This is Dave calling from Mt. McKinley, from 11,000’ specifically. We had another great day today. In fact, it was the best weather of our trip so far. It was nice and cold this morning, we woke up at 5, and we had broken camp and were on the trail by 7 a.m. and made good time coming up to camp at 11,000’. It was again pretty easy going, there's not many other folks out there, there's nobody behind us that we are aware of. And so, it’s delightfully uncrowded. We had an easy go of it for the first hour up to the corner of Kahiltna Pass and then started up the hills to get to 11,000’. We were in camp before 10 o'clock a.m. so that went pretty well.
At camp we met Mike Haugen and his team coming down. And that was good for us. We exchanged a few pieces of gear they had some stuff that is going to be pretty helpful to us.
We got to chat with Mike and Elias and their team and congratulate them on their summit the other day.
We just set up camp here in 11,000’. It’s a beautiful bowl, looking out over the clouds and the tundra. We got settled in, it has just been very calm and nice here all day. Then this afternoon and this evening we prepared for doing our carry tomorrow. We are going to carry up and around Windy Corner if the weather continues to be good. And then come back down here and sleep at 11,000’ again. I will let you know how it goes.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from 11,000' on Mt. McKinley.
Wayne, I have just finished having dinner with Dinah at our place and she has shared with Barb and I about your climb. I have to admit that I’m quite impressed that you would take on a challenge such as this. On the other hand, since I’ve done a 14k footer in Colorado, I won’t be TOO IMPRESSED until you have exceeded that altitude and beyond! HA! It will be fun to follow your progess and I wish you well in this endeavor. Be safe, my friend, enjoy your challenge and we will join in the celebration of your accomplishment.
All the best,
Tim Scully
Posted by: Tim Scully on 7/7/2011 at 6:34 pm
Glad you have the weather on your side and are able to move up the mountain - hope it continues.
Sue Currie
We had a great kick off meeting last night and everyone is excited to be together and starting a fun week long mountain adventure to Pico de Orizaba. After quick introductions for Merrick and me (Alden, Brett, Jeff and John have climbed together in the past) we enjoyed a beautiful view from a roof top lounge looking over Mexico City. We then moved to Historico Azul a unique open air restaurant beneath a perfectly manicured canopy of trees for dinner. In each trees hung hundreds of small oil lamps giving the room a warm glow, and the food was delicious. Today we are driving to La Malinche, a small mountain resort, to begin our acclimation process with a promising weather forecast.
The Mt. Rainier Four Day Climb August 9 - 12 led by RMI Guide Casey Grom reached the summit this morning around 7:15 AM. The guides reported a beautiful day with light winds. They will enjoy some time in the crater before starting their descent. Once back at Camp Muir the climbers will have a short rest to refuel and re-pack. The hike down from Camp Muir will take the team around 2 and 1/2 hours and the shuttle will then return them to Rainier BaseCamp where they will enjoy a bit of celebration.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Monday, June 17, 2019 - 1:06 AM PT
After a rainy arrival in Talkeetna last night, we had a nice day to get our massive amount of gear ready to be flown on the glacier tomorrow. Our meeting with the Denali National Park rangers was great as always and we were rewarded with 20 CMC's (clean mountain cans) to make sure that all of our human waste gets removed from the mountain. Denali is a pristine mountain and the park service does an incredible job of making sure it stays that way.
We are scheduled to fly into base camp tomorrow morning. The group is hopeful that the weather allows us to fly at some point tomorrow so our adventure can begin and all of our climbers' hard work and anxious packing can start to pay off. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team Siete
Best wishes for good weather and a safe flight. I think I am as excited for the team as you are!
Posted by: Kristi (AKA Tym's Mom) on 6/18/2019 at 5:52 pm
Mike and team,
Hope you landed safely. CMC sounds so 21st century. Lol! But hey, happy Denali is being kept clean. Everest peoples are trying so hard to clean mountain up, but it’s years worth of refuse, and the deceased. So basically, y’all have to carry your own doggie bags, I mean CMCs.
