May 26, 2015 - 10:33 pm PT
We woke early again today, hoping for good weather to move up to high camp. But it was not to be. A large lenticular cloud, indicating strong winds, had formed over the top of Denali, extending down beyond high camp. Winds were howling up high until a little afternoon today, when the cloud dissipated for a couple hours and then reformed in the afternoon. The winds were too strong for us to safely move camp to 17,200', so we rested again at 14,200'.
We took advantage of clear skies on the lower mountain to take a walk out to the "Edge of the World", a point south of our camp that looks down sheer cliffs about 5,000' down the the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The views from the Edge are surreal, and the scale is nearly incomprehensible.
We're psyched to see what the weather brings tomorrow, and we're ready to take advantage of good weather when it presents itself. We'll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team
Good morning friends and family!
The Alaska Seminar team here in Talkeetna is getting things done in great style. Weather is looking better with each passing hour and everyone did a fantastic job with rigging their gear. Here it is noon and we are just about ready to fly! So the team is gonna grab a last meal in town and our next communique will be from base camp!
Have a lovely day everyone,
RMI Guide Leon Davis
Hope everyone is having a great time. Mom/Grandma and Pop/Grandpa - we all miss you and love you. Have fun in the snow.
Love,
Joe, Suzanne, Lilliana, and Sophia
This is Dave Hahn calling from Mount McKinley. We were able to move from Basecamp to Camp 1 at 7,800’ today. We thought we were going to get a perfectly clear night, but it did end up a cloudy night again. The clouds rolled in as we were going to bed last night and put a little tension in things. We weren’t sure that the glacier surface was going to be able to freeze up with that cloud cover. We woke up to climb at 1:00 a.m. and the cloud cover was starting to break up and things were getting cold again and starting to freeze. We left Basecamp at 3:30 a.m. and conditions were pretty good. We moved on down to the main Kahiltna Glacier, and banged a right turn around Mt. Francis. The lower glacier right now is a little broken in that region with lots of crevasses. There is a lot of contour to the surface. It’s a pretty rough surface because there is ash from the volcanic eruption to the south from a couple years ago which is now on the surface of the snow. Things are melting out a little bit strange this year which made it a little awkward for sled pulling. We saw a number of other guided teams and other teams coming down and we witnessed a lot of folks stepping into crevasses. Most just post pushing a leg here and there but we actually did pretty well and didn’t have too much trouble. Conditions improved as we got closer to 7,800’ with good sled pulling condition. The group moved pretty well and everybody was feeling good, everybody was enjoying the morning.
It took us about 6 hours to here so by 9:30 a.m. we started setting up camp. We have had a relaxing rest of the day. We are taking it easy and trying to get out of the sun.
There is another snowstorm around but we seem to be in a hole. We can see it storm up higher on the mountain and back down at Basecamp. But for now it’s pretty nice right here.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from 7,800' on Mt. McKinley, July 2, 2011.
The Four Day Summit Climb June 9 - 12, 2011led by RMI Guide Nate Disser reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team was beginning their descent from the crater rim at 7:20 a.m. PT. They reported calm winds, cool temperatures and nice climbing conditions.
Congratulations!
Today the weather continues to be very good. Lots of clouds around the region, but very nice temperatures at Camp 2 and mostly sunny all day on Aconcagua.
The team took an active rest day today, we went for a short hike on the slope that is the first section on our way to Camp 3. Part of the group carried three days of group food, extra fuel and stoves to Camp 3 (Camp Colera). There we were able to talk with a couple of groups that just have returned from the summit, they passed along good news about the route conditions, it looks like crampons are needed above Independencia, which will make the climbing less difficult than the scree on the upper part of the route (Travesia and Canaleta).
Tomorrow we will move to Camp 3 (our higher camp) and prepare for our early summit attempt the next morning! We will be sending dispatches from Camp 3.
It's been a stormy rest day at 14,000' Camp. Early this morning, things were calm in camp and relatively clear. We could hear the wind above at 17,000', and large cloud banks seemed to hang all around. There was a large wall of white to the south of us, and by the middle of brunch, that had overtaken camp. We had little visibility and snow fell lightly. As the day went on, the wind direction moved just enough to subject us to it's gusts. The tents shake, spindrift is invading through any opening it can find, and snow continues to fall, harder now, drumming on the tents when the wind isn't shaking them. It has been a perfect day to stay deep in the sleeping bags, napping reading, snacking, playing cards, and venturing out occasionally to fortify our compound with walls cut from snow blocks. We are snug and riding it out. More tomorrow.
Hello again from 12,000' in Russia!
Things are good here and the team is excited for tonight! We did a little prep work for tomorrow by reviewing a few climb techniques and then rested the remainder of the day. Our cook, Dasha, has done a great job of filling our bellies with plenty of good ol' home cooked Russian food. We had a thorough discussion about tonight's climb and everyone is packed up and ready. Hopefully the weather continues to hold. we'll be waking up shortly after 1 a.m. and after a quick breakfast we'll hop on the snowcat to give us a bump a little further up the mountain. This will shorten our climb a little and increase our chance of reaching the highest point in Europe.
We had a trivia challenge today and one lucky winner will get to make a satellite phone call from the summit. So everyone following along, keep your phones handy, you just might receive a call. I'm expecting us to reach the summit around 10 a.m. here, in same time zone as Moscow.
Keep your fingers crossed for us!
RMI Guide Casey Grom and team
We successfully made it down from base camp back to Pampa de Lenas. Our celebration asado was an enormous success and went late into the night which may make our final walk to the road a little slower than normal but no one would have it any other way.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes & Team
Jambo!
Everyone arrived safely to the Dik Dik Hotel in Tanzania. We spent the day organizing gear and packing our bags. The Team looks in great shape and everybody spot on with a positive attitude.
We have just finished a five course meal and are looking forward to some much needed sleep after all our travels. We will be up early tomorrow to start the climb.
Word from the mountain is that a pretty big snow storm rolled through today up high, so it is nice to be down here for that one.
We will be sending updates on our progress, so stay tuned.
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Wishing you all a Happy Valentine’s day from the RMI Kili Team in Arusha!
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
I am Steve’s daughter Heather :) I just wanted to say how much all of you ROCK for doing this climb! Have a great climb!
And specifically to my dad: Dad, I am so incredibly proud of you and cannot wait to hear (and see) about this incredible experience!!! You are THE coolest and most inspiring person and father. Enjoy this trip - you deserve it! I LOVE YOU!
Sending you all positive vibes from Madrid,
- Heather
PS now I will leave you with my favorite quote:
“The purpose to life is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for never and richer the experience” - Eleanor Roosevelt
Checking in from a breezy Camp 1 after a great day on the mountain - everyone is doing well!
We said goodbye with big hugs and lots of encouragement from the incredible Grajales base camp team. Back on the trail with heavy packs, but this time we knew what to expect as we weaved our way through steep scree and rocks. We made it to Camp 1 in about 3.5 hours - almost an hour faster than our carry day which means our bodies are adapting to the altitude well!
We worked together to get the camp set up and Jack and I soon began making dinner. Though we were not alone as everyone on this crew is always pitching in to help in whatever way they can - getting water for tent mates, offering up extra hot drinks - we have each other’s backs out here and that’s a good feeling. Even though the cold wind is blasting through camp, we’re all tucked in and warm in our sleeping bags. Tomorrow we’ll carry loads and acclimatize up to camp 2 and back down to sleep at camp 1.
Glad to see you guys are doing well. Hope to see these sites myself in the next couple of year or so.
Thanks
Posted by: Kevin Stone on 5/28/2015 at 8:15 am
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