Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Return to Base Camp

June 12, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Blake Votilla, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

June 11, 2016 - 11:57 pm PT Hi all, we are at Base Camp. Just when you think it's over it's not till the fat lady sings. We packed our camp for what what we had hoped was the last time early this morning. The crew as always on this trip was ready to roll early and we arrived at base camp at 8:30 this morning with lite snow and cloudy skies. With all our will we wished the fog and snow away. Our wish was only met after the planes has powered down for the day. A long day of anticipation of burgers, beer, and more was lost so we enjoyed each others company and reflected on our journey in the Alaska range. With the weather on the lower glacier clearing a bit this evening we're hopeful to see all the colors of the outer world we departed from 16 days ago. Hoping to smell the summer in the low lands and eat like kings tomorrow. Blow some good weather vibes our way! Cheers, RMI Guide Tyler Jones & the team

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Congratulations Blake. Nice. Very Nice!

Posted by: Adelle on 6/13/2016 at 6:19 am

What a long, strange trip it’s been . . .

Posted by: Dad on 6/12/2016 at 1:09 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Rest and Train at 14,000’ Camp

June 12, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, Katrina Bloemsma, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 11, 2016 - 11:11 pm PT Today was a delight. We slept in a little, enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and hit up some training. The fixed lines loom a thousand feet above us and we prepared ourselves for them with a simulation above camp. We duplicated the transitions with ascenders until the team became certified ascender ninjas. We are ready to tackle them, I only hope they are ready for us. After our training we rested for a bit and then fortified camp. The team busted out walls and worked very well together on the parapets and ramparts that will secure our castle while we are crusading higher. Should the weather hold we will try to establish a cache for the upper upper mountain. We'll let you know how it all goes tomorrow. Sleep well friends. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Great progress and teamwork! We’re praying for you all!
Jay, Isabelle ran her first 5 miler and did well. She’s looking for her next race. She leaves for bethel today. Love you!
Make it a great day!

Posted by: Isty on 6/12/2016 at 9:23 am

Well said Jodi!!!! Good job team - hopefully you are all helping and supporting each other! Climbing is of course a group effort and it takes everybody to get everybody to the top safely - make sure to help each other along the way!!!!!!!

Posted by: Jesse Godzala on 6/12/2016 at 9:12 am

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Alaska Seminar: Elias & Team Tackle the Middle Troll

June 11, 2016

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

June 11, 2016 - 10:29 am PT WOW!!! What a day we had yesterday. Indescribable fun and challenge on "The Middle Troll", the main of the rock spires towering above the Pika. The weather held, just as it did for "The Throne" two days prior, we were able to sneak a super classic climb in.Splitter crack climbing 1200 feet straight above camp, while wearing only a base layer and seeing the ski-equipped planes land on the glacier beneath us, are only some of the surreal experiences the team had. Everyone faced an individual technical crux at some point on the route (the Middle Troll's South Face), but everyone was up for the task and the reward of the most radical view from the summit was attained. Today we're waking up, yet again, to another snow storm that is presumably going to limit our activity. We'll make the most of it. Hoping to fly out tomorrow as scheduled, our next post will be greeting you all from Talkeetna. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team.

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Back to Thick Air and Bacon

June 11, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

June 10, 2016 - 10:59 pm PT Waking up at 17K camp this morning was tough after yesterday's big day. We were happy though to be on the move again, back down the mountain to thicker air. Walking down the West Buttress was beautiful, and this time we were actually able to enjoy the knife ridge views. Taking in views is much easier walking down when you're only using half the physical effort as the way up. The mountain treated us with pleasant weather all the way to 11K Camp until we hit the storm layer, walked through some high winds and blowing snow and eventually below the storm to 7,800 camp. Now we're enjoying a cheese, bacon and bagel fry up celebration and looking forward to the final leg of our journey back to basecamp tomorrow! See you all soon and thanks for the support! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Still trying to keep a little vertical distance from reality.

Posted by: Dad on 6/12/2016 at 5:41 am

Wow descending almost 10,000 feet and through a snow storm layer—thats a long day! I hope you’re all holding up well on this last leg down to base camp!

Ongun I can’t wait to hear from you! sending you my hugs!
xoxo
Karina

Posted by: karina on 6/11/2016 at 9:29 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Moving On Up

June 11, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, Katrina Bloemsma, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches

Elevation: 14,200'

June 10, 2016 - 10:35 pm PT Waking to clear skies and minimal wind was a great way to start our move to 14K Camp. Of course when you walk amongst the clouds sometimes they come say hello. As we crossed the Polo Fields towards Windy Corner, weather set in and the team got their first taste of what Denali can dish out. We managed quite well and rallied through the pass to the calm on the other side, none the worse for wear, but with a few wider eyes to show for the effort. After an easy camp build (Thanks Jonesy!), we dined and toasted our friend Ryan for his Birthday! Katrina even no baked a cheesecake to celebrate the joyous day. That's the news from 14K, stay tuned for the next episode. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Jason, we’ve been watching your progress! We saw Isty and Isabelle today at the Women’s Run…can’t wait for you to see their fabulous dress-up pics!

