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Posted by: Linden Mallory
Categories: Guide News Aconcagua Everest
Posted by:
Categories: Guide News Everest
Posted by: Mike King, Mike Haugen, George Hedreen, Charlie Harrison, Cal Seeley, Bailey Servais
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI guides Mike King and Mike Haugen called from the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They reported some chilly temperatures, moderate winds and beautiful weather for climbing this morning. Despite the cold temperatures, the team enjoyed a great climbing route. Congratulations climbers!
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Dominic Cifelli, Tatum Whatford, Seth Burns
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, June 29, 2022 - 10:32 pm PT
This was a big and beautiful day on Denali. Sunny from start to finish with barely a puff of wind all day. So we made good use of it. We were up at 7 and out of camp by 8:50 in the morning shadows. We powered on up the hills just out of camp that steepened to headwalls a few hours along. The team did great in managing the fixed ropes on the steep ice leading to the crest of the West Buttress. We were at the top of the ropes by 12:15 PM where we took a short break looking out over about half the planet. We proceeded up the ridge for some interesting climbing, putting our hands on clean granite while our crampons worked up firm snow. At 16,600 ft -the base of “Washburn’s Thumb” we declared victory and dug a cache for the supplies we’d carried. We made our way back down, slowly and carefully, reaching camp at 14,000' about 7 and a half hours after we’d departed. Just in time for a pre-dinner nap. The team was excited to hear of Andy Bond’s team tagging the top in perfect conditions today. We look forward to seeing them back down at 14,000' tomorrow. We’ll be resting and getting ready to move up to 17,000' when we get the opportunity.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Way to go team!
Diana and Tom
Posted by: Diana Weiss on 6/30/2022 at 9:27 am
Amazing progress everyone!
You are all AMAZING!
Posted by: Margaret Nolan on 6/30/2022 at 9:07 am
Posted by: James Bealer, Joe Hoch, Henry Coppolillo, Jess Wedel, Augi Fleer, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Clear skies and a bit of wind accompanied the Four Day Climb July 15 - 18 teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guides James Bealer, Joe Hoch and their climbing teams enjoyed a bit of time on top this morning before starting their descent from the crater rim around 7:20 am. The teams have returned to Camp Muir and will take a short break to repack and refuel before continuing the remaing 4.5 miles and 4.500' descent to Paradise this afternoon.
Nice work today team!
Thank you to the entire RMI team for making this trip successful, safe and a huge amount of fun!
Posted by: Patrick on 7/20/2021 at 4:51 pm
Posted by:
Categories: 50 Years of Climbing
2010: Lance at Plaza Argentina, BaseCamp on Aconcagua.
One afternoon in 2001, we found ourselves on the Skyline Trail of Mt. Rainier. On that afternoon everything changed. We ran into groups of descending climbers. This was new! We both knew nothing of the climbing world and we both were instantly fascinated by them. Somehow they were like mythical creatures. They looked cool and had the coolest stuff attached to their big backpacks: ice axes, crampons, helmets, ropes. They had seen places that truly not a lot of people get to see. Earthly folks on the Skyline Trail made way to let them pass. It was impressive.
Suddenly hiking took on a whole new dimension. It was still just hiking, but we started to educate ourselves about Mt. Rainier, Mt. Everest, mountaineering equipment, Camp Muir, Ed Viesturs, etc. We figured out that RMI existed in Ashford. We attended the first Rainier Mountain Festival that RMI had (even before there was the Bar and Grill). Ed Viesturs was there and we had our picture taken with him. He was our new idol.
Annette Berg at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford, WA.
All along we heard stories about the Muir Snowfield. We heard about the dangers of it. In our minds, only those mythical creatures could walk up the Snowfield to get to Camp Muir. One day, we hiked up to Pebble Creek and dared to walk onto the Muir Snowfield. We probably went up about a quarter of a mile and then, for no apparent reason, became freaked out by our own boldness and returned promptly to Pebble Creek. We did however, feel quite accomplished with our quarter mile venture.
Throughout the years, the hiking continued. The mountaineering knowledge increased. We actually dared to go to Camp Muir many times, sometimes a few times a week. We still admired all the mythical creatures that were at Camp Muir ready to climb the Mountain.
Then in 2008, Lance decided he would climb Mt. Rainier and become one of those mythical creatures. He went all in and signed up for a climb with Ed Viesturs and Peter Whittaker in August 2008. I guess I was his base camp manager. I helped him with all the packing, repacking, and food selection. We combed through the agenda and checklists for hours to make sure he had everything. It was exhilarating.
2008: Mt. Rainier. From L to R: Peter Whittaker, Melissa Arnot Reid, Lance Berg, and Ed Viesturs.
On a hot and sunny morning, when the Viesturs/Whittaker team went up to Camp Muir, I was at Pebble Creek taking pictures like paparazzi as they passed by. I wished them luck and waived them off. By the time I returned to Paradise, it was noisy and very busy. I had binoculars and from the parking lot I could see the upper end of the Muir Snowfield. I think that was the moment I fell in love with the Mountain. I saw the groups of climbers, like centipedes, silent and graceful, above all the commotion of Paradise. Up there the centipedes seem to be one with nature and worshipping the Mountain. I was convinced that the tourists down below had no clue about what goes on up there. Lance made his first summit. Then mountaineering became a passion.
