Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Beat Feet to Basecamp

July 7, 2012

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike Uchal, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

Adam Knoff called into the office just before 6PM. With a storm expected, the team was hoping to make it to basecamp in order to fly off in front of the storm. The weather didn't quite hold and it began to snow in the last hour upon reaching basecamp. The team's plan to unwind in Talkeetna has been thwarted until further notice.

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Adam and team, was glad to read the posting that you were down to base camp. Sorry your summit hopes didn’t work out this time. Thanks for blogging and helping your mom not worry so much :). Hope to see or hear from you soon Adam. I hope you got out today? Love Kris

Posted by: Kris Bowditch on 7/9/2012 at 8:17 pm

Nels,
I know you are probably pissed about your current situation, but I can’t wait for you to be back on the grid! I miss you and I have so much to tell you! Stay safe and keep writing.
xoxo EB

Posted by: Erica on 7/8/2012 at 6:40 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Back Carry Supplies to 14K Camp

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Our first night at 14 camp went well. Not that folks didn't notice the altitude and the cold here in Genet Basin, but everybody showed up for bacon and bagels breakfast in a reasonably cheerful state. We didn't get up early, since it takes the sun until about 9:30 AM to get far enough around Denali's South Peak to shine on us. And we took our sweet time getting geared up for our "back carry" -the mission to retrieve our cache below Windy Corner from three days ago. We left 14K at 10 minutes past noon and made fine time getting down around the corner. It was another windless day where we were, but we could see that the gang at 17 camp was catching it in the teeth. The cache was right where we'd left it and it didn't look like the ravens had even bothered trying to dig into it. We loaded up and began the slow walk back uphill over the now familiar terrain. We were back a little before 5 PM. Job done and the approach finished. Now we can focus on the climb. Via the radio, we knew that Adam Knoff and his crew were quitting high camp and descending ahead of a multi-day storm. They had our sympathy, obviously, but we looked forward to seeing them at 14. They didn't stay too long as they wanted to get down around the end of the West Buttress before the snow started falling. The evening was the calm before whatever storm we'll get though. We still had good views of Mount Foraker, across the way, but it and every other peak, was stacked high with lenticular clouds... something is coming. But we've got everything we need to deal with such things, and we are dug into our fortress at fourteen. Best, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sounds like you guys might be getting a nice cool breeze up there !
Hunker down & good luck on the stroll up.

Posted by: Blackie on 7/7/2012 at 3:47 pm

May the storm pass quickly and uneventfully so that you can make your way to the top soon. We miss you Cathy. Looking forward to your triumphant return :)

Posted by: Monica on 7/7/2012 at 2:12 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Descend to 14K Camp

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike Uchal, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

This is Adam calling in from 17,000’ on Denali. We woke this morning to continued snow and wind, with a major low pressure system forecast to dominate the region over the next several days. We have endured this weather at high camp since Monday and have decided to descend back to 14K camp. Even the approach route, between 14,000’ and basecamp, can be a bear to navigate in foul weather, and we need to stay strong and focused. We’ll begin our descent of the West Buttress and the infamous fixed lines to reach Advanced Base at 14,200’ where Dave Hahn’s RMI party is encamped. We’ll check in tomorrow and advise everyone of our plans and progress. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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John and crew, Stay strong! I am pulling for the weather to begin to work in your favor. You have been so patient ....hang in there! love, dee

Posted by: Deann on 7/7/2012 at 12:46 pm

Nelson, sympathy for Mother Nature at 17,000 camp. I know you toughed out cold and wind, and I hope you can recharge and warm a bit at 14,000 camp. I know you may be disappointed, but few have ever been to 17,000 on Denali. Hang in there and maybe the weather will break and reward perseverance. Love you, stay safe. Dad

Posted by: Bill on 7/7/2012 at 10:10 am

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Move to 14 Camp

July 6, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

It wasn't a flawless day. There were plenty of clouds about, and it looked mean and nasty up high on the mountain, but it was certainly nice enough where we were. We left 11 camp at ten minutes past ten, ground on up motorcycle and squirrel hills in low gear and came out into the polo fields below the end of the West Buttress. Another good uphill walk took us past our cache point from the other day and into definitely-not-windy-corner. We went around the corner in perfect conditions, but all agreed it was pretty tough traversing the snowy side hill with a sled threatening to pull one off the track. It began to snow on us a bit, but by this point it was welcome as it kept us from overheating as we wound around, between and over the top of giant crevasses on the final hour into our destination. We pulled into camp at 14,200 ft at a few minutes past five, completing our biggest day yet. Temps were noticeably cooler up so high and there was a light breeze blowing through 14 camp, so we couldn't pause long enough to pat ourselves on the back or to gaze up in wonder at the West Buttress and the South Peak of Denali... we needed to get tents up and anchored down. We simultaneously got that done, a kitchen up and running to melt large quantities of snow (we were all parched), a dining area dug in and covered and a latrine in place. We are getting well practiced at high altitude, cold-camp construction. Just as we sat down for dinner at 8 PM, it was time to turn on a radio to catch the nightly forecast for mountain weather. It isn't a terribly stable outlook, but we do hope Adam Knoff's RMI team at 17,200 ft can hang in there and get lucky. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Hi Brian and team - hope everyone is feeling healthy and energized. Sounds like the days are definitely getting tougher and colder. Connor wakes up every morning and wants to look at the pictures on the blog, I think you may have a climbing partner for your next adventure. We love you and miss you.

