Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Brent & Team Summit!

June 14, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leon Davis, Lindsay Mann

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Hi, this is Brent from 17,000' on Mt. McKinley and I just wanted to report that we did summit here last night and we actually just going to bed right now, [it's] about 3:30 in the morning. It was a bit of an epic night with some trail breaking and some cold winds but everyone did really well and we are all safe back at camp. So congratulations to the team here, we will be descending down to probably 11,000' [camp] tomorrow. Alright, talk to you later. Bye bye. - RMI Guide Brent Okita

Brent from High Camp after Summit Day

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Gary, Congrats! It’s been awesome to follow along! Rory keeps asking me “how does Uncle Gary do that?” He’s excited to get back to the climbing wall! Love, Lorrie, Chas, Carson and Rory

Posted by: Lorrie, Chas, Carson & Rory on 6/16/2012 at 4:37 pm

Congratulations Kristen! We want to hear all about it when you get back to the Upper Valley.

Posted by: ASOLO USA on 6/15/2012 at 1:39 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team - War and Peace

June 12, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leon Davis, Lindsay Mann

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Held hostage by the fickle nature of the weather for ten (or is it eleven now?) days at 17,200' my brain is in hardly any shape to draw all the parallels to that epic saga and our own story here. But some stand out: Ours has become a very long story of the challenges we face when not all elements in our world are in our control. And in our struggle to deal with these challenges, we face a bit of an emotional roller coaster as optimism fades when a new reality asserts itself. This morning the hope of a nice summit day came crashing down as we received heavy snow and high winds starting in the wee hours of the morning. Tyler Jones at 14,200' camp reported over two feet of new snow and 50 mph winds. So, once again we dug out camp with face protection, heavy gloves or mittens, and ski goggles on before breakfast. It was here that, given what we've been through up here, and the reality of just how long a human being can actually live at this altitude and harsh environment, we chose Thursday as our 'up or down' day. But, this still gives us a chance to summit. Tomorrow might not be perfect, but, Thursday has been forecasted to offer 'light and variable' winds. I'm generally an optimist, but at this point even I can succumb to a heaviness in my outlook after having so many of my summit plans thwarted. But, as we discover in Tolstoy's classic, sometimes what matters most is not some obvious achievement, but rather a deeper sense of accomplishment or understanding that comes with living life well, and to the fullest. Let's hope tomorrow our dispatch will be a bit more succinct. Like just one word. Love, kisses and heavy thoughts from your team at 17,200'. RMI Guide Brent Okita

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Nice work Kristen, we’re all excited for you here in Norwich. Put some rocks in Brent’s pack and tell him Stu says hello.

Posted by: Stuart Close on 6/15/2012 at 5:52 pm

I am the mother of one of the climbers from Alpine Ascents who made the summit on Saturday, June 2—I think the last team to summit. He has been back home for a week now and you guys/gals are still up there (we hope). Just want you to know that we have all (son, father, mother, neighbors for goodness sake!) been following and cheering for your team and checking on you every day. You have provided immense entertainment—and inspiration. We think if you make the summit you are the team of the season. Our very best wishes…

Posted by: Sue Seitz on 6/14/2012 at 4:15 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Hold on at 14K Camp

June 12, 2012

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Last night dropped over a foot of new snow and the morning dumped close to six more inches. As we hide in the midday heat of the tents, the wind blows 50+mph in gusts. One minute it is calm, the next minute we brace against the walls of the tent as the wind tries to push them flat. After a few rounds of shoveling, we break for a toasted bagel breakfast, then more shoveling, building snow walls and hiding from the gusts. The sky has cleared as we watch enormous plumes blow off the Buttress above us as well as enormous avalanches coming down from the upper slopes. Other climbers and our team our able to enjoy the show, knowing that we are a safe distance from the action. The snow currently continues to patter our tents. We are hopeful that better weather is coming on the horizon. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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From the beautiful island of Zakynthos,and a girl that knows what it means to fulfil a dream. May god watch over you and your team and bring you to the summit safely.On your next trip to Zakynthos CHRIS I want to hear all about this climb. May god be with you.
Love & hugs & kisses xx Janet

Posted by: Janet Mastromauro on 6/15/2012 at 12:51 pm

Hi Chris !!!

Hope the weather is cooperating for you and your team.
Take care and keep safe.

