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Expedition Skills Seminar - Peru: Davis and Team Arrive in Huaraz

Hello from Huaraz!

After a few years of hiatus due to the pandemic, we were welcomed back graciously into the beautiful country of Peru. It was such a treat to again be able to enjoy the bustling coastal grandeur of Lima while sampling delicious ceviche and other fine Peruvian cuisine last night after some long flights. We began our eight-hour bus ride to the climbing and trekking hamlet of Huaraz promptly this morning after breakfast and were greeted by the always friendly staff at the Andino Club Hotel. A true climbers hotel with some Swiss roots. It was so great to catch up with our local partner and IFMGA guide Peter as well as some of the other support staff with whom we hadn't seen in a few years. Tired from multiple days of travel via busses and planes we quickly enjoyed dinner and got settled into our rooms for a full nights rest where we will begin acclimatizing by sleeping at 10,000'.

Buenas Noches! 

RMI Guides Alan Davis, Emma Lyddan and Team

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Mt. Elbrus: North Side Team Safely Descends The Mountain

First and foremost, we are safely off of Mt. Elbrus, and back in Kislovodsk! The last 36 hours have gone by in a rush to be sure. We woke yesterday to very light winds and clear skies all around us for the first time in several days. All indications were that it was a perfect summit day, so we rallied the troops, crammed down breakfast, and readied our summit kits for a big day. By 8:45, it was time to rope up and start walking. The first section of the climbing route follows the natural contours of the bowl between summits (Mt Elbrus has two summits, the west about 40 ft higher than the east) to the saddle that splits them. We found nice, firm cramponing conditions on the wind buffed snow, and the team moved very well. After three hours we had gained the saddle and our climbing route merged with that of the South side. As we climbed a steep pitch out of the saddle we passed many teams already descending. Seven hundred feet brought us to the summit ridge, a broad, flat stretch that leads to the very tippy top. Here the wind increased, reddening our cheeks and causing us to pull up our buffs and tuck deeper into our hoods. After five hours of steady climbing, our rope teams made the final steps to the top of Europe. Jeff had 5 summits of Mt. Elbrus under his belt, and despite the wind, this one was the warmest and nicest by far. After ample time for photographs and enjoying the moment, we bid adieu to the summit and headed for camp. The wind quickly died, but the cumulus clouds that were beginning to rise in all directions caught our attention. It was a short trip to retrace our tracks to camp, and once there, a poll of the group showed unanimous support for packing everything and continuing to Camp 1. Despite tired legs, thirsty throats and hungry bellies, none wanted to endure any incoming weather at Lenz Rocks. So with a bit more suffering. We descended another 3,000 feet to the relative comfort of Camp 1, ate dinner and called it a big day well done. This morning we packed all of our gear one last time, and descended the trail, with wildflowers and views aplenty to base camp. Just like clockwork (not always the case here in Russia) the WAS vans that carry us to and from base camp rolled in just a few moments after us. We hurriedly packed our duffles and jumped inside as the drivers became more agitated about the prospect of rain. We made the river crossing and up the steepest, slickest section of road before the rain, quickly turning to hail (a fitting send off from the mountain). The drive went smoothly, as eyelids took turns closing, and we now find ourselves back in Kislovodsk, showered, and ready for a big meal. It was a bit bittersweet to drive away from the mountain, or biggest objective now complete, but our trip is not over: we have tomorrow to explore this Caucus region town before heading on to St. Petersburg to enjoy the rich history and all that it has to offer. We'll continue to update you on our adventures. Thanks for reading, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jeff Martin, and team
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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Summit!

Success! The Four-Day climb led by Taylor Bickford and Seth Burns reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning around 7:45am. They enjoyed a good climbing route and weather during their ascent.

The team will be back at Basecamp this afternoon to celebrate their hard work!

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Denali Expedition: Frank and Team Settle in at 14,000’ Camp

Saturday, May 29, 2021 - 11:00am PT

After tucking in last night to blowing winds and less than optimal conditions, we awoke this morning to bluebird skies and generally improved weather. The team wasted no time digging out our camp and getting settled in to 14k life. Most of the day was spent making a quick lap to pick up our cache by Windy Corner and building snow block walls around the tents.The day ended shortly after 8pm.

Here in Genet Basin the temps drop quickly once the sun falls behind the nearest ridgeline and we all retreated to our tents to climb into our sleeping bags. 

Thanks for following along with us!

RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team

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Rob, the expedition photos are incredible. Excited for you!  What an awesome challenge and reward! I’m at sea level battling 74 degree nights, 84 days, 12-17mph wind off the Gulf, Mosquitos like hummingbirds and prepping for Indy 500. Can’t wait to hear about your climb! Hold Fast!  TS

Posted by: Thomas Stephens on 5/30/2021 at 7:02 am

Sounds like you battled a frigid night. Love hearing about your journey. One step at a time!
Love,
Santanas

Posted by: Allison Santana on 5/29/2021 at 6:13 pm


Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Training on the Khumbu Glacier

