Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Thursday, May 28th 3:49 am PDT
After so many posts about waiting for weather, this one is different. We headed for the fixed lines this morning under clear, sunny skies. The day turned into the nicest that Robby, Josh, or I have ever had on the
West Buttress--warm and without a breathe of wind. Because the weather was so nice, the climbing conditions so perfect, and the group climbing so well, we decided to push all of the way to 17 Camp and leave our cache there. The climbing on the Buttress is some of the best of the entire route, and everyone thoroughly enjoyed the huge views, interesting climbing, and the accomplishment of getting it done. It was a big day, just under 10 hours round trip, so everyone is knackered but elated, and we will more than likely sleep in and take a rest day tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team
On The Map
May 28, 2015 - 9:39 am PT
In the big picture breakdown of
Mt. McKinley's climbing days, it would be said that historically the move day from 11,000 foot camp to 14,000 foot camp would prove to be one of the most difficult. Today I would say that we beat the odds. We broke camp at 7 am this morning in quick time and after a delicious breakfast of instant oatmeal and instant coffee we were ready to tackle the day's first objective. Directly out of 11 camp, a swell steep uphill called Motorcycle Hill greets you. Next is Squirrel Hill and after that Windy Corner. Now I'm not sure how we have gotten in such good graces with the often grumpy weather gods but today those gods, sitting around their big weather God dinner table, decide today should be the nicest day all month. With clear skies, no wind and perfect walking temps we all zipped right through those hills and corners to a breathtaking camp here at 14,000 feet. We were in no rush because the day was so amazing so we created our own camp out of scratch and are all feeling rewarded and strong. Big move days rarely go this smooth. We could not feel more psyched for what's to come.
I am thinking about you Liam. I can't wait to see you.
Wishing all of our family and friends big hugs.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
On The Map
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by
RMI Guides Brent Okita and Garrett Stevens reached Camp Muir on Monday with their team. This week has been beautiful and the team has spent their time on the mountain honing their mountaineering techniques. This morning the team left Camp Muir en route to the summit. They arrived around 6:30 am PT and were able to enjoy the blue skies and sunshine from the top. The team will return to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain and some additional training. Tomorrow after noon they will return to Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
May 27, 2015 - 10:38 pm PT
We woke early this morning, ate, took down our tents and packed our backpacks. We even had our harnesses on. The weather was perfect. But after checking multiple weather resources, our decision was clear. Weather models were in agreement, forecasting gale force winds in excess of 65mph tomorrow at high camp. It would not have been prudent to risk going up high today and deal with potential tent-crushing winds tomorrow. So we unpacked and set up our tents anew.
Throughout the emotional swings of this morning, our team has remained resolute. Safety is our number one priority up here in the mountains, and we will try for our summit push after tomorrow's winds abate. In fact, the forecast looks quite good for Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. We're optimistic that we'll have good shot to move up to high camp on Friday.
In the mean time today, we're enjoying the best weather day of our whole trip. It's sunny, calm, and warm
here at 14,200'.
Pete Van Deventer's expedition is up high on the ridge today, caching supplies for their stint at high camp (which will likely coincide with ours). Adam Knoff's expedition rolled into camp today also, and they're busy setting up their camp. It's good to see a lot of friendly RMI climber faces here at camp.
We'll keep you posted any news from our end.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
May 26, 2015 - 11:13 pm PT
We woke to a swirling cloud cap above, that left little doubt that it was unpleasant in the
West Buttress. We decided to wait the day yet again and see what tomorrow brings. We did take advantage of a break in the clouds to walk to the "Edge of the World', where Genet Basin drops almost 7,000 feet to the Northeast fork of the Kahiltna. The views from here are unsurpassed and everyone took turns being belayed out to the edge to snap photos. We'll give another shot at caching on the buttress tomorrow. We'll let you know how it goes.
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young, Josh Maggard, and team
On The Map
May 26, 2015 - 10:33 pm PT
We woke early again today, hoping for good weather to move up to high camp. But it was not to be. A large lenticular cloud, indicating strong winds, had formed over the top of
Denali, extending down beyond high camp. Winds were howling up high until a little afternoon today, when the cloud dissipated for a couple hours and then reformed in the afternoon. The winds were too strong for us to safely move camp to 17,200', so we rested again at 14,200'.
We took advantage of clear skies on the lower mountain to take a walk out to the "Edge of the World", a point south of our camp that looks down sheer cliffs about 5,000' down the the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The views from the Edge are surreal, and the scale is nearly incomprehensible.
