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McKinley: Day Five - Move to 11 Camp

May 6, 2007

Posted by: Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

We awoke this morning to find our trail from yesterday totally filled in. We waited at camp for an hour trying to decide on what to do for the day. We didn’t want to sit in camp all day, but breaking trail again didn’t exactly sound like fun either, especially as the weather was a bit worse than the day before. In the end we decided to move up. We quickly broke camp down and roped up. The trail breaking was just as tough as the day before, but luckily for us, we ran into another group coming down and were able to follow their trail into the 11, 200 foot camp. It was a great feeling setting up camp and knowing that we would be staying for at least two nights. The camp was bustling with activity as the recent snowfall had prevented teams from moving to the 14,000 ft. camp. Even the Rangers on the first patrol of the year were in camp.

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Denali Expedition: Gorum & Team Move to 17,000’ Camp

June 3, 2019

Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Sunday, June 2, 2019 - 11:10 PM PT We moved up to 17 Camp today. In my opinion, this is the second hardest day of the trip, but everyone handled it with style and grace. We had a perfect day moving up the West Buttress, with light winds and spectacular views. We’re all straight chillin in our tents now, eating dinner and snacks. The sun hits this camp until past our bedtime, which keeps us warm for the first few hours of sleep. We’re hoping to try for the summit tomorrow if weather allows, so we’re turning in early. We’ll let you know how we’re doing tomorrow. RMI Guide JM Gorum

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Mt. Rainier: Okita, Ebeling and Team Reach the Summit!

June 12, 2018

Posted by: Brent Okita, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Chris Ebeling reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Brent reported clear skies and light winds of about 20 mph. The team will descent back to camp Muir for their final night on the mountain. Congratulations to today's team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What an amazing accomplishment. Congratulations to the entire team. Way to go Gwen and Elizabeth!

Love from the Mathewson/Niehaus Family

Posted by: Lori Mathewson Niehaus on 6/12/2018 at 10:59 am

Congrats to Brent and his team - You led a trip last year when Andy Renner attempted Rainer and he and your colleagues will try again tomorrow (6/13) and I hope that you (literally!) paved the way for his group to make it all the way. Best wishes

Posted by: Stephanie Renner on 6/12/2018 at 10:03 am

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Gokyo Trek: Elias and Team Explore Namche

October 20, 2017

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Gokyo Trek

Namaste from Namche, We enjoyed a day in this neurological center that is Namche, old trading town, when the Sherpa from Tibet came to the southern slop of the Himalaya to commerce their goods. In order to allow for acclimating, we took a good walk on the main trail of the Everest Base Camp route, to get astonishing views of the range, with Ama Dablam as the most imposing figure. A small museum with some Sherpa artifacts, as well as graphical descriptions of their traditions provided great education about this old mountain culture. We ventured for lunch away from the tourists, and chose a local "Chia Pasal" where true locals eat their dahl bhat and momos (for a fraction of the price and double the smiles) The afternoon was spent resting, and simply enjoying being in the heart of the biggest mountain range of the world. Stay tuned for more. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Mt. Shuksan: Frank & Team Check in After Training Day

August 13, 2017

Posted by: Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Good afternoon. This is Eric Frank calling in from the south side of Mount Shuksan. Just sitting in my tent here listening to the rain pitter patter on the outside. On the plus side, I would assume that most of the smoke from British Columbia has been knocked down. It's been raining here since around 11 p.m. last night. It rained hard throughout the night, well into the early afternoon today. We were able to get outside to do a little bit of training- built some anchors, did some crevasse rescue before the cold and heavy wet mist chased us back into our tents. So we have our fingers crossed that things are going to be looking up for tomorrow. Right now we're just getting prepared, doing our part to get ready to go climb Mount Shuksan in the morning. So hopefully we will be calling you mid-morning with a report from the top and hopefully some better weather. Looking forward to it then. Bye. RMI Guide Eric Frank

RMI Guide Eric Frank calls in from Mount Shuksan.

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Stretch Their Legs and Lungs

June 11, 2017

Posted by: Tyler Jones, JM Gorum, Bryan Mazaika

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 10, 2017 Hello from 14 Camp. We had a mix of bagels, cheese and Cheerios with a side of bacon for breakfast. Then we suited up for a walk in calmer and warmer weather than what we have be experiencing lately. Our team climbed to the base of the fixed ropes to clear our minds from tent time. We also were glad to stretch the legs and lungs! Our vibe is lifted for the future. The forecast for tomorrow is looking like new strong wind with snow. The weather could turn the corner early next week. The team is doing every well and poised to go higher soon. RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Summit and Return to 17 Camp

June 2, 2017

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,310'

