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Training at Basecamp

We woke up to yet another beautiful and sunny day at Everest Base Camp. The team is still settling into the increased altitude and we are slowly ramping up our activity level in preparation for moving through the Khumbu Ice Fall. Today, we focused on ladder training as we will have numerous ladders bridging gaping crevasses and seracs between Basecamp and Camp One. Dave Hahn and Leif Whittaker decided to go for a short hike into the icefall to do their ladder practice while the rest of the team stayed in camp and created a simulated course. We rigged several ladders over the glacial rocks to simulate the icefall in which we practiced walking up and down the shaky ladders. For starters, we began in our trekking shoes stepping from rung to rung getting used to the shake and wobble of the aluminum ladders. Once everyone felt comfortable with this, we put on our stiff 8,000 meter boots and ran the course again. After this, we continued our progression and added roped hand lines while wearing crampons which best replicates the actual movement during icefall travel. With the addition of hand lines, we were able to steepen the ladder grade for both uphill and downhill travel and even practiced several "emergency" scenarios. One scenario involved stopping mid crossing and kneeling down on the ladder rungs to re-attach a crampon that had "accidentally" popped off. Although this was not a very likely scenario, it had the advantage of addressing a "possibility" while increasing confidence and agility. Everyone did a great job showing skill and balance and we are all looking forward to moving higher onto the mountain.
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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Hahn & Team Begin Descent

Wednesday, July 2, 2025 - 10:43 pm PT

There are amazing views every step of the way from the crest of the ridge, but with heavy packs and steep terrain to negotiate, we didn't take so many pictures. Sure enough, the wind was still blowing and the slope was still loaded when we woke at 17,000' this morning. We packed up and started down the West Buttress at 11AM. The fixed rope section went smoothly and we were digging up our 14,000' cache by 2PM and continuing our descent by 3:30. Much snow had fallen on Windy Corner since we'd last been there and the walking and sled pulling was a little challenging as a result. We persevered on down the Polo Field, Squirrel Hill and finally down the reflecting oven that Motorcycle Hill tends to be in late afternoon. At 11,000' we got right to work building a hasty camp and running the stoves. We'd been in blazing hot sun but as soon as we sat down to an outdoor dinner, a spectacular hailstorm hit. But we were hungry and sat through it. 

Folks are getting a few hours rest now. We'll get up in the night and make a push for the airstrip in the early morning hours.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Aww, Jon! Sorry the ever elusive summit just wasn’t in the cards again! But better safe than sorry. Great job to the entire team, I’m sure the views were spectacular all along the way. Get down safely!

Posted by: Sunita Bendale on 7/4/2025 at 2:06 pm

Impressed by the speedy descent! I’ve loved following along over the past few weeks, and hope everyone is healthy & safe. Hope the experience was wonderful, regardless of the outcome! We live to climb another day.

Posted by: Katie Gardner on 7/3/2025 at 10:19 pm


Gokyo Trek: Hahn & Team on the trail to Namche Bazaar

It was a crystal clear and bright morning in Phakding.  We started walking at 8AM along the charging, frothing, roaring river.  Before long we could see Thamserku towering 10,000 feet above us.  The rock and ice was in stark contrast to the lush farmland we walked through.  A couple of hours in, we reached the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park.  The team ate an early lunch at a tea house in Jorsalle before getting on with the big work of the day -climbing the Namche Hill.  It began with a walk across a very high cable bridge and then we set ourselves to walking slow and steady up switchbacks in a thick pine forest.  Things clouded up -predictably- as the day went on. We gained 2000 feet and finally turned the corner into Namche Bazaar at around 2PM.  We were relieved to pull into Camp De Base. Calling it a tea house doesn’t really do the place justice as it has become a fine hotel by any standard.  We rested and rehydrated for the afternoon and evening, getting used to life at 11,300 ft. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Put a Breath of Fresh Air in Your Core Strength Routine