Sophia and Susan—Trailside friends

Posted by: Susan on 6/11/2016 at 11:54 pm

Happy Birthday Ryan!!! :) (this is a great length to go to avoid another surprise party)

Posted by: Jessica on 6/11/2016 at 2:29 pm

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Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Moves Into 14K Camp

June 11, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,410'

June 10, 2016 - 10:11 pm PT We woke this morning to much improved weather. Some scattered clouds and a light wind but a huge improvement from yesterday. We had a quick breakfast and set about breaking camp. Just after the sun hit we were off and climbing. The team did a great job today, we had to battle a little around Windy Corner, it was a bit windy (go figure), but we were out of it soon and on to 14K Camp. After tents were up, everyone settled in to our new home above the clouds. Tomorrow we will do some training and fortify our camp with snow walls. Thanks for following along with us. The RMI Upper West Rib Team

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Sorry for the late comments. Garrick just forwarded the link. We are following you from afar. We will follow up on past reports. Congrats so far. Hope all finishes well.

Posted by: James and Sara on 6/12/2016 at 10:03 am

Good job team - hopefully you are all helping and supporting each other! Climbing is of course a group effort and it takes everybody to get everybody to the top safely - make sure to help each other along the way!!!!!!!

Posted by: Jesse Godzala on 6/12/2016 at 9:01 am

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Mt. Rainier: Teams Abort Summit Bid Due to Blowing Snow Conditions

June 11, 2016

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,000'

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climb teams, led by Mike Haugen and Mike King, turned at Ingraham Flats this morning after a rough night of snow and high winds. The guides reported an ominous cap over the mountain after checking in from Camp Muir. Shortly after 8:00 a.m., both teams began their descent to Paradise.

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Mt. Rainier: Teams Turned Around by New Snow and Cold Temps

June 10, 2016

Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 11,100'

The Four Day Summit Climb team led by RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Nick Hunt were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams turned back at Ingraham Flats this morning. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall called from Camp Muir shortly after 7 am, reporting 8-10” of fresh snow at the Ingraham Flats and very cold temps. Both Summit Climb teams have begun their descent from Camp Muir to Paradise.

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Alaska Seminar: Elias and Team Learn & Review Rope Skills

June 10, 2016

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

June 10, 2016 - 12:12 am PT And back to the tents... Rain kept us at camp today, with the exception of a few hours in the afternoon. We spent that time learning and reviewing more rope skills, and talking about staying motivated for a climb tomorrow. Our hopes are on the South face of the Middle Troll, the main formation that reigns over the Pika glacier. Stay tuned. RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Return to High Camp after Summit Bid

June 10, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Blake Votilla, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

June 9, 2016 - 10:38 pm PT Hello!!! We are all safe and sound back at our high camp after a long summit push. This morning we got out of the tents at the suns first rays to clear but windy weather. We were a bit nervous as the wind extended into the late morning but once we were tied in to the ropes around 10:30 the sun started to grace the slopes of Denali Pass and the wind let up a bit. We climbed smoothly up to the pass.Today was a chilly one, filled with managing our feet, hands, and faces against the pesky cold. Our bodies were spent as we finished Pig Hill and to our surprise the summit ridge was rather warm and welcoming. We took photos, embraced and congratulated each other on a strong effort. The crew made great time on the way down and we are grubbing on soup and ramen, looking forward to descending to more oxygen rich air. Time for a bit of rest for this tuckered out crew! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Congrats team
Very exciting and very thankful to hear you are heading down safe. Please be careful on your way down and cannot wait to hear the stories upon Dan and Eric’s return.
Thanks to the RMI guides for keeping our loved ones safe.
Karen

Posted by: karen Stewart on 6/11/2016 at 6:26 am

Congrats all! Now hurry down Mr. President Oxygen because I’m trying to plan your next expedition :-)

Posted by: First Lady Oxygen on 6/10/2016 at 8:56 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Return to Base Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Rest and Train at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Alaska Seminar: Elias & Team Tackle the Middle Troll

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Back to Thick Air and Bacon

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Moving On Up

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Moves Into 14K Camp

Mt. Rainier: Teams Abort Summit Bid Due to Blowing Snow Conditions

Mt. Rainier: Teams Turned Around by New Snow and Cold Temps

Alaska Seminar: Elias and Team Learn & Review Rope Skills

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Return to High Camp after Summit Bid

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