Most Popular Entries
Posted by: Eric Frank, Mitch Valaitis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,500'
The team turned around just above the Cleaver yesterday due to difficult walking conditions and challenging weather, which proved too demanding for the group. Eric and his team departed Camp Muir this morning at 7:40 a.m. and are en route back to Paradise.
Everyone is safe, in good spirits, and coming away with valuable mountain experience.
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
First thing this morning it looked a little windy up on the West Buttress. That was enough to switch our program to a rest day at 14,000. Of course, the wind died down and neighboring teams had no trouble climbing today, but we were happy to rest. Clouds came and went during the day and there were a few snowflakes but overall, the good weather is sticking with us.
Tomorrow will work just fine for that carry.
Best Regards,
The RMI Guides & Team
New Post Alerts:
Denali Expedition June 11, 2024
Posted by: Mike Walter, Jess Wedel, Michael Murray
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
We're resting in camp today. It's cloudy and snowing lightly. There's a big lenticular cloud cap up high. Our plan is to practice fixed rope travel in camp today and hopefully put in a cache at high camp tomorrow if the weather allows. We'll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
New Post Alerts:
Denali Expedition, May 5, 2024
Go, Nick, go!!! We love you and are cheering you on! Can’t wait to celebrate your summit and return home.
Love, Spauldings one & all!
Posted by: Sharon Spaulding on 5/21/2024 at 10:47 am
We love reading these blog posts! Thank you so much for sending and keeping the team safe. Tell Nick Roberts we love him.
Posted by: Kathie Roberts on 5/20/2024 at 3:53 pm
Posted by: Dominic Cifelli, Ben Luedtke
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Eight days ago eleven mountaineers drawn from around the globe to climb Mexican volcanoes gathered in a circle to introduce themselves. The group of two guides and nine climbers was comprised of friends from home, acquaintances from prior climbs, and some who were strangers to all.
Dominic, Ben, Catherine, Eric, Erica, Jean-Paul, Kat, Rich, Rossi, Thinus, and Woody came to Mexico with widely varied backgrounds, climbing resumes, and individual expectations. However, the group shared the common objectives of summiting La Malinche, Ixta, and Orizaba.
Frustration on La Malinche.
One of our group was felled below the tree line by a violent eruption of food poisoning. Half of the remaining climbers passed on attempting the last couple hundred meters to conserve energy for the week of climbing ahead. The remainder were turned back just 100m from the summit by local authorities closing the mountain early to clear the trails of spectators following the Sky Race.
Why do we climb?
Frustration on Ixta.
The team, strengthened by the addition of our local guide Allen, made high camp but our summit attempt was blown away by the violent eruptions of nearby Popo. The group descended to base camp powdered with ash and weighted with disappointment.
Why do we climb?
One last chance on Orizaba.
Setting out on the approach under the nurturing light of la luna and a clear star-speckled sky, the team was full of anticipation. We flowed up the oddly iced Jamapa glacier, traversed a segment of the mountain, climbed a challenging compact chimney, scrambled up seemingly endless scree, and then basked in the sunbeams of el sol, standing tall on the summit of the 3rd highest mountain in North America at 18,491 ft
(5,636m) of elevation. Elation.
Why we climb.
Through a week of hard work and at times harder play, the team have deepened pre-existing friendships and created potential to expand acquaintanceships. Strangers no more. Now we are sitting at breakfast, ready to return home and then continue our climbing journeys together and alone.
Why we climb…
Climber Jean-Paul Rebillard
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes February 24, 2024
Lovely, profound reflection.
Wonderful words, memorable illustrations.
Thank you.
And congratulation.
From Midwest USA flatlands.
Waltero
Posted by: Walter Glover on 3/4/2024 at 1:58 am
A great ending to what I am sure was an incredible experience. The breakfast of course I meant. I write in my recovery journal about how the mountaineers that reach summit never focus on summit really - the ones that succeed are the ones that live in the moment and enjoy the process of the climb in and of itself whatever that means to them. Your story is very beautiful.
