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Mt. Rainier: July 12th Summit!

July 12, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita, Peter Whittaker, Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Our teams on the Four Day Summit Climb reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Disappointment Cleaver Route early this morning. With this bluebird weather we have on the mountain, the teams were on their descent by 7:20 a.m. They will be back at Camp Muir by approximately 11:30 a.m. and will celebrate their feat on Rainier Basecamp later this afternoon. Jake Beren and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons was on top via the Emmons Glacier Route at 8:00 a.m. His team will stay another night at Camp Schurman and descend off Mt. Rainier tomorrow. Congratulations to today’s teams summitting on both routes!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome accomplishment Tim and Larry-congratulations! xoxo

Posted by: Kathleen Hanlon on 7/12/2012 at 5:32 pm

What a happy day with this great acheivement for all. Congratulations Kevin! I am so psyched and so proud of you. It all began with Mt Katadhin and Telluride and there you are. Much love to you.

Posted by: PJM on 7/12/2012 at 5:08 pm

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Trekking to Deboche

March 19, 2012

Posted by: Linden Mallory

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 12,325'

It was again very chilly this morning as we packed up our bags and prepared to leave our teahouse in Namche, but as soon as we started hiking the steep steps that lead out of Namche warmed us up quickly. The first few hours of the trail traversed along the hillside beyond Namche, contouring along the steep slopes above the river far below. Occasional stupas with prayer flags streaming for their gold topped spires dotted the ridge lines we traversed. The trail was bustling with activity; trains of yaks carrying loads to and from the villages higher up the valley plied the narrow path along with children heading to school, trekkers, and the average Khumbu "commuter" walking between the villages. It was another crystal clear morning and the views of Everest and it's neighboring mountains were incredible. Finally reaching the end of the traverse in the village of Kyangjuma, we paused for some tea, much to the delight of the local Sherpani women selling jewelry along the side of the trail. With our packs a bit heavier, we descended through the pines to the river crossing at Phunki Tanga, a small village of only a few buildings sitting at the base of our big climb for the day. The trail from there ascends through pine forests, rhododendron trees, and into junipers in a seemingly endless series of switchbacks. The southern exposure of the hillside is fully exposed to the midday sun and we were soon very hot, hiking in t-shirts and shorts - a drastic change from the cold temperatures of the morning. We settled into a steady pace, slowly ticking off the switchbacks one by one, until all 1800' of the climb lay below us and we created the ridge into the village of Tengboche. Tengboche is dominated by the large monastery overlooking the center of the village, and equally by Everest and Ama Dablam which loom largely in the distance. A breeze was blowing down from the valley above and we quickly pulled on our warmer coats as we passed the monastery's front gate. In Tengboche we treated ourselves to a slice of apple pie at the local bakery before descending the other side of the ridge a few minutes to our next tea-house in the village of Deboche, tucked away in the forest of rhododendron just below the monastery. The team is acclimatizing well and everyone felt strong today on the trail, easily navigating the trail while keeping up the light hearted jokes and banter which has become the norm on the trail. We are sending our best to everyone back home and appreciate all of the comments and good wishes left on the blog. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Another great day for the Team. Should we worry that any of you may convert and stay behind in one of those beautiful Buddhist monastaries? Good luck on your next hike to 14,000’. It’ll be a piece of cake for his team!

Posted by: Hugh on 3/20/2012 at 2:54 pm

Hi Guys! The students at UCLAN University in the UK and are currently in the process of producing a musical courtesy of richard taylor and roger haines about the history, trials and tradgedies of climbing mount Everest. We would all first like to say how inspirational you all are and think its an amazing thing you are doing!!! We just wondered if anyone can tell us how big the top of summit actually is? BEST WISHSES AND GOOD LUCK TO YOU ALL!!! X X X

Posted by: Aine O'Grady on 3/20/2012 at 1:43 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Carry to 16,600’

June 30, 2022

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Tatum Whatford, Seth Burns

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Wednesday, June 29, 2022 - 10:32 pm PT