The tents began flapping in the wind mid way through the night last night. Soon snow was peppering the tents, a light patter against the walls as the flakes blew against the tent. Occasionally a faint rumble could be heard over the storm as thunder echoed up from further down the valley. By morning 2 - 3 inches of snow covered Base Camp and the winds continued to blow light flurries of snow through camp. Sitting around the table we could hear the roar of the winds high above blowing up the Khumbu Valley and through Lho La Pass into Tibet. The sun poked through on occasion, only to be obscured again by the quickly moving clouds. It was a nice morning to sit in the dining tent and enjoy a second cup of tea and the fresh coffee we brewed up. By mid morning the weather calmed a bit and we geared up, donning our climbing boots, crampons, harnesses, and helmets and set off from Base Camp into the Khumbu Glacier for some technical training in order to prepare for our upcoming climb of Island Peak. The Khumbu Glacier is a wild looking glacier here at Base Camp: the weight of the glacier flowing down from the Ice fall causes the surface to buckle upwards in large pressure ridges - fins of ice that run horizontally across the glacier, sometimes 20 - 30' high. Between the pressure ridges the surface has melted and refrozen into large expanses of flat ice. Walking into the glacier, we wound our way between the fins of ice, getting comfortable walking with crampons on the firm glacial ice. Once everyone was comfortable moving across the uneven terrain with our crampons, we headed over to the fixed practice ropes that Kala, our lead Sherpa, and I put up this morning. Using the side of one of the towering pressure ridges, we climbed up and down its side practicing using our ascenders on the 50 degree ice, refining our transitions past anchors points, and then rappelling back down. The team quickly took to the techniques and soon all were moving fluidly up and back down. As we practiced the winds and snow picked up again and we found our way back out of the glacier and to camp where we got out of the elements. We spent the rest of the afternoon lounging here at Base Camp, playing cards in the dining tent and reading. The weather is still blustery but seems to be settling out. We are all hoping for clear skies for our hike back down the valley to Pheriche tomorrow. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

On The Map

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Hey Mom and Dad,

I’m so proud of y’all. I have uploaded the pictures from the blog to facebook and there have been so many people amazed with what y’all are doing. I hope you know that you have so much support and praise from so many people. You are officially the coolest parents I know :) I’m so excited to see you in less than 2 weeks!! I love you so much! Love, Chelsea.

Posted by: Chelsea on 4/8/2011 at 11:15 am

Mark- I hope you had a great birthday!  The cake looks good as does the beard~

Best to you and Karen.

Sean

Posted by: Sean W on 4/4/2011 at 9:02 am


Mt. Rainier: June 2nd Summit!

The Four Day Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at about 7:45 am PDT. RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Josh McDowell lead their teams up the Ingraham Direct Route on what Dave Hahn described as a near perfect climbing day. They crossed the crater to reach Columbia Crest, where they celebrated with high fives and selfies before starting their descent.

Congratulations Team! 

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It’s been an honor and pleasure climbing with you all yesterday. I will never forget the moment. Thank you again Dave, Tom, Cal, Team B guides, and all the climbers.

Posted by: Indradjit Harbani (Aji) on 6/3/2023 at 5:07 pm

Great job, everyone!

Posted by: Steven Danskine on 6/3/2023 at 2:40 pm


Torres del Paine: King & Team Hikes Up the French Valley

Today we had a 14-mile day from Paine Grande into the French Valley. The trail was mostly a goat path into the valley with some clouds and light rain overhead. Since we are on the “W” portion of the trek, the trails have become more crowded but nothing like a busy summer day on the Muir snowfield. The views from the French valley include a large alpine cirque with massive granite spires and peaks encircling a dense forest. The clouds kept things cool, the rain made for wet rocks to focus our footwork on and the 15 miles after 7 days of walking made for sore feet. We are at Frances Domes camp for the night. The salmon and lentils were delicious, the pisco sours very drinkable. Tomorrow we’ll hike to Torres central and spend the night, which sets us up for a morning day hike to the Torres on Wednesday. It’s windy and a little rainy, into our wood stove heated domes we go. Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King

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Happy Valentine’s Day everyone!

Posted by: Lana Green on 2/14/2022 at 5:08 pm


Mt. Baker: RMI Team Reaches Summit via Easton Glacier

RMI's Mt. Baker Easton Glacier August 16 - 18 team reached the summit of Mt. Baker this morning led by RMI Guides Grayson Swingle, David Price and Tatum Whatford.  Grayson and team reached the summit at 7 AM PT and reported that it was a beautiful morning to be on the mountain.  Once they have taken all the hero shot photos and enjoyed the views, they will return to camp to breakdown tents and repack.  They will continue out to the trail head later today completing their program.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

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Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Weather Day

Sunday, August 11, 2019, 10:36 PM PST Our hope was that the forecast was overly aggressive in its wind prediction, but early in the morning, long before the sun rose, wind started to buffet our huts. As the morning wore on, the wind in camp wasn't much more than a touch unpleasant, but the evidence of its strength up higher rated in the plumes if snow ripping across the glacier above. It wasn't a difficult decision to stay in camp today in the comfort of our huts and try again tomorrow, when the forecast has the winds dropping to a manageable level. We passed the time with a lot of reading, napping, and some light core strength. Hopefully we see the forecasted change tomorrow! RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Mike Uchal, and team "we have collectively read an entire library"

On The Map

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Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Waiting to Fly

June 2, 2023, 11:39 am PDT

Yesterday we woke up to clear skies, but the clouds and snow quickly made their way in. A few planes snuck in, but we were unable to make our way back to Talkeetna. So we sit, and continue to wait for our weather window to get off the Kahiltna Glacier and return to Talkeetna, beds, and showers. Until then we keep eating our snacks and watching movies.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and team

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