Entries from Mt. McKinley
Tuesday May 23, 2017 3:32pm
We got a little snow overnight, and it's relatively pleasant outside today. The summit is still wearing a lenticular cap today and major storm with snow and extreme wind is forecast to hit us tomorrow. We've fortified camp and we're ready for what it brings. Our hope is that in its wake we will have a shot at the
summit.
We'll let you know how it plays out.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Yesterday's hard day of work left everyone tired, and nearly everyone slept really hard last night. We woke up late, lingered over a breakfast of pancakes, and then set to work improving our camp. We put up some big walls to keep out the wind, and built a nice covered toilet to keep things comfortable. With the project finished, we ate a quick lunch, then strolled downhill to retrieve our cache. We're in really good shape now, with a well
fortified camp and all of our belongings here with us. Now, we wait for our opportunity.
We'll be in touch,
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Jenny Konway, and team
On The Map
Two days of carrying huge loads is finally over. We have single carried to
Camp 2 at 9600' and are ready to start packing lighter loads as we begin the routine of making double carries to get all our gear and food up the mountain.
What has impressed me most about this team is not just their strength, but their ability to endure and toil under mammoth loads without complaint. This is a special group.
Our weather has been snowy, but not bad enough to keep us in our tents. That said, we did set up our Posh House this afternoon which serves as our cook tent and dining room in one. It's warmth and comfort allow us some fun and social time that provides a really nice balance to our climbing.
And what was on the menu tonight? Burritos with all the fixings. Yeah, we eat well up here. We sure as hec deserve it.
Ok. That's a wrap for the night. Tomorrow we move to 11,200' camp, if the weather gods allow.
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt
On The Map
May 22, 2017
We're just checking in from
14,000' Camp again. We're all doing well here, hopefully waiting for a decent weather window in order to try to go for the top. We had some snow last night and today, and winds were strong up above us. It looks like a very strong storm is set to move in here in a couple days, bringing a lot of snow and extreme winds. We're hoping for better weather in its wake.
In preparation of the next storm we spent more time today reinforcing our walls. We should be all set to weather the storm.
We'll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
May 21, 2017
We had another pretty perfect day for climbing in Alaska, and we made full use of it to get up to 14,000' and dig in a new camp. It was pleasantly warm and light clouds kept it from totally frying us. After maneuvering around some initial traffic on
Squirrel Hill, we were able to hit cruise control and roll past our cache from two days ago. Once at 14,000' Camp came the arduous task of digging new tent platforms and a kitchen. Our task tomorrow is to retrieve our cache and build some really, really big walls. It sounds like we've got a stronger weather system headed our way this week, so we'll prep to wait it out.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jenny Konway, Jess Matthews and team
On The Map
May 20, 2017
We were all excited at breakfast with the thought of
flying on to Denali today. With cloudy weather in town nothing was certain, so when the flight service greeted us with a big thumbs up, we jumped into action.
When we hit the glacier the team climbed like they were born to do it. We had a flawless climb to camp, without any of the hiccups that are just normal as we get our feet wet starting out on a big expedition with the loads we're sporting. This sure made carrying these outrageous loads easier.
So now we're in the tents resting up for another big day. The crew is psyched to get up to camp at 9600', and has certainly demonstrated the strength to do it.
I'm lucky to be in the company of such a strong, nice bunch of climbers.
Talk to you from 9600'.
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale an JT Schmitt
On The Map
May 21, 2017
We had another chilly day at
14 Camp as the the sun never poked out from the overcast sky. We spent a several of hours reinforcing the snow walls surround our tents in anticipation of a significant upcoming storm. We're planning to hunker down, weather the storm, and hope to have decent weather for a summit push on the flip side. Time will tell...
As we were reinforcing our camp, we were joined by the RMI Denali team led by Pete Van Deventer as they moved into 14 Camp. They're busy building camp and adjusting to the thin air up here as I write this.
We'll keep you in the loop with how the weather treats us.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
...Happy anniversary Kelly!
On The Map
May 20, 2017
A visit to the
National Park Service to sign in for our expedition followed our team meeting this morning. Good stuff was covered at both get togethers, and set the tone for a safe, fun, and otherwise successful trip.
And then the work began, starting with checking the ton of gear we all have, the group gear and food we'll be taking, and packing all this stuff up so we can actually move someplace tomorrow. We certainly couldn't have fit more into the day.
As we were working, the clouds of the morning finally gave way to clear skies this evening, just in time for us to enjoy a last dinner together under an Alaskan sun that never really sets. Halibut, reindeer meatloaf and local brews were on order - menu items we'll not see for some time.
We're all really enjoying one another's company already, and I look forward to starting our climb in the morning, provided the skies stay reasonably clear overnight.
We'll be in touch tomorrow, hopefully from the Kahiltna Glacier.
RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT
May 20, 2017
The 11,000' Camp Diner opened for business late this morning, though still before the sun warmed its patrons' bones. The menu had one question: with or without. Bagels and cream cheese with or without bacon. It turned into a beautiful day, and we got some National Geographic worthy photos of
Mt. Foraker and the Kahiltna stretching out below us. Lots of naps, reading, movies, and some time catching up with our good friends and RMI Guides Robby and Lucas from Mike W's team rounded out the day. Tomorrow, back to the grindstone, as we move up to 14,000' and dig in. Everyone is looking forward to the good living of 14 Camp.
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Jenny and team
On The Map
May 19, 2017
The rain fell as we debarked from the plane after touching down at Anchorage International Airport. With three hours before meeting the team Christina, JT and I reviewed paperwork and plans for the trip.
Then, one by one folks started showing up, with everyone gathered well before our 4:30 departure. A good sign of things you come.
We had plenty of time to get to know each other while awaiting our shuttle to
Talkeetna and I was struck by the ease of conversation between everyone right from the start.
Having climbed with most everyone already it was fun to catch up with folks. By dinner time the mood was even looser as we enjoyed a nice meal at the West Rib.
Most of the team showed restraint in passing up calls to have 'one' at the world famous Fairview Inn, but for those of us who showed weakness and entered those decadent halls, a proper tradition was upheld. The music wasn't half bad either.
It's now time for some rest as tomorrow promises to be quite busy as we prepare for our flight on to the mountain on Sunday. I'm really looking forward to getting that one step closer to the climb we've all been waiting for for so long.
Goodnight from Talkeetna, elevation 300'.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Previous Page
Next Page
Mike and Gang: I remember hunkering down for a week at that very same location just five years ago - stay patient and optimistic. Mike, I wish I were climbing with you again. However, I leave in two months with Pete to take on Elbrus. Stay in touch and keep your team focused and motivated! Prayers and positive vibes your way, team - you’ve got this!
Peace, Lee Hoedl, Fellow RMI Climber (Denali, Aconcagua, Cotopaxi, etc…)
Posted by: Lee Hoedl on 5/24/2017 at 3:03 pm
Following you, Mike. Glad you are all hunkered down - hoping you get your weather break soon. Sure is beautiful there!!
Posted by: Ann Douglass on 5/24/2017 at 5:07 am
View All Comments