Posted by: Debbie Gaudette on 6/14/2012 at 7:47 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Rest at 11,000’

June 12, 2012

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Throughout the night the clouds surrounding camp started to produce snow and dropped over a foot around our tents. Plans are always in flux up here and our carry higher on the mountain has been postponed. The crew is unfazed, merrily digging out our home and relaxing with a big salmon and bagel breakfast. Another round of digging and a bit of rest before our upcoming potluck lunch. Down days can be productive, storing up strength for higher up on Denali and fine tuning the essential camp skills required for the future. That's all for now, cross your fingers for a break in the weather and we'll check in later. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Yo Eric & Elias! Keep up the good work. We’re pulling for you! Can’t wait to see the summit pictures! Wayne, Ian & Zach

Posted by: Wayne on 6/14/2012 at 5:17 am

Ross and K. Hopefully everything is working out in the tent. Fate kept me here for this one. I cant wait to hear the stories. Remember to keep your water bottles and the tuna salad in your bags!! Stay warm guys! - Dave

Posted by: dave kolar on 6/13/2012 at 8:06 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Receive A Big Helping Hand

June 11, 2012

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Today we awoke to 6 inches of new snow at 14k camp. We have continued to eat well. Today our breakfast consisted of egg, cheese and bacon burritos. Over the course of the morning the clouds dissipated and the wind calmed down a little. Eric and I decided to head up and move the cache we previously left at 16k, up to our high camp. We also added an extra food bag and fuel can to our supplies up high. With Brent Okita and team up at high camp for the last several days, waiting for their window to summit, they offered a big helping hand. Thanks Brent, Leon, and Lindsay! Due to high winds in the morning, they volunteered to walk down from high camp and help Eric and me carry our whole cache from 16k to 17k. We can not thank them enough for their help! Our efforts were somewhat tiering, but will allow the team to move more smoothly to 17k when weather allows. Rather than stopping at 16k and schlepping our cache and our full camp kit to 17k, now the team will be able to conserve energy by smoothly moving to 17k. Upon our return to the team at 14k, we discovered that our third guide, Logan, had rebuilt our snow kitchen and cooked up a nice dinner. What a pleasant surprise. The crew is in high spirits and getting anxious to move to higher ground and make a summit attempt in the next few days. The ground work and logistics are in order. We just need a few nice days to execute our plan. We look forward to moving into more inhospitable environments and nearing the top of North America. Our careful planning has paid off and all our ducks are in a row. The team had a nice moral boost with an afternoon reading of all the positive vibes from the blog comments. Thank you all! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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We certainly enjoy the blog updates. Hope the weather cooperates soon! Michael, our thoughts are with you and all the others. Love, Mom & Dad

Posted by: Eual/Paula Conditt on 6/13/2012 at 8:56 pm

We are enjoying the blog. It makes us feel like we can almost talk to you. Wishing you a successful trip Jeff/dad/team. We are cheering you on. Love Debbie, Andrew, and Madison

Posted by: Debbie Boskind on 6/12/2012 at 2:14 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team - A break!

June 11, 2012

Posted by: Brent Okita

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Last night we received another foot of snow, though it wasn't nearly as windy as the previous night. Although it was a significant storm, come morning something about it felt different causing me to check the weather regularly. Sure enough, by the time we got up at 9:30 the skies had cleared and it was beautiful. Except for the winds blowing the new snow around Denali Pass and the ridge above. It was yet just a little too windy for us, plus all the trail breaking of the previous days was gone, so we hung out at camp and enjoyed our nicest day at 17,200' yet. Another day for the snow to settle will help reduce any avalanche risk as well However, a report by another guide that poked his nose into the conditions affirms what we have been seeing already, and eases my mind considerably. After a breakfast of grits, Leon, Lindsay and I went down to 16,200' to help out our next group led by Tyler Jones by bringing their cache of food and fuel up to 17,200'. This eases their move day enormously, and gets some provisions up here in case our already less than stellar luck with the weather turns south even further. And now, for the first time all trip, I'm very optimistic about our chances for the summit. Things seem like they are finally falling info place. Of course, tomorrow is another day ... Right now it is warm and windless, and we are getting ready for dinner. Wish us luck!!! RMI Guide Brent Okita

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Brent, Malcolm and I are thinking of you. Can you believe your mother is following you by EMAIL? Come down safely.
Lots of love from us both.

Posted by: Marjorie Okita on 6/12/2012 at 1:19 pm

Our prayers and high hopes are with you and your team. Good luck, good karma, and good weather tomorrow. Bobcat

Posted by: Robert Bender on 6/12/2012 at 12:41 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Make Back Carry

June 11, 2012

Posted by: Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

We awoke at dawn. Not all that impressive because dawn is at least 8 hours a day this time of year. Once awake we had a beautiful cruise down to our cache at the corner of the Kahiltna Glacier with great visibility in the early morning light. We loaded our packs and reveled in the absence of the sleds/anchors and even picked up the pace a bit to help with our acclimatization. Back at camp it was second breakfast, a nap and a bit of technical review before dinner. Tomorrow, if the mountain allows, we will carry towards 14 camp and return to 11,200 feet to recover. That's all from here, the team is doing great and looking to take it higher tomorrow! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Way to go Eric! We are all following along with your journey here. Your two nephews and goddaughter wish you good luck and are anxiously awaiting your return. Noah and Ethan climbed the big sand dune at Warren Dunes this past weekend and Noah asked if it was as big as the mountain you were climbing. I told him it was close…

Posted by: Zach Schafer on 6/12/2012 at 8:24 am

Bob, keep it up bro, I know you can do it, one step at a time. You have a great team and the best of guides…to the top!