The gym is a staple of many people’s training routine. For many who live in the city, or are simply trying to balance packed work, family and training schedules, the gym is the perfect place to get an efficient and high quality workout in. Really progressing in your training takes a lot of discipline and determination. While the gym provides a great venue to get a lot of work in, it can also be a place full of distractions and a place where routine starts to set in and your progress can begin to feel like it is stagnating. Alternatively, there are those who are almost allergic to gyms and avoid them completely. Regardless, after months of training towards your goal, if you live in a locale that isn’t currently anchored in a deep freeze, taking your strength workout outside is a great way to break your routine and inject some new energy to your training.   Pick your favorite short jogging loop, and rather than just going for a 45 min jog, turn it into a core strength session.  Set out for a good warm-up, jogging at a gentle pace that is still conversational. After 10 or 15 minutes of jogging, set your sights on a comfortable spot (grass or a forest floor are much nicer than concrete!) and pick two exercises to do a set each of (pushups and crunches for instance). This style of workout will build more endurance strength since it utilizes body weight, so try to pick a number of repetitions that you can do several sets of with recovery, but still push you hard in the individual set. 60 full crunches and 40 pushups is a great example. Once you have completed both sets, return to your feet and jog easily for 200 meters. Rather than a standing recovery, the active recovery of jogging easily will still allow you to recover, but will train your body to recover while maintaining at least some level of effort. After the active recovery, pick another comfortable spot and pick two more exercises to do a set of each (dips on a park bench and side planks). After completing the second round of sets, jog again for another 200 meters before doing a third set of exercises. 6 exercises is a great number to start with for your total workout. Continue the process until you have done 3 sets of each (9 total strength stops). Once you are done, finish the loop to cool down and head home!   As you progress, you can vary the workout in the number of repetitions you do during each set, or by varying the total number of sets. Try to mix up the exercises that you use week to week, so that you stress muscles in a different way. This a great workout to do with partners. You can spice it up by having different partners choose the exercises for a given set, which can add variety, an element of surprise, and show you some new exercises to add to your routine. Your local park or parkway is a great place to head to for this workout. If you don’t have a loop that is suitable, try a couple of laps of a small park. While it may take some imagination to get going, getting outside and breaking up your strength routine is a great way to keep the upward progress of your training going! _____ These resources have a number of good core exercises for inspiration: http://www.brianmac.co.uk/exercise.htm#cte https://experiencelife.com/article/core-circuit-workout/ http://www.sport-fitness-advisor.com/circuit-training-exercises.html
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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Rest & Train

June 16, 2014 11:31pm PT Happy Monday from all us sinners up here at 14 Camp! Today we rested and trained for our foray up the fixed lines. After a bit of afternoon rest we then spent some time fortifying camp. It's been great up here so far and we are lucky to be surrounded by the other RMI teams. Everyone had been super hospitable and helpful getting settled in. If the weather allows, we will try a mission to the top of the fixed lines. If not, a day of rest sure wouldn't hurt. That's all from 14! RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team
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George and Team - it is amazing what you guys are doing.  We are all pulling for you!  Wishing you strength and good weather - Bergmann’s Heil! JE

Posted by: JE on 6/18/2014 at 5:55 am

14 sounds like a good number!  Looks like you are all in good company and the weather might be turning in your favor.  We are all watching for the moment you are standing at the top!
Safe travels to Dawn and team!
love mommeg and all from CT

Posted by: Meg Scata on 6/17/2014 at 9:03 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Carry Heavy Loads

A crisp early morning wake up in basecamp meant great traveling conditions for us as we eased our way up the glacier. It froze solid last night making our travel through crevassed terrain much safer. We carried our full loads of climbing and camping supplies as well as 21 days of food and fuel. Even with each of our sled and backpack combos nearing 100 lbs., we made the move to our new camp in exactly five hours. We are all feeling very fortunate to be sharing this extraordinary place with such a strong team. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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Hi Jeff.  I’ll be glad to share some of this 96 F heat with you.  Love ya!  Dad

Posted by: allen on 6/18/2011 at 8:45 pm

Yeah Patrick. I hope all your hard training is paying off.

Posted by: Sam on 6/17/2011 at 10:24 pm


Still in Punta Arenas

Antarctica was simply not in the cards today. Too windy down at Patriot Hills, where our big four-engine jet transport has to put down on wheels on an ice runway. The prevailing winds are across the strip and it doesn't take much to make airplane landing attempts unwise. It wasn't a big storm system, just normal katabatics... the gravity driven flow of air off the polar plateau, downward and outward toward Antarctica's coast. The good thing was that ALE could tell us definitively that the day wouldn't work, rather than keeping everybody in their boots and waiting hour to hour for some calmer conditions. People were free to lounge about or to stroll the quiet streets. It being Sunday in South America, there wasn't much at all going on in the streets of Punta Arenas this morning. There were a fair number of people walking about as a massive 2000 plus passenger cruise ship was anchored just out from the city pier. Well into the afternoon, it was a fine summer day, warm and windless, but in the late afternoon it clouded up and got cool and rainy. Typically, Punta gets dynamic weather with big swings on any given day. None of this prevented my climbers from going out to visit Otway Sound for a tour of the Magellenic penguin colony 70 km north of Punta Arenas. Once the gang was back in town, we walked a few blocks from the hotel for another fine and friendly dining experience at La Marmita. Walking home to the hotel, I told everybody to plan on flying, first thing tomorrow... but we'll just see what the katabatics have to say about things.
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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Cifelli and Team’s Time to Move

Friday, June 27, 2025 8:21pm PDT
 

Blog Denali – Day 19

Bonjour à tous!