We're psyched to see what the weather brings tomorrow, and we're ready to take advantage of good weather when it presents itself. We'll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and team
On The Map
May 26, 2015 - 7:24 pm PT
I gave the team a general idea of when we might start breakfast this morning at dinner last night. I bet we get hot water started at around 8, then start pancakes and coffee shortly after that I said. I didn't even open my eyes until almost nine. While in the middle of working your way up this mountain day after day none of us realized how much we could use a rest. Today it became clear. We sat in the cook tent making fresh Pete's coffee and watching Andy flip flap jacks until almost noon. Then we took naps and soaked up the sun we haven't really seen clearly this entire trip. Now we are cooking quesadillas and packing up for our potential move to
14 Camp tomorrow. Everyone is happy to be caching dirty underwear, smelly socks and unneeded stuff for the upper mountain. It has been a beautiful rest day here at 11 Camp but after getting a great view of the upper mountain yesterday, the team feels super psyched to push this climb higher and see what unfolds.
Check in tomorrow for the outcome of our hopeful move.
Team Knoff saying goodnight.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
On The Map
May 26, 2015 - 10:08 am PT
Today is Memorial Day. With the simplicity of life on this mountain taking charge, many of us don't even know what day it is. The process of get up, get dressed in close quarters, make your way to the cook tent dug into the side of the mountain, eat breakfast, pack you bag and climb, come back to the tents, eat dinner and go to bed is a process where days don't matter. So if birthdays are missed, anniversaries are forgotten about, we are not to blame. Despite having digital doohickeys with us, looking at calendars and keeping track of days becomes arbitrary. Today as it turns out wasn't Memorial Day up here, it was
Windy Corner day. This legendary gateway to the upper mountain is famous for its heinous wind, scary rock fall and tricky crevasses. We are happy to report our carry around the corner to 13,500 feet went as smooth as we could have asked for. Again we lucked out with weather because as I wrote earlier our early morning wake up calls got us going into clear skies but as soon as we arrived back in camp seven hours later it was snowing as hard as it has all trip. There is much to be said for walking into a camp that is waiting for you. We will rest tomorrow and eat pancakes and drink fresh coffee until nap time. We can't wait.
Hello to Mrs. Vradenburg's class at Lamotte School I hope Liam is behaving. Stay tuned.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
On The Map
May 26, 2015 - 12:17 am PT
Just like Johnny Cash said, "that train keeps a rollin'." The winds were down, a cloud of sparkling ice crystals hung around, reflecting the sunlight and solar baking everything, and we returned to a dead calm Windy Corner to retrieve our cash. We are one step closer now with all of our food up here with us. The next step is to take a run at the fixed lines and cache some food in the
West Buttress. To prepare, we spent the afternoon practicing with our ascenders and getting prepped for that potential carry tomorrow. Mac and cheese with bacon for dinner to fuel us tomorrow. We'll hope to wake up with a green light to head up. For now, good night!
RMI Guides Pete, Robby, Josh, and team
On The Map
May 25, 2015 - 7:16 pm PT
Hello Everyone!
This morning, hopeful to move to high camp, we awoke early and had breakfast and coffee in the chilly pre-solar hours, watching through dissipating clouds, as the wind whipped along the top of the
West Buttress leaving streaks of sublimated snow in its wake.
And so resumed another day of reading, sport eating, and exploring the tangled and winding pathways between the walls of surrounding camps.
We are all crossing our fingers today is our final rest and acclimatization day here at fabulous 14 camp. We are looking forward to getting some exercise of the physical kind...we have been taxing the mental reserves nightly by developing a now customary team activity of Riddles over Dinner, made possible by the greatest boredom banishing App ever, Brain Twister by Will Shortz. Tonight we'll be starting with puzzle number 47 if you'd like to follow along...but trust us, they're exponentially harder at 14,200'!
We are packed, prepped, and looking forward to making our move tomorrow morning, if the weather cooperates.
Hopefully instead of practicing patience and unscrambling anagrams, we'll be establishing camp at 17,200' and enjoying the ever impressive views from higher on the mountain.
Thanks for following along!
RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall and the team
On The Map
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Matt thanks to you and your team for all the updates. This has been so exciting to follow you and your team Pete on your blog. This is the day you all have been waiting for the perfect weather to climb to the top. Congrats and take lots of pictures to share with us all. We are all praying for your perfect climb. Rest and drink lots of water. Be safe and we love. I’m so proud of you.
Auntie Marilyn
Posted by: marilyn collura on 5/29/2015 at 4:47 pm
Pete thanks for the updates, fun to follow along. Brian, following along, hope to see a post that you made Camp 17 in the next day or so, best of luck to the whole team!.
Posted by: Oscar Berke on 5/29/2015 at 9:32 am
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