Jambo
We have just arrived at the Dik Dik resort.
A few hours of down climbing this morning has put us right back into hot showers and nice beds. We had a great trip and are so lucky with all the great local support that helped us achieve such great success on our climb. We head off to some of the National Parks tomorrow for a grand safari.
At 5:45 am this morning, under a canvas of clear skies and the first light of dawn, our Four Day Climb team—led by Ray Holt and an incredible group of climbers—stood on the summit of Mount Rainier.
The team encountered some wind while navigating the Disappointment Cleaver, but by the time they reached the summit, the winds had eased, offering a calm and peaceful moment at 14,410 feet.
Now on their descent, the team is making steady progress back to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to all the climbers and guides on this unforgettable achievement!
The Five Day Climb, led by RMI Guides Jack Delaney and Leif Bergstrom, reached the summit of Mount Rainier this morning, marking a successful ascent despite the cloud cover below. The weather was favorable, with clear skies overhead, and the team made the most of the opportunity, choosing today for their summit attempt as forecasts predict rising winds and rain tonight. After celebrating their success, they began their descent from the crater rim just after 10 am. The team will return to Camp Muir for a well-deserved rest before tackling the final 4,500-foot descent to Paradise tomorrow.
After dinner, a few of us sat around the dining table and I asked, “what was the highlight of your day?” And the answer was “walking through the pine trees in a cloud.” Someone else chimed in that they agreed because “everything seemed very peaceful.”
We had another big day - leaving Namche and heading toward Tengboche. Climbing up to the top of Namche and turning the corner on the trail to views of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam was remarkable. We had intermittent clouds this morning but the mountains continued to peek through as we moved along the trail. This is one of my favorite trekking days because the views are endless. We stopped for as many photos as possible because we knew the clouds would settle in by the afternoon.
Just before lunch, we headed back down a big hill toward the river and lo and behold we saw a large group of Himalayan tahr - a type of mountain goat. They were so curious looking at us looking at them with tilted heads and calm eyes. After lunch, we had two more hours of uphill. Everyone did excellent even as the clouds socked in and it began to snow. Before we knew it we were in Tengboche, dawning all the layers we brought to try to stay warm and dry.
We were able to have a very special blessing by the llama at the monastery and spend some time listening to their afternoon meditations and prayers.
Now, we are all tucked into our sleeping bags with hot water bottles right next to us. We are staying at a beautiful teahouse called Rivendell and being taken such good care of. It was a special day today and we are so thankful for the people of the Khumbu valley opening their hearts and homes.
Thursday, May 23, 2019 3:28 pm PT
Today the team focused on fortifying camp, finishing the snow walls that shield our tents from the wind. The Mountain treated us to beautiful morning views above the clouds while we worked, but the weather turned snowy by afternoon. Later in the day, the team practiced using ascenders in order to be prepared for our eventual trip up the fixed lines. Weather allowing, we are hoping to put those skills into practice tomorrow, leaving a cache of summit food at 16,000 feet.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
This is such exciting adventure to follow! I am so proud of my Grandson James!
It is such a pleasure to read each word on every blog—Thank you all for this! On to the Top of the
Denali World with safety!!
Posted by: Pat Howell on 5/25/2019 at 12:37 pm
The blog makes it sounds so beautiful! Stay safe and can’t wait to see your pictures and hear your stories.
Posted by: Jill and Kristi Snow on 5/24/2019 at 4:21 pm
The Four Day Summit Climb led by Nick Hunt reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team had clear skies and light winds. They have started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's Team!
Hello, this is RMI Guide Eric Frank calling from Grant's Peak here on the top of Mount Baker. We just had a beautiful climb on the North Ridge Route. Had a few other parties up here today, but we had perfect weather, great views, and a good climb. We are going to hang out on top for another 15 or 20 minutes and then we'll be headed back down to our camp. Hope everyone following along is doing well. Talk to you soon. Bye.
RMI Guide Eric Frank calls in from the Mount Baker summit.
Friday, June 26, 2015 - 2:47 pm PT
It is a snowy day here at Camp 4...The gang is currently chilling in the tents and posh on our first scheduled rest day that just happened to coincide with a change in the weather. Spirits are high and we are keeping our fingers crossed for marginally better weather tomorrow and a hopeful carry up to high camp.
