Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Seth here. We're all checked in for our flights to St. Petersburg. Today is our transfer day so there's not much to report. Everyone met up for coffee in the morning and the group had a down day while Pete and I cleaned and dried the tents and other gear. We'll be taking a red-eye to St. Pete's tonight and then we'll start touring the city tomorrow afternoon. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

Mt. Rainier: September 4, 2013

September 4, 2013

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,300'

RMI Guide Billy Nugent led the Four Day Summit Climb to the top of Disappointment Cleaver this morning before encountering strong winds, low visibility, and precipitation. The teams have safely returned to Camp Muir and are getting ready to descend back to Paradise. We are excited to welcome the teams back in Ashford early this afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

We are so proud of you, Doug. All your hard work and training has paid off. Can’t wait to hear all about your adventure! Mom and Dad Hicks

Posted by: Byron and Nancy on 9/5/2013 at 6:54 am

Way to go Jack and Beth!!! Sorry to hear you couldn’t make it all the way to the top, but way to get to 12,300’!!! Can’t wait to hear more about it next week!

James Rogers

Posted by: James Rogers on 9/4/2013 at 5:23 pm

Mt. Shuksan: Schellens and Team Enjoy Better Than Expected Weather

September 3, 2013

Posted by: Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

September 3, 2013 AM Hi all! Kirk, Harry, and I had a very nice hike into the low bivy site on Mt. Shuksan yesterday; partly cloudy, but completely dry. Last night we had a few light showers and then it opened up on us this morning around 8 - 9 a.m. It has given us a little reprieve but is now starting to rain again. We're relaxing in tents and hoping for another break this afternoon so we can get some training in. Everyone is in good spirits despite the weather and some wet boots from this mornings rain storm. Thanks for checking in! September 3, 2013 PM Our hopes came true! The weather broke this afternoon and we were able to get outside and get some training in. We're taking a break right now but will head back out and take advantage of the dry weather and train some more. The forecasts predicts decent weather for tomorrow so we may try to climb. I'll keep you posted on our that goes. We'll check in again tomorrow! RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Mt. Elbrus: North Side Teams Returns to Kislovodsk

September 3, 2013

Checking in from Kisklovodsk! We managed to get out of Mt. Elbrus Base Camp today even though the roads were a bit slippery. The weather had a bit more in store for us as we all awoke to thunder and rain early this morning. After breakfast we waited out the soggy conditions and with just a bit of delay we loaded the 4x4's and made the trip back to town. After a well deserved shower we met up for a great dinner. The next stop for us is St. Petersburg which should be great! RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

Mt. Rainier: September 3rd - Teams Turned Around at 12, 300’

September 3, 2013

Posted by: Brent Okita, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,300'

The Four Day Summit Climbs August 31 - 3 September were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. RMI Guides Brent Okita & Zeb Blais reported poor visibility and increased winds and precipitation as the teams reached the top of Disappointment Cleaver (12,300'). The teams made the decision to turn around at that point and return to Camp Muir. The teams were able to relax at Camp Muir before starting their descent to Paradise. We look forward to meeting the groups at Rainier BaseCamp later this morning.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Turn around point very appropriate…Disappointment Ridge!
I know it is disappointing to not be able to attain your ultimate goal, but don’t discount the level of accomplishment you did achieve!
Congratulations to the team for all your dedication to the endeavor, and most especially to you Doug. You have pursued your dream and made us all exceedingly proud. Luv U and anxious to see you and hear all about it!
Mom Griz

Posted by: Nancy Crane on 9/5/2013 at 6:57 am

Dear Dan
Wow! What an adventure. You, the elements, and the mountain. Ain’t she magnificent? Even in the dark. Life will never be the same. Congratulations!to both of you!!
Love,
Kay

Posted by: Kay on 9/3/2013 at 5:44 pm

Mt. Elbrus: Waterfall & Team Safe and Sound at Basecamp

September 2, 2013

Elevation: 8,300'

Hi, this is Seth. We're all back down at basecamp. It was a bummer to walk down today without the summit but that's the way it goes sometimes. Everyone was in good spirits even though we didn't top out. The weather has just not cooperated with us for a summit bid. We were never able to reach high camp and that forced us to try to go for the top from Camp 1. Even then the winds pushed us back after just a few hours. Like I said, that's the way it goes sometimes. The important thing is that we've all descended safe and sound. We have some great stories that is for sure. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Team -

BUMMER !!

I just returned from Burning Man where we battle wind and dust instead of wind and snow. I’m sorry to hear that Elbrus has been throwing up roadblocks for you guys. Sounds totally different than when I was there in July. St. Petersburg is a fabulous city. You’ll all love it.