He loved climbing with RMI. He loved the adventure and the social aspect. He preferred to climb with RMI rather than privately because he knew a lot of the guides. If a jacket, shirt, or hat had the RMI logo on it, he had to buy it. If I wanted to be seen in his company, I had to have items with the RMI logo. I was part of all his training and planning. Heck, I have seen so many orientations at RMI, I could give that presentation. Every summer, RMI BaseCamp in Ashford was our happy place. We would drive the two and a half hours to Mt. Rainier many times for a day of hiking, or to go up to Camp Muir, and then returned to RMI for food and beer. We attended many more Mountain Festivals.
2012: Lance celebrates his 6th summit of Mt. Rainier. This summit was via the Emmons Route.
Lance ended up climbing Mt Rainier seven times with RMI. One of the climbs was the Emmons route. Every time he came down, I was waiting for him at BaseCamp with a beer ready and sandals so he could free his feet from his climbing boots. One day, there were even a few of the Seattle Seahawks Cheerleaders at BaseCamp, but that’s a different story entirely. Lance’s other RMI climbs included Mt. Shuksan, Cotopaxi and Cayambe in Ecuador, Ixtaccihuatl and Pico de Orizaba in Mexico, and Aconcagua in Argentina.
2010: Lance on the summit of Aconcagua.
Just to make it clear, Lance’s death in 2016 was not due to mountaineering. Since then, I have continued to return to Mt. Rainier and RMI BaseCamp in the summers to hike. Sometimes I’m alone, sometimes with family or friends. The Mountain will always be one of the most amazing places I have been to and it holds a special place in my heart. This year with our 25th wedding anniversary, my plan is to summit Mt. Rainier in Lance’s memory. I want to take Lance’s picture to the summit. The Mountain has brought him and me so much happiness. I need to stand on top so I can feel closer to the mythical creature my husband has become.
Annette Berg
I loved reading this touching article you wrote Annette and seeing the pictures as well. I’m glad that climbing Mt Rainier gave both you and my brother Lance much happiness and still continues to give you many good memories. You are a strong woman and are amazing to climb Mt Rainier so many times! I will always remember hiking lower Mt Rainier with you and our family in memory of Lance. Memories of Lance and that hike will stay in my heart forever ❤
Posted by: Cherie Berg Wasmund on 7/9/2019 at 7:09 pm
I love that Lance’s passion for the mountain and climbing lives on through you Annette. We will be at up at Camp Muir cheering you on and are looking forward to celebrating with you afterwards!
Posted by: Bret Berg on 7/9/2019 at 6:44 pm
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
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On The Map
Well let’s just say, “Buzzard Butthairs” to another day at 17,200, and good for you for patience and persistence. No Denali Demons allowed, and may you soon reach your goal. Keep up that strong spirit.
GO TYM! GO TEAM!
Love Mom and Zeppelin
Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 7/2/2019 at 9:59 am
Wayne, Zach and Ian-how are those snacks tasting? Hope you can summit today. Best wishes to the entire team. The summit awaits you!!!
Posted by: Aunt Kathy on 7/2/2019 at 8:49 am
Posted by: JT Schmitt, Matias Francis, Jackson Breen
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:14 pm PT
Our first full day at Camp was a beautiful one! We slept in and then did a back carry to get all of our gear up to our camp here at 14,200'. Then we enjoyed relaxing and enjoying the sun for the rest of the day.
Tomorrow is going to be a much deserved rest day!
Thanks for following.
RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI Team
Love seeing this top of the world images and imagining all you strong climbers taking it in. Good luck and thanks for sending these back down to the rest of us cheering for you!
Posted by: Sarah Williams on 6/1/2022 at 6:50 am
Hi Ken! Really enjoying the updates and pictures of the magnificent scenery!
Hope you and your teammates are all doing well!
Diane & John
Posted by: Diane & John Bertosa on 5/28/2022 at 10:52 am
Posted by: Jack Delaney, Mike Bennett
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 4,500'
Hello all –
The team awoke to find improving weather and a newfound hopefulness to escape the ever-shrinking Talkeetna. After a walk to the local coffee shop the team began their standby at K2 Aviation where they waited for the green light for clear enough cloud cover to depart. At around 3pm, the signal was given and in a mad flurry the plane was loaded, and the expedition was a go! The team enjoyed a scenic flight into the freshly snow coated Alaska range with nearly clear and sunny skies. Once on the glacier, the team was quickly left alone to divide gear, load sleds, and embark down the valley. Deep snow made for slow travel as the team broke the trail through a few feet of fresh Alaskan powder. After a few hours, the team broke down for camp, probing a safe spot on the glacier and settling in. Tents were quickly pitched, and dinner was thrown together. The team enjoyed a clear and scenic backdrop before heading to bed.
All the best,
RMI Guides Mike Bennett, Jack Delaney and the Ruth crew!
I saw clear skies in w app. How exciting! Just look at that snow! Gorgeous view. Early to bed. Stay warm and safe y’all. Enjoy
Posted by: Susan on 5/5/2023 at 9:45 pm
Congratulations to all. Quite an achievement.
Posted by: Jim Price on 8/5/2019 at 12:32 pm
Congrats to the P-burgh/Carnegie climbers. The second time is the charm! Safe travels down , and a good rest tonight.
Posted by: Jo Ann on 8/5/2019 at 11:09 am
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