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Posted by: Bryan Mazaika, Jack Delaney, Emma Lyddan, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team stood on the summit of Mt. Rainier at 10:15 am today. The high winds from yesterday and overnight calmed in the early hours, it was cold, so the team waited for the temperatures to warm before starting their summit attempt. The waiting paid off and the team had a clear beautiful summit day via the Emmons Glacier. They will spend the last night on the mountain training, before returning to Ashford Basecamp tomorrow afternoon.
Congratulations Team!
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Erika Birkeland, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Tuesday, May 24, 2022 - 11:32 pm PT
Things were pretty perfect this morning to take a burn on the fixed lines. When we move to 17,000' Camp, it will be with just the essentials. We'll leave luxury items, switch from burritos to freeze dried meals, and go with the plan to get the job done and get back down to thicker air. Thus, there really isn't much that we can cache between here and 17,000'. Instead of caching, our goal was to climb to to higher altitude to keep the acclimatization process progressing, and to get a chance to see the fixed lines without heavy packs. Our packs were light, the sky was clear, and conditions generally calm. We had a wonderful climb up to 16,200', spent a few minutes enjoying the views, then headed back down.
The fixed lines often spark some anxiety: how hard are they, how steep, we can't stop and take a break?!? After a practice run on them those nerves were quelled. Everybody was happy to get a chance with light packs and feel ready to go again, when we move to 17,000' Camp for the summit push. Seems that there is a bit of wind up high the next couple of days so we'll likely wait that out, and then hit the go button when things calm down again. So rest day tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and team
Posted by: Pepper Dee
Categories: Guide News Guide Grant
My second mock lead on the course tackled an aesthetic, rambling three pitch climb on the Wind Tower. I had done the climb before, but had never been responsible for three other mock-climbers. I found myself doing nearly everything differently with my mock-climbers in tow--positioning my climbers out of the way of loose rock, breaking pitches up into shorter, up-and-down sections, and rigging lowers down exposed, short steps that I had always simply down-climbed. All told, a climb that had taken a mere hour and a half climbing independently took me three quite involved hours to guide.
To me, that is the part of guiding that I will always love the most--the challenge of using every trick in your toolbox to make a section of terrain as safe as you can for your climbers. My Rock Guide Course endowed me with plenty of tricks, from terrain belays to rigging rappels to rope management systems. The real excitement of the course, though, was getting experience applying these tricks in one of the most complex rock climbing areas in the country.
Dave Hahn calling from the Summit of Vinson Massif
On The Map
Posted by: Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
On The Map
Happy Birthday Mai!!! We had a cold beer in your honor! Glad you guys made it to 14 camp—looks incredible! Safe climbing! xo
Posted by: Jenny on 5/20/2012 at 7:10 am
Glad you’re having great weather and time. Not so great here (weather wise). Missed Mike at Torch Run today. I ran with CJ this year and Officer Umbs beat us. Furry kids up to their same old tricks and more…
Posted by: Kym on 5/20/2012 at 1:07 am
We did not have so far to go today, so we took it easy getting started at Karanga Camp. We got walking at 9 AM in the perfect morning weather we’ve become accustomed to. The team practiced the “rest step” and some “pressure breathing” on the gradual but steady ascent to 15,200 ft. We took two rest breaks along the way and made the move in less than three hours. Our amazing support team had camp well established at Barafu and that made it quite easy for us to just roll in and rest up. We sat down for lunch together and then lingered for a comprehensive talk about our summit bid. Things had clouded up a little, as we’ve found to be normal in midday, but less sun just made it a little easier to lounge in the tents for the afternoon. Early dinner was in order, because we’ve got big plans for the night. Just when the team thought the day was done, our fabulous chefs and waiters surprised Rob with a birthday cake (brought specially and secretly by runner from Arusha yesterday) and a round of singing and dancing. The entire team will remember Rob’s high altitude birthday for a long time. It is 7:30 PM now and all are in bed. We’ll wake at 11 PM and walk at midnight. We’ve got mountains to climb.
Best Regards
Woohoo!! Looking strong everyone! Can’t wait for tomorrow’s post! Good luck!
Posted by: Alisha Palmef on 8/20/2022 at 11:00 pm
Hi to John and Jeanne!
Been thinking of you two! You and the team are getting there! If I read the report right you have reached 15,200! Can’t wait to hear about this trip and see pictures! Wishing you both well!
Gav and I miss you John! The animals too! All is well though!
It has to feel amazing to FINALLY be on this trip!!! You both keep enjoying the climb!!
Love, Joleen
Posted by: Joleen & Gavin on 8/20/2022 at 9:50 pm
The clouds came back up over us in the night at Machame Camp, but the morning was pleasant enough. We busted out of camp just after 8 AM and started right off with some hard work through a forest of giant Heather. The trail was steeper and rockier than anything we had encountered yesterday… and a bit relentless. We pushed on for a couple of hours, getting above the clouds once more. After the steep hill, we worked more gradually up along a ridge crest through bright and intense sunshine. The team stuck right together as we made a turn to the North and traversed out toward the Shira Plateau. There were a few interesting parts requiring us to use our hands on the rock, and then we popped out on the plateau to the West of Kibo at 12,800 ft. It was a relaxing descent then to get to our new camp at 12,500. We took just over 4 hours to reach Shira and so we had a relaxing afternoon -as planned- in our new home. There were actually a few short rain showers as the day went by, but most of us were napping in the tents by then.
We met for teatime and storytelling in the late afternoon and then, after a beautiful sunset, dinner at 7 PM. By the time we piled out of the dining tent, the stars were brilliant. The Southern Cross and the Milky Way were easy to pick out, as were the distant lights of Arusha.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team
HEY SPENCER!! TONTO WEST AND I ARE DOING THE GOOD WEATHER DANCE, WE WANT TO SEE YOU GUYS GET TO THE SUMMIT! BUT BE SAFE.
Posted by: TOBY EMERSON on 7/16/2011 at 8:01 am
Safety and food, altitude wished for all in the waiting game. Happiness awaits. love dinah and sue
Posted by: dinah rogers on 7/15/2011 at 6:02 am
Congratulations Nicole and the entire team! Enjoy your New Year! We will celebrate when you get back.
Posted by: Lisa on 12/30/2012 at 7:35 am
Congrats to all. Well Done.
Posted by: Jack on 12/26/2012 at 3:08 pm
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