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Denali Expedition: Frank and Team Settle in at 14,000’ Camp

Saturday, May 29, 2021 - 11:00am PT

After tucking in last night to blowing winds and less than optimal conditions, we awoke this morning to bluebird skies and generally improved weather. The team wasted no time digging out our camp and getting settled in to 14k life. Most of the day was spent making a quick lap to pick up our cache by Windy Corner and building snow block walls around the tents.The day ended shortly after 8pm.

Here in Genet Basin the temps drop quickly once the sun falls behind the nearest ridgeline and we all retreated to our tents to climb into our sleeping bags. 

Thanks for following along with us!

RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team

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Rob, the expedition photos are incredible. Excited for you!  What an awesome challenge and reward! I’m at sea level battling 74 degree nights, 84 days, 12-17mph wind off the Gulf, Mosquitos like hummingbirds and prepping for Indy 500. Can’t wait to hear about your climb! Hold Fast!  TS

Posted by: Thomas Stephens on 5/30/2021 at 7:02 am

Sounds like you battled a frigid night. Love hearing about your journey. One step at a time!
Love,
Santanas

Posted by: Allison Santana on 5/29/2021 at 6:13 pm


Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Waiting to Fly

June 2, 2023, 11:39 am PDT

Yesterday we woke up to clear skies, but the clouds and snow quickly made their way in. A few planes snuck in, but we were unable to make our way back to Talkeetna. So we sit, and continue to wait for our weather window to get off the Kahiltna Glacier and return to Talkeetna, beds, and showers. Until then we keep eating our snacks and watching movies.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion and team

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Unable to Climb

The Four Day Climb August 3 - 6 was unable to make a summit attempt due to continued rain throughout the night. RMI Guide Nikki Champion reported that rain began at Camp Muir around 10 pm and continued throughout the night. Light rain continued to fall this morning. The teams are planning to leave Camp Muir around 9:30 am heading downhill to Paradise.

We expect them to return to Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

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Being a first-timer, although the trip turned out to be incomplete, took away a couple of things from the experience:

1. Now I know that it is doable and will come back to get to the summit next year
2. The basic training and know-how will be helpful for future activities (thanks to all the guides)

Personally, I thought, although summitting was out of the question due to bad weather, going up to Ingrahm flat was possible in the morning and would have given us some experience regarding rope travel. Not sure, if something else other than the weather was under consideration for this decision not to go to Ingrahm flat

Finally, I plan to come back next year. Would it be possible to get some sort of concession that time due to the fact that we could not do the second part at all this time around?

Thanks

—manoj

 

 

Posted by: Manoj Devasarma on 8/9/2023 at 4:24 pm


Mexico Volcanoes: Waterfall & Team Summit Pico de Orizaba!

Hey, this is Seth checking in from the summit of Pico de Orizaba, tallest mountain in Mexico, fourth tallest in North America. Got the whole team with me. We've got a beautiful day. No wind up here, sunny skies, everybody's psyched. We're going to take a bunch of photos. Do some high fivin' then we'll check in once we peel back. Here's the shouts from everybody. [Team shouts!] They are very excited. It's just hard to breathe up here. We'll check in from high camp. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall


RMI Guide Seth Waterfall calls from the Orizaba summit

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: June 19th Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by Mark Falender and Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported light winds, few clouds, and very pleasant weather with the sun peaking through every now and then. The teams are now en route back to RMI Basecamp in Ashford. Mike Haugen and the Expedition Skills Seminar team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Kautz Route and reported similar conditions. They are headed back to their high camp at 10,800' feet and will finish their week of training on the mountain and return to RMI Basecamp tomorrow afternoon. Congratulations to today's teams!
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I was part of the 4 day summit climb on June 19 with Mark & Solveig.  What a magical day it was and I feel extremely privileged to have been part of it. Thank you guys so very much for your guidance, expertise and support.  This has truly been one of the greatest challenges of my life and I will cherish it for a long time to come.  I have taken so much away from this experience - the challenges that this mountain presents, especially the Cleaver, had me digging deeper than I ever had to attain success.  Mark, Solveig, Sean, Geoff and Levi - you guys are all rock stars!!  RMI can and should be very proud of you.  I was sad to see the program end.  Hopefully, I will link up again with Mark for a climb up Grand Teton!