Posted by: Robin, Tristan & Connor on 7/7/2012 at 5:30 am

Sounds like you had a long day and all did well. Continued patience and success. Inch by inch.
Enjoy and be safe.

Posted by: Carolyn on 7/6/2012 at 8:59 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team As the Wind Blows

July 5, 2012

Posted by: Mike Uchal, Adam Knoff, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

This is the June 19th Denali Expedition welcoming you to the first episode, of the new hit saga, "As the Wind Blows." Time flies when you're having fun at 17,000 feet. We're now going on our third full day at high camp. We've determined that the forecast provided by the National Park Service, is reliable as a politician in an election year. Despite the gale force winds and frigid temperatures, the team remains positive. We pass the time eating junk food and sharing iPods as our batteries last. Zeb and Adam ventured to 19,000 feet yesterday to check snow stability and rock conditions after high winds and snowfall. The avalanche danger a concern. They've deemed the route safe, which now leaves the ball in the court of Mother Nature. 17,000 feet is a harsh waiting room, which increases the longing for family, friends, and the creature comforts of our homes. We invite you to wait with us lower 48 as we pass the time here at 17K. Stay tune for the next episode of, "As the Wind Blows." RMI Guide Mike Uchal

RMI Guide Mike Uchal with the First Episode of As the Wind Blows

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Nelson-

You are an inspiration! I cannot wait to hear about your big adventure. I’m really proud of you. Take good care and I’ll see you later this year.

Katie

Posted by: Katie Taylor on 7/6/2012 at 2:49 pm

Nelson,
We just found out what your doing this summer! We are following you everyday!
Be safe and strong! We are anxious for clear weather! I wrote to James today to tell him what your up to. He completed Air Assault and has checked into Camp Buckner!
He is looking forward to visiting you at college this year! We loved seeing all your adventure photos from last summer and are so impressed to find out what your doing this summer! Not many people in the world can even attempt what you are doing! Glad to know you and be part of your life!
Thinking of you,
The Kinsey Family

Posted by: Lori Kinsey on 7/6/2012 at 2:30 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Return to Talkeetna

July 4, 2012

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 358'

Happy 4th of July! Our Denali climbing team is celebrating the 4th in Talkeetna, AK! We were able to fly off of the glacier today amidst cloudy skies and low layers of fog. K2 Aviation did a great job of watching the weather and getting planes in to Basecamp when possible in order to facilitate our return to society. After hot showers and a little down time, we're looking forward to a festive celebration dinner at the Twister Creek Restaurant. Thanks for following our journey to the highest point in North America! It's been a great trip, and we're already looking forward to our next adventure together...what's yours? RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Enjoy a Lounge Day

July 4, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Happy Fourth!!! But actually our sixth day on the mountain and our first rest day. If it hadn't been proclaimed a rest day in advance, it would have become one anyway, but we'd have labeled it a storm day. Light, but continuous snow fell and we were seldom granted views of the sky, the sun or the mountains. Winds were aimless but persistent, making it a fine day for tenting. The team got up with the sun -or at least when the sun came out from behind the West Buttress at 9:15 AM and ducked behind clouds. Breakfast was held in the POSH and consisted of salmon, bagels, cream cheese and hot drinks. Conversation ranged from whales to polar bears and royal families. Cards were played, books were read and iPod movies were watched. Everyone seems to be acclimatizing well -which was the goal in resting here at 11,000 before the hoped for move to 14,200. While camp had seemed quite busy two days ago, it now seems quiet with just three other teams -all on similar schedules, give or take a day or two. Together we represent the end of the guided climbing season on Denali. Our team, although pleasantly diverse and international in composition is proud to be celebrating the fourth by climbing the America's highest peak. Although today we are climbing it from a predominantly seated position. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mark,enjoy following your climb. Stay safe, healthy and enjoy the experience. I admire you for your dedication and courage. Hope the weather clears for you - and best of luck to you and the entire climbing crew.

Posted by: Bob B on 7/5/2012 at 6:48 pm

The team seems to be making solid progress!!! We are watching/waiting for your updates to this blog. This is exciting for us mortals to witness!!!

Go Richard!!!