#mahalo
Posted by: Scott Lipinoga on 3/4/2024 at 1:26 am
When’s the last time you walked out the door not knowing if you were going to be able to accomplish what you’re setting out to do? When’s the last time you got your doors blown off trying to complete a voluntary endeavor?
Whens the last time you forwent a night of sleep in order to be cold, exhausted, doubtful, exhillerated, out of gas, and awe inspired. All at the same time?
9 climbers attempted the summit of the highest peak in Mexico and the third tallest in North America today. 9 people left the comfort of their homes, took the time away from family and friends to train (hard), and came to try something they weren’t sure they would accomplish and did.
100% of the team stood on the summit of Orizaba at 930 am this morning. Despite the harsh conditions that the Jamapa glacier had to offer. It was a long, hard fought, and absolutely gorgeous day and we couldn’t be happier.
It’s now time to eat, reflect, and banter about how we got stopped by two popo’s, how much better Vermont maple syrup is, trials and tribulations in the Mexico móbil sauna, and wonder whatever we’re eating is a sandwich, soup, stew and what it means to be fueled by boar.
Congratulations to the whole team! AND ESPECIALLY Catherine Rossbach who became the oldest woman ever to summit Orizaba today!!
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes February 24, 2024
Catherine, you are my hero!! Huge congratulations to the whole team for your perseverance and this amazing accomplishment!
Posted by: Sara van Valkenburg on 3/3/2024 at 2:45 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,300'
Hey Team,
Well I was supposed to climb with you guys June 12-15, but I accepted a job and I ended up moving from Washington state to Texas and June 13 was my first day at the new job. I had to forfeit my position to climb, just a few weeks ago.
I know the feeling of training for months and then not getting to summit - it’s a bummer. This would have been my 4th time climbing with RMI on Rainier. I hope my message can reach someone new to RMI and mountaineering. Every climb is different and you learn something new each climb. It’s okay to be bummed for now, but don’t hangup your boots.
RMI is a class act and the more guides you meet, the more you will be inspired to keep climbing.
So, if you have that feeling of disappointment or being upset, know that it is normal and you can still tell your friends with pride, you are a mountaineer and that you will be back on Rainier soon. Happy trails. Matt
Posted by: Matt Stone on 6/16/2016 at 6:00 pm
Posted by: Billy Nugent, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
RMI Guide Billy Nugent calls in from 17K Camp.
On The Map
Keep warm and safe above all. The forecast is much better for the weekend!
Posted by: Monique on 6/27/2014 at 7:21 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Abby Westling, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Wednesday, May 17, 2023 - 7:54 pm PT
The forecast was for this weather system to begin to clear out today, and when we got up this morning we were hopeful that the trend was going in the right direction. We could see down below, had sunshine in camp, though it was still plenty windy. We dragged our feet to make sure it kept getting better by making a blueberry pancake breakfast. As we enjoyed that we listened to the wind get stronger and watched the tent get darker as clouds pushed up and we lost the sun. We continued to kick the can and see if we would get a chance to head downhill and grab our cache, but it continued to deteriorate. Eventually we pulled the plug and went to our weather day rhythm of tent hang, reading, cards, etc. Over dinner the sun finally poked back out so hopefully this system is finally moving out and we'll get our shot tomorrow.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
Posted by: Casey Grom, Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
AWESOME! So proud Patrick, John and Joseph!
Posted by: Darlene Halloran on 9/22/2014 at 12:46 pm
Posted by: Geoff Schellens
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Katie - we had a nice beach volleyball day with Emily visiting and the rest of the sandy llamas crew. A rest day, but a different kind of rest day. Good luck on the carry tomorrow!
Posted by: minwoo on 6/22/2024 at 8:23 pm
Rest is not idleness! Go team!!!!
Posted by: James Jackson Leach on 6/22/2024 at 2:49 pm
View All Comments