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Mt. Everest: Dave Hahn Calls in from Everest Base Camp

Hey this is Dave Hahn calling from Everest Base Camp. Today was another difficult day dealing with the tragedies from yesterday. The team members stayed in Base Camp today, it was cloudy, a little snowy, a little cold. Three of our Sherpa team, Tshering, Lam Babu and Pemba helicoptered up, with others, to the accident site to continue the difficult and dangerous work that some of us were engaged in yesterday of well, body retrieval at this point. There are still three missing, is my understanding, and they were not able to find those three. But they did a great job in going up and working hard and trying to make a difference and we are very proud of them. The team is well, obviously, it is a difficult situation, everything is somewhat in limbo. There is word of a number of teams that are pulling the plug and are not going to climb. But we will see how these next couple of days play out. I told my climbers to be ready for anything. We will keep you informed. Bye now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Everest Base Camp.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Happy Easter to all. bc

Posted by: bc on 4/20/2014 at 7:19 am

Hi

Good day, I learnt about the tragedy few days ago. Even though I have never been to Nepal, I have always interest in the Everest. Please stay strong. My thoughts and prayers with the sherpas and their families.

Best regards
Kok Wai
Singapore

Posted by: Kok Wai on 4/20/2014 at 6:25 am


Machu Picchu: Team Trek into Soraypampa and Sleep High

 We awoke hours before the sun was up to begin our journey to the start of the Salkantay trek. Hours of winding Peruvian roads and a beautiful sunrise later, we arrived!

Our local guides and cooks made us a fantastic breakfast to start our trek off right. The first part of the trek began with a gradual uphill that gave us phenomenal views of the valley below. We followed an impressive trail alongside an aqueduct for several miles until we got to the town of Soraypampa. Here, we enjoyed the last porcelain throne that we would see for several days. Leaving town, we headed up a valley with soaring views of both, Tucarhuay and Salkantay peaks! The gradual ascent up the valley was difficult but rewarding as the beauty around us only increased as we got higher. Camp was graciously already set up for us by our guides and their assistants. We enjoyed a great dinner, drank cocoa, tea, and did our best to adjust to our new altitude of 14,300 feet. It was the highest most of us had ever slept, and it looked to be a cold night. Thankfully the cooks made us all wawa's (bladders of hot water) for bedtime!

Goodnight from the Andes!

Mike, Jack, and the team

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Mt. Rainier: Kautz Seminar Reaches 12,500’

The Kautz Seminar, led by RMI Guide James Bealer, was stopped by route conditions this morning.  They reached 12,500' before making the call to abort their ascent.  The team is currently working their way back to high camp.  They have had a full week of training and will spend one more night on the mountain before concluding their program tomorrow.

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Denali Expedition: Bond & Team Move to 17,000ft High Camp

Tuesday, June 28, 2022 - 11:42 pm PT

Let me tell you about the pain cave. It’s made of self doubt stalactites and poorly spaced foot buckets where you think you have found purchase with your crampons and yet they slide again and again. It’s got stalagmites forged from the tears of mountaineers who came before you. It’s a fearsome place indeed. But we are a powerful team and WE CARRY ON.

That is right readers, this intrepid group scaled the hairy fixed lines once again to move our camp to 17,000' today. What stroke of luck to have such incredible weather for our move day. To be traversing the airy Washburns’s Thumb in nothing but a sun hoody is the stuff of dreams. Our RMI guides continue to provide important services such as lying to us about the steepness of the grade on the trail we cannot yet see, and assurances that today will likely be considered a harder day than our planned summit day tomorrow. Andy, keep up the bluffing, it’s working like a charm.

Todays highlights included Steve’s reunion with his hula hoop, the view from 17 Camp when we finally arrived, the fact that most of us are higher than we’ve ever been, and the team spirit embodied by Yann who selflessly swung into action helping his teammates set up tents when they arrived exhausted. There was also the traffic on the running belays which was reminiscent of Seattle’s I-5, but really, who can complain when it’s a fraction of the normal peak season crowd.

With a bit of rest this evening, some much needed calories (an entire mountain house plus snacks), and a continuous deep well of motivation to draw from, we sit eager with anticipation for tomorrow - the big day!!!