June 1, 2017 Hey there - this is Pete Van Deventer calling. We're back at 17 Camp happy to report after a successful summit day on Denali. We had really perfect weather, couldn't have gotten much better. We had 4 mile an hour kind of chilly breeze this morning, but by the time we got to the Football Field things we're getting pretty warm. It couldn't have been clearer or calmer up on the summit ridge. We got out out of camp nice an early today right after Mike Walter's team, and had Denali mostly to ourselves for a lot of the day. It was great, we are all back at camp and everybody's fed and happy and tucked into bed. The goal tomorrow will be the move back down where the air is thicker and temperatures are warmer. Ideally 11,000' or 7,600' and be at Base Camp shortly thereafter. Maybe Saturday morning to try to catch some flights out. So everybody is heading home, everybody is well and everybody is excited after a great day. We got some good photos and we really can't ask for much more than what we got today. Alright - we'll talk soon. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calls from 17,000 ft Camp after a successful summit day.

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

From down under great climbing Mark and Rachel and fellow mountaineers on achieving your goal. Heartfelt thanks to Pete, Jess and Jenny for making it possible and particularly for maintaining your morale during that long delay at14K. In our eyes you three are real heroes. Hope weather holds fo a safe and enjoyable decent then celebrate. With our best wishes for a safe journey home. Phil and Vonne.

Posted by: Philip and Vonne Calvert on 6/2/2017 at 3:07 pm

Awesome job!! Congrats JT, Peter, Yon, Rags, Rachel, Mark, Pete, Jenny, Jesse on getting the summit. What an accomplishment. I’m there with you in spirit. Safe travels down. Looking forward to seeing your photos.

Joel

Posted by: Joel on 6/2/2017 at 10:25 am

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Denali - West Buttress Expedition: Beren and Team Arrive in Talkeetna

June 1, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

June 1, 2016 - 9:20 am PDT Time for this year's pilgrimage to the Great One! Our team is assembled and we are about to hit the orientation from the Park Service before diving into the hangar to rig our equipment for the upcoming adventure! RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team

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Prayers continue to be with you on your adventure and we are excited to be a part of it even if it is through cheering and watching your progress through the safety of our computer screen…lol. Many hugs and cheers to you Jason!!!!

Posted by: The Broek Gang Sandon and Sharlet and Kids on 6/7/2016 at 4:29 pm

Just thinking of you Daddy. Hope all is well. Everybody asks about you. We continue to pray for a safe climb. Love you! Have fun! Mamma

Posted by: Isty and kids on 6/4/2016 at 9:18 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen and Team Rest at 14,000’ Camp

June 21, 2015

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 20, 2015 10:01 pm PT It started snowing when we went to bed last night and it did not stop until we woke up this morning. We have made such good time so far, so we decided to take a weather/rest day today. It turned out to be a great decision since it turned into a whiteout and began snowing again by midday. We made a half day out of making breakfast quesadillas and hanging out in the cook tent. I am not really sure where the rest of the day went! We are sitting in the sun as of dinner, so I expect we will be able execute our cache plan tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We love the blog updates! Happy Father’s Day to Matt Krull. We miss you buddy and we’re sure your family does as well. Keep up the great work and we look forward to seeing pictures of you on top of the highest mountain peak in North America!

Posted by: Scott & Scott on 6/22/2015 at 9:28 am

Sounds like it’s been smooth sailing so far! I’m giving updates all the time, thanks for the blog. No snow in the Midwest—hot first day of summer, and the corn is as tall as I am! Tell Brian I planted more, weeded the garden, and gave the critters all some love. You’ve got fans in Iowa, Texas, Hawaii, Japan—you are all in our thoughts. Judi

Posted by: Judi on 6/21/2015 at 7:00 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Preparing for Summit Bid Tomorrow

June 14, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 16,900'

Sunday June 14th 8:20 pm PT Hello, this is RMI Guide, Eric Frank, calling in from Alaska. I'm at the Balcony Camp on the Upper West Rib, here at 16,900 feet. Our team climbed up here today from our 14,000-foot camp. We're doing great. It is about 7:20 PM, Alaska time. We have tents up and we are settling into dinner. It's beautiful evening out here. We can see several hundred miles from our vantage all throughout the Alaska Range and into the tundra to the north, so we're doing well. We anticipate great weather tomorrow. RMI Guide Eric Frank

RMI Guide Eric Frank calls in from Balcony Camp.

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I am glad to see that our prayers cleared the weather for you. May God be with you all during your climb. I can not wait until I am able to climb this mountain sometime in the next couple of years or so.

Thanks

Posted by: Kevin Stone on 6/16/2015 at 8:16 am

Kim- it’s me again- just wanted to give you a heads up that dad has been waiting for you on the summit- so act totally surprised when you see him- he brought a stuffed colobus monkey with him so you won’t be able to miss him!
Xoxoxo
Lora

Posted by: Lora on 6/15/2015 at 11:37 am

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