Thank you again very much!
Ben Elliott

Posted by: Ben Elliott on 6/21/2012 at 2:19 am

Hey Hans .......  GREAT JOB.  Blue sky’s 365 !!!  Gotta love it.  xoxo Love and hugs greta

Posted by: greta hardwick on 6/20/2012 at 9:18 pm


Everest BC Trek & Lobuche Climb: Dale & Team Enjoy Beautiful Himalaya Views to Gorak Shep

High winds blew cold snow in our faces the entire three-hour trek to Gorak Shep today. Buffs up, gortex layers on, and hands balled up in our gloves gave us some protection but it still leads to chapped cheeks and tired climbers. We met up with the other RMI team, led by the famous Casey Grom, for some tea and jokes along the trail. They are heading down to the land of hot showers and warm evenings as we head up to Everest Base Camp tomorrow. Some of our team took the afternoon to rest and relax while others braved the winds and hiked up Kala Patar (18,500 feet). We had beautiful views of Nuptse and the Khumbu Glacier but Everest didn't want to show its true height to us today. Hopefully this wind slows and we have an easier trek into basecamp tomorrow. RMI Guide Christina Dale
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Mt. Rainier:  Teams on Top via Emmons and Disappointment Cleaver Routes

The Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Garrett Stevens and Win Whittaker reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The teams reported cool temperatures, winds 20 mph and clear skies. They began their descent from the summit at 7 am en route to Camp Muir. They will take a short break there before continuing down to Paradise. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens also made their summit push today. Geoff and team were also beginning their descent from the crater rim around 7 am. They will return to Camp Schurman for their final night on the mountain. Congratulations to today's climbers!
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Way to go Pete Lynn!  Want to hear all about it.  Tracked all the way up.

Posted by: Bill Adkins on 8/1/2014 at 6:43 pm

Hi Arthur and Owen with team Emmons. Have been following you all the way to the summit (well at least since 6.00am!). That was so awesome to watch. Congrats to the whole team and a special thanks to whoever packed the GPS tracker! Can’t wait to hear all about it. Love M & D

Posted by: Shirley Eigenbrot on 7/31/2014 at 6:05 pm


RMI Guide Linden Mallory Featured by Leave No Trace

RMI Guides Linden Mallory and Alex Van Steen have been working with Leave No Trace for the past several years helping complete a new Mountaineering Curriculum for Leave No Trace. The curriculum was originally developed by Peter Whittaker, RMI, Leave No Trace, and several land managers and land users. It will soon be available to the broader mountaineering community through Leave No Trace. Linden was interviewed in Leave No Trace's latest Newsletter discussing the role of Leave No Trace ethics in the mountains and in his guiding career. Check out the story here!
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Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Head into the Mountains

Pickled and fresh cut veggies, mouth watering empanadas, chicken thighs that fall off the bone. I think the Bolivia team assumed our days of feasting on this trip were over, but no! Today we ventured into the mountains under cloudy, threatening skies, accompanied by our cook staff. Fortunately we made it into base camp before it started to rain. Once the tents were up, our kitchen team treated us to a three course dinner where we laughed and told stories, dragging the meal out to two full hours. After dinner, we walked outside to find that the clouds had lifted and we could see the Southern Cross stretched across the sky. Life at 15k ain't so bad!! RMI Guide Eric Frank
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Have fun and stay safe out there boys, wish I was climbing with you again this summer!  Trip looks like a blast!

Posted by: Lowry on 5/25/2017 at 3:40 pm

Hey Mattie and team Eric—-all us slugs back at the office are rooting for you!  Still expect a picture of you wearing a bowler hat!

Posted by: Steve on 5/25/2017 at 1:27 pm


Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Making Great Progress

We had a great day yesterday, and moved our camp up to 11,200'. The weather was perfect for climbing, and we made swift progress up the Kahiltna Glacier towards Kahiltna Pass. We arrived in camp and spent a few hours establishing our camp, as we will be staying here for a few nights. With all of our gear moved in to the 11,200' camp, we are in a great position, and we will spend the day resting and acclimating. We are planning to carry a cache of supplies up to Windy Corner (13,600') tomorrow, so we're looking forward to a lazy day today. The weather looks great the next few days, and our team is feeling strong. We're right on schedule as we start staging on to the upper mountain. We'll be in touch again soon. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Happy Belated Birthday Carl!  We all hope you’re having lots of fun.  Hope it’s not too cold.

Posted by: Crystal on 5/17/2012 at 8:50 am

Bernie, don’t slow the team down. Steak & Lobs part II waiting for you when you get back to NYC.

Posted by: Tom Hogan on 5/17/2012 at 8:49 am

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