This was a big and beautiful day on Denali. Sunny from start to finish with barely a puff of wind all day. So we made good use of it. We were up at 7 and out of camp by 8:50 in the morning shadows. We powered on up the hills just out of camp that steepened to headwalls a few hours along. The team did great in managing the fixed ropes on the steep ice leading to the crest of the West Buttress. We were at the top of the ropes by 12:15 PM where we took a short break looking out over about half the planet. We proceeded up the ridge for some interesting climbing, putting our hands on clean granite while our crampons worked up firm snow. At 16,600 ft -the base of “Washburn’s Thumb” we declared victory and dug a cache for the supplies we’d carried. We made our way back down, slowly and carefully, reaching camp at 14,000' about 7 and a half hours after we’d departed. Just in time for a pre-dinner nap. The team was excited to hear of Andy Bond’s team tagging the top in perfect conditions today. We look forward to seeing them back down at 14,000' tomorrow. We’ll be resting and getting ready to move up to 17,000' when we get the opportunity.

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Way to go team!
Diana and Tom

Posted by: Diana Weiss on 6/30/2022 at 9:27 am

Amazing progress everyone!

You are all AMAZING!

Posted by: Margaret Nolan on 6/30/2022 at 9:07 am

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make the Move to High Camp

May 30, 2022

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Erika Birkeland

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 10:27 pm PT

Unlike two days ago, when we woke up there wasn't a hint of wind in sight. We had word from Mike Walter's team that the weather at 17,000' was perfect to, so we launched out of 14,000' Camp in high spirits. It was one of the most pleasant days I can remember on the West Buttress. Temps were comfortable, no wind, and the views unparalleled. It's also some of the most fun climbing. We were at camp by early afternoon, set up tents, fired an early dinner, and congratulated Mike's team as they came back from the summit. Things look really good for us tomorrow, so fingers crossed, we'll make our push in the morning.

RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

C’mon team! Can’t wait to read the post about the summit! Wishing you good weather and strength. Molta força!

Posted by: Anna P on 5/31/2022 at 5:43 am

Congratulations on getting to 17k! I’m so excited for your hopeful push tomorrow. We’re all pulling for you, sending you positive thoughts and intentions. Keep reaching towards your goals, be safe, be amazing!

Posted by: Patrick Schmitz on 5/30/2022 at 8:19 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Beren & Team’s Update

August 5, 2019

Posted by: Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Summit! RMI Guide Jake Beren and his team reached the top of Mt. Rainier, the highest point in Washington! The team enjoyed blue skies and warm mountain temperatures. After spending time on the summit, the team is currently on their descent to Camp Muir.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations to all. Quite an achievement.

Posted by: Jim Price on 8/5/2019 at 12:32 pm

Congrats to the P-burgh/Carnegie climbers. The second time is the charm! Safe travels down , and a good rest tonight.

Posted by: Jo Ann on 8/5/2019 at 11:09 am

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Mt. Rainier: May 26th Update

May 26, 2012

Posted by: Adam Knoff

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,000'

The Four Day and Five Day Summit Climbs reached Ingraham Flats this morning on their summit attempt. The weather has been unsettled, which resulted in unfavorable route conditions. Both teams are safely off the mountain enjoying their program wrap up with their guides.

Everest Base Camp Trek: Acclimatization Hike Above Pheriche

March 22, 2012

Posted by: Linden Mallory

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 13,950'