RMI Climber Holly

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Love that you guys are embracing the suck! Go team, Go!

Posted by: Steve Polovick on 6/30/2022 at 7:01 am

Team Bond you’re crushing it! Keep pushing through the pain and moving forward. Looking forward to hearing about you conquering summit day.

Posted by: Cortney on 6/29/2022 at 5:53 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Waiting

It is the middle of May and the wait for fine weather on Mount Everest continues. Many climbers have started up the mountain so as to be in position should a break come in the next few days. A combination team of Sherpas from several expeditions is bound for the South Col now, hoping to be able to fix the ropes to the top when the wind dies. Our team is obviously hoping that the fixing effort succeeds and that those lining up for a first shot at the top get their shot. We aren't eager to be in that first run though. The weather window is forecasted to be short and the climbers are many, so we will instead take our chances on whatever more substantial break comes afterward. But the waiting is difficult. We are all healthy and feeling strong and we've now been down and resting for some time. We want to climb soon and it is difficult to hold back when others are going for it, but our judgment is that a little more patience is called for to fully accomplish our goals. We are each feeling the frustrations of being in a dead-end valley where the only real outlet is a journey through the Khumbu Icefall. It doesn't make much sense to go through that jumble simply for exercise and so we repeatedly backtrack down the trail toward Gorak Shep, taking on more sensible and vastly safer hiking goals like Kalapathar and Pumori Camp One. Our hope in doing these hikes is that our legs and lungs will be ready for the real thing and that daily hikes will keep our brains from fretting over the wait. It is sometimes a little difficult for us to remember that these 19,000 feet "hikes" in the midst of spectacular peaks and glaciers would be lifetime goals for many and that we are extremely lucky to be living in this place... But of course we are preoccupied with the top vertical mile or so of Mt. Everest right now. Winds are still raking the upper peaks and ridges and temperatures still seem a bit lower than normal for mid-May. Our walks and scrambles on the glacier adjacent to Basecamp reveal slightly less runoff than we'd consider normal. We choose to view this positively in that the Khumbu Icefall won't get up to its full speed while things remain remain cool. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

dave- i had the pleasure of you serving as my guide in sept 98 on an ascent of Rainier. I wish you good weather, health and most importantly- safety. Suerte amigo!

Posted by: david.mendel on 5/17/2012 at 11:58 am

Have you met my friend Moshi Wilfred from Tanzania yet? He’s probably the tallest guy on the mountain.
Best of health and well-being during your climb.

Posted by: Ellen on 5/17/2012 at 11:00 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Route & Forecast are Looking Better

Hello, this is Dave Hahn calling from Everest Base Camp. We're resting and hiking and we're watching the progress of the weather conditions. It has been snowing a little bit every day and it seems, from what we have been told, that conditions have gotten a little bit better on the upper mountain. There was significant progress yesterday. A team of climbers, sherpas made it to the South Col. The route is fixed all the way to 8,000 meters now. Our sherpa team is going up tomorrow morning up to Camp 2 to check out conditions and see whether it makes sense for them to get on the wall to establish our Camp 3 and Camp 4. There is supposed to be, the next few days, supposed to be calm with continued light snow each day and we are seeing that is a good thing. Then the winds are supposed to come back, the jet stream is supposed to move into the mountains, but briefly, and then we are hoping for a break in conditions after the middle of the month. So it is going to be a little bit of a down time for the climbing team and we are keeping ourselves busy, like I say, with hiking and eating and resting and games. So far so good. Things seemed to have calmed down on Mt. Everest. Bye for now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


Dave Hahn from Everest Base Camp

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hello Dave and Melissa: I just got on your blog a week or so ago and have enjoyed your posts! Wishing the best in climbing for you and certainly hope the conditions start to improve so you can get to your goal: a summitt attempt! Things are good in Seattle and I hope to get on Mt. Rainier a couple times this summer. Then the best part: the Mountain Festival! Hope you’ll both be in attendance again since it’s so good to visit and hear your climbing experiences. My radio station is supposed to be getting in touch with RMI to set things up for another weekend of coverage. Sending good climbing vibes your way, so good luck! Mike Brown