Well after nearly four days spent at the luxurious Aconcagua Basecamp, it came time to move up high onto the mountain to about 16,200'. The team traveled efficiently and we made it to camp by 1 pm, even if the scree at the end had us "one step up, half a step back."
The weather is sunny and breezy with a cloud cap high on the mountain, maybe around 22,000'. We will spend the rest of the day relaxing so we can be prepared to carry gear to Camp 2 tomorrow, providing the weather continues in our favor.
Thanks for following,
RMI Guide Ben Liken
Hi Everyone,
Yesterday we hiked past Lake Ann and climbed 3rd and 4th class terrain to our bivy site at 5700'. The weather was generally cooperative, with light to moderate rain showers coming in and out.
The weather today is less accommodating; after a pleasantly dry breakfast we got back in our tents as heavy rain moved in. So, we're taking advantage of some down time to rest and hopefully we'll have a crack at climbing tomorrow.
This rain event is very unusual for July in the Cascades, and we're hopeful that we'll get back to the standard fare of sunshine.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Hello everyone! Well, we are still at high camp on Alpamayo. The weather during the evening last night was a variable mix of snow and wind with periods of calm in-between. Sometime shortly after 2am, we decided to take advantage of one of the calm times and see how the route would treat us. After several hours of difficult, waist deep, trail breaking the team managed to access the main couloir on the southwest face. Unfortunately it was a six-inch deep torrent of falling spindrift and finding ice to stick our tools into was impossible. We retreated and made it back to camp shortly after 6am.
We have decided to wait one more day and hope to see an improvement in the weather. Keep your fingers crossed that tomorrow morning we will find good climbing conditions.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
Leaving Papallacta behind today wasn't easy. We only spent a single night there, relaxing our muscles in the natural hot springs, but I'm sure many of us were ready to call it home. Wifi, beds, good food, cozy cabins... But alas, we must move on and continue what we came out here to do. The glistening white slopes of Antisana are calling out to us!
Our day did began with some sad news, however. Two of our climbers made the difficult decision to head home early due to a debilitating illness. We will miss them on the rest of our journey and we hope for a speedy recovery once they get back.
On paper, today's objective was to establish base camp at Antisana. In practice, however, it felt like our objective was to eat as much food as possible! After packing our gear, we ate a hearty breakfast at our hacienda, complete with fresh fruit, cheese, eggs, and bread. We loaded our gear and headed down the road toward Antisana. En route we stopped at a beautiful eco-lodge nestled at the base of a rocky cliff, famous for its native condor population. There, before our breakfast really had a chance to digest, we sat down for a delicious four course lunch. In truth, most of us probably could've stopped eating after the appetizers, but our insistent hostess made sure we finished the full meal. From there, another thirty minutes of driving brought us to the field that we'll call home for the next few days.
We spent the evening setting up camp, practicing various knots, hitches and bends, and (you guessed it!) more eating! Now the night is coming to a close, and everyone is inside their tents, resting up for another full day of training tomorrow.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Dominic Cifelli reached 12,300' on Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reached the mid-point of Disappointment Cleaver, but the strong winds of 40 - 50 mph forced the team make the decision to descend safely back to Camp Muir. They will return to Rainier Basecamp in Ashford later this afternoon.
Wayne, I have just finished having dinner with Dinah at our place and she has shared with Barb and I about your climb. I have to admit that I’m quite impressed that you would take on a challenge such as this. On the other hand, since I’ve done a 14k footer in Colorado, I won’t be TOO IMPRESSED until you have exceeded that altitude and beyond! HA! It will be fun to follow your progess and I wish you well in this endeavor. Be safe, my friend, enjoy your challenge and we will join in the celebration of your accomplishment.
All the best,
Tim Scully
Posted by: Tim Scully on 7/7/2011 at 6:34 pm
Glad you have the weather on your side and are able to move up the mountain - hope it continues.
Sue Currie
Posted by: Sue Currie on 7/7/2011 at 3:45 pm
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