Posted by: John Spinks on 6/12/2012 at 5:56 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Visit the Edge of the World

June 11, 2012

Posted by: Eric Frank, Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

From 14k camp on Denali's West Buttress, it is only a short walk to one of the best views in the entire range. The perch is called "The Edge of the World". The plateau on which camp sits falls away dramatically. Nearly 5,000 vertical feet below lies the infamous Valley of Death. This afternoon our team walked to the edge of the world and took turns getting belayed out to the edge to take in the view. This afternoon the valley floor was obstructed by clouds which would sporadically rise to engulf us, but several times we were able to glimpse parts of the wall thousands of feet below us. The weather in camp has continued to be squirrelly. Last night we were buffeted by winds up to 50mph from various directions. Thankfully, we had already built a few snow walls to protect the tents, but the incessant flapping on nylon all night has convinced us to build more. The snow is falling fast now as we settle in for the night when we rise we will just see what the day brings. RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Eric Frank and Logan Randolph

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Reading your experience gives me confort because I know you’re being secure, and I envy the stunning views you have from that elevation. Bonne nuit Nicô!- Hélène

Posted by: Hélène Larocque-Nolin on 6/11/2012 at 7:06 pm

Thanks for the updates! Hopefully the weather will be in your favor in the days ahead! Michael stay warm and strong and I can’t wait to see the pictures from the edge of the world!!

Posted by: Scott on 6/11/2012 at 6:39 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Experience Unexpected Storm

June 11, 2012

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Last night as we were drifting off to sleep our first big storm with high winds and some snow hit us out of the blue. Even with the protective walls around our tents the winds were strong enough to buffet them and make you wonder how much stronger the winds would need to be to collapse them. But we had done everything right and all the wind served to do was keep us from sleeping as well as we might. Oh, and I guess it kept us from the summit once again. My biggest concern was for our Posh tent that relies on a single pole to support the paper thin fabric of the body. But, thankfully, besides about 600 pounds of Snow drifted onto one side, the thing held up well. So, we're still in business with our dining/cook tent. And a good thing that was when Kristen brought out her deck of cards for a few afternoon games of poker. Just some routine maintenance around camp, shoveling, repairing sagging walls, had us out for a little while after poker, but we're all back in the tents relaxing and even getting in a little sleep. All for now from 17,200' (where we're waiting patiently for better weather to find us) Until next time, RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Lindsay P.S. As I send this a few hours later the latest weather forecast indicates that Tuesday or Wednesday may bode well for an attempt. That's good because that's about how much food we have left for up here. But we'll have some major trail breaking to do given the snow, It'll be a du challenge.

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Way to stick it out up there! Ive been off the mountain for almost a week now and was surprised to hear you guys were still up there! For all that you guys have endured staying at 17 that long I really hope you get a chance today or tomorrow, you deserve it!!!

Posted by: Evan on 6/12/2012 at 3:04 pm

Even when here in San Diego is COLD (68) I am a good sport and wish all of you the best Summit ever, Good Luck ~!!
P.S. Hey AA, I hope you have the car key over there !!!

Posted by: Paco Santoyo on 6/11/2012 at 6:59 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 11,000’

June 10, 2012

Posted by: Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

A big aloha from 11 Camp! We woke to our first clear morning of the trip, with brightly colored lenticular clouds stacked over Mount Forraker. It was cold and clear in our neck of the woods and we traveled well on our way to our cache at 10,000 feet. With slightly lighter loads we dispatched the final hill into camp and moved right in to camp. Now we rest during the heat of the day and recover after a great, but tough day. Tomorrow, if the weather permits we will retrieve our cache and ready ourselves for life higher up. Take care everyone, RMI Guides Jake Beren, Elias de Andres Martos, Thomas Greene and Team

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Message for tony crumley David called made it to his new afghan camp. Em has been admitted to hosp. Keep climbing we are proud of uou! Love you

Posted by: Jill crumley on 6/11/2012 at 1:00 pm

Bob, glad to hear the progress you and the team are making, keep it up. My prayers and thoughts are continually with you.

John

Posted by: John Spinks on 6/11/2012 at 8:57 am

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Brent & Team Summit!

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team - War and Peace

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Hold on at 14K Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Rest at 11,000’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Receive A Big Helping Hand

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team - A break!

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Make Back Carry

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Visit the Edge of the World

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Experience Unexpected Storm

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 11,000’

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