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RMI Guide Alex Barber Leaving Annapurna to Help Those in Need after Nepal Earthquake

Since the earthquake I have been mostly holed up at Annapurna Base Camp. After the quake I couldn't let go of my desire to finish what I've started with Annapurna. I'd put in so much focus and taken on so much risk to be in a position to make a nO's ascent, especially as a team of one. But the reports of the destruction and hardship kept flooding in. Then one morning I could feel myself having let go of Annapurna and my interest shifted to seeing if I could get out of here to assist the people of Nepal. So that's it, my Annapurna expedition is finished. Yesterday I went back up on the mountain to pull my cached equipment at Camp 1. I have another cache at Camp 3, but it's unsafe to go that high on the mountain now, so I'll be abandoning that cache. I've teamed up with a few other Americans here in Nepal to work with a NGO affiliated with the UN. The plan is to meet up in Pokhara, then head out from there with equipment and jeeps supplied by the NGO. My first hurdle is it get out of base camp and down to Pokhara; which is easier said than done. Naturally, the government here has commandeered all the helicopters for rescue efforts. But we flew into base camp in helicopters for a reason, the trek out is sketchy. The US embassy has offered to airlift Americans out of remote areas, but I'm fit and able so I intend to walk out on my own. Tomorrow morning I and some others from the Annapurna Base Camp will be attempting this trek. We're headed for Pokhara. Once we arrive there, I'll meet up with the other American climbers. Our current directive from the NGO is to access some of the remote villages in this region and to report back on their situation, conditions, and immediate needs. Hopefully this will help expedite resources to the people in need. RMI Guide Alex Barber
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Alex, it’s nice to know you’re safe.  Better to climb for another day.  Just like you to walk out on your own.  Be safe and let me know if and when you’re back on Rainier - would love to climb with you (even if it’s only 15K ft).    Godspeed, my friend.

Peace, Lee

Posted by: Lee Hoedl on 5/1/2015 at 8:53 pm

Be safe and our prayer will be with you.

Posted by: Kevin Stone on 4/30/2015 at 8:33 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn and Team Journey to the Edge of the World

Thursday, June 30, 2022 11:25 pm PDT

Another beautiful day, but this was an easy one.  We just rested and solidified our acclimatization today.  And ate and ate and ate.  It was great to see Andy’s RMI team come back into the camp at 14,000 on their way lower.  We congratulated them and wished them a safe journey out. 

In between afternoon naps, the team roped up and walked to the “Edge of the World” overlooking the Kahiltna Glacier’s NE Fork.  Camp at 14,000 is in a broad and mostly flat basin, but at the edge, there is a fairly breathtaking view straight down… seemingly for miles.  The gang enjoyed watching clouds race up the face and catching glimpses of the Cassin and West Rib climbing routes.  Back at camp we had dinner in calm sunshine and prepared for the big move up to 17,200 ft.

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

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Denali Expedition: Schmitt and Team Back Carry

Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:14 pm PT

Our first full day at Camp was a beautiful one! We slept in and then did a back carry to get all of our gear up to our camp here at 14,200'. Then we enjoyed relaxing and enjoying the sun for the rest of the day. 

Tomorrow is going to be a much deserved rest day!

Thanks for following.

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the RMI Team

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Love seeing this top of the world images and imagining all you strong climbers taking it in.  Good luck and thanks for sending these back down to the rest of us cheering for you!

Posted by: Sarah Williams on 6/1/2022 at 6:50 am

Hi Ken!  Really enjoying the updates and pictures of the magnificent scenery!
Hope you and your teammates are all doing well!
Diane & John

Posted by: Diane & John Bertosa on 5/28/2022 at 10:52 am


Mt. Rainier: August 14th Team Watched the Sunrise at Ingraham Flats

Warm temperatures and overhead hazards on the climbing route prevented today's Four Day Climb from reaching the summit safely.  RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and team walked to Ingraham Flats to enjoy the sunrise and make the most of their time on the Mountian. They had and early departure from Camp Muir and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Waiting on Weather