While we were expecting a chilly night of sleep, it was surprisingly warm in Pheriche. The colder temperatures rumored in the valley this spring didn't affect us as much as we anticipated, much to everyone's pleasure. Without needing to reach the next village before the weather set in, we took our time at breakfast, going through several thermoses of tea before we headed out for a hike. Leaving Pheriche, we climbed directly up the tall hillside behind town and across a rolling plateau to a ridge running from the higher hills above. Pausing there we had clear views southwards back down the Khumbu Valley towards Tengboche and eventually Namche. To our west the valley continued up further before turning sharply north and into the final cirque of mountains where Everest Base Camp is. To the east ran the Imja Khola Valley, framed at the top by a ring of mountains surrounding Island Peak - the climbing objective for a few of us next week after we visit Base Camp. We climbed a bit higher up the ridge, eventually stopping in a spot protected from the gentle but still biting breeze. Staying up there for awhile, we looked at the panorama of great Himalayan peaks and giving our bodies the feel for the higher elevations to come. We descended back to our tea-house by midday and spent a few hours relaxing the the sun room - a greenhouse like room built on the second story that heats up quite quickly during the day - before heading next door to the Himalayan Rescue Association Clinic. Volunteer doctors staff the small medical facility here, offering medical care for the local population as well as trekkers affected by the altitude. They gave us a very informative briefing on altitude and demonstrated the use of a Gamow Bag - a portable hyperbaric chamber used to simulate lower elevations. The team remains in great spirits, managing the newer altitudes well and keeping the trip lighthearted and convivial. Tomorrow we climb further up the valley to the tiny village of Lobuche, sitting alongside the toe of the Khumbu Glacier. It is exciting to be approaching our destination and we are looking forward to the days ahead. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey girls - like everyone else I’m amazed by your accomplishments and very grateful for the good weather and good health (so far) you all have enjoyed. What an adventure. Until today I had been just reading Dana Marie’s blog (which is great - thanks for doing that D-M - it has been the highlight of my days), and when Sasha told me everyone was posting on the blog I had no idea of what she was talking about until a client who is thinking about doing a trek sent me the link after I was talking about your exploits. While lacking the color of D-M’s posts, it is great to get the skinny from the guides on what you are doing every day and love the pictures.
Hope you all continue to feel well and enjoy the trip.
Mike

Posted by: Mike Hogan on 3/23/2012 at 6:10 pm

Hi mom! I love u! Hope u r having fun. Miss u!
Love Katie

Posted by: Katie on 3/23/2012 at 5:03 pm

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Everest Expedition: Preparations in Kathmandu

March 21, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

A week ago, under the soft grey winter skies of Seattle, Jeff Martin and I hauled our 8 duffel bags from the loading curb at Sea Tac to the Korean Air check-in counter. Two window and one aisle seat, three oxygen masks safety demonstrations, about 5500 air miles, and one questionable airline fish meal later, we piled the duffels onto a rickety luggage cart and rolled them through the doors of Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan Airport into the turmoil of Kathmandu. Since arrival our days are filled with preparations for RMI’s upcoming Everest Expedition. The array of moving parts that come together for a safe and successful Himalayan Expedition are at times overwhelming. It takes months of hard work by numerous people, both here in Kathmandu by our fantastic Nepali partners, High Altitude Dreams, to RMI’s preparations back in the States. While most of the minute to minute tasks are more of the mundane variety – from taking inventory of our lithium batteries supply (535) to the tetris challenge of packing the variety of medication and vitamin bottles into the tackle box of the Base Camp Medical Kit - the effect is invigorating. It is here in Kathmandu that the Everest Expedition morphs from the multiple separate components of focus that consumed our attention over the winter months to the cumulative creation of everyone’s efforts. It is here that the excitement builds and the climb begins to take shape. The Expedition becomes tangible and real: the tents and ropes are sorted and counted, the loads are packed and on their way by yak and porter to Base Camp, and the permit sits in front of us awaiting Dave Hahn’s signature as the Expedition Leader. The preparations in Kathmandu also plunge us into the city’s daily chaos: dodging traffic rickshaws and speeding taxes in an almost desperate game of frogger to cross the street, navigating the narrow alley ways in order to track down a crucial item, finding relief in the living rooms of friends’ homes while sharing a cup of tea and catching up since the last visit. On Saturday this teeming city of 1.4 million celebrated the Hindu Holi Festival, known as the Festival Of Colors – a holiday linked to several mythical tales in Hinduism and manifested in a messy, wild, and boisterous all day street party. Walking through the streets of Indra Chwok, a particularly narrow and busy neighborhood in Kathmandu’s heart, on Saturday, bands of people sang and danced in the streets, covering each other in red, yellow, black, and blue chalky powder as others dumped buckets of water from rooftops or lobbed water balloons from doorways. Amidst the frenzy of celebration, Jeff and I were greeted with shy hesitation at first –foreigners yet uncolored with powder amidst the festivities. Yet once a few brave souls rubbed our cheeks with powder we were marked: color came from every direction, buckets of water and water balloons launched our way. The hotel staff had more than a few chuckles when we walked in the door, grinning and covered in multiple colors. This week our Island Peak and Base Camp Trek team heads into the Khumbu, followed days later by our Everest Team, and we are again immersed in the world of the mountains. The time spent with crampons on our feet is often the focus of our climbing pursuits but this time in Kathmandu is a reminder that this too is a part of the adventure - even when wearing flip flops. The months of hard work leading up to the mountain, the places we travel to, the sites we see, the people, the stories, and laughs we encounter along the way are all part of our mountaineering adventures. - Linden Mallory

