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Mexico Volcanoes:  Team Summits Orizaba!

Hello everyone on the RMI Blog. I hope you're paying attention. We have a great news to report. Team Mexico is on the Orizaba summit right now. We had just a beautiful day climbing. It took us just under eight hours to get up here. Sun is all out. Clouds below. We've got a beautiful view. We actually can see Popo, La Malinche, as well as Ixta. We of course climbed La Malinche and Ixta, so we have just beautiful views of those mountains we were on just a couple of days ago. And now we capped it off, and it couldn't have been better, on a beautiful day on Orizaba, the third highest peak in North America. Everyone says hello to friends and family. They are all excited, all happy, gaining some strength for the way down. It was a tough climb but they all did really well. This is Elias and JJ here with Team Mexico. We'll check in with you when we get down to Senor Reyes' tomorrow. RMI Guide JJ Justman


RMI Guide JJ Justman calls from the Orizaba summit.

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Mt. Rainier: August 14th Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb August 11 - 14 led by RMI Guide Jason Thompson reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today! This team is comprised of climbers helping to support Big City Mountaineers Summit for Someone Program. Jason reported cold temperatures and a light wind with a cloud cap descending onto the summit. The team began their descent from the crater rim shortly after 7 a.m. PT en route to Camp Muir. They will continue their descent to Paradise later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's summit team and a special congratulations to RMI Guide Jason Thompson for reaching the summit of Mt. Rainier for the 100th time! Way to Go!
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Team Readies For Move To Camp 1

There were lots of heavy boots trudging by the tents in the dark this morning. Climbers and sherpa bound for the Icefall, naturally. Not from our camp today though. It was another packing/rest day for our team. Seth Waterfall and I took the opportunity to get our climber out on the ice pinnacles after breakfast for some more training in rope techniques. Erica is looking more comfortable with each session of rappelling down and jugging up the lines we fix. While out there in the middle of the glacier, we heard (and felt) a few big rumbles as ice avalanches cut loose in various places. One tumbled down off Everest's West Shoulder and obviously crossed the Icefall climbing route, luckily missing any climbers in the process. That one certainly pointed up the need for a slightly better and more protected route in the region, and I was encouraged to hear that Willie Benegas may have found just such a route a little farther out toward the middle of the Khumbu Icefall. We shall see whether his discovery is accepted and improved by the Icefall Doctors responsible for fixing ropes and ladders. The Ice Docs are a great bunch of guys. We had them over for a small gift of hats and T-shirts yesterday evening, and we heartily thanked each of the seven men who have been risking their lives to find us safe passage through the big jumbled glacier pouring out of the Western Cwm. We were all astonished when Ang Nima mentioned that he'd been climbing on Everest since 1975, when he worked for Chris Bonington's famous Southwest Face expedition. Since Gerry shot that beautiful and frightening footage of an avalanche crossing the climbing route above Camp 1 we have received lots of questions and comments about such events. That particular event was likely the result of a snow cornice breaking up near Nuptse's summit at 25,000 ft. The cornice -an overhanging snow deposit- may have built up due to strong prevailing west winds in the night and then busted loose when the first strong rays of the sun hit it in the morning, causing it to settle and fracture. Due to that type of process, we have to worry about "new snow" avalanches even when there hasn't been any "new snow" falling from the sky. An ice avalanche, by contrast, is a piece of glacier breaking loose and cascading down. These are scary. They are also a very normal part of the way glaciers move. One cannot predict when a chunk of glacier has decided that it has hung around long enough and that it is now time to thunder down on whatever is below (chunks of glacier -more properly "seracs"- are not made of light, fluffy snow, but instead of dense ice the consistency of concrete). There are a number of "hanging glaciers" threatening the West Shoulder side of the Khumbu Icefall, as I mentioned, but we also need to be quite careful of the seracs that make up the Icefall itself... a hundred foot high tower of ice collapsing a hundred feet upslope can be difficult to get out of the way of. To most of us, there is something slightly more menacing and inescapable about an avalanche dropping in near freefall for 5000 ft. off the West Shoulder though. I suppose that it is like choosing to get hit by a slow bus rather than by a sports car at top speed, understanding that both bring a fair amount of discomfort. Our various routes do get "dusted" from time to time, as Gerry's video showed, with no actual debris crossing the climbing route, but a big and dramatic powder cloud engulfing those on the track and likely causing them to hit the deck and cover up for a minute or two. Our best strategies for dealing with avalanches on the lower part of the mountain involve moving as quickly as possible through known hazard areas and looking for alternate routes (as Willie apparently did today) when we can. We go early in the day, before sunrise, because this affords us some protection from certain types of avalanches, but it doesn't solve our problems with serac fall. Glaciers move in the night, just as they move in the day, and so their chunks continue to get pushed off randomly rather than when we'd like them to. Getting an early start just feels a lot safer in a world of frozen bridges and towers. The footing can get sloppy later in the day and the heat can get oppressive when the high-altitude sun gets bounced around enough in a concave valley. So when our first team of climbers (Ed, Melissa and Peter) move up tomorrow, they'll go early and they'll try to move at a business-like pace and they'll look after one another on the move to Camp 1, in addition to checking in by radio with those of us at basecamp. We take the hazards of this lower mountain seriously, which is why we've "waited" a week before setting sites on sleeping at Camp 1. Best to be acclimated and ready to use all of one's fitness for this particular push. We built up that fitness a little more this afternoon by hiking down to the approaches to basecamp for a building project. Many teams gathered, perhaps a hundred climbers, in order to build a helipad. We don't want to use the helipad for helicopters ... they tend to crash up here in the thin air and hard rock, and we all live in soft shelters that perform poorly when subjected to shrapnel. But of course, if there is an emergency evacuation that a helicopter may be the correct tool for, we want the pilots to enjoy a flat and stable pad of rock. So we all moved rock around for an hour while laughing, breathing heavily, and catching up with long-lost pals from the mountains. Plenty more Pujas took place today ... the gods have to be at least a little bit impressed with all of the offerings and pretty flags and fragrant smoke. Perhaps they'll mind those seracs and cornices for us while we get the safest possible routes established.
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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Hahn & Team Have Windy Day at Camp

