This morning around 12:30 we woke for our Ixta summit day. We had a relatively clear sky above us with a bright moon, but out to the east was a small cloud bank with some lightening radiating through the clouds. We got ready to climb since the storm looked to be moving away from the mountain.
As we approached our first break the storm clouds began to creep our way with the lightening increasing in the distance. The guides turned the group around and made the call to pack up camp and head to lower elevations. The team responded and broke camp quickly, transitioning into downhill mode. Carrying heavy packs in rocky terrain at night isn't easy and we all arrived tired but thankful to not be up at Ixta's high camp.
Upon reaching the trail-head all signs of the storm had disappeared, clear above visibility unlimited. Some frustration and confusion pulsed through the team members and guides. When you're in the mountains it is important to take the information available to you and make a conservative decision. Sometimes the storm rolls in and sometimes the skies clear.
We spent the morning resting and sorting gear for the next few days. Like clockwork, the skies turned grey, hail fell and thunder rolled high on Ixta. Our shuttles arrived to take us to Puebla for the next 2 nights.
The Team will enjoy a day off in the historic district and then we are off for Orizaba, the 3rd highest peak in North America.
RMI Guide Mike King & Team
RMI Guide Jake Beren and team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys route this morning around 10 am PT. Jake reported clear skies with a light layer of clouds below and light winds. The team enjoyed some time on the summit today all on their own, although the route was busy they were on the summit alone. The team safely returned to high camp where they will spend their final night of the trip. Tomorrow morning they will hike out to the trail head.
Congratulations to today's Mt. Shuksan Team!
Hi from Huaraz!
The team united in the morning at our Lima Hotel, and shortly after, we jumped on our private bus, en route to Huaraz. From hours along the Pacific Coast, to the extensive land lots covered on drying chili peppers and corn, being baked by the sun, a visually stimulating drive greeted us as we started to go up the Conococha Pass. With 1 1/2 hours left of our bus drive, we got a first glimpse of the Cordillera Blanca, with Huascarán reigning amongst the clouds, and the Pastoruri Massif a mere stone throw from our "bladder emptying" stop in the 14K ft vicinity, right at dusk (yep, it's winter here, and it gets dark early).
We met Peter, our local outfitter and third guide completing the guide team. Dinner and bed time. All is great so far!!!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
June 7, 2016 - 7:24 pm PT
The team continues to do well here at Denali's 11K Camp. We took an early jaunt down to our cache to get reunited with our extra snacks. Our trail breaking yesterday served us well and we cruised out and back with very good style. Once back, we took an "active rest day," building walls to fortify camp and reviewing some mountaineering techniques. If the weather holds, we will try to cache higher on the mountain tomorrow. Wish us luck!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Glad to hear you are progressing up the mountain safely! I’m also glad you can hear about Swiftey’s bladder issues from high altitudes! Be safe, we’re excited for you!
Posted by: Isty's walking partner on 6/8/2016 at 10:22 pm
Hi, Jason! Love the photos that are posted. Keep on climbing; stay warm and safe. So glad you are living your dream.
Sunday, May 8, 2016 - 9:39 p.m. PDT
Today the team learned that not everyday can be blue skies filled with unicorns. We woke early this morning, fighting the temptation to stay in our warm cocoons, to a complete whiteout. Everything that came in contact with the atmosphere grew a layer of frost overnight and we could barely see more than 10 feet in front of us. But we brewed up, ate a quick breakfast, and began the waiting game. We would need full VFR (visual flight rule) conditions to venture onto Kahiltna Dome but alas the weather never improved. After some tent time the team went out to investigate some ice fall debris fallen from the east face for some classroom sessions. The biggest block, close to the size of a two-car garage, provided some fun ice climbing routes. We hope to wake up tomorrow to better weather in hopes of giving the Dome one last shot before heading back down stream.
Goodnight from the great white north!
RMI Guides Leon Davis and Mike King and team
Aagh shame, Rogan, but you might as well experience the good as well as the bad. Pity you missed the unicorns . At least you have team leaders who can make the best of the weather to teach you other things in the classroom sessions. Just keep happy and warm.
Lots of love and hugs, mom xx
Posted by: Daphne Carew on 5/10/2016 at 2:09 am
Hi Dave - Hope all is well and the white out is over. Keep staying safe!
Love Cathy and Nick
Hi everyone,
We woke early to catch a mule ride across the Vacas River. A few chose to walk across the icy water, which felt good on sore feet from the two previous days of walking.
We enjoyed spectacular views of Aconcagua with snow wisps off the top of the Polish Glacier near the summit.
The team is resting after gaining 3,000+ feet and adjusting to the air at base camp. We will rest tomorrow and prepare for our first round of moving food and gear to Camp 1 on Saturday.
Look for a message from the entire team tomorrow as it will be Christmas.
RMI Guide Mike King
Merry Christmas Bob! Everyone here at BNSF in Fort Worth is wishing you well. Hope you had a good trek into base camp. Say “Hi” to J.J. when you see him from the rest of our team in Texas. Good luck with your carries to the higher camps and hope you get good weather. God knows we’ve seen good and bad on the big mountains. We all can’t wait until you get back in January. Again, good luck and be safe.
Posted by: Rick & Mary Kay Knutson on 12/25/2015 at 10:05 am
Merry Christmas Michael! Headed to Bachelor for X-country with Abby. Wish you were here at the lower altitude! XXOO Wendy & Larry
It poured rain all night. It was still pouring this morning when we woke up. It took us awhile to work up the courage to get out of our tents and pack up but we did it. We packed our gear and booked it down the trail to find somewhere a little less wet. Now we are back in town, still soaking wet, but oh so happy to know we can finally start getting dry. Despite the soggy finish to our trip, we had a great time training on Mt. Shuksan.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team
The Mt. Elbrus team had an amazing day hiking on Peak Cheget. It was sunny all day...don't take our word for it...check out the video!!!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
...And hello again from "Arwaycoccha" Camp, aka BC, for climbers. We just returned from Moraine Camp, where we went this morning for a carry and acclimatization hike. Covering the 800m of elevation, that rise straight up from camp, was nothing out of the ordinary for the team. Hardware, fuel and some food is already waiting for us when we start the move towards the top. We have been able to ditch the weather the last couple days, and only hope we can continue to do so, unless the Gods of Meteorology do it for us, and we can start to move under clear skies. We're going to start our "chilling" program for the next 40 hours; we'll let you know how that goes.
RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team
K—Told ya I would post!!!!....Ok I like BC, much easier to pronounce and remember. What’s up with the weather? Missed your call, but I will have a phone near me at 2 PM ET. Any good pics or is the cloud coverage tough? I know, you need a weatherman to send you a pic!!!! Be safe and have fun!!!! M
The team showed up to play and brought their A game today. Today we made our way further up the mountain carrying a load up to Camp 1. We piled our gear under a rock, breathed in the thinning air at 16,200' and then strolled on back down to the comforts of basecamp where juice and snacks awaited. Everyone did a fantastic job. Our team looked strong and motivated. This is going to be a good climb. After a hard day's work, we are looking forward to our rest tomorrow which is also our last day at basecamp.
Goodnight all,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
glad everyone returned safely, climbing acancagua with RMI in january and hope to summit, but hope to return home even more
Posted by: Dave Folsom on 11/12/2016 at 7:07 pm
Bummer…Disappointed for you…Enjoy the town…Next mtn please…Waltero
Posted by: Walter Glover on 10/20/2016 at 3:36 am
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