Well, despite Mother Nature's best efforts 100% of our team stood on the summit of Aconcagua, South America's highest point, at approximately 1:00 pm local time. We were accosted by moderate winds and cold temps most of the evening at Camp Colera so we decided to push back our departure to 5:30 a.m. We were hoping to avoid subjecting the team to too much cold. Well, despite our best efforts to mitigate the weather, we were thoroughly brutalized by wind and cold for the entire climb except for the last 2 stretches of the descent. Our climbers all did a terrific job taking care of themselves and preventing cold injuries. They climbed so efficiently that what is normally a 12 hour summit day we accomplished in 10! Maybe it was the short/lack of breaks, maybe they all possess mutant strength...
Regardless, we're heading for Aconcagua Basecamp tomorrow!
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Arriving back into Everest Base Camp yesterday afternoon after twelve days of absence was a homecoming of sorts for me - in days since I was last here with our Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak team the community here at Everest Base Camp has come alive with the buzz of climbing expeditions that are now settled in. The trails that pick their way between the piles moraine, ice ponds, and clusters of tents, quite faint a few weeks ago, are wearing in and strings upon strings of prayer flags now emanate from the camps, strung up during each expedition's puja ceremony. When I diverged off the main trail that passes through Base Camp and walked into RMI's Camp, I was warmly greeted by our Expedition Team; after several days of quietly walking back into Base Camp by myself I was thrilled to rejoin the Expedition and catch up with everyone . Sitting around our dining tent in the evening we raised our steaming cups of tea and hot drinks to finally having the whole team together and our climb underway.
Clear skies greeted us this morning for our rest day and as the sun crept slowly across the valley we brewed up a fresh pot of coffee and pulled the chairs out of the dining tent to sit and watch the morning light gradually awaken Base Camp. Several teams nearby held their pujas today and the slow sound of the lama's beating drum could be heard across Base Camp while we sat there. With no other objective than to relax and recover from the days of training and walking, we enjoyed a calm morning. The early breeze that blew through Base Camp when we first awoke soon died and the sun quickly warmed up camp. While the rest of us were more intrepid, Tuck was even brave enough to stroll around Camp in shorts for a few hours. With it so warm out it was a perfect opportunity for each of us to grab a wash. After several days of walking back up the dusty trails of the Khumbu, the hot water and steam that filled the shower tent felt wonderful. Very rarely does putting on fresh clothes feel so luxurious.
Despite our objective of rest, we still had a bit of business to attend to in preparing our gear for our upcoming days of climbing. In the afternoon we spent a few hours sorting our gear and preparing for our first rotation to Camp 1 that will take place soon. After packing our warm layers, down suits, and the small necessities we will need up there, Tuck opened up the Base Camp stores for us to go "shopping" for our meals and snacks that we will need during the rotation. Much like the aisles of a grocery store, but on a far smaller but still no less impressive scale given our setting, Tuck opened up the barrels and boxes of dried fruits, salamis, cheeses, granola bars, candy bars, cookies, crackers, trail mix, freeze dried meals, hot drinks, and soups that we have here. Grabbing a zip lock bag in lieu of a shopping basket, we picked our way through selecting the items that we want to eat during the rotation. Bill jumped for the Fig Newtons and a bag of Trader Joe's Banana Chips and I spied some smoked salmon, cheese, and crackers, also grabbing a couple of handfuls of the bite size candy bars that are my weakness when sitting around the tent. Before long we had all of our snacks and meals portioned out and packed up for the move.
With the afternoon clouds rolling in and the temperatures returning to their normal chilly level, Tuck retired the shorts for a puffy coat in time to host a couple of climbers to a few holes of glacier golf around camp and a round of horseshoes. The horseshoes game came down to a nail biter one point game but thanks to some last minute technique tips from Tuck I managed to hit the winning point, ensuring our victory but sadly disappointing our guests. Nothing a fresh brewed pot of coffee and some cookies couldn't smooth over before they were soon calling for a rematch.
We are about to sit down to our first Burrito Night of the trip, an occasion that Tuck was kind enough to wait for me to arrive here at Base Camp before serving. After close to three weeks of dining in teahouses my stomach is growling just thinking about the tortillas, fresh cheddar, and salsa. Since first working with our expedition cook Kumar in 2009, it has been a very fun experience to show him some of the western meals that we enjoy cooking and I have now given up making nachos at home as I cannot make them as remotely enjoyable as his.