Posted by: jerrett on 7/5/2012 at 11:10 am

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Knoff and Team at 17,000’ Waiting

July 4, 2012

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Mike Uchal, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Greetings everyone! This is Mike Uchal from the June 19th Denali Expedition with Adam Knoff, Zeb Blais, and team. We are celebrating the 4th of July here at 17,000’ with fresh coffee and great group stories. We are being proactive at fighting an impossible tent-bound fever with short jaunts outside and hot meals in our group tent, when the weather allows. We’ll continue to play this now mental game as we continue to wait for our weather window for our summit attempt. Please stay tuned Lower 48 and happy 4th of July to all of our friends and family from our team here at 17000’. Good bye. RMI Guide Mike Uchal

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DG,
Enjoy your time on the mountain. I was in court today in Durham and all the Marshalls were asking about you. Speaking of court—that’s where I’ll be tommorrow, Monday and Tuesday. And I’m not even the litigator in the family. So, there are worse things than waiting on a weather window! Bet you wish you had a Kindle though!

Stay focused!
Stephanie

Posted by: Stephanie on 7/5/2012 at 4:49 pm

Hi Uncle mike! It’s grace and sam. Boudro says hi! (mom says its Boudreaux but i dont like like that spelling) he’s very crazy! We miss you soooooooo much. Guess what? Mom’s pregnant! Yay, we are so excited! Have fun!

Posted by: Grace and Sam on 7/5/2012 at 3:22 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Waiting at Basecamp

July 4, 2012

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

Our team is spending the night at Basecamp tonight, as the weather has been un-flyable all day today. We were fortunate enough to have perfect weather for our summit day, and this little weather glitch is now merely an annoyance. We are all looking forward to some simple amenities like hot showers, cold beer, real beds, running water, and the opportunity to talk with loved ones on the telephone. But we know that these will come shortly and we're already accustomed to being patient with the weather; the important thing to remember is that we had a safe and successful trip on Denali, and the weather worked out for us when we needed it to. This little waiting period in Basecamp is just a reminder that the mountain is still in charge and we need to play by its rules. We're optimistic that we will get to Talkeetna tomorrow and finish our expedition. Until then, we're all safe, comfortable, and happy. Hopefully our next dispatch will be from Talkeetna tomorrow. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Hi everybody,
Congratulations to a job well done. I’m very happy for all of you and look forward to hearing all about it when I see you in person. Until then enjoy the triumphant feeling because you all very much deserve it.
PS Sorry this message is a little late, I got the news a little late

Posted by: Jim on 7/6/2012 at 7:22 pm

Glad you are down safe and sound. Can’t wait to hear all the details. Good luck getting off tomorrow.
Missy

Posted by: missy prudden on 7/4/2012 at 8:21 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Cache Supplies and Head Back to 11K Camp

July 4, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

And we were getting so lucky with weather to this point... Ah well, we did our best to make use of a break in the snow and wind today. It started, here at 11,000 ft, with a snowy and socked-in morning. Many a team leader came out of his or her tent and then went right back inside, waiting for something better to work with. We were up at 7... but then gave it a pass until 8 and then we took a look at 9 and had breakfast. Things did start looking up by 10 and a few teams went for it. We liked the trend by 11 since we were seeing a lot of blue sky above (the uppermost part of the mountain was still in cloud) and only some indication of wind here and there. We were wearing our spikes and carrying our ice axes out of camp by 12:20. Our intention was to carry food and fuel up and around Windy Corner, cache it and then drop back down to 11 camp. The first hour went great. That was spent on "Motorcycle Hill" which was far steeper than any hill we'd tackled so far on the climb. From the top of Motorcycle, we could see winds starting to whip at the top of "Squirrel Hill" our goal for the next hour. We topped the hill in a fairly vicious and cold breeze and pushed on into the "Polo Fields" below the end of the West Buttress. From there, we had a good view of Windy Corner, which looked... you guessed it, windy. We decided not to push things too far, although the team was handling everything just fine to this point. We chose a cache site at about 12,850 ft and dug in. The only reason for burying it all is that ravens long ago developed a taste for climber food and a talent for ripping a cache to shreds. We couldn't see any ravens, but by this point in the day we were seeing a lot of blowing snow and swirling cloud again. With light packs, we made good time getting down the hills and back into 11k. We were home by 5:30 and dining in the shelter of our posh tent by 7:00 while the storm intensified. It isn't a terrible storm yet, just some wind and snow, but we hope it plays out overnight and leaves us in peace. Your messages to the web site were passed on to us and were thoroughly enjoyed by all the team. Thanks for the well wishes... keep those fingers crossed. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Daddy (Brian), I miss you and I want to go camping in that orange tent with you when you get home. (Direct quote from Connor)

Hope you and the team had some relaxing down time and that tomorrow brings good climbing weather. Stay safe, we love you!

Posted by: Connor Bulatao on 7/5/2012 at 6:12 am

Hello Brian! I hope that you and the team have a good climb, and I have added you and the team to the chruch prayer list for a safe trip. Love, Mom Bulatao

Posted by: Mom Bulatao on 7/4/2012 at 4:45 pm

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Beat Feet to Basecamp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Back Carry Supplies to 14K Camp

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Descend to 14K Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Hahn and Team Move to 14 Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team As the Wind Blows

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Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Return to Talkeetna

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Enjoy a Lounge Day

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Mt. McKinley Expedition: Knoff and Team at 17,000’ Waiting

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Waiting at Basecamp

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Cache Supplies and Head Back to 11K Camp

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