Tuesday, July 1, 2025 - 10:04 pm PT

Today was windy from start to finish, which we weren't quite expecting from the forecasts. There was plenty of sunshine though and so it wasn't uncomfortable. But we mostly hung in the tents, just coming out occasionally to look at the world stretched out below. And to look at the route to Denali Pass, over and over. The avalanche hazard still exists and we can't will it away by staring at the slope. The team is agreed that we'll look at it one more time -tomorrow morning- but then, without some dramatic change, we'll descend, as the teams around us have done.  The forecasts are calling for strong winds up high now in any case. 

It is a tough situation.  Luckily we are climbing with tough people.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hope tomorrow morning brings good news! Best of Luck to All!

Posted by: Mike Baron on 7/2/2025 at 9:29 pm

Holding out hope for a clearing—stay safe!

Posted by: jen ostrich on 7/2/2025 at 9:16 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Teams Reach Summit on Gorgeous Day

RMI Guides Tatum Whatford and Felipe Guarderas led their Five Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  The guides reported an amazing day with light winds and clear skies.  The route is busy with climbers so the teams reached the crater rim and have started their descent to Camp Muir. Once back at camp the climbers will enjoy a relaxing afternoon on the mountain and celebrate their accomplishment.  The team will spend tonight at 10,080' and continue the remaining 4.5 miles/4,500' down to Paradise tomorrow.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Such a wonderful trip! Still reeling. Looking forward to the next one ;)

Posted by: Alex Trimpe on 7/1/2025 at 11:12 am

Wonderful accomplishment! Congratulations.

Posted by: Joyce Metcalf on 6/29/2025 at 8:17 pm


Denali Expedition: Cifelli and Team Watch and Wait

June 17, 2023 8:56 PM PT

The weather had other plans for us up here at the base of ski hill. We woke up to wet snow hitting the tent and an ominous cloud staring at us from our intended path.