Quotes of the day:
"Don't tell me how to eat my Oreos!" - Sean
"How are geriatrics and RMI guides alike? It depends..." - Art and Doug
"The wise man chooses nachos." - Mike
"I gotta save Canada from those gosh darn moose..." - Marc
"I love pico de gallo!" - Billy
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and Team
True to the forecasters' predictions the weather in Punta was clear and calm this morning and shortly before 8am we arrived at the Punta Arenas airport. We piled out of the bus and walked through the nearly empty terminal, a line of climbers wearing layers of down, gore tex and expedition boots waiting patiently with passports in hand to pass through airport security. Shortly thereafter the pilot gave us the thumbs up and we headed out onto the Tarmac to board the plane. The Ilyushin is a giant Russian built cargo jet made for field landings with a glass nose and the plane was full of equipment and supplies bound for the Ice with just a few rows of seats in the front of the cargo area. We climbed onboard and settled into our seats while the Kazakh crew gave us the safety briefing. Within a few more minutes we were airborne flying south.
The interior of the windowless plane doesn't offer much in the way of entertainment but the crew has rigged a gopro to film the view from the cockpit and it displays on a tv screen at the front of the cargo area. We spent the next 4.5 hrs swapping stories, reading, and gazing at the screen while we watched the southern tip of South America disappear behind us then a stretch of ocean that gradually filled with ice until all we could see was an expanse of white stretching out in all directions. As we neared Union Glacier the crew gave us a weather report: -15C and winds 10-15 out of the south - a beautiful Antarctic day. We all bundled up, adding layers of down and hats, sunscreen and gloves, as the plane lost altitude. On the screen the expanse of white began to be interspersed by rocky outcroppings and small windswept peaks - the foothills of the Ellsworth Mountains. Soon a faint strip of blue came into view: the ice runway of Union Glacier. Needless to say, landing a fully ladened cargo jet on a ice runway takes a long time to stop!
Stepping out of the plane was incredible: we were surrounded by an expanse of ice and snow framed by mountains in every direction. Glaciers that seemed close enough to reach out and touch them were really 6-10 miles away. The cold snow and ice squeaked underfoot and the light breeze felt like a biting wind. With all of our gear unloaded we caught a ride in ALE's big oversized vans to their camp where we were greeted by their staff. They served us a delicious hot meal on the ice while they took stock of the weather and the loads and then delivered more good news: the weather was holding and they felt comfortable flying us the final leg to Vinson Base Camp. We hurriedly finished our hot drinks, grabbed our bags, and then climbed aboard the smaller Twin Otter aircraft parked outside.
The flight along the edge of the Ellsworth Mountains went smoothly, we climbed steeply out of Union Glacier, passing through a layer of thin clouds, to an elevation of about 9500' and the flew north. To our left the Antarctic Ice Sheet stretched into the horizon while on our right a series of peaks passed by, gradually getting larger and larger until suddenly the Vinson Massif itself sprang into view. A 4,000'+ wall of rock and cascading glaciers guards most of the Vinson Massif and towers above the surrounding ice. We flew along the walls until the plane banked a hard sweeping downward turn and we came to a smooth stop on the Branscomb Glacier at Vinson Base Camp.
We unloaded our gear from the plane, thanked the pilot, and then set to work establishing camp and setting up shop. We are now cozy in our sleeping bags and it's nearing midnight while the sun still shines on our tent. A thin layer of clouds has been moving over camp and the temperature is downright chilly in the shade but were staying warm and are thrilled to be here. We can't believe our good fortune in getting to the mountain so smoothly. Tomorrow were hoping to move a portion of our gear to the base of the steeper climbing at Camp 1 and find some good glacier skiing on our way back to Base Camp.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory & Team
It is hard to sit under Alpamayo's southwest face and not stare for an extended period of time. Our team, along with three other groups moved up to the Col Camp (17,600') today and find ourselves trying to prepare for the ascent tomorrow, but constantly distracted by the beauty of the route. From our tents the route rises nearly 2,000 feet in a vertical line of frozen snow and ice. An alpinist's dream.
Getting to camp today was a job in itself. We climbed up a glacier for 90 minutes to the base of a headwall. It took three pitches of ice to reach the saddle where camp lies. The team performed well, but climbing 60-degree ice at 17,000 feet with 45-pound packs had everyone breathing hard.
Stay tuned for tomorrow. We hope to make an attempt and will call via satellite phone to update everyone with the results.
RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Alpamayo team
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Congratulations to Leland and the entire team!!! Have a safe trip down to Paradise!
Posted by: Emily Hardcastle on 7/20/2025 at 7:32 pm
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