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All the best to Jeff and Linden and climbers. Great to read the blogs…about as close as I’ll be getting to Everest for a while! Having been on an expedition with Jeff and Linden, this group is in good hands and will have a great adventure. Steve di Costanzo, Redding, CT

Posted by: Steve di Costanzo on 4/21/2011 at 3:00 am

You must be headed up the mountain by now, could not find anything online this morning. Will try later. Take care! Love, MA

Posted by: Mary Ann & Howard Latimer on 3/26/2011 at 9:11 am

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Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Spend Day in Ngorongoro Crater

August 24, 2022

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

We spent our day in a collapsed volcano. Ngorongoro Crater didn’t disappoint. It was a clear morning at our hotel but it was cold and there was still a little cloud hanging around the rim of the caldera (which is at around 10,000 ft). We did an hour of the usual rough roads to get to the descent road into the crater. Then we saw two of the “Big Five” species before we’d even made it to the floor of the crater. There was a big bull elephant with enormous tusks and not too far away there was a sleeping male lion. Before long we were seeing thousands of zebra, wildebeest, gazelles, Cape buffalo and warthogs. There were tons of hippos. The highlights were reckoned to be the Caracal we spied (a medium sized cat with big pointy ears… rarely seen in Ngorongoro) and the pack of hyenas ripping up a Cape Buffalo carcass. After another great picnic lunch in the field, we went back up to the crater rim to visit a Maasai village. We watched (and joined in) traditional dances. We saw the men make fire and throw spears, then we got a tour of the homes within a protective brush enclosure.

Then we had another 90 minutes of bouncing over dirt roads before we got back to the ultra comfortable Plantation Lodge for the evening.

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Vinson Massif: Snow Sculpture Contest at VBC

December 16, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif

Elevation: 7,200'

Another day drifting in the Vinson Basecamp milk bottle, surrounded by whiteness. Except it was fun. The RMI team competed in a snow sculpture contest with the New Zealand team and the German Team today. TA built a Canadian living room replica, complete with couch, fireplace, TV and maple leaf. Then she joined Mindy and I in constructing a team of sled dogs pulling a sled and a towering and imposing Amundson, arriving at the Pole. We'll concede that he was so massive that his dog team appeared to be composed of puppies, rabbits and squirrels. The German guide, Reigner, built an impressive titanic replica. Vlado made snow angels inside his tent. After dinner the ALE staff judged the artwork and found each and every climber to be deserving of a cold beverage. Twenty of us, from 11 countries, sat in the basecamp headquarters tent for that beverage and a fine custard desert and received the good news that the ALE Twin Otters had just departed South Pole bound for Union Glacier. If our weather shapes up by morning, things could start happening fast. Or not. We shall see. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wishing you sunny day tomorrow! Enjoy hte rest of this moment Vlado, it will never come back same way.
Talk to you soon
Maria

Posted by: maria on 12/16/2011 at 11:00 pm

Enjoy the moment Mindy - such a fantastic experience & result!
We’re missing you here at home!
Love dean

Posted by: dean on 12/16/2011 at 10:14 am

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Most Popular Entries

Mt. Rainier: July 12th Summit!

Everest Base Camp Trek: Trekking to Deboche

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Carry to 16,600’

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Make the Move to High Camp

Mt. Rainier: Beren & Team’s Update

Mt. Rainier: May 26th Update

Everest Base Camp Trek: Acclimatization Hike Above Pheriche

On The Map

Everest Expedition: Preparations in Kathmandu

Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Spend Day in Ngorongoro Crater

Vinson Massif: Snow Sculpture Contest at VBC

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