Today marks day 19 since we all met in Anchorage, and day 17 on the mountain. Since the first week went so well, many of us believed we’d be off this frozen rock after 15 days... However, Mother Nature had different plans for us. I now understand why Denali has such a tough reputation: the freaking weather!

Today is our 10th day at 14k camp, and the 6th day of weather delay. We’ve endured two snowstorms, and the last one—lasting almost 36 hours—brought 40 cm of fresh snow. Although the weather is finally on our side today, we still can’t move due to avalanche hazards.

Over the past week, no one has summited, and the few teams that made it to high camp were stuck in even worse conditions than we’ve experienced. I’m grateful to our responsible and professional guides for making the decision to stay put.

On a more personal note, this has been one of the hardest weeks of my amateur climbing career. I’ve never waited this long in full winter camping mode, with almost nothing to do. Mornings are cold, and many toes in the team are freezing. On top of that, I feel weaker every day at this altitude. I’ve lost weight and am probably missing plenty of essential nutrients like vitamins and soluble fiber. (Also, the fact that I ran out of food and entertainment played a big role—LOL.)

On the bright side, my amazing team is kindly helping me survive—special thanks to Andrew for the Kindle, Tait for two bags of beef jerky, and Mikaila for letting me use her InReach. I’ve also gained valuable experience for future adventures. I’ve learned about clothing layers (my thin ones suck), baby Nalgene bottles, Leuko tape, pressure breathing, how much toilet paper to bring, glacier travel, gnarly supplements, and more.

Overall, it’s amazing that all 9 team members (and 3 guides) are still here, holding onto hope of reaching the summit. We’re also lucky, in a way, to have a weather window this weekend for a summit attempt. Many teams haven’t even gotten that chance this year.

À ma famille et mes amis, j’ai hâte de vous revoir! J’espère que vous passez un beau mois de juin, plus chaud qu’ici! Même si je manque une partie de l’été montréalais, je profite énormément du plein air, et les paysages glaciaires sont à couper le souffle. J’ai hâte de vous montrer les photos! Évidemment, je suis très stressé pour les deux prochains jours... Envoyez-moi des ondes relaxantes, haha!

Étienne XOX

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Salut Étienne! Sens-tu l’énergie que je t’envoie du lac Temiscouata, Lou aussi t’envoie plein de bonnes ondes alpha. . Une semaine à chilller, une rare opportunité. Le mot chilller prend un autre sens dans ton cas. Évidemment je vous souhaite un départ imminent. Garde le moral et je suis surpris de lire que tu ne sembles plus avoir de brownies! Bonne continuation Étienne et n’oublie pas que nous sommes avec toi et que nous t’aimons. J’admire ton courage…. A bientôt

Posted by: Sylvain on 6/29/2025 at 6:15 pm

Go Mikayla:  You’ve got this.  Can’t wait to see pictures from the top of the world.  Love ya, Grandma

Posted by: Grandma Donley on 6/29/2025 at 12:26 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Team on Top!

The Four Day Climb from May 19–22, led by RMI Guide Brent Okita, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning!

At 7:40 AM, the team was at 13,500 feet and continuing their ascent. Conditions were snowy, but the team was doing well. Camp Muir reported high clouds and no wind at that time. By 9:15 AM, the team had successfully reached the summit.

They will return to Camp Muir to pack up their gear before continuing their descent to Paradise later today.

Nice work, team!

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Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Heading Up Hill to Second Camp, Shira Plateau

Wednesday, January 10, 2024

Jambo Everyone 

We are still here on Kilimanjaro! 

After a good nights rest and a full breakfast with plenty of coffee the team set off uphill for day two. We only hiked for a short while before the rain sadly returned, but we continued to persevere as we did yesterday. It was a pretty wet day so we took our time to stay safe and arrived in camp a little over 5 hours of being on the move. The team is doing well and in good spirits and very much looking forward to some much needed sunshine. 

We have enjoyed some delicious warm meals and joyous conversations in our dinning tent which has helped keep the morale high. 

If anyone back home is play “the rain in Africa” by Toto. Please turn it off!

RMI Guide Casey and crew

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