Seth - Looking forward to seeing you and Dave down at Vinson in 3 months.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 9/3/2013 at 12:31 pm

James and team

I hope you have a wonderful time in St. P!

I am rEally looking forward to hearing your stories, learning more about the partcular challenges you faced and safely addressed, and hearing about your next mega-goal and adventure. Your couageous acts and actvities are very inspiring and motivational to me!!!

Travel safely,

Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 9/3/2013 at 4:03 am

Mt. Rainier: September 2nd

September 2, 2013

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Leon Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,700'

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Leon Davis were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams returned to Camp Muir at 7:45 am from their high point of 12,700'. While at Camp Muir the teams will gear up for their descent to Paradise; we look forward to greeting them when they arrive back at Rainier Basecamp later today.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mom and Aunt Kathy congratulations on a wonderful adventure! You worked so hard and I can’t wait to hear about the beautiful climb.

Posted by: Camilla on 9/3/2013 at 3:56 pm

Mom and Aunt Kathy—
Congrats!!! So proud of you both. Sorry the weather didn’t collaborate but I’m sure it was beautiful and so fun!

Posted by: katie on 9/3/2013 at 9:08 am

Mt. Elbrus: Northside Team Tries for the Summit

September 1, 2013

Elevation: 12,300'

Hey there, this is Seth checking in from Camp 1 on the northside of Mount Elbrus. We tried to go to the summit tonight, last night, but that was not to be for us. The wind is out of control, you might be able to here my tent flapping in the breeze. Although calm when we woke up, the snow had stopped about a foot to two feet, where it had drifted in. Pete Van Deventer and I broke trail for a few thousand feet towards the summit. The winds just steadily grew and grew as we climbed. And just became to where we couldn't really see too far in front of our faces anymore due to ground blizzard conditions and decided it just wasn't safe. The winds have been decreasing on our descent and back down here at high camp, we are all hunkered in all safe and sound. Tomorrow brings a new day and we'll check in then. Ciao. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checks in after the Mt. Elbrus summit attempt.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

James and team, based on your blog, time is running out for your climb to the summit. Trust that you will follow team’s prudent decision putting your safety a top priority. Hanging in there together.

Posted by: Soonja Choo on 9/2/2013 at 7:55 am

James and team

I suspect you are disappointed not being able to achieve a very important part of your trek. It’s hard to be in great shape, pumped-up and ready to reach a summit.

From reading your blog it doesn’t sound like your weather and conditions allowed you to safely reach the top of Mount Elbrus at this time. Many of us who choose to climb with RMI appreciate, admire and want guides and leadership that are able and willing to always put our safety first. I am sure I am not alone in thanking Seth and Pete for using such sound judgement. You are all so important to us.

Hang in there, support one another, focus on descending safely, and really try to enjoy the history, architecture and other beautiful aspects of St. P.

Fred K

Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 9/2/2013 at 6:57 am

Mt. Shuksan: Mike Walter’s Team Summit Via Fisher Chimneys!

September 1, 2013

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: 9,127'

Jeff and I had a great day yesterday. We climbed from Lake Ann up through the Fisher Chimneys and established camp at the edge of the Upper Curtis. After a nice long lunch, we packed our light summit packs and headed out. We reached the summit via the Southeast ridge at about 4:50pm, and had it all to ourselves. We arrived back at camp at around 7:25 last night. Today we'll likely do some ice climbing this morning before packing up camp and heading back down through the Chimneys. But first, it's coffee time! RMI Guide Mike Walter

Mt. Elbrus: Waterfall & Team One Last Shot for the Summit

September 1, 2013

Elevation: 12,300'

It's just another day in the tents here on Mt. Elbrus. We've been getting snow since about 3am last night. Fortunately we have not had much wind so that has kept our sanity mostly intact. We are nearing the end of our trip now. With only a couple more days left before we need to be back in basecamp, we're trying to come up with a plan that could still put us on top without risking us missing our flights to St. Petersburg. What we're thinking of right now is a single push from Camp 1 to the summit and back tonight. That will allow us to descend to basecamp the following day. Barring that we may have to return home safe and sound but without the summit. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Seth: A comment you taught me could be appropriate at this time: the three P’s, perserverance, patience and a positive attitude along with a bit of luck will get you there! Best on a safe climb!

Posted by: phil usher on 9/1/2013 at 6:33 pm

Choo and team,

Bit bummed to read about the weather stalling things but I’m sure you’re still making the most of it! Only a success if you make it up…and back down…so be safe!!! Fingers crossed and sending wishes/thoughts/prayers for it to open up and give you a chance if it is right!!!

Pulling for ya! Enjoy and have fun!

Posted by: Lauren on 9/1/2013 at 4:17 pm