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Most Popular Entries


Ama Dablam: Elias & Team Practice Patience at Base Camp

Hello again. After a rest day yesterday at Ama Dablam Base Camp, where we practiced some of the rope techniques we'll implement on our ascent, today we're in a holding pattern for the weather. Our camps are stocked thanks to the help of our Sherpa, and we're ready to go when the time is right. In the meantime, we continue to execute expedition life; patience at it's best. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos
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Well you all look healthy and happy!

Holding pattern? You must have an airline pilot in the group

Posted by: lisa maiser on 11/13/2018 at 8:14 am


Mt. Rainier: Team Stands on Top!

The Four-Day climb led by RMI guides, Steve Gately and Devin Guffey, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team enjoyed nice weather and a busy route. 

The team will be back at Basecamp this evening to celebrate their success and all their hard work. Nice job team!

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Mt. Baker: Champion, Davis & Team Summit via Easton Glacier

The Mt. Baker Easton Glacier crew for July 26 - 29 reached the summit this morning led by RMI Guides Nikki Champion and Alan Davis.  The team gathered at the trail head on Monday and spent the last few days on the mountain learning glacier travel skills.  Today they put their training to work and were rewarded with 100% of the team reaching the top.  They will spend tonight back at camp and walk out to the trail head tomorrow, concluding their program.

Nice work team!

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Denali Expedition: Parrinello and Team Descend to base of Ski Hill

Sunday, June 18, 2022

Dun-dunana-dun-dun-dunnn (Imperial March music...please use your imagination)

We continued our migration down glacier from 14 Camp to the airstrip. Instead of a Flying V, we are in a Tromping I, roped together as always but this time it is very obvious as to why. The Kahiltna Glacier has melted down and broken up significantly since our last crossing. Weaving left and right, searching high and low for snow bridges that looked like they would support our weight. We finally make it the base of Ski Hill and decide to call it a day. The heat of the day has started to weaken the already soft snow and low and behold who do we see on the horizon??! It’s an RMI team headed uphill! Andy Bond and crew have just arrived at Camp 1. So we decide to spend the night with them to both let the snow and our bonds of friendship strengthen! Ends up there are mutual friends not only amongst the guides but also the teams! Let us rejoice! Tomorrow in the wee early hours of the morning we shall resume our march with refrozen snow and renewed strength in our quads.

We have the downhill mentality and the end is in sight (figuratively)!

Cheers,

RMI Guides Avery Parrinello, Jack Delaney, Liam Weed and the team

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Torres del Paine: King & Team Arrive in Punta Arenas

Quick check in for the Torres del Paine trek group. We are all in Punta Arenas with our luggage. The amount of paperwork and long lines to enter Chile was the first major obstacle. With late arrivals we didn’t get much sightseeing around Punta Arenas with the exception of a few walks along the water front to see the sculptures and lots of cormorants.  Today we will head to Puerto Natales to sort our gear and enjoy some of the Southern “fjord” landscape that make up this area. I will be sending daily updates of our trip once we enter Torres del Paine National Park on Tuesday. 

Thanks,

RMI Guide Mike King

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10 Reasons To Ski Chile’s Volcanoes

An accomplished skier and mountaineer, RMI Guide Tyler Reid knows a thing or two about exciting ski mountaineering trips and the Chile’s Volcanoes Ski Mountaineering Expedition stands out as one of his favorites. Tyler sat down to reflect on ten of the best things about skiing the Chilean Volcanoes: 10. The Timing. September is an amazing time to be skiing, and a healthy dose does wonders for your patience level while waiting for the Northern Hemisphere winter. Volcan Villarica (RMI Collection) 9. Pisco Sours. The perfect cap on any ski day. Pisco Sours (RMI Collection) 8. Araucarias (Monkey Puzzle Trees). Combined with the volcanic lunar landscapes, these add to the prehistoric nature of the subalpine landscapes, and you get the sensation you might run into dinosaurs at any moment. Araucarias (RMI Collection) 7. Young Volcanoes. Villarica’s summit crater is a boiling cauldron. Llaima last erupted in…2009! The steaming summit crater of Villarica 6. 4 Volcanoes in 10 Days. Many expeditions are lucky to climb one mountain in 10 days. Tyler Reid skiing on Llaima (Katy Reid) 5. The Proximity. The relative spacing of these four mountains could not be more perfect. Less car time, more skiing. The view of Llaima from Villarica (RMI Collection) 4. Light Backpacks. Most international expeditions involve hauling heavy loads. Not really the case on this trip. Three out of four of these peaks we ski with day packs. Katy Reid approaching Lonquimay (Tyler Reid) 3. The Corn. There’s something about Southern Hemisphere corn that’s extra buttery (corn snow that is). Tyler Reid skiing the corn on Llaima (Katy Reid) 2. The Country. Chile is a land of otherworldly landscapes, interesting culture, and incredibly friendly people. Villarica above Pucon (RMI Collection) 1. Aesthetic Lines. The ski descents themselves are even more impressive than the summits. Tyler Reid skiing Llaima (Katy Reid) Find out more about skiing Chile’s Volcanoes this September on RMI’s Chile’s Volcanoes Ski Mountaineering Expedition…
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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Turned by High Winds

