UPDATE: September 6, 2023 10:59am PT Mike Walter and Team summit Mt. Shuksan via the Sulphide glacier in beatuiful weather. Nice work team!
We had a great day if training on the Sulphide glacier today. We covered snow and ice anchors, anchor systems, crevasse rescue, and did some ice climbing out of a crevasse. The weather forecast looks promising and we hope to try for the summit tomorrow morning. I'll check in tomorrow, hopefully from the top of Shuksan!
RMI Guides Mike Walter, Sam Hoffman and the Team on the Sulphide
RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team reached the summit of Forbidden Peak. The team is leaving the Boston Basin area after a successful week of climbing.
Congratulations Team!
Our Cotopaxi Express team enjoyed a tour of colonial Quito today, visiting various churches, museums, parks, and plazas, and learning about the history of Quito and of Ecuador. We then traveled to the equator, just north of Quito. There we visited an ethnographic museum, and straddled the equator with a foot in each hemisphere!
It was a good, relaxing day in Ecuador as everyone is adjusting to the new altitude (9,000') and recovering from a long day of travel yesterday. Tomorrow we'll head out on our first acclimatization hike, climbing Rucu Pichincha, a volcano outside of Quito.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
The team spent their last night on the trek out and has now reached the end of the trail. They will be making the drive back to Mendoza. Everyone is looking forward to good food, wine and a hot shower.
Yesterday, ALL TEAM MEMBERS AND GUIDES reached the summit of Cayambe around 6am EST. For those of us living in or around Seattle, we felt accomplished having completed such a hard activity before we would normally even be awake. Most climbers were back to the refugio by about 8am, a very speedy descent. Route conditions were ideal on Cayambe, when you would step out of the trail it was just a light dusting of snow on top of a supportable crust, meaning there was very little plunging, and the crampons would bite into the hard surface during the cold night. Although the route is in great shape, this is always a challenging mountain. At 18,500’ the route ascends a steep headwall for about 300 vertical feet before passing through crevassed terrain. Additionally, sleeping above 15,000’ for two nights and then going to nearly 19,000’ on day seven of an expedition is a quick jump in altitude and everyone seemed to handle it well. Now we turn our sights towards Antisana.
On our way to Antisana we are staying in two different haciendas. Last night we were at the rustic Guachala, which was built in the early 1500s. It has it’s charm and is steeped in local history; we also enjoyed a quiet dinner and breakfast under the watchful eye of the two house dogs, always hoping for a scrap. This morning we packed up and got ourselves closer to Antisana. We are using the beautiful yard at Casa Ilayaku to learn skills for our next climb (tent setup and running belays) as well as more expedition skills for future endeavors. Tomorrow we will go to Antisana basecamp via 4x4 vehicles and spend the night in tents before taking our shot at the summit.
RMI Guide Nick Scott and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team was unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Poor route conditions forced the team to call 13,100' their high point. The team will spend a final night on the mountain before finishing their descent tomorrow. We look forward to seeing them in Ashford tomorrow afternoon.
It was a little tough leaving the Plantation Lodge this morning, but it was time to Safari on! We made our way to Tarangire National Park making a couple of short stops along the way. Treasures from a far off land were acquired and a stop at a local tribal village made for an interesting cultural experience for the day. We enjoyed singing and dancing and a demo of how rubbing sticks together to make a fire. A quick tour of the mud hay and cow dung hut they call home then off to the park for more game viewing. The park is a series of parallel rivers, shallow valleys and broad savanna. Also boasting that it has more elephants per square kilometer than any place on earth. It didn't disappoint us with plenty of other animals as usual. We are tucked into our new lodge inside the park call Balloon Camp. The camp has screened-in rooms out deep in the bush allowing Africa to envelope your every fiber.
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
I'm actually going to be very honest and open myself up a little here... but I'm actually sad that my adventures in Russia are coming to an end. It was another incredible season on Elbrus and as usual it is the best way to finish the adventure here in St. Petersburg!! Our team spent the day touring this incredible city and yes...We were all on a boat this evening touring the Venice of The North!!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Update Saturday, May 30th 8:30 pm PDT
Mike Walter & team were safely back at camp by 6 pm PDT. They will begin their descent to Basecamp tomorrow.
