai, the great Nepali climber and expedition leader, walked in fresh off a plane from the South Pole, and regaled our team with accounts of skiing the “Last Degree”

The “Global” landed at 11PM on the blue ice runway as we watched and cheered.  We took our last steps on the glacier and up the ramp to the luxury of the plane.  Within minutes, Sniggy transformed from Vinson climber to Pilot and lifted us off the Ice.  In less than four hours we were back to Punta Arenas, but only to refuel and say goodbye to Ed Viesturs -who stayed behind for a planned second Vinson climb.  The team toasted Ed as we flew through the South American night.  By early afternoon we were in Miami, Florida and welcomed “home” by Sean “Stroker” Gustafson.  Stroker -the famous F16 pilot and former Vinson climber- had us out to his place for a memorable evening of jet skiing, fishing, and fabulous dining.  Stroker’s family made us quite comfortable and welcome around a campfire to finish the “day”.  The team told stories of mountain climbing and space travel.  We laughed and plotted future adventures long into the night.  It is rare to end an Antarctic journey with a campfire in the sand, but I highly recommend that you try it. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Aconcagua Expedition: Jake Beren & Team Depart Mendoza

Hello everyone, Our team has arrived in Mendoza excited and ready to start our Aconcagua adventure! After finishing up our permits, grabbing the last minute supplies at the grocery store and gear shops, we are ready to head out of town. It is a beautiful day here in Mendoza and should make for a great drive to Penitentes where we will ready our gear for the mules and have one last night of Argentine cuisine before switching to the equally appealing mountain cuisine that will fuel our climb. Tomorrow we will leave civilization for a few weeks and start the climb. Wish us luck everyone and stay tuned as we work our way up this beautiful mountain. RMI Guides Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Geoff Schellens
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Hey Rich!  Checking in every other day & thinking of you always.  Have an amazing time & send me a postcard from the top!!  Stef

Posted by: Stef on 12/18/2011 at 11:09 pm

Dave G. Thinking of you constantly, have a good and safe climb. Love you.

Posted by: Connie on 12/16/2011 at 1:36 pm


Mt. Baker: Bealer and Entire Team Stand on Top

RMI Guide James Bealer checked in from the summit of Mt. Baker this morning. He reported that 100% of the team was on top! The team enjoyed a beautiful bluebird day with little to no wind on their ascent to the top.

They were beginning their descent back to camp to celebrate and will get a good nights rest before packing up camp tomorrow.

Congratulations to the climbers!

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Acclimating Hike to Camp 2

Current report from RMI's Everest team: Windy and cool with the jet stream right over the region today. Wind usually means not much snow and that is the case today. RMI Guide Dave Hahn and crew went on a hike toward Camp 2 and are now back at Camp 1 for another night in their great First Ascent tents. Sherpa team is planning to carry more gear up to Camp 2 tomorrow. We are just stock piling Camp 2 for now, leaving gear in duffel bags and not putting tents up since it will still be about a week before the team stays overnight. Without a staff at Camp 2 to keep track of tents, there is no sense in subjecting them to tough weather conditions. The whole team is in great shape and the game plan is right on schedule. It is just a matter of time and next thing you know it, it will be summit push time. Big mountains take a while but they are sure worth it. RMI Guide Mark Tucker


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Camp 1.

On The Map

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Yo Mark -
Kim and John reporting in from the deck of the Tides Tavern in Gig Harbor! It’s been spectacular here the last couple of days - but we miss hanging out with you; well, maybe except for those two days in Gorek Shep.

Looks like you’ve settled in for the long haul - but hopefully you’re finding time for some golf!

Be safe, we’ll be following the team the next few weeks.  Namaste.

J&K

Posted by: John Gilman on 4/23/2012 at 9:43 pm

Conrad and Dave H. you guys rock. if i had never seen the video of you guys climbing the Pacific Ocean wall in Yosemite, i never would have began to climb. Climbing has changed my life and i owe it all to you guys (along with Jimmy) Keep charging on, and be safe.

Posted by: Samuel Short on 4/23/2012 at 12:29 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climbs Unable to Climb due to High Winds

The Four Day Climb June 8 - 11 led by RMI Guides Walter Hailes and Dominic Cifelli were unable to make their summit attempt this morning.  Strong winds and blowing snow made for unsafe climbing conditions and kept the team hunkered down at Camp Muir over night.  The telemetry from Camp Muir shows wind averages ranging from mid 20 to mid 60 mph over night with gusts up to 79 mph.  When the group radioed the office this morning they were experiencing estimated 50 mph winds. The team will be descending from Camp Muir today and return to Rainier BaseCamp.  Unfortunately, today was not their day to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier.

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Next time boys!

Posted by: Brandon Sprout on 6/11/2021 at 9:54 pm


Denali Expedition: Frank and Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

Thursday, May 27, 2021 - 10:37pm PT

An uncertain forecast greeted us this morning as we packed up to move to Camp 3. We ate breakfast in a windy snow storm, but in a stroke of luck the clouds lifted as we climbed away from camp. Our good fortune was tragically short lived. By the time we got to Windy Corner, the wind was gusting so hard our sleds were blowing sideways. Sharp crampons, good footwork, and strong legs got us through our obstacle. After picking up a few items from our cache, we pushed through two feet of fresh snow all the way to Camp 3, at 14,300 feet. 

We built camp in a mild blizzard and quickly hopped into our sleeping bags. Today was a tough day.  Days like these are when you really earn your chance to be on the mountain. We’re proud of how our team performed and got the job done.

RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team

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Go Heidi! Two feet of fresh. Brutal!

Posted by: Steve Christie on 5/28/2021 at 8:43 pm

Ooooh, I bet those sleeping bags felt good! Hope your weather improves for the next part of your climb!

Posted by: Maxine Kay on 5/28/2021 at 7:30 pm

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