Tomorrow we are getting up early for our first true foray into the Icefall, hoping to climb up to an area midway through known as the Football Field. In addition to giving us additional exposure to higher elevations above Base Camp and building our acclimatization, it is an important step for our team in putting our training and equipment into action in the lower stretches of the Icefall and preparing us for our move through it up to Camp 1 in a few days. We are feeling well rested after today and looking forward to tomorrow's climb.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Huge icefall last night off of the nearby peak called Pumori. Named by Mallory in 1921 it means sister or Daughter peak. This mountain is rarely climbed, at over 7,000 meters, it being very steep and with no way to the top without exposing yourself to loads of hanging hazards.
A perfectly clear and calm evening turned into a wild scene as I peaked out of my tent after such a rude awakening by the loud crack, as what I can only imagine were millions of tons of ice being pulverized into powder as it hits the rock and ice surface after its 1,500-foot freefall. Being so bright out with so much moon, it was pretty fun to watch this huge dust cloud come barreling at us. Just as it hit my tent I closed the flap and listened to the rattle and knew why in the morning we had this layer of snow covering our camp.
Dave, Sara, Bill and myself just returned from a hike up to Pumori Camp 1, which sits at 18,600'. And no, we were not exposing ourselves to the hazards I just mentioned, those are farther up the mountain. What we did expose ourselves to were some of the best views of Everest you can imagine. I will let Dave's pictures do the talking.
Linden, who climbed Island Peak this week, just now arrived at Basecamp, so the team is now all here.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mark Tucker
Hi, Bill. I liked your post about how this is giving you time to connect with your daughter, Ms. Ship in the Night, Soon to Grow Up and Away. We went hiking almost every weekend and summer vacation when I was growing up, and as Dave (my “little” brother) can attest to, it is an amazing and wonderful memory, one of the purest and most magical things you can give her—time together. Good luck on your climb! Say hi to David (I know, Dave to everyone else…but—glad you caught his essential Dave-ness. One foot in front of the other—you are in very good hands).
Posted by: Carolyn Hahn on 4/24/2011 at 3:42 pm
Love the blog and pictures!! I’ve read books about Everst but it is amazing to experience through your team. Bill we need your signature, and I thought it would be great to get it when you are crossing a ladder in the Icefall. Have a great time and hats off to Sara.
July 11, 2022 - Huaraz to BC: The team loaded up the bus from the hotel this morning and after about an hour through pleasantly rough and rocky roads arrived at Pashpa. Here we loaded up our burros with duffels, food, climbing gear, and base camp infrastructure then promptly began our 4-hour trek up the Ishinca Valley. Through high grassy knolls, green forests, and boulder fields leftover from glaciers many millennia ago, we reached our basecamp at just over 14,000.’ Ishinca Base Camp is quite the spot. Surrounded by steep rocky walls with the mighty Tocllaraju sitting in front as a majestic skyline at just under 6,000m (19,797ft).
After we got our tents set up and moved in, we enjoyed a delicious meal of fresh caught trout and potatoes, prepared by our wonderful camp cook Emilio and his assistant Romel. With tired eyes and full bellies, we happily crawled into our sleeping bags and drifted off to the sound of babbling glacial stream
July 12, 2022 - BC Training Day: Today we slept in and let the warmth of the sun wake us up. After a breakfast of omelets, we began working on some rope skills and practice with knots and hitches. We took advantage of good weather and did another acclimatization hike after lunch up the moraine to Laguna Milluacocha. Along the way we saw views of Ranrapalca and our objective Urus Este. We were welcomed back with some afternoon tea and popcorn. Not a bad day living at 14,000’
July 13, 2022 - Snow School:We left basecamp early this morning to head up 2,000’ to the toe of the Ishinca glacier to get some more acclimatization in before we attempt our summit bid of Ishinca tomorrow. There we practiced cramponing, roped travel, anchor building, and crevasse rescue at 16,000’. It was back to basecamp for an afternoon of rest and an early dinner of Lomo Saltado before bed. Tomorrow (tonight will come early) …
Good things come to those who wait. We waited until 7 AM to start the stoves this morning. There were puffy clouds about, but no wind in the neighborhood. It seemed like we should go climbing.