Monday, July 1, 2019 - 9:24 PM PT Denali is a mountain that definitely tests a group's patience. We woke up around 6 to look at the weather and Denali was still a bit too testy up high for us to make our move. This is to be expected when climbing big mountains and our team has accepted this challenge of waiting like a cobra to strike at our good weather window.... which will hopefully be tomorrow. The team is in great spirits and spent the day resting up and sport eating so we have the energy to get to the summit. Although not as nice as 14k camp, 17k is treating us well. Keep your fingers crossed for us for tomorrow! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team Siete

On The Map

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Well let’s just say, “Buzzard Butthairs” to another day at 17,200, and good for you for patience and persistence. No Denali Demons allowed, and may you soon reach your goal. Keep up that strong spirit.

GO TYM!  GO TEAM!

Love Mom and Zeppelin

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 7/2/2019 at 9:59 am

Wayne, Zach and Ian-how are those snacks tasting?  Hope you can summit today. Best wishes to the entire team. The summit awaits you!!!

Posted by: Aunt Kathy on 7/2/2019 at 8:49 am


Mt. Rainier: Teams Brave the Cold to Come Out on Top

RMI guides Mike King and Mike Haugen called from the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They reported some chilly temperatures, moderate winds and beautiful weather for climbing this morning. Despite the cold temperatures, the team enjoyed a great climbing route. Congratulations climbers!

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Ecuador Seminar: Knoff & Team Acclimate on Rucu Pichincha

Buenos Dias Bloglandia,

I’m sure many of you out there have been gnawing on your steering wheels and passing up Instagram to check on today’s happenings of the Ecuador skills seminar. Well, wait no longer because the moment has arrived. 

Beginning with last nights dinner (food and drink report) the team all gathered around a big table in a classic Ecuadorian restaurant, sharing stories and laughs eventually waiting for Dan’s guinea pig to arrive, his main course.  After realizing it didn’t really taste like chicken, we all focused back into our potatoes and meat happy we didn’t follow the adventurous Dan’s lead. 

Come morning we all returned to the table for breakfast while preparing for our bus ride to the giant volcano just out of the city where our first team climb would take place.  

After 15 minutes of solid Quito traffic we arrived at the trailhead.  Except here, as it should be on all mountains, the trailhead is actually the ticket office to the cable car waiting to zip us up the first 3,000 feet so our legs won’t get too tired.  No one botched getting into the moving car so we were off to a good start.  

With swirling clouds and occasional views of the city thousands of feet below, we all made quick and steady progress up to the 14,000 foot mark.  Soon afterwards my GPS began to rock a lady Gaga song as we broke the 15,000 foot barrier, marking the altitude PR for half the team.  Thirty minutes later we were all giving high 5’s on the summit of our first real mountain.   Pichincha Rucu, 15,300 feet!

The descent was uneventful except for a hummingbird which almost flew full speed into my face but crisis averted due to my lightning reflexes.  Maybe that’s exaggerated.  

Anyhoo, the team did great and gets the green light from both Hannah and me to climb again tomorrow.  I expect the same results barring anything loco!!

If Yellowstone wasn’t enough, give Ozark a try.  It will get you through until tomorrow.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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I remember the ride. I got sea sick. It sure saved on the legs.

Posted by: JOHN H NEWLAND on 2/11/2022 at 7:18 am


Mt. Everest:  Sherpa Support Fund

Thank you for your calls, inquires and support regarding the tragedy on Mt. Everest last week. American Alpine ClubIf you would like to make a donation to be used to help the families who lost loved ones in the avalanche and those who were injured, you can do so through the American Alpine Club - Sherpa Support Fund. Thank you, The RMI Expeditions Team
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Nicole Lobiondo: Hope your trip is a once in a life-time event. The Kenny’s wish you a safe trip home and are praying for your safe return. I am sure you are taking lots of photo’s.Love Terry Kenny, Adriana and Gabby