Saturday, May 30th 2:40 pm PDT
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team are standing on the summit of Mt. McKinley! Mike reported a strong team and and short-sleeve weather on top. The team will begin making their descent shortly and will send a dispatch when they are back at camp.
Way to go team!
Totally awesome .....congratulations To RickyBobby and Ericquito!! We are so proud of you! Can’t wait to tell you in person. Perseverance pays off in a big way. Looking forward to catching up at the lake.
XOXOXO your aunts and uncles in Chicago
Posted by: Maca-Mangan-Surpless on 5/31/2015 at 6:16 pm
Congratulations Solveig! I can’t wait to see you back in Seattle. Love you lots
TS
Well it sure has been an action packed few days for our team here in Mexico. After a wonderful rest day (I'll let everyone share their own tales when they return) where the crew scattered about the city causing mayhem and generally having a ball, we launched for Tlachichuca. We'd all been nervously watching the weather after our trouncing on Ixta and the forecast was unclear, on all fronts. We had seen everything from the apocalypse to passable, but there really is never any substitute for the nowcast. Upon arrival at the base of the mountain, in our old friend Dr. Reyes' climbers compound, we learned that no one had summited in days and that getting to the hut would require a few hours of walking. Snow had overtaken the road and trucks couldn't reach the hut. No one had ever seen such a low snow level, let alone heard of a vehicle making through drifts feet thick in spots. We were in for it if we were going to even make it to the hut.
We decided to go see how far we could get anyway and started climbing up the steep, muddy road towards the hut. The higher we drove, the more snow there was on the road. Eventually the trucks couldn't climb much higher and it looked like the walk was going to be epically long. But then, an ace up our sleeve saved the day and a teammate who probably doubles as a stunt driver for the winter chase scenes in James Bond movies stepped to the plate. Voila, we took hours off our approach, making it much further. In the end we walked for under an hour before laying claim to a deserted hut.
As we walked to the hut, Orizaba loomed over our heads. It sure looked nasty up high, dark clouds whipping over the summit and most of the glacier fully obscured. No one was really mentioning what we all were thinking, but some sure would have to change if we were going to get very high on this one. After a quick review of some climbing techniques, we feasted and turned in for the night. We woke very early and could see a few stars!! Dios mio! As we readied ourselves, the wind came out and it began to lightly snow the higher we climbed. Since we were the only climbers in days, the team broke trail through the night and as the storm built turning back was on everyone's mind. Each break we reached we reassessed the merits of continuing and we kept reaching the same conclusion, "one more stretch." When we reached the top of the Labyrinth (a rocky maze broken by snowy, usually ice, gullies), the wind and snow were peaking. Everyone was dealing so well with the weather that we decided we would climb for a half an hour on the glacier and turn back if it didn't improve. As we kicked steps up the glacier, the skies lightened slightly in the morning sun and the wind lessened a knot or two.
"One more stretch?"
"Por que no?" we concluded and repeated the question for the next few hours, constantly aware of our conditions and strengths. Continually assessing progress and our teammates, eventually it looked like it was going to be a fight, but that we just might stand on the cumbre! No summit is worth an injury, so the minute things looked like they COULD be sub ideal, we were ready to head back knowing we gave it our best. Orizaba respected the effort and graciously offered our team of intrepid explorers a glimpse of the top and happily we accepted the invitation. What a treat! Standing on top was a real achievement, and as the only crew on the whole mountain we had the whole hill to ourselves. Amazing day in the mountains.
The weather cleared a bit for the descent and our team did a great job handling the hardest part of the climb, the descent. A truck was even able to make it to the hut and happily saved us an hour of tired walking through the mud at the end of a long day. When we got back to Tlachichuca, hot showers and a marimba band made dinner even that much better.
Quite an adventure down here in Mexico, can't wait to see everyone back home!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
I had an absolute ball on this trip. The whole crew was so welcoming and it was nice to be able to come out of my shell quite a bit. The Power Wagon as you know was a highlight for sure. I sure hope we are all able to stay in touch!
Go team go. So glad you are all doing well. Big shout out to Jodi and Chad !
Posted by: Tina on 9/8/2023 at 8:21 am
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