We left highcamp at 9:20 AM, loaded for bear... or more correctly, covered in goose feathers. The clouds came and went during our march up valley. When they came it was too cold, when they went it was too hot. But eventually, we got high enough that it was just plain cold anyway. But the wind never really developed and so we didn't feel the cold as intensely as we might have. True to the forecast we'd received, the day got cloudier, but we were still surprised to get some stunning views of the sharp peaks to our north. And when we reached the beautiful and fun summit ridge, we were treated to endless views to the South and East, so that we could see a hundred miles worth of the Ellsworth Mountains in that direction. The final ridge was magical today. There was new snow sparkling on all the rock and not a breath of wind, so it was quiet, calm and inviting as we pulled onto the top of Vinson at 5 minutes after 4 PM. We took a million pictures of each other, made a few important phone and radio connections and smiled a lot. We left the top at 4:45 and made good time down to high camp in a cool and gradually thickening cloud. We were home by 7:05 PM and happily eating dinner in our POSH tent not very long afterward.
The day worked out well and we hope for one more good hard climbing day tomorrow, descending to Basecamp.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave HahnAudio Transcription:
Hey this is Dave Hahn calling from the summit of Vinson Massif, the highest point in Antarctica! I am up here with the whole crew - five of us on top today. It is a beautiful Day. We are in the strong sunshine. It is a little after 4:00 in the afternoon for us, and everybody is taking pictures on top and enjoying this place. We have a big view of the Ellsworth Mountains. It is a really enjoyable day up here, Boxing Day – the day after Christmas. Nicole, Bart, Brian, Joe and Dave all send you their best wishes from 16,067’.
Bye for now!
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Dave Hahn calling from the Summit of Vinson Massif
It's another beautiful day and the Four Day Climb teams are enjoying clear skies and light winds as well as a full moon last night. The teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 5:30 AM. With the nice weather they enjoyed some time in the summit crater before starting their descent. The team will continue down to Paradise later this day and conclude their program with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to all the climbers!
Update at 2:45 pm PST:
Dave called with a quick update: The team is back safe at High Camp and doing very well.
11:36 am PST:
Hey, this is Dave Hahn, lucky enough to be on top of the Vinson Massif, highest point in Antarctica- 16,067 ft with the entire team! We've got Larry Seaton. We've got Fatima Williamson. We've got Bill and Sara McGahan. So all of us are up here. We we can't believe our luck. We've got perfect conditions. No wind. I'm going to give you a yell either by voice dispatch or a written dispatch when we get back to camp to let you know we are safe. But right now everything is going extremely well. Everybody's feeling good. Everybody's very happy. All for now. Thank you.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls in from the Vinson Massif summit!
YAY! Congratulations to the whole team. We cannot wait to hear all of the stories!
Safe travels back down the mountain.
We love and miss you and cannot wait to see you!
Lisa/Mom
Posted by: Lisa McGahan on 12/17/2013 at 5:36 pm
Congratulations everyone! Incredibly proud of you and incredibly happy for you! Stay safe and come home soon. Miss you, Sara and Bill!
The American Lung Association Climb for Clean Air team led by RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli and Nikki Champion reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team climbed the Disappointment Cleaver Route and had a beautiful day of climbing.
And boom. We went to over 14,000' today. To be honest, gondola-assisted, but we still logged a few thousand human-powered vert. Warm sun, mild temps, and a calm, steady breeze from the east kept things comfortable. Clouds slowly built throughout the day as we ascended, but never threatened anything more than the occasional chilly gust. The bright orange Chuquiragua flowers, also known as the “the flower of the climber” that grows at over 9,000 feet, were in bloom along the trail and grew thicker as we ascended. We’ll take it as a good omen! Satisfied with our solid effort, we snacked and took in the panoramic views of Quito over 5,000’ below us from our perch on the flanks of Pichincha before heading back downhill.
Our team is strong and deposited valuable funds into the Cotopaxi acclimatization account today. More to come tomorrow as we venture further south through the Avenue of the Volcanoes!
RMI Guides Peter Whittaker, Jess Matthews and Team
Merry Christmas One & All! We are enjoying the day relaxing at the Guanacos Camp on Aconcagua, resting before our last move to Camp 3 and summit push. There is a big of weather up high, but camp is sunny and pleasant. If things clear up tomorrow, then up we go! Cross your fingers for us dear friends!
Thing of all you lowlanders today and can't want to reconnect when we descend.
Enjoy the holidays amigos!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
well big bruce i guess that is how you roll!
Congrads on reaching the summit.
Posted by: Ed Gramm on 2/16/2012 at 6:29 am
Congrats Mark and Team,
It must feel real good to breath easy.
Stay safe and return quickly.
Posted by: Steve & Corene on 2/15/2012 at 7:38 pm
View All Comments