When Denali speaks, we listen. After a lot of watching and waiting, we turned our move into a rest day. We ate, slept, played cards, and read books to pass the time. Luckily, it’s in one of the most beautiful places on earth. Tomorrow, we’ll try again. Wear your pajamas inside out for us.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli and Team

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Thank you for the updates!!

Posted by: Jenni on 6/19/2023 at 5:56 am


Ecuador Volcanoes: Knoff & Team Train on Cotopaxi

Hello friends, family and all other followers!  The team is currently at Refugio Ruales Oleas Bergé, situated at 15,100’ on the SW flank of Volcán Cayambe.  We arrived yesterday afternoon in good spirits after pushing through a few downpours on the 4x4 truck ride to the hut.  A late dinner was accompanied by tales of past climbs and some impromptu mountain trivia.  Other teams in the hut were prepping for a summit bid, we headed to bed early and wished them good luck.

This morning we woke up to some fresh snow and in and out of a cloud.  No big deal, our primary goal was to get to the toe of the glacier and do some skills training.  Our review of climbing skills was a success, the guides looked at each other in astonishment as literally every team member performed a textbook team arrest position on the first try!

Weather-wise it has been a pretty good day, giving us high hopes for tonight’s climb.  The team is fit and seems to be acclimating well, tonight will be the true test!

RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Dustin Wittmier

On The Map

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Hello everyone…

I’m as impressed as your guides are. You’re an awesome team!!! Believe in your ability. You got this!

You can take a man/woman and measure them, examine them, analyze them and dissect their statistics but you cannot look into their heart. That’s where the thirst is—-the hunger. That’s where desire turns to fire.
                                                By M. L. Carr
LUMTA 1TF

Posted by: Geri Kuehn on 1/28/2020 at 9:29 am

Wishing all a successful summit and a safe trip. Thx for the great blogs!!! Mom

Posted by: Jane on 1/27/2020 at 6:40 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Descend Back to 14K Camp

Saturday, June 29, 2019 - 4:46 PM PT After a good night's sleep at high camp we woke up with the sun, had breakfast, and packed up camp. We descended the West Buttress and the fixed ropes on the Headwall and made it back to the 14k Camp by noon to beat the heat of the day. We've decided to spend the night here and rest. Our plan is to spend tomorrow here also and wait until colder weather at night to travel back to the airstrip at Kahiltna Basecamp. With any luck we will be flying back to Talkeetna on Monday. We'll keep you posted with our downhill progress. But for now we're enjoying some well-deserved rest in preparation for a long descent. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Congratulations to Ethan and Mylan. You have lived your dream! We are so glad to hear that you are safe and on your desent. Mom and dad

Posted by: Shoshana Mark on 6/30/2019 at 11:38 am

What a strong emotion you must have experienced ! Congratulations for your wisdom and strength to all of you during this ascent. Have a very safe trip back.
Mylan, that is simply amazing :-) I hope to see you soon to hear about all this adventure !

Posted by: Cécile Boineau on 6/30/2019 at 2:02 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climb Team Reaches Summit

RMI Guides Brent Okita & Chase Nelson led their Five Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Brent reported a beautiful day on the mountain with clear skies and a light breeze. The team began their descent from the crater rim shortly before 7 AM PT. The team will return to Camp Muir for a brief break and to repack before continuing down to Paradise and concluding their program later this afternoon. Congratulations to today's climbers!
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So excited to hear you summited!  Congratulations and wishing you a continued safe descent.

Hugs all around,

Kathy

Posted by: Kathy Simpson on 6/17/2019 at 11:54 am

Congratulations Everyone!!

Posted by: Carol Kean on 6/17/2019 at 9:25 am


Forbidden Peak: Blais & Team on Top!

Sunday, July 15, 2018 - 12:56 PM PT This afternoon we received a dispatch from RMI Guide Zeb Blais on Forbidden Peak in Washington State's Cascade Pass. The team reported beautiful weather and a successful climb. They will spend some time on top before beginning their descent of the technical West Ridge. Congratulations climbers!
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