Posted by: Mike Brown on 5/9/2012 at 11:00 pm

Good climbing, David . 
hoped to meet your father and Lisa in Boston at the end of this month but Memorial w/e is not propitious for Ron to drive.  I read about your intrepid hike with Ron in Yosemite.  Remarkable, and so well written.
Regards and Berg Heil from Your distant relative

Hugo

Posted by: Hugo Langshur on 5/9/2012 at 5:56 am


Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Ascend 1,200ft Barranco Wall

We pushed back our wake-up and starting times this morning in order to let a few of the surrounding teams get out on the trail first.  The Barranco Wall has a few tight passages along rock ledges where we’d just as soon miss the traffic jams.  That meant a leisurely pace to rolling out of bed and packing up.  It was cool in the shadow of the mountain though, and a relief -during breakfast- when the sun hit. We marched toward the base of the wall at 9 AM with perhaps a few butterflies in some stomachs as folks wondered how it would all work out.  From below, the Great Barranco Wall looks very much like a Great Wall… intimidating.  But as we started winding up the trail and came to grips with the tricky parts, most began to relax. Our local guides -John, Tom, Naiman and Philibet were at every difficult move, pointing out hand and footholds and managing porter traffic.  Before long we’d cruised past the narrowest ledges and gotten to easier -though still steep- trail sections in the middle of the wall.  There were still a few places requiring both hands on the rock near the top, but then we popped out onto flat ground about 1200 ft higher than where we’d begun.  We took a well-deserved break and snapped a few pictures of the spectacular South Face of Kilimanjaro.  The rest of the walk to Karanga was easy in comparison to the Wall.  Just a few valleys to traverse, and lots of sights to see as much of the lower cloud melted away.  We sat down to lunch in our new camp at 13,100 ft.  The afternoon was a chance for resting and rehydrating.  As the sun set, John -our lead guide- led the team in an impromptu dance session on the concrete heli-pad adjacent to camp.  We sat down to dinner in our well lit dining tent and then came out to another beautiful night scene, this time with the lights of Moshi (the city at Kili’s Southeast corner) spread out far below. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Happy Anniversary, my love. I would do it all again. You make everything better.
Our life of Adventures and Oatmeal is perfect.

Blow me a kiss and then go to bed, tomorrow is going come fast!

So proud of and stoked for you.

John

Posted by: John GILMAN on 8/20/2022 at 7:57 am

You all are amazing!

Posted by: Diana Lowe on 8/19/2022 at 1:01 pm


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Organize Gear in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly!

Wednesday, May 18, 2022 - 11:19 pm PT

Here is the first dispatch from the third RMI Denali team! We are all packed up and ready to fly in the morning. Our team was efficient and prepared today as we organized all the necessary items for a Denali expedition. The weather is beautiful in Talkeetna and we are excited for the climb ahead. 

RMI guides Jackson Breen, Matias Francis, JT Schmitt and team. 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

They’ve got great guides!

Posted by: George Strait on 5/20/2022 at 2:16 pm

Looks like a strong team!!!

Posted by: Anna Budayr on 5/20/2022 at 7:35 am


Mt. Baker: Walter & Team Summit Via the North Ridge!

RMI Guide Mike Walter and team reached the summit of Mt. Baker via its iconic and forbidding North Ridge yesterday. Mike reported 100% team success and fantastic climbing conditions! Today, the team took in their last few views of Mt. Baker before beginning their descent back to the Heliotrope Ridge trail head and the comforts of town. Congratulations to today's team!
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Carstensz Pyramid: Team Almost to Basecamp

The weather is beautiful today and our team is about 3 hours away from Basecamp. After we arrive, we’ll use the rest of the day for training and practice. We may try for the summit as early as tomorrow. Everyone is in good health, strong and excited for the summit attempt. We are presently in a valley where it’s difficult to get a signal but we will do our best to dispatch again soon. RMI Guides Alex Van Steen & Mark Tucker
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Your descriptions are amazing. Marshland at 11000 feet! Good luck, team - be safe and have fun.

Posted by: Mom/Grandma on 7/3/2012 at 5:37 am

excellent…...

Posted by: Rini Indyastuti on 7/3/2012 at 2:33 am

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