RMI Guide Ben Liken and the Four Day Summit Climb team June 17 - 21, 2017 made their summit attempt of Mt. Rainier this morning but were forced to turn around at 13,800' due to high winds and icy conditions. The team is making their way back to Camp Muir where they will take a short break and re-pack their gear before continuing their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Reach Summit!

Hello, this is Jake calling from 17,000’ camp on Denali after what was an unbelievable summit day. The team is back in camp safe and sound. We are having some dinner before turning in for a very well earned night’s sleep. Everybody did fantastic today, we had perfect conditions. It was a really beautiful climb. I’ll give a little more information after we get down. Just know that everybody is safe after a wonderful day here in Alaska. Alright, that is it for now. RMI Guide Jake Beren


RMI Guide Jake Beren checks in after the team's summit day.

On The Map

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Bob, one more peak under your belt! What a huge accomplishment! All your training and determination is paying off. The girls and I are at the lake and we had spotty communication, but I was following your progress daily, sometimes multiple times daily! Keep your balance on that descent and don’t come down the mountain faster than you should!! ;-)

Kathy

Posted by: Kathy Spinks on 6/22/2012 at 8:11 am

We are SO impressed! Congratulations! Roger and Charlie

Posted by: Charlie Hewson on 6/22/2012 at 3:01 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Route & Forecast are Looking Better

Hello, this is Dave Hahn calling from Everest Base Camp. We're resting and hiking and we're watching the progress of the weather conditions. It has been snowing a little bit every day and it seems, from what we have been told, that conditions have gotten a little bit better on the upper mountain. There was significant progress yesterday. A team of climbers, sherpas made it to the South Col. The route is fixed all the way to 8,000 meters now. Our sherpa team is going up tomorrow morning up to Camp 2 to check out conditions and see whether it makes sense for them to get on the wall to establish our Camp 3 and Camp 4. There is supposed to be, the next few days, supposed to be calm with continued light snow each day and we are seeing that is a good thing. Then the winds are supposed to come back, the jet stream is supposed to move into the mountains, but briefly, and then we are hoping for a break in conditions after the middle of the month. So it is going to be a little bit of a down time for the climbing team and we are keeping ourselves busy, like I say, with hiking and eating and resting and games. So far so good. Things seemed to have calmed down on Mt. Everest. Bye for now. RMI Guide Dave Hahn


Dave Hahn from Everest Base Camp

On The Map

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Hello Dave and Melissa: I just got on your blog a week or so ago and have enjoyed your posts! Wishing the best in climbing for you and certainly hope the conditions start to improve so you can get to your goal: a summitt attempt! Things are good in Seattle and I hope to get on Mt. Rainier a couple times this summer. Then the best part: the Mountain Festival! Hope you’ll both be in attendance again since it’s so good to visit and hear your climbing experiences. My radio station is supposed to be getting in touch with RMI to set things up for another weekend of coverage. Sending good climbing vibes your way, so good luck! Mike Brown

Posted by: Mike Brown on 5/9/2012 at 11:00 pm

Good climbing, David . 
hoped to meet your father and Lisa in Boston at the end of this month but Memorial w/e is not propitious for Ron to drive.  I read about your intrepid hike with Ron in Yosemite.  Remarkable, and so well written.
Regards and Berg Heil from Your distant relative

Hugo

Posted by: Hugo Langshur on 5/9/2012 at 5:56 am


Denali Expediton: Rest Day for Bond and Team

Today was our first real rest day. The task was to do nothing, and we excelled at it.

After sleeping for about 12 hours, we got our aching bodies into the breakfast tent and were served several delicious courses to replenish as many calories as possible: bagels with bacon and salmon, cereals and breakfast burritos.

Happy and with full bellies, we dug comfortable resting places into the snow and spent most of the day out in the sun, listening to music, eating some more, chatting and just enjoying the amazing view over glaciers and clouds below us.

The day finishes with shredded beef burritos and the feeling that we are ready for another big day tomorrow, moving our camp to 14,000’ feet.

Sebastian and Team

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