Posted by: Terry Kenny on 4/23/2014 at 8:55 am

Nicole Lobiondo: Thinking of you all during this time. Stay safe and positive. Love, Nicole

Posted by: Nicole Howard on 4/23/2014 at 6:09 am


50 Years of Climbing: Lance and Annette Berg and Mt. Rainier

2010: On the Summit of Pico de Orizaba, Mexico. Lance is holding the RMI flag. ---- In honor of our 50th Anniversary, we are featuring stories of first climbs. Stories from guides and stories from climbers. Today we are excited to share Annette Berg’s story of her late husband, Lance’s first climb of Mt. Rainier. Annette will be climbing Mt. Rainier on a Five Day Climb later this month in honor of her 25th wedding anniversary and in memory of her husband, Lance. Find out more about having your first climb featured on our blog! ---- When we were married in 1994, RMI was 25 years old. This year would have been our 25th wedding anniversary, but unfortunately my husband, Lance, passed away three years ago. So it seems befitting, with RMI’s 50th and my 25th anniversary, to share our story – mostly Lance’s climbing journey, which played a huge part in our life. It all started with a hike up Green Mountain in the Glacier Peak Wilderness of Washington State in August of 2000. Family members wanted us to hike this mountain. Our shoes were all wrong, the packs were terrible, and we did not have enough water. In the days following this monumental first hike, both of us opted to crawl up the stairs in our house. The soreness was ridiculous and lasted for days. Once we recovered from Green Mountain, we decided we actually enjoyed the pain and suffering. So we bought proper hiking gear and started hiking regularly. It got a lot easier with time. 2010: Lance at Plaza Argentina, BaseCamp on Aconcagua. One afternoon in 2001, we found ourselves on the Skyline Trail of Mt. Rainier. On that afternoon everything changed. We ran into groups of descending climbers. This was new! We both knew nothing of the climbing world and we both were instantly fascinated by them. Somehow they were like mythical creatures. They looked cool and had the coolest stuff attached to their big backpacks: ice axes, crampons, helmets, ropes. They had seen places that truly not a lot of people get to see. Earthly folks on the Skyline Trail made way to let them pass. It was impressive. Suddenly hiking took on a whole new dimension. It was still just hiking, but we started to educate ourselves about Mt. Rainier, Mt. Everest, mountaineering equipment, Camp Muir, Ed Viesturs, etc. We figured out that RMI existed in Ashford. We attended the first Rainier Mountain Festival that RMI had (even before there was the Bar and Grill). Ed Viesturs was there and we had our picture taken with him. He was our new idol. Annette Berg at Rainier BaseCamp in Ashford, WA. All along we heard stories about the Muir Snowfield. We heard about the dangers of it. In our minds, only those mythical creatures could walk up the Snowfield to get to Camp Muir. One day, we hiked up to Pebble Creek and dared to walk onto the Muir Snowfield. We probably went up about a quarter of a mile and then, for no apparent reason, became freaked out by our own boldness and returned promptly to Pebble Creek. We did however, feel quite accomplished with our quarter mile venture. Throughout the years, the hiking continued. The mountaineering knowledge increased. We actually dared to go to Camp Muir many times, sometimes a few times a week. We still admired all the mythical creatures that were at Camp Muir ready to climb the Mountain. Then in 2008, Lance decided he would climb Mt. Rainier and become one of those mythical creatures. He went all in and signed up for a climb with Ed Viesturs and Peter Whittaker in August 2008. I guess I was his base camp manager. I helped him with all the packing, repacking, and food selection. We combed through the agenda and checklists for hours to make sure he had everything. It was exhilarating. 2008: Mt. Rainier. From L to R: Peter Whittaker, Melissa Arnot Reid, Lance Berg, and Ed Viesturs. On a hot and sunny morning, when the Viesturs/Whittaker team went up to Camp Muir, I was at Pebble Creek taking pictures like paparazzi as they passed by. I wished them luck and waived them off. By the time I returned to Paradise, it was noisy and very busy. I had binoculars and from the parking lot I could see the upper end of the Muir Snowfield. I think that was the moment I fell in love with the Mountain. I saw the groups of climbers, like centipedes, silent and graceful, above all the commotion of Paradise. Up there the centipedes seem to be one with nature and worshipping the Mountain. I was convinced that the tourists down below had no clue about what goes on up there. Lance made his first summit. Then mountaineering became a passion. He loved climbing with RMI. He loved the adventure and the social aspect. He preferred to climb with RMI rather than privately because he knew a lot of the guides. If a jacket, shirt, or hat had the RMI logo on it, he had to buy it. If I wanted to be seen in his company, I had to have items with the RMI logo. I was part of all his training and planning. Heck, I have seen so many orientations at RMI, I could give that presentation. Every summer, RMI BaseCamp in Ashford was our happy place. We would drive the two and a half hours to Mt. Rainier many times for a day of hiking, or to go up to Camp Muir, and then returned to RMI for food and beer. We attended many more Mountain Festivals. 2012: Lance celebrates his 6th summit of Mt. Rainier. This summit was via the Emmons Route. Lance ended up climbing Mt Rainier seven times with RMI. One of the climbs was the Emmons route. Every time he came down, I was waiting for him at BaseCamp with a beer ready and sandals so he could free his feet from his climbing boots. One day, there were even a few of the Seattle Seahawks Cheerleaders at BaseCamp, but that’s a different story entirely. Lance’s other RMI climbs included Mt. Shuksan, Cotopaxi and Cayambe in Ecuador, Ixtaccihuatl and Pico de Orizaba in Mexico, and Aconcagua in Argentina. 2010: Lance on the summit of Aconcagua. Just to make it clear, Lance’s death in 2016 was not due to mountaineering. Since then, I have continued to return to Mt. Rainier and RMI BaseCamp in the summers to hike. Sometimes I’m alone, sometimes with family or friends. The Mountain will always be one of the most amazing places I have been to and it holds a special place in my heart. This year with our 25th wedding anniversary, my plan is to summit Mt. Rainier in Lance’s memory. I want to take Lance’s picture to the summit. The Mountain has brought him and me so much happiness. I need to stand on top so I can feel closer to the mythical creature my husband has become. Annette Berg
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I loved reading this touching article you wrote Annette and seeing the pictures as well. I’m glad that climbing Mt Rainier gave both you and my brother Lance much happiness and still continues to give you many good memories. You are a strong woman and are amazing to climb Mt Rainier so many times!  I will always remember hiking lower Mt Rainier with you and our family in memory of Lance. Memories of Lance and that hike will stay in my heart forever ❤

Posted by: Cherie Berg Wasmund on 7/9/2019 at 7:09 pm

I love that Lance’s passion for the mountain and climbing lives on through you Annette. We will be at up at Camp Muir cheering you on and are looking forward to celebrating with you afterwards!

Posted by: Bret Berg on 7/9/2019 at 6:44 pm


Kilimanjaro: Hahn and Team Finish Descent and Prepare for Safari

More than a few of us got up this morning saying we’d slept better than on any other night on the mountain. 

Mweka Camp was calm and quiet… except for the now familiar sounds of our kitchen crew going to work to get breakfast on.  We enjoyed one last meal on the mountain and then threw packs on for the final walk down.  We needed to get rid of four thousand feet of elevation.  Almost immediately, we were into the rain forest and the trail was slick and a little treacherous as a result.  We picked our way carefully down muddy stairs as porters from various expeditions ran at full speed a few inches to one side of our team. We reached the Mweka Gate at 11:15 a.m. and signed out with the Kilimanjaro National Park.  A short bus ride took us to our celebration lunch hosted by our fabulous mountain staff. They sang a few traditional songs and got our gang dancing.  We took the opportunity to distribute tips and thank the entire team of hard working men. 

A two hour bus ride got us back to Rivertrees Inn and showers and fresh clothing.  We relaxed and started the process of shifting gears from climbing to safari-going. 

We’ll head out first thing tomorrow to see what we can see at Lake Manyara. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn and team

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